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January 2022

Set Up for the Cold

SetUpForTheCold.jpg

A "long, long" scarf worked in bands of stripes and jacquard pattern, with a matching pull-on hat and gloves to complete the set. These are all knitted in a lighter weight yarn, but the scarf is double thickness so will be very snug; it's also pretty long, so check that's what you want, as obviously you can make it to whatever length you like.

Instructions

The scarf is worked on 4 needles in the round to make a tube, which is then flattened; the result is a flat scarf with two layers of knitted fabric, and means you don't have to worry about seeing the "wrong side" of the knitting. This is a standard way to make - especially commercial - scarves. Although often seen made in the round, both the hat and the gloves are worked flat on two needles, with a seam making them into the required round shape. It would be simple enough to adapt this pattern and make the hat in the round, especially as you have the method given for the scarf. If this is your first attempt at gloves, however, making them flat may be a good way to start.

Scarf

Using the set of 4 No 10 (3¼mm) needles - or the circular needle - cast on 112 sts in Main Shade (A).
Work in rounds of stocking stitch (every round knit).

Pattern as follows:

**
1st and 2nd rounds: using B knit.
3rd and 4th rounds: using A knit.
5th and 6th rounds: using C knit.
7th and 8th rounds: using D knit.
9th and 10th rounds: using E knit.
11th - 23rd rounds: follow the 13 row pattern given in scarf chart 1.
24th - 33rd rounds: repeat rows 1-10.
**
34th - 46th rounds: follow the 13 row pattern given in scarf chart 2.

These 46 rounds form the pattern.
Repeat these rounds 10 times more, then the 1st to the 33rd rounds again.

Cast off using A.

To make up the Scarf

Darn in all ends on the wrong side.
Press gently under a damp cloth using a warm iron.
Turn the scarf right side out.
Cut yarn A into 20½ cm (8 inch) lengths. Taking 3 strands together, knot fringe through both thicknesses of both short ends at 1½ cm (½ inch) intervals.
[Editor's note: The scarf is a knitted tube, and you are now flattening it (to make the scarf double thickness); you then attach the fringe to each straight end, through both edges - which also serves to close the ends of the tube instead of sewing them together (but you might want to sew them anyway).]
Trim the fringe.


Hat

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles, and main shade A, cast on loosely 144 stitches. Work 20 rows K1/P1 rib, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the last row. [145 sts]
Change to No 11 (3mm) needles. Continue in stocking stitch with the same pattern as given for the scarf but knitting back and forth in rows, not in the round. Work from ** to **, with every alternate row being purl. Then continue, repeating rows 1 - 10 only throughout.

Continue in pattern until work measures 18cm (7 inches) from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape the crown

Decrease for the crown, keeping the continuity of the striped pattern:
1st decrease row: k5, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k9) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k5. [121 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
2nd decrease row: k4, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k7) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k4. [97 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
3rd decrease row: k3, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k5) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k3. [73 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
4th decrease row: k2, (sl1, k2tog, psso, k3) 11 times; sl1, k2tog, psso, k2. [49 sts]
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch without shaping.
5th decrease row: (k2tog, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2tog) 7 times. [21 sts]
Purl one row.
Next row: (sl1, k2tog, psso) 7 times.
Break off yarn, and thread through remaining stitches; draw up and fasten off.

To make up the Hat

Press as given for the scarf.
Join the centre back seam, taking care to reverse the seam on brim (which folds back).
Fold the brim in half to the right side.


Gloves

Note: When working the gloves, use separate balls of yarn for the palm and thumb, twisting the yarns at the back of the work when changing colours.

