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December 2015

Santa Claus

Santa1.jpg

So is he a "Santa Claus" or is he a "Father Christmas"? I never thought much about this until my friend Louise (an American) suggested there was a difference; in the ensuing discussion, it seems my guess did not gel with her view. I think she told me that Father Christmas is the traditional old chap and that Santa Claus is one in red with the white trim.
Anyway - which ever he is, I'm sure he'll make a nice little seasonal knitted toy.
This example knitted by my friend Jennie, and if you live around Ewell in Surrey in the UK you can find her work for sale at local craft fares .

Instructions.

Note that: the body is knitted with the yarn doubled (2 strands held together), and the clothes are single.

Body

With white yarn (W) and 3mm needles and yarn used double, cast on 20 stitches and work 3½ inches in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl).

Shape shoulders by casting Off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [10 sts].
Work 2 rows straight for neck.

Now increase 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 18 stitches.

Work 14 rows straight for back of head.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 8 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Make another piece the same using but changing to pink (C) for the neck and face.

Join the two halves together and stuff firmly.

Arms (Make 2)

With yarn C, cast on 14 stitches, and work 1 inch in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row. Break off C.

Join in W, and continue until work measures 2½ inches.
Cast off.

Fold in half lengthways and join seam, leaving top open for stuffing. Stuff and sew to body.

Legs (Make 2)

With yarn B, cast on 24 stitches, and work 1 inch in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

Next row: k8, cast off 8, k8 [16 sts]

Work across these 16 stitches for 1 inch, leaving 8 cast-off stitches for toe of boot. Break off B.

Join in yarn W, and continue straight until work measures 3½ in.
Cast off.
Fold in half lengthways and join seams, leaving top open for stuffing. Stuff and sew to body.

Coat (Fronts)

For the left front: with yarn W, cast on 16 stitches, and knit 4 rows. Break off W.

Continue in red (R) and white (W) thus:
1st row: k14 R, k2 W.
2nd row: k2 W, p14 R.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 2½ inches, ending with 2nd row.

Cast on 10 stitches at the beginning of the next row for the sleeve, then work 1 inch straight on these 26 stitches, ending at the neck edge.
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row and slip the remaining 19 stitches on a length of wool or stitch holder.

Work the right front to correspond, reversing all shaping.

Coat (Back)

With yarn R, p19 stitches from the from right front, cast on 10 stitches, then p19 from left front.

Continue in stocking stitch for l inch

Cast off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then work 2½ inches, finishing with 4 rows of garter stitch in white (W).

Join side and sleeve seams of coat and fit on body, then join the front edges in white from neck to waist.

Trousers (Make 2)

With yarn W, cast on 30 stitches and k4 rows. Break off W.

Join in yarn R, and work in stocking stitch until piece measures 2½ inches, then increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate
row until there are 36 stitches.

Continue straight until work measures 5 inches from the start.
Cast Off.

Join seams and fit on body.

Attach garments to body stitching round neck, wrists, waist of trousers and top of boots.

Hood

With yarn W, cast on 36 stitches, and knit 4 rows.
Break off W.

Join in R, and work straight in stocking stitch until piece measures 3½ inches. Then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 4 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Fold in half lengthways and join seam from point to start of shaping.
Fit hood on the head and catch white border all round face; then stitch
the rest of the hood round the neck.

Embroider features

Taking photo as a guide use blue for eyes and black for eyebrows and nose. Make moustache and beard with loops of white, sewing in position.

Belt

With yarn B, cast on 4 stitches, and work 5 inches in garter stitch, (every row knit). Cast Off.
Sew belt in position around the waist.

Sack (not shown in photo)

With white (or any colour of your choosing), cast on 34 stitches and work 3 inches in stocking stitch. Cast off.
Fold in half, then join side and base.

With double yarn (or make a 2-ply twisted rope) gather up sack and sling round shoulder and under arm.

Materials

4ply fingering yarn:
2 oz red (R), 1 oz white (W), and small amounts of pink (C) and black (B); scrap of blue for eyes.

One pair 3mm
knitting needles.

Stuffing.

Tension

No tension is stated (as it's a toy so only consistency matters) but a classic 4ply knits to a tension of 22 sts x 28 rows to 10 centimetres, (4 inches).

Using the yarn double will produce more like a worsted tension of about 20 sts to 4 inches. However note that this pattern knits the doubled yarn on relatively fine needles to produce a dense fabric so the tension may come out tighter than that.

Size matters

Height 10 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

garter stitch: every row knit

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn specified was Patons Purple Heather 4ply. Depending on what era you purchased it in, it could be pure wool or a blend.

Acrylic yarns tend to have a wide colour range, robust qualities, and are reasonably priced, thus can be very suitable for hard working toys.

Robin make a Premium Acrylic available in 25g balls which can be useful for toys.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2015

Midi Cardigan

MidiCardigan2.jpg

The trend for the winter is layers of knitwear, including long sleeveless cardigans, worn over knitted dresses, (which I would personally find too warm in this era of stifling central heating in most public spaces). However, there are other ways to wear it especially "between seasons" - and this is a nice example from the seventies, (but not too dissimilar to those around at the moment).

I have seen examples where front and back are split up the sides, which would give it a modern edge; this design is knitted "all in one" up to the armholes but if you are a more experienced knitter you could work out how to make fronts and backs separate up to about mid thigh.

Cardigan Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The back and fronts are worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.
If you want to separate the backs and fronts up to mid thigh, you can do this and knit the first section of the pattern on each piece up to the start of the side shaping. If you do this, you might keep 2 or 3 edge stitches at the sides in garter or moss stitch until they are joined.
Join the pieces on the first "shape sides" row.
Note that you need to ensure the yarn you are using has a suitable drape for this style ie the knitted fabric is not too firm, and you will have to work out how to place the pattern stitches to keep continuity, when you join them.

Pocket linings

With No 8 needles, cast on 34 stitches and work 5½ inches in stocking stitch, ending with a knit row.

Next row: p2, m1p, (p6, m1p) 5 times, p2. [40 sts]

Leave stitches on a spare needle and make second pocket lining the same.

Back and Fronts

With No 10 needles, cast on 290 (308 : 326 : 344) stitches and work 7 rows k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 8 needles.
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k 10, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Work in pattern as follows:
1st row (right side facing): pl, * (Tw2L, pl) twice, p6, (p1,Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k8, pl, k2, p1, k1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, pl) twice, p4, (p1, Tw2R) twice; p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1, * (k2, p1) twice, k6, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, kl.
5th row: p1, * p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1,* k1, (k2, p1) twice, k4, (p1, k2) twice, k1 : repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
7th row: pl, * p3, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p. l, Tw2R) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p.l.
8th row: k1, * k2, (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: p1,* p3, (p1, Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R., p1) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
10th row: k1, * k3, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
11th row:p1, * p. 3, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p3; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 10th.
13th row: p1, * p3, (p1, Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: as 8th.
15th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 6th.
17th row: p1,* p1, (p1, Tw2R) twice, p4, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
18th row: as 4th.
19th row: p1,* (p1, Tw2R) twice, p6, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from last stitch, p1.
20th row: as 2nd.
21st row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1) twice, p6, (p1, Tw2L) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
22nd row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k10, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
23rd row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p10, k1, p2, k1,repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
24th row: as 22nd.

Repeat the last 24 rows twice more, then rows 1 to 22 inclusive again.

[Editor's note: If you have knitted fronts and back separate to this point, join them here - on the last or the following row.]

Shape sides as follows:

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2 tog, p6, p2tog, k1,p. 2, k1 ; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1. [258 (274 : 290 : 306) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2, p1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Continue in pattern as follows:

1st row: p1, * (Tw2L, p1) twice, p4, (p1,Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1, k 1: repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1,* (k2, p1) twice, k4, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
5th row: p1,* p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1,* k1, (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice, k1 ; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
7th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R, pl) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
8th row: k1, * k2, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k2; repeat from * to last last stitch, k1.
9th row: p1,* p2, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, pl.
10th row: as 8th.
11th row: p1, * p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 6th.
13th row: p1, * p1, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: as 4th.
15th row: p1, * (p1, Tw2R) twice, p4, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 2nd.
17th row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1 ) twice, p4, (p1 Tw2L) twice; repeat
from * to last stitch, p1.
18th row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
19th row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p8, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
20th row: as 18th.

Repeat the last 20 rows once more, then rows 1 to 12 inclusive again.

Place pocket linings as follows:

Next row: pattern 17, * slip next 40 stitches on a stitch-holder, and in place of these, pattern across 40 stitches of one pocket lining *, pattern to last 57 stitches, repeat from * to *, pattern last 17 stitches.

Work a further 7 rows straight in pattern, then work rows 1 to 18 inclusive again.

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2tog, p4, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [226 (240 : 254 : 268) sts]
Next row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

**
Continue in pattern as follows:
1st row: p1, * (Tw2L, p1) twice, p2, (p1, Tw2R) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: p1, * p1, (Tw2L, p1) twice, (p1,Tw2R) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
4th row: k1,* (k2, p1) twice, k2, (p1, k2) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
5th row: p1, * p1, (p1,Tw2L) twice, (Tw2R, p1) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, p1.
6th row: k1, * k1, (k2, p1) twice, (p1, k2) twice, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
7th row: p1, * p1, (p2, k1) twice, (k1, p2) twice, p1; repeat from * to last last stitch, pl.
8th row: as 6th.
9th row: pl, * p1, (p1,Tw2R) twice, (Tw2L, p1) twice, p1 ; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
10th row: as 4th.
11th row: p1, * (p1, Tw2R) twice, p2, (Tw2L, p1) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
12th row: as 2nd.
13th row: p1, * (Tw2R, p1) twice, p2, (p1, Tw2L) twice; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
14th row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
15th row: p1,* k1, p2, k1, p6, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
16th row: as 14th.
**

Repeat the last 16 rows once more, then rows 1 to 14 inclusive again.

Next row: as 15th.
Next row: as 14th.

The last 2 rows form bodice pattern.

Repeat them until work measures 35 inches at centre, ending with right side facing.