Right hand glove

Using No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade A, cast on 56 stitches.
Work 26 rows k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 11 (3 mm) needles, and beginning with a knit row work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Start thumb shaping:

1st row: using first ball of B, k28; using A, increase one stitch in each of the next 2 stitches, k1; using a 2nd ball of B, k25.
2nd row: using B, p25; using A, p5; using B, p28.
3rd row: using A, knit to end.
4th row: using A, purl to end.
5th row: using C, k28; using A, increase in the next stitch, k2, increase in the next stitch, k1; using C, K25.
6th row: using C, p25; using A, p7; using C, p28.
7th row: using D, k28; using A, k7; using D, k25.
8th row: using D, p25; using A, p7; using D, p28.
9th row: using E, k28; using A, increase in the next stitch, k4, increase in the next stitch, k1; using E, k25.
10th row: using E, p25; using A, p9; using E; p27, increase in the last stitch. [63 sts including 9 thumb sts]

Continue in pattern as given for chart, increasing the thumb stitches as before on the 3rd and then every foil 4th row until the 24th row has been completed, decreasing one stitch at the end of the last row.

Thumb:

Next row: using B, k28; using A, k16 stitches; turn and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: using A, p18 stitches; turn and cast on 2 stitches. [20 sts]
***
Beginning with a knit row, work 18 rows in stocking stitch.

[Editor's note: For this method you keep all the stitches on the needles as you work the thumb and each finger separately. At this point for the thumb, you keep 28 stitches unworked on the right hand needle, and 25 stitches unworked on the left hand needle, while you work on the centre 16 stitches (which you have increased to 20 by casting on 2 extra stitches on each side. You knit the thumb flat, back and forth up to the tip, then you fasten off and sew it up into the thumb shape.]

Shape top:
Next row: (k2tog, k2) 5 times.
Next row: purl to end.
Next row: (k2tog) 7 times, k1.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
Join seam.

With right side of work facing and using B, knit up 4 stitches from the base of the thumb, knit to end. [57 sts]
[Editor's note: With right side facing, you have 28 stitches already on the right hand needle; you rejoin the yarn at the centre where the thumb is, and start by picking up the 4 stitches that you cast on, which are now wrapped round to meet at the base of the thumb. You then knit the 25 stitches on the left hand needle. Don't worry if you end up with small holes showing at the base of the thumb, (or, later, the fingers) as you can pull them in later when you sew in the ends from the join.]
Beginning with a purl row work one row in B, 2 rows A, 2 rows C, 2 rows D, 2 rows E and 4 rows A, ending with a purl row.
Continue in A only.

Divide for fingers:

1st finger
Next row: k36, turn and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Beginning with a knit row, work 24 rows in stocking stitch on these 18 stitches.

Shape top:
**
Next row: (k2, k2tog) 4 times, k2. [14 sts]
Next row: purl to end.
Next row: (k2 tog) 7 times.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
**
Join seam.

2nd finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 1st finger, k7, turn, and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn, and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Beginning with a knit row, work 28 rows in stocking stitch.
Complete to match first finger, working from ** to **.
Join seam.

3rd finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 2nd finger, k7, turn, and cast on one stitch.
Next row: p17, turn, and cast on one stitch. [18 sts]
Complete to match 2nd finger.
Join seam.

4th finger
With right side of work facing, knit up 2 stitches from the base of the 3rd finger, k6.
Beginning with a purl row, continue in stocking stitch across all remaining stitches for 19 rows.

Shape top
Next row: (k2, k2tog) 3 times, k2.
Next row: p to end.
Next row: (k2tog) 5 times, k1.
Break off yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off.
***

Left hand glove

Work as given for right hand glove, reversing the pattern and the position of thumb as follows:

1st row: using 1st ball of B, k25; using A, increase one stitch in each of
the next 2 stitches, k1; using 2nd ball of B, k28.

Continue as given for right hand glove until 24th row of pattern has been completed.

Thumb

Next row: using B, k24; using A, k16, turn and cast on 2 stitches.
Next row: using A, p18, turn and cast on 2 stitches.

Complete as given for right hand glove working from *** to ***.

To make up

Press as given for scarf.
Join side seam and 4th finger seam.

Materials

25g balls of 4 ply (fingering) yarn:

Scarf: 4 balls in main shade A
5 balls in contrast B
4 balls in contrast C
2 balls in contrast D
2 balls in contrast E

One set of 4 3¼mm (UK 10) double pointed needles (dpn), or a circular needle.