Shape neck and at the same time divide for fronts as follows:

Next row: cast off 7, pattern 49 (52 : 56 : 59), turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these stitches for RIGHT FRONT, shaping armhole and neck as follows:
Next row: cast off 8, pattern to end.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 29 (32 : 32 : 35) stitches remain, then at each end of next and every alternate row until, 19 (22 : 22 : 25) stitches remain.

Now keep neck edge straight and continue decreasing at armhole edge on following 1 (3 : 2 : 4) alternate rows. [18 (19 : 20 : 21) sts]

Work straight until front measures 43 (43½ : 43½ : 44) inches at centre, ending with wrong side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 6 (7 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6 (6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches; cast off 8, pattern 106 (114 : 120 : 128), turn, and leave remaining stitches on a
spare needle.
Continue on these stitches for BACK, shaping armholes by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row, until 86 (94 : 96 : 104) stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row, until 74 (78 : 82 : 86) stitches remain.

Work straight until back matches front at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulders by casting off 6 (7 : 6 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 6 (6 : 7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

Leave remaining 38 (40 : 42 : 44) stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches for LEFT FRONT, cast off 8, pattern to end.

Next row: cast off 7, pattern to end.
Finish to correspond with right front, reversing shapings.

Front Borders:

Left: With No 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches.
1st row (right side facing): k2, (p1, k 1) 4 times, k1.
2nd row: k1, (p1, k 1) 5 times.
Repeat the last 2 rows until strip fits up left front to start of neck shaping when slightly stretched, ending with 2nd row.

Leave stitches on a safety-pin at top and sew border neatly in position.

Right: Work to correspond with left border with the addition of 12 buttonholes. 1st to come 7½ inches above lower edge, and 12th to come 2¼ inches below start of neck shaping, with the remainder
spaced evenly between. First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end; on the next row, cast on 3 stitches over those cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts very lightly on wrong side, omitting ribbing and taking care not to over-press and spoil the pattern.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing and No 10 needles, pick up and knit 116 (128 : 128 : 140) stitches round each armhole and work 7 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join shoulder seams.

Neck Border: With right side facing and No10 needles, work as follows:
Rib 11 border stitches , pick up and knit 52 (56 : 56 : 60) stitches up right side of neck, knit 38 (40 : 42 : 44) from back decreasing 1 stitch in centre, pick up and knit 52 (56 : 56 : 60) down left side, rib 11 from left border. [163 (173 : 175 : 185) sts]

Work 1 row k1/p1 rib as for border. Make 13th buttonhole in next 2 rows as before, then work a further 4 rows in rib.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Pocket Tops:

With right side facing and No 10 needles, knit across each set of 40 pocket stitches, decreasing 1 stitch in centre. [39 sts]
Work 6 rows k1/p1 rib as for border.
Cast off in rib.
Catch down sides of pocket tops neatly to main work, then sew linings lightly in position on wrong side.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

16 (17 : 19 : 20) 1oz balls in Tweed Grey double knitting yarn.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

13 buttons.

Tension

The pattern is based on a tension of 22sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in four sizes to fit chest: 32 (34 : 36 : 38) inches.
Length from top of shoulders 43 (43½ : 43½ : 44) inches.

Abbreviations

m1p: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and purl into back of it.

Tw2L: purl into back of 2nd stitch on left needle, then knit into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

Tw2R: knit into front of 2nd stitch on left needle, then purl into front of 1st stitch and slip both stitches off needle together.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Fiona, which appeared in both 1oz and later 50g balls.It was a "Shetland" DK equivalent with a soft slight fluffy texture. It is about 50-50 wool and acrylic making it softer than pure Shetland, and also making for a good yardage - about 104 yards per 50g.
Note that this pattern calls for 1oz balls (1oz is about 28g).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Hat Instructions.

With No 10 needles, cast on 104 stitches, and work 6 rows k1/p1 rib.
Next row: rib 1, m1p, * rib 2, m1p; repeat from * to last stitch, rib 1. [156 sts]

Change to No 8 needles.
1st row:
p1, * k1, p2, k1, p6, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k2, p1, k6, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Work 16 rows in pattern as for main part from ** to ** as given in cardigan instructions to make one diamond pattern panel (see photo).
Then repeat 1st and 2nd rows above, 7 times.

Shape crown as follows:
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2, p2tog, p2, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [145 sts]

Keeping continuity of pattern, work 1 row straight.

Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, p2, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch,
p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, k1, p2, k1; repeat from last stitch, p1.
Work 1 .row straight. [123 sts]
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p1, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p2, k1, p2tog, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight. [101 sts]
Next row: p1, * k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Work 1 row straight.
Next row: p1, * k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
[79 sts]
Work 1 row straight.

Change to stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and continue shaping as follows:

Next row: k3, k2tog, * k5, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4 : 68 stitches Next row: purl.
Next row: k3, k2tog , * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3 stitches , k3.
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, k2tog,* k3, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3. [46 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, * k2tog, k2; repeat from * to end. [35 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: k2, * k2tog, k1; repeat from to end. [24 sts]
Next row: purl.
Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [12 sts]

Break yarn. Thread through remaining stitches, draw up tightly and fasten off.

Press work very lightly on wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join centre back seam.
Press seam.

Materials

2 x 1 oz balls of double knitting yarn.

Pair each Nos 8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

The pattern is based on a tension of 22sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size "to fit an average head".

Abbreviations

As given for cardigan above.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2015

Cape Swings into Fashion

LinedCape.jpg

This is an earlier version of a knitted cape and includes a (knitted) lining - so potentially nice and warm. I thought it was a good option to publish alongside the seventies version.
The lining is knitted but if you did not want to commit to all that knitting I think it might be simple enough to cut out the shapes in fabric to create the lining - as long as you choose a material that's not too stiff or thick, although the cape as shown seems to be styled with quite a firm structure.
Of course you could easily knit the cape in a plain stitch instead of the pattern illustrated.

Instructions.

Instructions for only one medium size - could be adapted by using a thicker yarn and bigger needles - but do work out your tension to check the size.

Cape section (make 6)

With No 7 (4½mm) needles and D, cast on 80 stitches and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): in B k5, * with wool at back, slip 2 purlwise, k4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 2 purlwise, k1.
2nd row: in B k1, * wool forward, slip 2 purlwise, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: in D k3, * wool forward, sl 2, k4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, k3.
4th row: in D k1, p2, * SL 2, p4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, p2, k1.
5th row: in B k1, * SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
6th row: in B k1, * p4, SL 2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
[Editor's note: the next 6 rows are repeats of the first 6 but reversing the colours.]

7th row: in D k5, *SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 2 purlwise, k1.
8th row: in D k1, * SL 2 purlwise, p4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
9th row: in B k3, * wool forward, SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, k3.
10th row: in B k1, p2, * SL 2, p4; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, SL 2, p2, k1.
11th row: in D k1, * SL 2, k4; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
12th row: in D k1, * p4, SL 2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

These 12 rows form the pattern.
Repeat the 12 pattern rows 3 times more, then the first 6 rows again.

Keeping pattern correct and keeping a knit stitch at each end of every purl row, as before, shape sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th row, until 46 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every following 6th row until 34 stitches remain, then at each end of every 4th row until 20 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.
Cast off in D.

Make 5 more sections in same way.

Lining section (make 6)

With No 10 (3½mm) needles cast on 70 stitches and work 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.

Next row: knit.
[This last row forms a ridge].

Work a further 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
Place a marker at each end and in the centre of the last row.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch for a further 38 rows.
With wrong side facing, shape sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until 40 stitches remain, then at each end of every 4th row until 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Make 5 more sections in the same way.

To Make Up

Use a large tapestry needle and 12 inch lengths of wool for sewing,
taking care the wool remains twisted during making up.

Press parts very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Using a fine back stitch seam (or mattress stitch), join 4 sections of the cape together at the side edges.

Now join one of the 2 remaining sections to one side of cape as follows (to make armhole slits at the front):
Join sides together for 4 inches from lower edge.
Leave the next 8 inches open for arm slits, then join remainder of side seam. Join remaining section to other side in the same way.

Join the lining in the same way, measuring the 4 inches up to the arm slits from the purl ridge.
Press seams.

Pin cape to lining, wrong sides together, lower edge of cape in line with markers on lining ; tack in position.
Sew hem of lining neatly to edge of cape, then catch lining to cape round arm slits.

Right Front Border: With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and D, cast on 13 stitches.
1st row: k6, SL 1, k6.
2nd row: purl.

Repeat these 2 rows until strip fits up right front edge when stretched, ending with right side facing.
Note: For a good fit band needs to be 3 inches shorter than edge of cape.

Next row: cast off 7, knit to end. Slip stitches on a safety pin.

Left Front Border: Work as for right border, ending with wrong side facing.
Next row: cast off 7, knit to end. Slip stitches on a safety pin.

Sew one edge of border in position to cape, from lower edge to 9 inches below neck, without stretching. Now ease the last 9 inches of the front edge on to the remainder of the band.
Fold the borders in half at the slipped stitch, and sew the other edge in position to the lining.

Neck Border: With right side of cape facing, No 10 (3¼mm) needles and D, k6 stitches of right border, pick up and knit 14 stitches from the top of each section, k6 border stitches. [96 sts]

Work 5 rows stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Next row: purl.
[This last row forms a ridge].

Work a further 4 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off.

Fold the neck border in half at the ridge, and slip-hem in position to the lining. Sew on fastenings as in photo.
Give cape a final light press.

Materials

22 x 1oz balls in DK yarn D (Ocean Deep ), and 9 balls in yarn B (Banff Brown).

A pair each of Nos
10 (3¼mm), 8 (4mm) and 7 (4½mm) needles.

Clasp hooks to fasten.
[Editor's note: You can find a good selection at the Textile Garden]

Tension

The tension is given as 26sts and 42 rows to 4 inches over the pattern on No 7 needles.
[Editor's note: the pattern stitch alters the tension making it much tighter than a plain stitch, so if you plan to knit the cape plain you will need to carefully check the tension and needles size.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size sizes to fit chest: 34-38 inches.
Length from top of shoulders 27 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

sl 1 (or sl 2): slip 1 (or 2) stitches by passing the stitch from one needle to the other without knitting it.

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Patons Fiona - a slightly fluffy Shetland double knitting yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

October 2015

Wraparound Midi Cape

WraparoundCape.jpg

Capes being the thing of the moment (though maybe not quite like this one).
Styled "Edwardian" from the early 1970s - hence the floppy hat and slightly whimsical setting a la Laura Ashley - I might choose to make this somewhat shorter, plain rather than striped, and use a tweed or textured yarn of some sort.

So.... a midi cape - and if that were not wonderful enough... it comes with matching trousers! How great is that?!

Cape Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.
The cape is knitted in stripes of 3 different yarns - labelled Medium, Light and Dark - the Medium (or Main) colour is a bouclé and the Light (Red) and Dark (Brown) are smooth yarns.

Back

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 92 (98 : 104) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 7 (3 : 6) m1, * rib 6 (7 : 7), m1 ; repeat from * to last 7 (4 : 7) stitches, rib 7 (4 : 7). [106 (112 : 118) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles and using stocking stitch, start with a knit row, and work in stripes as follows:

1st and 2nd rows: in D.
3rd to 6th rows:
in M.
7th and 8th rows: in L.
9th to 12th rows: in M.

These 12 rows form the striped pattern. [Note: Carry yarns loosely up side of work.]

Continue in pattern and work a further 12 rows straight.

Shape sides:
Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog tbl, k2.
Work 11 rows straight.
Repeat the last 12 rows until 70 (76 : 82) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until back measures 32 inches (81 cm) at centre, ending with right side facing.
Place a marker at each end of last row.

Continue decreasing 2 stitches as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 38 (44 : 50) stitches remain.

Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 2 stitches as before on the next and every alternate row until 28 (30 : 32) stitches remain.

Work 1 row straight, and leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Left Front

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 46 (48 : 52) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 3 (3 : 3) m1, * rib 8 (7 : 9), m1 ; repeat from * to last 3 (3 : 4) stitches, rib 3 (3 : 4). [52 (55 : 58) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles and using stocking stitch, start with a knit row, and work 24 rows straight in striped pattern.

Continue in striped pattern, shaping side edge as follows:
Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to end.
Work 11 rows straight.

Repeat the last 12 rows until 34 (37 : 40) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until front matches back to marker, ending with right side facing. Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Now decrease 1 stitch as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 20 (22 : 24) stitches remain.

With wrong side facing, shape neck by casting off 4 (5 : 5) stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Continue decreasing at the side edge on every 4th row from previous decrease, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 9 (13 : 16) stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the side edge as before, but on the next and every alternate row, and at the same time continue decreasing at neck edge on the next and following 1 (3 : 5) alternate rows. [5 (5 : 4) stitches remain].

Now keep neck edge straight and continue decreasing at side edge as before on following 2 (2 : 1) alternate rows. [3 sts]

Next row: purl.
Next row: k1, k2tog.
Next row: p2.
Next row:
k2tog.
Fasten off.

Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, reversing shapings and working 'togtbl' when shaping side edge.

Side Panels (make 2)

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 80 (84 : 88) stitches and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 1 (3 : 5), m1, * rib 7, m1 ; repeat from * last 2 (4 : 6) stitches, rib 2 (4 : 6). [92 (96 : 100) sts]

Join in D, change to No 8 needles, and stocking stitch, and starting with a knit row, work 24 rows straight in striped pattern.

Continue in striped pattern, shaping sides as follows:

Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, k2togtbl, k2.
Work 11 rows straight.

Repeat the last 12 rows until 56 (60 : 64) stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until work matches back to markers, ending with right side facing. Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Continue decreasing as before, but on the next and every following 4th row until 28 (32 : 36) stitches remain.

Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 2 stitches as before on the next and every alternate row until 10 stitches remain all sizes.
Work 1 row straight.

Leave stitches on a safety-pin.

Make a second side in the same way.

Left Front Border

With No 10 needles and M, cast on 9 sts.

1st rows (right side facing): k2, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1.
2nd row: k1, (p1, k1) 4 times.

Repeat the last 2 rows until the strip fits up the left front to the start of the neck shaping, when slightly stretched, ending with right side facing.
Leave stitches on a safety-pin at the top and sew border in position.

Right Front Border

Work to correspond with the left border with the addition of 13 buttonholes. The first buttonhole is to come 4 inches (10 cm) up from the lower edge, and the 13th is 2 inches (5 cm) below the start of the neck shaping; the remainder are spaced evenly between.

First mark position of buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With right side facing, rib 4, cast off 2, rib to end. On the next row cast on 2 stitches over those cast off.

To Make Up

Using a cool iron and dry cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting the ribbing.
Pin side panels to back; join panels up to markers matching stripes carefully, then join the remainder of the seam.

In the same way, join the front panels to side panels, leaving 9 inch (23 cm) slits for hands, bottom of slit to come 18½ inches (47 cm) up from the lower edge.
[Editor's note: If you are making a shorter cape you will need to work out where you need to put the slits for the arms.]

Right Slit Border:
With No 10 needles and M, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the front edge of the slit and work 5 rows k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Left slit border: work to correspond.

Neck Border:
With right side facing, using No 10 needles and M, work as follows:

Rib 9 from right border, pick up and knit 15 (16 : 17) stitches up right side of neck, k10 from side panel decreasing 1 stitch in centre, 28 (30 : 32) stitches from back decreasing 3 stitches evenly, 10 stitches from side panel decreasing 1 stitch in centre, then pick up and knit 15 (16 : 17) down left side, and finally rib 9 from left border. [91 (95 : 99) stitches.

Work 5 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Make a buttonhole in the next 2 rows as before, then work 12 rows. Make a buttonhole in the next 2 rows, then work 4 rows in rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Fold neck border in half to the wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position all round. Oversew loosely round double buttonhole.

Catch down short ends of slit borders neatly to main work.
Press seams.
Sew on buttons and press studs at neck.

Materials

13 (13 : 14) 50g balls in a bouclé DK yarn M (Terrazo), and 3 (3 : 4) 50g balls each DK yarn D (Loam Brown) and yarn L (Red Earth).

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

14 buttons and 2 press studs

Tension

The tension is given as 20sts and 30 rows to 4 inches overall using the striped pattern on No 8 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in three sizes to fit chest: 32-34 (34-38 : 40-42) inches or 81-86 (91-96 : 101-106) cm.
Length from top of shoulders 41½ (42 : 42½) inches or 105 (106 : 108) cm.

Abbreviations

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A word on the wool.

The original yarns were: Patons Totem - a standard double knitting using 4mm needles, and:
Patons Camelot (about which there is some misleading information on the web); it is a bouclé yarn knitted on 4mm needles with a stated tension of 19 sts to 4 inches - which makes it a somewhat heavy DK (or worsted/Aran) type weight.

The pattern knits these yarns alternately in stripes and this overcomes their differences. In substituting I would look for any DK or worsted weight that I liked and experiment with needle sizes to get the stated tension.

I can't offer any insights on yardage for these vintage yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


WraparoundCape2.jpg

Trousers Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given this applies to both sizes. The trousers are worked in one colour.

Left Leg

**
With No 10 needles, cast on 86 (90 : 96 : 100 : 106 : 110) stitches, and work 4 rows k1/p1 rib.

Next row: rib 4 (6 : 6 : 8 : 8 : 6), m1, * rib 11 (11 : 12 : 12 : 13 : 14), m1; repeat from * to last 5 (7 : 6 : 8 : 7 : 6) stitches, rib 5 (7 : 6 : 8 : 7 : 6). [94 (98 : 104 : 108 : 114 : 118) sts]

Change to No 8 needles and stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, and work straight until leg measures 25 (25 : 25½ : 25½ : 26 : 26) inches (63 (63 : 65 : 65 : 66 : 66) cm), ending with right side facing.

Shape leg as follows:

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 45 (47 : 50 : 52 : 55 : 57), m1, k1) twice.
Work 7 rows straight.

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 47 (49 : 52 : 54 : 57 : 59), m1, k1) twice.
Work 7 rows straight.

Next row: (k1, m1, knit 49 (51 : 54 : 56 : 59 : 61), m1, k1) twice.
Work 5 rows straight.

Place a marker at each end of the last row.

Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 96 (100 : 106 : 110 : 116 : 120) stitches remain.
Work 3 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 74 (78 : 88 : 92 : 102 : 106) stitches remain; then on every following 6th row until 66 (70 : 76 : 80 : 86 : 90) stitches remain.
**

Work 1 row straight.

***

Shape back as follows:

1st row: k29, turn.
2nd row and every alternate row: purl to end.
3rd row: k24, turn.
5th row: k19, turn.
7th row: k14, turn.
9th row: k9, turn.
11th row: k4, turn.
13th row: knit across all stitches picking up a loop at each point where work was turned and working it together with the next stitch to avoid a hole.

Change to No. 10 needles and work 1 inch (2 cm) k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Right Leg

Work as for left leg from ** to **.
Then work from *** to end, reading 'p' for 'k' and 'k' for 'p'.

To Make Up

Using a cool iron and dry cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting the ribbing.

Joint front, back and inside leg seams.
Press seams.

Cut elastic to fit waist and join in a ring; sew to the inside of the waist ribbing using herringbone-stitch over the over the elastic to form a casing.

Materials

10 (10 : 11 : 11 : 12 : 12) 50g balls of bouclé double knitting yarn (colour Terrazo)

Pair each Nos 8 (4mm) and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Length of elastic for waist of Trousers.

Tension

19 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

The pattern is given in six sizes to fit hips:

34 (36 : 38 : 40 : 42 : 44) inches;
[86 (91 : 96 : 101 : 106 : 111) cm].
Length of inside leg seam:
28 (28 : 28½ : 28½ : 29 : 29) inches;
[71 (71 : 72 : 72 : 73 : 73) cm].

Abbreviations

m1: pick up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

tbl: through back loops. [k2tog tbl also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

September 2015

Classic School Pullover

ClassicSchoolPullover3.jpg

A classic sleeveless school pullover with instructions for 4ply fingering and double knitting.
[Illustrated on a rather serious classic school boy.]

Instructions:

The instructions are give for a 28 inch chest with 3 larger sizes in brackets.
Note that there are 2 sets of instructions given separately for a 4 ply and a Double Knitting version of the pullover.