Hat and gloves:
3 balls in main shade A
1 ball in each of the contrast colours B, C, D, and E.

One pair of 3mm (UK 11), and one pair of 2¾mm (UK 12) needles

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch on 3¼ mm needles.

Size matters

Scarf: 20½ cm (8 inches) wide, by 183cm (72 inches) long, excluding the fringe
Hat: to fit an average adult head.
Gloves: to fit an average adult hand.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

increase: by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard 4 ply superwash wool; about 92 yards (84 m) per 25g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

February 2015

Nice and Easy ... hat and scarf

NiceNEasyHat2.jpg

This is the month for the Sailor's Society** "woolly hat week" (8th-14th February 2015). So I thought I would post this hat and scarf combination - easy to knit in 4 ply fingering weight knitting yarn - perhaps suitable for a sailor if you omit the pom-pom decoration!

You can find other patterns as well as where to send your hats on their website link above. Also see my previous POM from 2008 with other chunky hat patterns - including my all time favourite appropriately knitted in Fisherman's rib.

Here's what Hannah says: "Our international network of port chaplains and ship visitors give your amazing hats out to seafarers visiting port, while others are wrapped and included in the Christmas welfare parcels that are taken on board ship for the festive season. The need for more hats is ever-increasing! Drew, our Port Chaplain in Invergordon, has been known to give out 500 in a day on occasion!"

Instructions

Panels of moss stitch and flag stitch are used for this cosy scarf and pull on hat. The scarf is fringed and the hat trimmed with a large pom-pom.

Scarf

Cast on 72 sts
1st row (right side): * (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p7; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
2nd row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k6, p2; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
3rd row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k3, p5; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
4th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k4, p4; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
5th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k5, p3; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
6th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, k2, p6; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.
7th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k7, p1; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (k1, p1) 4 times.
8th row: * (p1, k1) 4 times, p8; repeat from * to last 8 sts; (p1, k1) 4 times.

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until scarf measures 167½ cm (66 inches) from beginning, (or however long you want the scarf to be) ending with an 8th pattern row.

Cast off.

To make up the Scarf

Do not press.
Cut yarn into 30½ cm (12 inch) lengths. Taking 3 strands together, knot fringe into every alternate stitch along cast on and cast off edges.

Hat

Cast on 144 stitches.

Work in pattern as given for scarf, but without the moss stitch border on both sides. So set out your rows as follows:

1st row (right side): * (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p7; repeat from * end.
2nd row: * k6, p2; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k3, p5; repeat from * to end.
4th row: * k4, p4; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
5th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k5, p3; repeat from * to end.
6th row: * k2, p6; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.
7th row: * (k1, p1) 4 times, k7, p1; repeat from * to end.
8th row: * p8; (p1, k1) 4 times; repeat from * to end.

Continue until work measures 25½ cm (10 inches) from beginning, ending with an 8th pattern row.

Shape crown

Next row: * Moss st 8, k1, p2, ybk, sl 1, yfwd, p2tog, psso, p2; repeat from * to end of row. [126 sts]

Next row: * k4, p2, moss st 8; repeat from * to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 8, k2, sl 1, p2tog, psso, p1; repeat from * to end of row. [108 sts]

Next row: * k1, p3, moss st 8; repeat from * to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 8, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [90 sts]

Next row: Moss st to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 7, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [72 sts]

Next row: Moss st to end of row.

Next row: * Moss st 5, sl 1, k2tog, psso; repeat from * to end of row. [54 sts]

Continue decreasing in this way on every alternate row until 18 sts remain. Break off yarn, thread through sts, draw up and fasten off.

To make up the Hat

Do not press.
Join back seam reversing 7½ cm (3 inches) at lower edge.
Press seam lightly under a damp cloth with a warm iron.
Turn back brim.

Trim with a large pom-pom.

Materials

7 x 50g balls 4 ply (fingering) yarn.