Casting on

Cast on using cable method.
Using two needles make a loop and slip it on to left-hand needle (1 stitch made), insert needle through front of stitch, draw loop through and place on left-hand needle (2 stitches).
* Insert needle through space between the 2 stitches, yarn round, pull loop through and place on needle (3 stitches). Repeat from * until you have the required number of stitches


4 ply Pullover Back

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on 98 [106; 112; 120] stitches and work in K1/P1 rib for 2 inches
Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch until work measures 11½ [12; 12½; 13] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 2 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 [74; 80; 88] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures 6 [; 7; ] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 5 [6; 7; 8] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 6
[7; 7; 8] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Cast off remaining stitches.

4 ply Pullover Front

Work as given for back until you reach the armhole shapings, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armhole and Divide for Neck:
Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4 stitches, k43 [47; 50; 54] stitches, k2tog; turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Purl.
Next row: Cast off 2 stitches, knit to end.
Next row: P2tog, purl to end.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 10 rows, and at the same time decrease. 1 stitch at the neck every following 3rd row from the last decrease until 16 [19; 21; 24] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures the same as back to the shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 [6; 7; 8] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining stitches.
With right side facing rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches on the spare needle and work to end.
Next row: Cast off 4 stitches; purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.

Continue to match the first side, reversing all shapings.

4 ply Pullover Neck Border

Join right shoulder seam.
With right side facing and using No 12 needles pick up and knit 60 [62; 64; 66] stitches down left side of neck, 1 stitch from centre, 60 [62; 64; 66] stitches up right side of neck, and 34 [36; 38; 40] stitches from back neck.

Next row: Work in K1/P1 rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; k2tog, p1, k2togtbl, rib to end.
Next row: Rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; p2togtbl, p1, p2tog, rib to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more.
Cast off ribwise.

4 ply Pullover Arm Borders

Join left shoulder seam (including the neck border).

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 12 needles pick up and knit 112 [120; 126; 132] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 10 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Press, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join side seams and armbands.
Press seams.


Double Knitting Pullover Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles cast on 84 [90; 96; 102] stitches and work in K1/P1 rib for 2 inches
Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and continue in stocking stitch until work measures 11½ [12; 12½; 13] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armholes:
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 [72; 78; 84] stitches remain. Then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 58 [64; 70; 76] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures 6 [; 7; ] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 5 [5; 6; 7] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then cast off 5 [7; 7; 7] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Cast off remaining stitches.

Double Knitting Pullover Front

Work as given for back until you reach the armhole shapings, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Armhole and Divide for Neck:
Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4 stitches, k36 [39; 42; 45] stitches, k2tog; turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Next row: Purl.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the following 5 rows, then 1 stitch on the following 4 alternate rows, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the neck every following 3rd row from the last decrease until 15 [17; 19; 21] stitches remain.
Continue straight until armhole measures the same as back to the shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 [5; 6; 7] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining stitches.

With right side facing rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches on the spare needle and work to end.
Next row: Cast off 4 stitches; purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.

Continue with armhole and neck shapings to match the first side, reversing all shapings.

Double Knitting Pullover Neck Border

Join right shoulder seam.
With right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 48 [50; 52; 54] stitches down left side of neck, 1 stitch from centre, 48 [50; 52; 54] stitches up right side of neck, and 28 [30; 32; 34] stitches from back neck.

Next row: Work in K1/P1 rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; k2tog, p1, k2togtbl, rib to end.
Next row: Rib to within 2 stitches of the centre stitch; p2togtbl, p1, p2tog, rib to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more.
Cast off ribwise.

Double Knitting Pullover Arm Borders

Join left shoulder seam (including the neck border).

For each armhole, with right side facing and using No 11 needles pick up and knit 90 [96; 102; 108] stitches evenly round armhole.
Work in K1/P1 rib for 8 rows.

Cast off ribwise.

To Make Up

Press, using a warm iron over a damp cloth.
Join side seams and armbands. Press seams.

Materials

4 ply version: 5 [6; 7; 7] x 1 oz balls
A pair each No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

DK version: 7 [7; 8; 9] x 1 oz balls
A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

4 ply version:
28 sts x 36 rows to 4 inches

DK version:
24 sts x 32 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Chest all round at underarm: on jumper, 26 [28; 30; 32] inches.
Length: 17½ [18½; 19½; 20½] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: decrease by knitting/purling 2 sts together.

k2togtbl: decrease by knitting 2 sts together through back loops, sometimes called ssk (slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place 2 sts back on left needle and knit/purl 2 slipped sts together through back loops).

p2togtbl: decrease by purling 2 sts together through back loops.

A word on the wool

The yarn in ounces.
A 50g ball of yarn is approximately 1¾ oz, or the other way around: 1oz is about 28g.

When substituting yarn, ideally you need to calculate using the yardage of the yarns - and with old patterns this is usually impossible, as the yardage is not given. So you need to be aware that in some cases, where the old yarn was synthetic or had a very good yardage, you may find that you use as much as one 50g ball for every 1 oz ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2015

Festival Bag

FestivalBag2.jpg

Festival season is well under way so I am posting this a little early - too late for Glastonbury but in time for WOMAD if you are a fast knitter (or knit while you are there..!).and Cropredy.
You can use any stitch for the bag that appeals, taking the pattern as a basic shape. You could try a multicoloured honeycomb pattern, or you could combine stripes of different pattern textures. The simplest shape (on the left) is the type I remember with the tasselled handle continuing all down the sides.

Instructions.

Striped bag (left)

Using No 3 needles and main colour A, cast on 36 stitches.
The bag is worked entirely in garter stitch (every row knitted); begin by knitting 2 rows.
Now pick up your contrast colour B and * knit 2 rows with B, 2 rows with A, 2 rows with B, 6 rows with A, 2 rows with B, 4 rows with A, 2 rows with B.
Repeat from the point marked * * 5 times altogether.
Cast off all the stitches.

To make up the striped bag

If you want to line the bag, cut the lining to the size of the bag, allowing 6mm (½ inch) turnings.
With right sides of bag facing each other, join the side seams.
Join the lining side seams.
Insert the lining and stitch round the top opening of bag.

Cut 6 strands each of A and B into 178cm (70 inch) lengths. Divide the strands into 3 groups and plait together to form a handle, making an overhand knot at each end and leaving the ends to form a tassel.

Stitch the plait in position along the side seams of the bag, having a tassel at each lower edge and leaving the remainder to form the handle.

Sew on one button or bead to the centre of each side of the top edge of the bag.
Make a double figure of eight with yarn A, large enough to fasten over both buttons, and work round the figure with buttonhole stitch.

Shoulder bag (right)

To make this bag you can experiment any textured pattern.
The bag shown is made from a strip worked in bobble stitch

Cast on 62 stitches and start knitting in your chosen pattern.
[Editor's note: work out your tension with your chosen yarn in the pattern you are planning to use , and cast on enough stitches for the width of the bag that you want to make.]

Continue in pattern until the length is about 3 times the height you want the bag to be, allowing up to 2 inches additional for the bottom of the bag. The bag shown was knitted 76cm (30 inches) long.

For the strap, cast on 11 stitches and work 106cm (42") in single rib.

Finishing the shoulder bag

Sew together so that the strap makes a gusset at the sides of the bag. You can optionally line the bag and add a couple of buttons and loops as shown in the Picture.

Textured Pattern stitches

Bobble rib

Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 6 plus 2.
1st row (right side): P2, * K1, P2, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: K2, * P1, K2, repeat from * to end.
3rd row:. P2, * K1, P2, (P1, K1, P1, K1) all into next st, this is done without removing the stitch you are working into until the 4 stitches have been — called M4 — P2, repeat from * to end.
[Editor's note: try to make these stitches fairly loose.
4th row:. K2, * K6, P1, K2, repeat from * to end.
5th row: P2,* K1, P2, (P4 then turn both needles round as if you are starting a new row and knit these 4 sts, turn work round and P these 4 sts — called B4 —), P2, repeat from * to end.
6th row: K2, * bring yarn to front of work, and insert right hand needle through the next 4 sts on the left hand needle from right to left and purl these 4 sts tog—called P4tog — K2, P1, K2, repeat from * to end.
7th row: As 1st row.
8th row:
As 2nd row.
9th row:. P2, * M4, P2, K1, P2, repeat from * to end.
10th row:. K2, * P1, K8, repeat from * to end
11th row: P2, * B4, P2, K1, P2, repeat from * to end.
12th row:. K2,* P1, K2, P4tog, K2, repeat from * to end.
These 12 rows form the pattern.

Cane basket stitch

Cast on a number of sts divisible by 6 plus 2.

1st row (right side): K2, * P4, K2, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: P2, * K4, P2, repeat from * to end.
Rep 1st and 2nd rows once more.
5th row: P3, * K2, P4, repeat from * to last 5 sts; K2, P3.
6th row:. K3, * P2, K4, repeat from * to last 5 sts; P2, K3.
Rep 5th and 6th rows once more.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Tassel stitch

Cast on a number of sts divisible by 6 plus 2.
1st row (right side): P2, * K4, P2, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: K2,* P4, K2, repeat from * to end.
Rep 1st and 2nd rows once more.
5th row: K2,* insert right hand needle from front to back between 4th and 5th sts on left hand needle, take yarn across back of sts and draw through a loose loop across front of 4 sts and leave on right hand needle, K1, P2, K3, repeat from * to end.
6th row: * P3, K2, bring yarn forward to front of work, insert right hand needle through next st and loop on left hand needle from right to left and purl these 2 sts together to decrease one st — called P2tog — repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2.
7th row: K3,* P2, K4, repeat from * to last 5 sts, P2, K3.
8th row: P3,* K2 P4, repeat from * to last 5 sts, K2, P3.
Rep 7th and 8th rows once more.
11th row: P2, K3, .* insert right hand needle from front to back between 4th and 5th sts on left hand needle, take yarn across back of sts and draw through a loose loop across front of 4 sts and leave on right hand needle, K1, P2, K3, repeat from * to last 3 sts, K1, P2.
12th row: K2, P4,* K2, P2tog, P3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2.
These 12 rows form the pattern.

You can find more textured stitches in these links:

A different basket stitch and blackberry stitch.

Honeycomb stitch in two colours

Materials

Striped Bag: 200gm (7oz) of uncut rug yarn in main shade A.
100gm (3½oz) in contrast colour B.
One pair No 3 (6½mm) needles.
Two wooden buttons or beads.
Optional lining: 30cm (12 inch) length of 90cm (36 inch) wide fabric.

Textured bag:
About 200gm (7 oz) of double knitting or worsted yarn.
One pair of No 8 (4mm) needles.
Optional lining fabric.

Tension

Striped bag:
About 12 sts to 4 inches

Textured bag:
22-26sts to 4 ins over pattern.

Size matters

Striped bag: 30cm (12 inches) by 25cm (10 inches)

Textured bag: About 25cm (10 inches) high by 23cm (9 inches) wide

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

A Word on the Wool

The suggested use of rug wool is good for bags though can be hard on the fingers. Rug yarns are fairly thick - a chunky or bulky yarn equivalent.

Always check the tension and you can make a bag of the exact dimensions you want.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

These types of bag were very popular in the 1970s - I used one instead of a school satchel. Probably the striped bag on the left above is the most stylistically similar to the ones I remember - I might choose different colours!
My own bag - now long lost - was woven in a mixture of dark red and blue. Below is a genuine "gap year" cloth bag from the 1970s which made its way backpacking to the far east and back. It is a mail bag style like the knitted version pictured on the right above.

FestivalBag3.jpg

Below is a detail from the picture. The bag is woven of course but you could reproduce this pattern in knitting and easily add lots of tassels.

FestivalBag3-detail.jpg

The main bag has the stripes running vertically, and the flap has them horizontal. If you want this effect, as it's not easy to knit vertical stripes while keeping the integrity of the fabric, you could use this chart as written for the flap, and then use it to knit the front and bag in one piece from side to side. If you were feeling really confident you could knit front and back (sideways rectangle) then pick up the stitches from the side of the knitting and knit the flap.
So - to do this - before you start - work out your tension and then how large you want the bag to be. Lets say that it's 12 inches high and 10 inches wide. You need to cast on enough stitches to make 24 inches in the width of your knitting. Then knit stocking stitch in pattern for 10 inches and cast off. At the side of the knitting, pick up stitches for the flap. Usually this means picking up 2 stitches for every 3 rows to make a flat fabric without puckering. Then knit in the pattern for up to 12 inches to cover the front of the bag - if you are adding tassels you might want to knit as little as 4-6 inches.

FestivalBag-chart.jpg

Finally I'll leave you to extemporise on the handle and tassels. You might want to knit a plain handle about 2 inches wide and back it with some kind of webbing - then you would use it as the sides of the bag as you can see our original was made. Or you could just fold the bag without sides and apply a plaited cord handle as for the first bag on the left in these instructions.

You would probably need to use a 4 ply / DK / worsted on a smaller than usual needle to give a solid fabric, and it would be a good idea to line it with something firm.

I'm sure you could also make a simple bag from two woven panels (three for a mail bag) - perhaps made using a fairly crude home-made loom. I am planning to experiment with this in the near future. Watch this space (!).

July 2015

Beach swim set

SwimSet.jpg

I have a weakness for blue and white so I find this very appealing. I note that they emphasise the firmness of the diamond stitch - whether this is for modesty or keeping its shape one cannot be certain.
I am not altogether sure of he relevance of the props - basket of grapefruit (tropical beaches?), an apparently woolly scarf ("gosh it's chilly in this photo studio"?).

Instructions.

Strand unused wool loosely across back of work.
L signifies Light yarn and D is Dark yarn.

Pattern rows as follows:
1st row: Knit, * 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 7L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L; repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3D.
2nd row: Purl, 3D, * 4L, 1D,1L, 1D,1L, 1D, 5L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * 3D, 5L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L; repeat from * to last 3 sts., 3D.
4th row: 3L, * 3D, 3L, (1D, 1L) 6 times, 2L, 3D, 3L; repeat from * to end.
5th row: * 3L, 3D, 4L, (1D, 1L) 5 times, 3L, 3D; repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3L.
6th row: 3L, * 3D , 5L, (1D, 1L) 4 times, 4L, 3D, 3L; repeat from * to end.
7th row: * 3D, 3L , 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L, 3D, 3L; repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3D.
8th row: 3D, * 3L, 3D, 4L , 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D, 3L, 3D; repeat from * to end.
9th row: As 7th.
10th row: As 6th.
11th row: As 5th.
12th row: As 4th.
13th row: As 3rd.
14th row: As 2nd.
15th row: As 1st.
16th row: 3L, * 2L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L, 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L; repeat from * to end
17th row: * 4L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D, 4L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts., 3L.
18th row: 3L * 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L, 3D, 5L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 3L; repeat from * to end.
19th row: * (1D, 1L) 4 times, 2L, 3D, 3L, 3D, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts. , 1D, 1L, 1D.
20th row: 1L, 1D, 1L, * 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, 3D, 3L, 3D, 4L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to end.
21st row: * 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 5L, 3D, 3L, 3D, 5L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts., 1D, 1L, 1D.
22nd row: 1L, 1D, 1L, * 1D, 3L, (3D, 3L) 3 times; 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to end.
23rd row: * 1D, 1L, 1D, 4L, (3D, 3L) 3 times, 1L; repeat from * to last 3 sts. , 1D, 1L, 1D.
24th row: 1L, 1D, 1L, * 1D, (3L, 3D) 3 times, 3L, 1D, 1L, 1D, 1L; repeat from * to end.
25th row: As 21st.
26th row: As 20th.
27th row: As 19th.
28th row: As 18th.
29th row: As 17th.
30th row: As 16th.

These 30 rows form the pattern.

[Editor's note: You can see how the pattern looks in the photo and on the chart but the chart is an adapted version specially designed to be used for the top.]

Trunks (front)

With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 107 stitches and work 24 rows k1, p1 rib.
Purl 1 row
Change to No 10 needles and pattern in stocking stitch.
At the same time shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 9th and every following 8th row, 8 times, taking the increased stitches into the pattern as they are made. [123 sts]

Work straight to the end of the 14th row of the 3rd pattern.

Continue in pattern, shaping legs by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and then 6 sts at the beginning of the following 14 rows. [23 sts remain and 3 complete patterns have been worked].

Work 6 rows straight in L on these 23 sts.
Cast off.

Trunks (back)

Work waist ribbing exactly as for front.
Then work back shaping thus:
Next row: Rib 64, turn; rib 21, turn; rib 31, turn; rib 41, turn; rib 51, turn; rib 61, turn; rib 71; turn; rib 81, turn; rib to end.
Rib back over all stitches.
Purl 1 row.
Change to No 10 needles and pattern and finish exactly as front.

Top (front)

With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 101 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and increase for bust thus:
Next row: p32, purl twice into each of next 9 sts, p19, purl twice into each of the next 9 sts, p32. [119 sts]

Continue straight in pattern, working from chart, and reading knit rows from right to left, purl rows from left to right. Your first 2 rows will read:
1st row: Knit, A to B, then (B to C) 4 times, then C to D.
2nd row: Purl, D to C, then (C to B) 4 times, then B to A.

Continue thus until 26th row of chart has been worked.

SwimSet.jpg

With right side facing, continue working chart, and at the same time shaping top by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 3 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 2, pattern 48, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue in pattern on first half of work, decreasing 1 stitch at centre
front on every row and casting off 2 sts at side edge at the beginning of every knit row until the 39th row of the chart has been worked and 24 sts remain.

Change to No 12 needles and continue in l.. wool only, casting off 3 sts
at the beginning of every row until all stitches are gone.

With right side facing join wool to remaining stitches at centre front; cast off 1, then work to correspond with first shoulder, reversing shapings.

Top (back)

Left Back:
With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 54 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 12 needles and stocking stitch and work 22 rows straight. With right side facing, shape back by casting off 9 sts at the beginning of the next 6 knit rows.

Right back: Work to correspond with left, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Press all pieces well under a damp cloth.

TRUNKS: Join under-leg seam. With
L wool, right side facing, and No 13 needles, pick up and knit 116 sts along each leg; work 1 inch k1, p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.
Join side seams.
Turn under 12 rows of the rib at the waist and hem to wrong side, leaving an opening for elastic.

TOP: With right side facing, L wool, and No 13 needles, pick up and knit 54 sts along top of left back. Work ¾ inch in k1, p1 rib.
Cast off.
Work right back in the same way.

With right side facing, begin at left side of front and pick up and knit 45 sts to top of left point, 26 down to centre, 26 to top of right point and 45 sts down right side.
Work ¾ inch in k1, p1 rib, decreasing 1 stitch at the top of each point on alternate rows.
Cast off.

With L wool and No 13 needles, cast on 9 sts and work 2 strips each 14 inches long in k1, p1 rib for ties. Sew in position, one at top
of each point.
Join side seams.
With right side facing and L wool, work 2 rows double crochet down each side of back opening, then a 3rd row down right
side, making 6 button loops.
Sew on buttons.
Press all seams.
Thread shirring elastic through ribbing round lower edge of top.

Materials

Patons Purple Heather Fingering
4 ply, 5 oz light shade and 3 oz dark shade.

A pair each Nos 10 (3¼mm), 12 (2¾mm) and 13 (2¼mm) needles.
No 12 (2½mm) crochet hook.

Six small buttons
Shirring elastic

Tension

34sts and 32 rows to 4 ins on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit 34 inch bust; 36 inch hips; length from waist to crutch, 13½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

1L or 1D: knit or purl in light or dark colour.

double crochet:
find instructions to crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

Patons Purple Heather was a standard 4 ply; however the stated tension seems rather tighter but may be taking account of the fair-isle pattern and stranding the wool across the back, which tends to make the work tight.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

June 2015

Holiday Jumper!

HolidayJumper3.jpg

Very simple to knit, this open-air jumper, since the pattern is rib, broken by plain and purl rows at intervals. The attractive collar is just two triangular pieces knotted together at the centre front and centre back.

"A nicely casual affair with short sleeves and a scarf collar"

Instructions.

The overall pattern stitch as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): Knit.
2nd row: k1, p1 rib
3rd row: k1, p1 rib
4th row: Purl
5th - 18th row: k1, p1 rib

[Editor's note: The ribbed stitch will have the effect of making the fabric pull in slightly.]