One pair 3¾ mm (UK 9) needles.
[Editor's note: If you can't find 3¾ mm needles then you can use 3½ mm .]

Tension

26sts x 36 rows to 4 ins over moss stitch on 3¾ mm needles.

Size matters

Scarf: 28 cm (11 inches) wide, by 167½ cm (66 inches) long, excluding fringe
Hat: to fit average adult head, width round crown 56 cm (22 inches).

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

p2tog: purl 2 sts together.

ybk: put yarn to back of work.

yfwd: put yarn to front of work.

sl 1: slip 1 stitch

sl 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1 / k2tog / p2tog, pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 1 stitch).

sl 1, k2tog (p2tog), psso: slip 1, k2tog, (p2tog), pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 2 sts).

moss stitch: knit alternate sts k1/p1 but place the knit stitch over a purl in the row below and the purl stitch over a knit stitch. (Also called "seed stitch").

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard 4 ply

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

NiceNEasyHat3.jpg

** Please note that the Sailors Society does seem to be a religious organisation, which I mention not through any disapproval on my part, but in case you would care to look at their website and ensure its aims do not go against anything you believe in.

January 2014

Stormcheater

Stormcheater.jpg

Another scarf/hood combination from the 1940s that is the partner of last year's pattern. It has a firm headband to frame the face, and a pocket construction at the back (see photo below) to keep that forties hairdo in good shape. The scarf ties are double thickness.

The Back with elastic casing:

Cast on 300 stitches
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: K3tog, knit to the last 3sts k3tog.
4th row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until 108sts remain.
Proceed as follows:
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: Slip 1, k1, * wool to front, slip 1 purlways, wool to back, k1; repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat the 3rd row 4 times.
8th row: Slip 1, k2tog, wfd;* k1, wool to front, slip 1 purlways, wool to back; repeat from * to the last 3sts; k1, wfd k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd Row 3 times.

12th row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
Cast off.

The Head Piece:

Cast on 300 stitches
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
3rd row: K3tog, knit to the last 3sts k3tog.
4th row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until 108sts remain.
Proceed as follows:

1st row: K2tog, knit to the last 2sts k2tog.
2nd row: K2tog, purl to the last 2sts k2tog.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows until 68sts remain.
Cast off.

The Border:

Cast on 120sts.
1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 11 times; the 2nd row twice; then the 1st and 2nd rows 12 times.
Cast off.

To Make Up the Stormcheater

Press each piece separately on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Sew the cast on edge of the back to the cast on edge of the head piece.
Commencing at this seam, sew the shaped side edges together for 14½ inches.
Fold back the cast on edge of the border to the centre (the knit row on the wrong side of the work formed by the purl row on the right side of the work); place a roll of cotton wool under this fold then sew the cast on edge to the last purl row before the knit row.
Fold back the cast off edge, pad with cotton wool to form a second roll and sew in position to correspond.
Place the open end of one padded rollover the other open end and sew both ends together.
Sew this end of the roll to the edge of the head piece opposite the elastic casing.
Sew the other ends of the padded rolls in the same manner and sew to the other side of the head piece opposite the elastic casing.
Sew the shaped edge of the head piece to the seam of the padded rolls.
Thread elastic through the casing on the back and sew in position at the ends.
Sew the edges of the elastic casing to the seam at the ends of the padded rolls.
Press all seams.

Materials

4 ozs 3ply wool.

One pair No 10 (3¼mm) knitting needles.

9½ inches elastic.
Cotton wool for padding.

Tension

Approx. 32sts to 4 inches on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Abbreviations

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
wfd: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

A word on the wool

Original knitted in Sirdar Majestic 3-ply Wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

January 2013

Fair-Isle Hooded Scarf

HoodedScarf3.jpg

A lovely warm idea that has never lost its popularity: a scarf/hood combination. This has an interesting construction with the scarf being double sided, and the hood being more a like a pocket with the intention that it should form soft folds when worn. [I'm more used to a pixie hood type design with a centre back seam].

Hood Scarf:

Using the main colour wool (MC) cast on 108 sts.

1st row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
2nd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 9 times more.

** Join in the first contrast (B) and working the 1st and 2nd rows as shown on the chart proceed as follows:

1st row: * Knit 2MC, 3B, 3MC, 3B, 1MC, repeat from * to end of row. Break off first contrast (B) and join in the second contrast (Y).
2nd row: * Purl lY, 3MC, 3Y, 3MC, 2Y, repeat from * to end of row. Break off second contrast (Y).



Commencing with the 3rd, row proceed as shown on the chart, changing the colours when necessary, until the 15th row has been worked.
Break off contrast B.

1st row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
2nd row: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
3rd row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.
**

Repeat from ** to ** twice.

Continue in stocking stitch until the work measures 40 inches
from the beginning, ending on the wrong side of the work.
Repeat from ** to ** 3 times.

Work 18 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off.
Press on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Fold the scarf in half lengthways. Sew up the seam for 16 inches, leave 16 inches open to form the hood, sew up the remainder of the seam.
[Editor's note: The scarf is a tube which you press flat to make a double thickness scarf, and the hood is formed by leaving the tube open, so the hood is single thickness.]

Hood Border:

Work a border along one 16 inch side of the hood opening as follows:
With the wrong side of the work facing, using the Main Colour wool and commencing 2 inches from the seam, pick up and knit 108 sts. evenly along the next 12 inches (ending 2 inches from the other seam).
[Editor's note: I know - it seems like you are knitting on the wrong side - but the border is folded back - so it's all OK.]

Next row (right side): Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Join in the second contrast B and working the 1st and 2nd rows as shown on the chart, proceed as follows:

1st row: * Knit 2MC, 3B, 3MC, 3B, 1MC, repeat from * to end of row. Break off first contrast (B) and join in the second contrast (Y).
2nd row: * Purl lY, 3MC, 3Y, 3MC, 2Y, repeat from * to end of row. Break off second contrast (Y).

Commencing with the 3rd row, proceed as shown on the chart, changing the colours when necessary, until the 15th row has been worked.
Break off first contrast (B)
Next row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch k1.

Proceed as follows:
Next row: Slip 1, k1, * pl, k.l, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat the this row once.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up the Scarf.

Sew the ends of the scarf together on the wrong side.
Place the corners of the border to the seam and sew the edges of the border to the 2-inch openings.
Turn back the border and catch-stitch in the centre to hold the border in position.
Using a No 12 Crochet Hook and main shade with the right side of the work facing, work 1 row of double crochet evenly along the other 16 inch side of the hood opening. Using the coloured wools make a mixed fringe at the ends of the scarf.
Press all seams.

Materials

5 ozs 3ply in main shade plus "medium-sized" balls in each of four contrast colours eg blue, yellow, green and pink.

One pair No 9 (3¾ mm) knitting needles.
One No. 12 (2½ mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Approx. 30sts to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

Width round face edge is 16 inches.
Length of scarf (excluding fringe) is 48 inches.

A word on the wool

Original knitted in Sirdar Majestic 3-ply Wool

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

February 2010

Fringed Yoke

Knitted in a light weight yarn and originally designed in the 1950s to wear under or over a sweater with a lower neckline. The original is a "fringed cable yoke" (in case you want to show it off over the sweater) but I have omitted the fringing; I wear it as a convenient alternative to a scarf. The yarn I used is more a 4ply than a 3ply weight so my version is very slightly bulkier and longer than the original.

Instructions.

Cables are worked as follows:

Cable 8: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k4, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 7: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 6: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 5: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 4: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k2 from cable needle.
Cable 3: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k1, then k2 from cable needle.

Now begin the yoke, which is worked in one piece.

Cast on 288 sts fairly loosely and work in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): P4, * k8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
2nd row: K4, * p8, k8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 3 times more.