Back

With blue wool and No 12 needles cast on 120 stitches. Work 1½ inches in k1, p1 rib, then start pattern as given above.
On the 5th row change to No 10 needles; on the 11th row change to No 9 needles.

After completing first pattern (18 rows), increase once at each end of
every 7th row 9 times, making 138 stitches on the needle.

Continue straight on these sts until you have completed the 6th pattern from commencement (work should measure about 13 inches).

Armhole shapings:
Decrease at the beginning and end of every alternate row for the next 16 rows (that is, 8 decreased each side); then decrease at the beginning and end of every row until 30 sts remain.

Cast off.

Front

With blue wool and No 12 needles, cast on 130 stitches.

Work exactly as for the back up to the armhole (148 stitches on the needles).
Cast off 6 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then decrease at each end of every alternate row 4 times (altogether 10 decreased each side).

Divide for neck-opening:

With right side facing, work 64, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Continuing in the pattern on the 64 stitches, decrease at shoulder end on every row and at the same time at the neck end on every 3rd row until all are gone; fasten off.
Rejoin wool at the centre, and work the opposite shoulder side to correspond.

Sleeves

With blue wool and No 12 needles cast on 72 stitches.

Work 1¼ inches in k1, p1 rib, then work in pattern, increasing at each end of every 3rd row, and during the first pattern changing to No 10 needles on the 5th row, and to No 9 needles on the 11th row.

When you have completed 2 whole patterns and 4 rows of the 3rd pattern (98 stitches on needle) shape for shoulder as follows:

Work in pattern to last 4 stitches, turn; slip 1, work to last 4 stitches, turn; slip 1, work to last 8 stitches, turn; slip 1, work to last 8 stitches,
turn.
Continue thus, keeping continuity of pattern, until you have "turned" 8 times each end, each "turn" being 4 stitches before the previous one that side.
Work right to end of last row, knitting across the slipped stitches.

[Editor's note: You are working short rows here to provide shaping. When you slip the stitches and then pick them up again you can get small holes or discontinuities. You can live with these as part of the pattern (in this design they may well be hidden by the collar) or you can read more about short rows and wrapping stitches >>HERE<<.]

Cast off loosely 18 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
Decrease at each end of every alternate row until 24 sts remain.
Cast off.

Work second sleeve in same way.

Collar

The collar is made up of two triangular pieces, knotted at the centre back and centre front.

Using blue wool and No 10 needles, cast on 94 stitches.

Work 7 rows in k1, p1, rib, decreasing at the beginning of the first and every alternate row.

Changing to white wool, knit the next row plain, decreasing to 72 sts by knitting together every 4th and 5th stitches.

Continue in stocking stitch for 24 rows, decreasing on every alternate row at the opposite edge to the previous decreasings.
Purl next row.
This is the "ear" that is knotted in front.

Now start the edge that is stitched to the neck.
Cast off 10 stitches at shaped end, then decrease at this edge on every alternate row until 10 sts remain, keeping the other side straight.
Now decrease at same edge on every row until no sts remain.

With blue wool and No 10 needles, cast on 108 stitches.
Work 7 rows in k1, p1 rib, decreasing at the beginning of the first and every alternate row; cast off.

Sew this blue strip along the straight edge of the white triangle, mitreing the decreased end carefully with the decreased end of the blue ribbing with which triangle was begun.

Repeat this triangle with colours reversed, and with shapings at opposite ends.

Making Up

Press only very lightly.
Sew up side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves, taking care that the ridge rows of pattern meet at each shoulder seam.
Stitch each half of the collar half round the neck of jumper; knot the "ears" front and back, and stitch.

Materials

Beehive Fingering, 2 ply - original uses 4 oz in blue, and 1 oz in white.

One pair each No 12 (2¾mm), No 10 (3¼mm), and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

36 sts to 4 inches, measured over unstretched rib on No 9 needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size:
chest 32-34 inches; length 18½ inches;
sleeve seam, 5 inches.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is given as "2 ply" which it probably literally was; however the tension is more like a 3 or 4 ply yarn weight.

I would substitute with a 4 ply - or even a fine double knit if I wanted to increase the size - but do your calculations and swatching carefully if you want to do this, and vary your needle size. Moving to a fine DK or 5 ply weight at 6 sts per inch could move from 37 inch chest to as much as 43 inches.

I would also count at least one 50g ball for every ounce stated (speaking from past experience in yarn substitution).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2015

Andy Pandy Romper

AndyPandyRomper.jpg

This is an adorable romper; the stripes are created by knitting garter stitch ridges sideways using contrast yarn. Pom-pom ties are used as fasteners at the shoulders.

After last months picture of the Andy Pandy puppet, how could I resist making this outfit.

Instructions

The romper is easy to knit, though - like exam questions - make sure you read the pattern and understand the pictures of the pieces clearly before you start.

Pattern stitches

Garter Stitch: every row knitted.
Stocking stitch: 1 row knit; 1 row purl.
Striped pattern: 4 rows in white in stocking stitch, 2 rows in blue in garter stitch (both rows knitted). Repeat these 6 rows to form the stripes.

Trouser legs

This section is worked sideways in one piece up to the armhole. Dotted lines in picture show the centre sides and the ankle borders.

Using 3mm needles and white yarn (A) , cast on 34 sts and knit 3 rows of striped pattern.

Next row (wrong side) : Cast on 47 sts and purl across these and to end of row. [81 sts]

Continue in striped pattern, shaping waist by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the 9th and every following 10th row until 77 sts remain.

Work straight until leg measures 23cm (9 inches) from the beginning, ending with wrong side facing.
[Editors note: this is about 87 rows; 14 blue ridges ending on row 3 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast off 47 sts and purl to end of row. [30 sts]

Work straight on these 30 sts for 2 cm (¾ inch) ending with wrong side facing.
[Editors note: this is about 9 rows; 2 more blue ridges ending on row 1 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast on 47 sts and purl across these and to end of row. [77 sts]

Work straight until section measures 36 cms (14¼ inches) from the beginning, ending with right side facing.

Start shaping the waist again by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every following 10th row until there are 81 sts.
[Editors note: From now on, you can judge where to start increasing and casting off by folding your piece at the centre and matching the stripes.]

Work straight until section measures 47 cms (18½ inches) from the beginning, ending with wrong side facing.
[Editors note: this is finishing on row 1 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast off 47 sts and purl to end of row. [34 sts]

Work 2 rows stocking stitch in white (A).
Cast off.

Ankle Borders

With 2½mm needles and white yarn A, knit up 70 sts along lower edge of leg.

Next row: K1; (k2tog) 34 times; k1. [36 sts]

Now work in garter stitch for 2 cm (¾ inch).
Cast off.

Left Front

With 3mm needles and white yarn A throughout, cast on 53 sts and work 1 cm (½ inch) in garter stitch.

Next row (right side): Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: K4, sl 1, k2tog, psso, knit to end. [51 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Next row: K4, SL 1, k2tog, psso, knit to the last 6 sts; k2tog, k4.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: K4, SL 1, k1, psso, knit to end. [47 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Rep these last 4 rows until 11 sts remain.

Next row: K3, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k3tog, k2. [7 sts]
Next row: K2, p3; k2.
Next row: K2, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k2. [5 sts]
Next row: K2, p1; k2.
Next row: K1, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k1. [3 sts]
Next row: K3.

Cast off.

Right Back

Work as for Left front.

Right Front

With 3mm needles and white yarn A throughout, cast on 53 sts and work 1 cm (½ inch) in garter stitch.

Next row (right side): Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: Knit to the last 7 sts; k3tog, k4. [51 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Next row: K4, SL 1, k1, psso, knit to the last 7 sts; k3tog, k4.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: Knit to the last 6 sts; k2tog, k4. [47 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Rep these last 4 rows until 11 sts remain.

Next row: K2, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k3tog, k3. [7 sts]
Next row: K2, p3; k2.
Next row: K2, k3tog, k2. [5 sts]
Next row: K2, p1; k2.
Next row: K1, k3tog, psso, k1. [3 sts]
Next row: K3.

Cast off.

Left Back

Work as for Right front.

Making Up

Join centre back seam and leg seams.

Placing left front over right front and right back over left back, sew bodice pieces to trousers.
[Editors note: It's not altogether clear what is meant by "left" and "right" here - both in the instructions and in the making up. Convention says that it means from the point of view of the person (or baby) wearing it. However the pictures imply that it is as you are looking at the romper. It does not matter of course - do what you like best - but be consistent. ]

Make twisted cords and small pom-poms, and attach to shoulders for fastenings.
[Editors note: I actually used press studs - the sort that you apply with a gripper tool - and added the pom-poms just as a decoration (I didn't want to leave them out as I think they are pretty cute!).]

Materials

2 x 50g ball yarn A (white),
1 x 50g ball yarn B (blue)

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.

Tension

22sts x 38 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch pattern on 3mm needles.

Use smaller or larger needles to obtain the correct tension.

Size matters

Instructions given for age 3 months.

Chest 42 cms,
(17 inches).

Abbreviations

k2tog/k3tog: knit 2 or 3 sts together.

Sl 1: slip 1 stitch

Sl 1, k1/k2tog, psso: slip 1, knit 1/k2tog, pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 1 or 2 sts).

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard double knitting with good yardage of 126 yards (115 meters) - so you may need 3 balls of the main colour if substituting.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

April 2015

Ducks On Parade

DucksOnParade.jpg

A twin set with a duck motif for Easter. However, the biggest charmer here is in the photo. Not only is the girl cute and looking like she having a lovely day out, but we have a real star in the shape of an original Andy Pandy himself.

Even if the cardigan set does not appeal, these are cute little duckling motifs and the charts could be used for cushions or as cross stitch patterns.

Instructions:

The individual ducklings are worked intarsia style, but main shade is stranded loosely across back of work when not in use.
Eyes and beaks of ducklings, and water are embroidered afterwards.

Charts

The charts are included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the charts you can right click on the icon below and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart images full size in the browser then right click on the image and choose "view image".

Cardigan Back

Begin by winding 4 balls each of Lemon (L) and Gold (G) wool.
With No 12 needles and main shade (M) wool, cast on 100 sts and work 2 inches k1, p1 rib, increasing 3 sts evenly across on last row. [103 sts].

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and work 30 pattern rows from chart B, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right.
Join in separate balls of L and G for each duckling.

When the 30 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in main shade (M) only until back measures 9 inches. Then with right side facing, begin to shape armholes by casting off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every knit row until 83 sts remain.

Work straight until back measures 14½ inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows; cast off remaining stitches.

Left Front

With No 12 needles and main shade (M), cast on 50 sts and work 2 inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [51 sts]

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch and work 42 pattern rows from chart C, reading odd and even rows as on back and joining in a separate ball of G for each bird.
Remember that the mother duck is in white (W) and the duckling in Lemon (L) as before. The mother duck's beak is knitted in, rather than embroidered afterwards.

When the 42 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in M only until front measures 7 inches.

Here shape front edge:
Next row (right side facing): Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Work 3 rows straight.

Continue thus, decreasing 1 stitch at front edge on the next and every following 4th row. Meanwhile, when front matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape armhole by casting off 5 sts at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at this edge on the following 5 knit rows, after which you keep the armhole edge straight.
Continue decreasing 1 stitch at the front edge on every 4th row as before until 24 sts remain.

Work straight until front matches back.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, armhole edge.

Right Front:

Work as for left front, reversing all shapings.
When working pattern from chart, read rows backwards, so that ducks will face each other at front edges, that is, read odd rows knit from left to right and even rows purl from right to left.
[Editor's Note: In the pdf file of the charts I have provided a copy of Chart C in reverse in case you find that easier to work from.]

Sleeves (both alike):

With No 12 needles and B. wool, cast on 52 sts and work 2 inches in k1, p1 rib.
Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 8th row until there are 74 sts.
Work straight until sleeve measures 11½ inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 46 sts remain, and then at each end of every row until 20 sts remain.

Cast off.

Front Borders:

Join shoulder seams.
With No. 12 needles and B. wool, cast on 9 sts and work a strip in k1, p1 rib, (rows on the right side having a k1 at each end), long enough to go up right front, round back of neck and down left
front when slightly stretched.
Sew in position as you go along, and make 5 buttonholes in right border, first to come about ¼ inch from lower edge, and the 5th at the beginning of the front slope with the remainder at equal intervals in between.
Mark the position of the buttons on the left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole: right side facing, rib 4, cast off 2, rib to end. On the next row casting on 2 over those cast off.

Jumper Front:

**
Begin by winding 3 balls each of G and L.
With No 12 needles and M, cast on 96 sts and work 2 inches k1/p1 rib, increasing 2 sts on last row [98 sts]

Change to No 11 needles and work 2 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
Continue in stocking stitch and work 26 pattern rows from chart A, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right. Join in separate balls of and G and L wools for each duckling.

When the 26 rows are completed, continue straight in stocking stitch in M until front measures 9 inches. Then, with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next and every following knit row until 80 sts
remain. **

Work straight until front measures 12½ inches. Then, with right side facing, shape neck as follows:-

Next row (right side facing): K30, k2tog, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 31 sts , decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 27 sts remain. Then decrease on every alternate row
until 24 sts remain.

Work a few rows straight until front measures 14 inches.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge).
With right side facing, return to the remaining stitches on the spare needle. Slip the centre 16 sts on a spare needle, rejoin wool to last 32 sts, k2tog knit to end. [31 sts]

Finish to correspond with first shoulder.

Jumper Back

Work as for front from ** to ** . [80 sts]

Work straight over all stitches until back measures 11½ inches.
Here divide for back opening: -

Next row (right side facing): K42, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: K4, purl to end. NEXT Row:
Next row: Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to end.
Continue straight on these 42 sts, keeping 4 sts at centre back in garter stitch throughout and the remainder in stocking stitch
and at the same time make 3 buttonholes up opening (the 4th comes in neckband later) - first to come in next row and the remaining 2 at ¾ inch intervals.

To make a buttonhole: with right side facing, knit to last 3 sts, wool forward, k2tog, k1.

When back measures same as front, with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, (armhole edge); leave remaining 18 sts on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to last 38 sts, cast on 4 sts for underlap.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl to the last 4 sts, k4.

Finish to correspond with right shoulder, omitting buttonholes.

Jumper Sleeves

With No 12 needles and M, cast on 63 sts, and work ¾ inch k1/p1 rib, rows on right side having a k1 at each end.

Change to No 11 needles and stocking stitch, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 71 sts.

Work a few rows straight until sleeve measures 2¾ inches.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 47 sts remain, and then decrease at each end of every row until 19 sts
remain.

Cast off.

Jumper Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing, using No 12 needles and M, pick up and knit 87 sts all round neck, including those on spare needles at back and front. Work inch k1/p1 rib, making 4th buttonhole after inch has been done and remembering to keep 4 sts at each end in garter stitch as before.

Cast off in rib.

Making Up

Press parts carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert Sleeves.
Embroider eyes with single brown detached chain stitch as indicated
on Chart; embroider beaks in gold slanting satin stitch shapes as indicated by lines on chart. Finally, indicate water round feet with a few straight stitches of varying lengths in white.

Cardigan: embroider eyes and beaks of ducklings as for jumper.
Sew on buttons.
Press all Seams.

Materials

3 ply yarn:
8 oz Powder Blue (main shade).
½ oz ball in Lemon; small balls (less than ½ oz each) of 3 ply in Gold and White.
Scraps of brown for eyes.

A pair each No 11 (3mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

Four small buttons for jersey and 5 larger ones for cardigan.

Tension

32 sts and 40 rows to 4 inches on No 11 (3mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

Chest all round at underarm: on jumper, 25 ins; on cardigan, 26 ins;
length from top of shoulders: on jumper, 14 ins; on cardigan 14½ ins;
sleeve seam: 2¾ ins and 11½ inches.

A word on the wool

Original called for Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. You can find some nice 3 plies available to meet the tension specified.
Just for the lemon colour used for the ducklings the specified yarn was Patons Fuzzy-Wuzzy Angora which would make a nice effect if you could find some suitable fluffy 3 or 4 ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2015

Guernsey Socks

GuernseySocks5.jpg

One of my earliest POMs was for a "flag dishcloth" as I really like this traditional Guernsey pattern. These are 5ply socks which reflect this design on the upper part of the sock - the feet are knitted plain. This is a nice wool weight if you want a slightly thicker sock, and no need to be limited to navy or cream (nice though that is), as 5ply is generally available in a good range of colours.
It can also be a good way to use up left over 5 ply, especially if you bought the wool for a guernsey in large cones.

Instructions (work 2 alike).

Using No 11 needles, cast on 102sts.
Place 34sts on each of 3 needles and join in the round.
Place a stitch marker to show where the rounds start and finish.

First Round: * K2tog, k1, p2tog, p1. Repeat from * to end. [68 sts]

[Editor's note: Casting on 2 or 3 times the required stitches and then immediately decreasing on the first row provides a method of making sure you have a nice loose cast-on for the top of the sock. Otherwise chaps have a habit of yanking on their socks and right away breaking the first row of stitches, (ask me how I know...).]

Work 2 rounds in k2, p2 rib, then change to No 12 needles and work 8 more rounds in rib.

Next Round: Knit.
Next Round: Purl.
Next Round: Purl.

Change to No 11 needles and knit 1 round.

Flag Pattern

This pattern is worked down the leg as far as the ankle.

1st Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p2, k9; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * p3, kl, p5, k8, repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p4, k7; repeat from * to end.
4th Round: * p3, kl, p7, k6, repeat from * to end.
5th Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p6, k5; repeat from * to end.
6th Round: * p3, kl, p9, k4, repeat from * to end.
7th Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p8, k3; repeat from * to end.
8th Round: * p3, kl, p11, k2, repeat from * to end.
9th Round: * (p1, k1) 3 times; p10, k1; repeat from * to end.
10th Round: * p3, kl, p13 repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 10 pattern rows 3 more times.
[Editor's note: You can, of course, repeat the 10 rows more times for a longer sock, but bear in mind you will need extra wool.]

Next Round: Knit.
Next Round (decrease): (p5, p2tog) to last 5 sts, p5. [59 sts]
Next Round (decrease): (k2tog, k18) twice; k2tog, k17. [56 sts].

Knit 3 rounds.

Divide for heel

Next Row: K14; turn.
1st Row: Slip 1; p27; turn.

Divide the remaining stitches on to two needles and leave to pick up later for the instep.

2nd Row: Slip 1; k27.
3rd Row: Slip 1; p27.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows, 12 times more.

Turn Heel

Next Row: K18, slip 1, k1, psso (pass the slipped stitch over), turn.

Next Row: P9, p2tog, turn.
Next Row: K9, slip 1, k1, psso, turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until all stitches are taken up and 10 sts remain, and (right side of work facing) knit across the 10 sts, then, pick up and knit 14 sts along side of heel.
Slip all instep sts on to one needle, and using 2nd needle knit across instep sts.
Using 3rd needle, pick up and knit 14 sts along side of heel, then knit 5 heel sts from the first needle, slipping them on the end of the 3rd needle to complete the round. [66 sts].

Shape instep:

Knit one round on all stitches.

Next round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: Knit. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to end.
Next round: Knit.

Repeat these two rounds until 56 stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 5½(6, 6½) inches, or desired length for foot.

Shape Toe:

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to end.

2nd round: Knit.
3rd round: Knit.

Repeat these 3 rounds until 28 sts remain.

Making Up

Knit stitches from 1st needle on to end of 3rd needle.
Graft or cast off the two sets of 14 sts together.

Materials

2 x 50g balls British Breeds Guersey 5ply

One set of 4 number 12 (2¾mm) needles, (or 2½mm if necessary), and,
one set of 4 number 11 (3mm) needles.

A stitch marker.

Tension

26sts and 32 rows to four inches on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit men's shoe sizes: 10 (10½, 11).

Abbreviations

k2tog/p2tog: knit/purl 2 sts together.

SL 1: slip 1 stitch

SL 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

February 2015

Nice and Easy ... hat and scarf

NiceNEasyHat2.jpg

This is the month for the Sailor's Society** "woolly hat week" (8th-14th February 2015). So I thought I would post this hat and scarf combination - easy to knit in 4 ply fingering weight knitting yarn - perhaps suitable for a sailor if you omit the pom-pom decoration!

You can find other patterns as well as where to send your hats on their website link above. Also see my previous POM from 2008 with other chunky hat patterns - including my all time favourite appropriately knitted in Fisherman's rib.

Here's what Hannah says: "Our international network of port chaplains and ship visitors give your amazing hats out to seafarers visiting port, while others are wrapped and included in the Christmas welfare parcels that are taken on board ship for the festive season. The need for more hats is ever-increasing! Drew, our Port Chaplain in Invergordon, has been known to give out 500 in a day on occasion!"

Instructions

Panels of moss stitch and flag stitch are used for this cosy scarf and pull on hat. The scarf is fringed and the hat trimmed with a large pom-pom.

Scarf

Cast on 72 sts
1st row (right side): * (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p7; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
2nd row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k6, p2; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
3rd row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k3, p5; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
4th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k4, p4; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
5th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k5, p3; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
6th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
7th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k7, p1; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
8th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, p8; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until scarf measures 167½ cm (66 inches) from beginning, (or however long you want the scarf to be) ending with an 8th pattern row.

Cast off.

To make up the Scarf

Do not press.
Cut yarn into 30½ cm (12 inch) lengths. Taking 3 strands together, knot fringe into every alternate stitch along cast on and cast off edges.

Hat

Cast on 144 stitches.

Work in pattern as given for scarf, but without the moss stitch border on both sides. So set out your rows as follows:

1st row (right side): * (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p7; repeat from * end.
2nd row: * k6, p2; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k3, p5; repeat from * to end.
4th row: * k4, p4; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
5th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k5, p3; repeat from * to end.
6th row: * k2, p6; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
7th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k7, p1; repeat from * to end.
8th row: * p8; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.

Continue until work measures 25½ cm (10 inches) from beginning, ending with an 8th pattern row.

Shape crown

Next row: * Moss st 8, k1, p2, ybk, sl 1, yfwd, p2tog, psso, p2; repeat from * to end of row. [126 sts]

Next row: * k4, p2, moss st 8; repeat from * to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 8, k2, sl 1, p2tog, psso, p1; repeat from * to end of row. [108 sts]

Next row: * k1, p3, moss st 8; repeat from * to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 8, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [90 sts]

Next row: Moss st to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 7, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [72 sts]

Next row: Moss st to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 5, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [54 sts]

Continue decreasing in this way on every alternate row until 18 sts remain. Break off yarn, thread through sts, draw up and fasten off.

To make up the Hat

Do not press.
Join back seam reversing 7½ cm (3 inches) at lower edge.
Press seam lightly under a damp cloth with a warm iron.
Turn back brim.

Trim with a large pom-pom.

Materials

7 x 50g balls 4 ply (fingering) yarn.

One pair 3¾ mm (UK 9) needles.
[Editors note: If you can't find 3¾ mm needles then you can use 3½ mm .]

Tension

26sts x 36 rows to 4 ins over moss stitch on 3¾ mm needles.

Size matters

Scarf: 28 cm (11 inches) wide, by 167½ cm (66 inches) long, excluding fringe
Hat: to fit average adult head, width round crown 56 cm (22 inches).

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

p2tog: purl 2 sts together.

ybk: put yarn to back of work.

yfwd: put yarn to front of work.

sl 1: slip 1 stitch

sl 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1 / k2tog / p2tog, pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 1 stitch).

sl 1, k2tog (p2tog), psso: slip 1, k2tog, (p2tog), pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 2 sts).

moss stitch: knit alternate sts k1/p1 but place the knit stitch over a purl in the row below and the purl stitch over a knit stitch. (Also called "seed stitch").

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard 4 ply

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

NiceNEasyHat3.jpg

** Please note that the Sailors Society does seem to be a religious organisation, which I mention not through any disapproval on my part, but in case you would care to look at their website and ensure its aims do not go against anything you believe in.

January 2015

Tweed Cardigan Coat

TweedCoat1.jpg

Wonderfully stylish mid-1950s tweed coat-style cardigan. I had to leave the background in the photo - indicating knitwear alla moda - and an exotic photo-shoot.

"Double-knitting and bouclet are worked together to produce this attractive tweed-knit fabric."

The style is simple enough to knit (all boxy shapes) and one feels could be adapted to larger sizes. However the real issue here will be choosing an appropriate yarn; the pattern indicates it is mostly knitted in a bouclé yarn knitted double and yet the resulting tension seems relatively fine (over the pattern stitch).

Instructions.

The DK is used singly throughout and the Bouclet is used double with either one ball of white together with one ball of black or two balls of black, as stated in the pattern instructions.

Back

With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet held together, cast on 142 sts fairly loosely and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit in double boucle.
2nd row: Knit in double boucle.
3rd row: Join in DK.
* Slip 2 purlways, k3 in DK; repeat from * to last 2 sts, slip 2 purlways.
4th row: * Slip 2 purlways, p3 in DK; repeat from * to last 2 sts, slip 2 purlways.
5th row: As first row
6th row: As first row.
7th row: * k2 in DK, slip 3 purlways; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2 in DK.
8th row: * p2 DK; slip 3 purlways: repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2 DK.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 14½ inches at centre. Place a coloured thread at each end of the row here to mark the start of the armholes as no actual shaping is done.

Continue straight in pattern until back measures 24½ inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next 10 rows; cast off remainder.

Pocket linings (make 2 the same)

Begin by making pocket linings.
With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet, cast on 32 sts and work about 2½, inches straight in pattern, ending with a row on the wrong side; leave sts on a spare needle. Make another the same.

Left Front:

With No 9 needles and black and white bouclet held together, cast on 82 sts and work 2½ inches straight in pattern ending with same pattern row as the pocket lining. Here start pocket opening.

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 15 sts; (slip last 67 sts on a spare needle or a needle holder for the time being); pattern across 32 sts of one of the pocket linings [47 sts]

Work 5½ inches straight in pattern on these 47 stitches, ending with a row on the right side of the work.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 32 fairly loosely and pattern to end; leave these 15 sts on a second spare needle or a needle holder.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to the remaining 67 sts.
Continue straight in pattern on these 67 sts for 5½ inches ending with same pattern row as the 15 sts on the spare needle.

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 15 sts on spare needle, then on to the same needle pattern across the last 67 sts [82 sts]

Continue straight in pattern over all stitches until front matches back to
start of armholes. Thread a coloured marker as before. Continue straight in pattern until front measures 22 inches.
With wrong side facing, continue in pattern and shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at this edge on the next, and every following row, 32 times.

Then keep the neck edge straight, and at the same time, when front
matches back at side edge, with right side facing, shape shoulder, by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next and following 4 alternate rows, (this is the armhole edge).

Right Front:

Work as for the left, reversing all shapings and making
5 buttonholes up the front edge. The first to come about 3 inches
from the lower edge, and the 5th about inch below front of neck shaping - the remainder evenly spaced between.
Mark the position of the buttons on left front with pins to ensure even spacing, then work the holes to correspond.

To make a buttonhole:
With the right side facing, pattern 3, cast off 4, pattern to end.
On the next row pattern up to the cast off sts and cast on 4 over those cast off in previous row; pattern to end.

For the right front, your 1st row of the pocket shaping will read:

Next row (right side facing): pattern across 67 sts and slip on a spare needle or a needle holder for the time being. With right side
facing, pattern across 32 sts of the remaining pocket lining, then pattern
across 15 sts from main work. [47 sts]

Finish to correspond with left front reversing the instructions in line with the above.

Sleeves:

With No 12 needles and double black bouclet, cast on 62 sts and work 1½ inches k1, p1 rib.

Break off 1 ball of black and join in 1 ball of white bouclet.
Change to No 9 needles and pattern as for back, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 4th row until there are 136 sts , taking extra the extra sts into the pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 15½ inches.

Cast off right across fairly loosely.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

With right side facing, No 12 needles and double black bouclet, begin at right shoulder seam and pick up and knit 42 sts across back of neck, * turn and rib back, picking up and purling 4 sts from side of neck at end of row; turn and rib back, picking up and knitting 4 sts from
side of neck at end of row; repeat from * 6 times more. [98 sts]

Rib to end of row; cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert sleeves neatly between markers.

Face both front edges on wrong side with ribbon, turning under 1 stitch of the knitting as you do so and taking care not to stretch the knitting. Cut holes in the ribbon to correspond with those in the knitting, then oversew around the holes with matching sewing cotton.

The original pattern intended for you to cover button moulds with rounds of single black bouclet in double crochet, drawing crochet
together at back of button. Otherwise use purchased buttons of an appropriate size.
Sew on buttons and press studs - one at neck, the other at lower edge.

With right side facing, No 12 needles and double black bouclet, pick up and knit 26 sts down front piece of each pocket slit.
Cast off.
Catch down to main work at corners; catch down pocket linings.

Press all seams.

Materials

Double Knitting: 11 ozs in white;
Bouclet yarn: 13 ozs in black and 11 ozs white.

[Editor's note: Please see "A word on the wool".]

A pair each No 9 (3¾mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.

A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

Five large buttons (or button moulds to cover)

2 press fasteners

11 yards 2 inch wide black ribbon.

Tension

24 stitches to 4 inches over the pattern.

Size matters

To fit 35-37 inch bust; length from top of shoulders: 25 inches; sleeve seam: 15½ inches.

Abbreviations

sl 1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A word on the wool...

The original yarn was a fine bouclé knitting to a 4 ply tension - and almost 100% wool. The striking style of the coat is created using the yarn double with black and white together to create a tweed effect.
It is possible to get fine loopy yarns if you search - possibly on cones for machine knitting. You could also substitute with a slightly fluffy yarn - Phildar and Pingouin used to do a slightly fuzzy 4 ply.

If you hate knitting double you might find a loopy tweed DK or worsted yarn which knits to the right tension. But you will need to find it in a solid version to match (because some parts of the pattern are knitted in black bouclet alone) - as well as the toning DK smooth yarn.

In substituting you will have to gauge how much yarn to buy based on your own judgement. The number of ounces of an obsolete yarn with no yardage provided is of little help.

Whatever you choose - knit a swatch!

TweedCoat2.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

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