9th row: P4, * cable8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
10th row: as 2nd row.
11th row: as 1st row.
12th row (decrease row): K4, * p8, k3, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4. [271 sts]
13th row: P4, * k8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
14th row: K4, * p8, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.
15th and 16th rows: as 13th and 14th rows.
17th row: P4, * cable8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
18th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, p2tog, p3, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p3, k2tog, p3, k4. [253 sts]

Work 5 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

24th row (decrease row): K4, * p7, k3, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p7, k4. [236 sts]
25th row: P4, * cable7, p6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, cable7, p4.

Work 4 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

30th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, k2tog, p2, k6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p3, p2tog, p2, k4. [218 sts]

Work 2 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

33rd row: P4, * cable6, p6; repeat from * to last 10 sts, cable6, p4.

Work a further 2 rows straight keeping pattern as before.

Continue thus, working a cable on every 8th row from previous cable, at the same time decreasing alternately in the knit and then in the purl panels, that is: decrease 1 stitch in each of the 15 knit panels on next row, then 1 stitch in each of the 17 purl panels on the following 6th row, omitting the 4 border stitches at each end.

Repeat these 2 decrease rows with 5 rows straight between each and always keeping continuity of cable rib pattern until you have worked 10 decrease rows in all, when 113 sts remain and 3 sts remain in each of the knit and purl panels with the 4 border stitches at each end.

Work a further 4 rows straight.

Next row: P4, * cable3; repeat from * to last 7 sts., cable 3, p. 4.

Work a further 5 rows straight in rib, then work another row cabling across the 3 knit stitches as before. Repeat last 6 rows until work measures 8 inches, then work a further 2 rows in rib.

Cast off.

To work the buttonholes:
With crochet hook, work 3 rows of double crochet down left side of opening, then 3 rows down right side, making 8 small button loops in 3rd row. Fasten off.

Optional fringing:
Cut 2 strands of wool each 3 inches long, fold in half and knot through every alternate stitch of cast-on edge. Now take last 2 strands from one knot together with first 2 from next knot and knot these 4 together to form trellis fringe as shown in photograph. Trim fringe evenly. Sew on buttons. Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.

To Make Up

Sew in all ends.
Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 ozs. Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. **

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
[Editor's note: You can use a circular needle here but knit backwards and forwards.]
A cable needle.
A No 13 (2¼mm) crochet hook.
8 small buttons.

Tension

Original yarn knits 34sts x 42 rows to four inches over stocking stitch on No 12 needles.

Substitute yarn knits 27sts x 38 rows to four inches on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

One size. Depth: 8 inches, excluding fringe.

**A word on the wool.

I used a vintage Phildar yarn called Anouchka (80% acrylic 16%, mohair, 4% wool), in a bright red. It knits to a tension of 27sts x 38 rows on 2½mm needles, and I used No 13 (2¼mm) regardless of tension.

Crochet

Double crochet in the UK is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2008

Seaside Caps

CapPlain1.jpg CapPlain2.jpg

"Capped to catch the eye" in 1952. This cap can be "worn with a purpose on windy days for cliff-top walks or out at sea, or just for extra prettiness at any time". "Leave it plain or dot with beads" - and - "for teenagers only - roll up the brim in jaunty sailor style".
Luvvly.

Instructions.

Instructions are for 2 versions - one plain and one with striped brim.
Both crowns are worked the same.

Crown
Begin at centre crown. With number 11 hook, make 4 chain, join in a ring with slip stitch. Work 6 dc through centre of ring.
In all following rounds, work through the back loop only of each dc to get a ridged effect, and mark the start of each round with coloured thread to check increasings.
[Editor's note: You just weave a piece of coloured thread between the last and first sts of each round such that you can just pull it out when you have finished.]

1st Round: * 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * 1 dc in 1 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [18 dc]
3rd Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) twice, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [24 dc]
4th Round: As 3rd round. [32 dc]

5th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) three times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [40 dc]
6th Round: As 5th round. [50 dc]

7th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) four times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [60 dc]
8th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) five times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [70 dc]
9th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) six times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [80 dc]
10th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) seven times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [90 dc]
11th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) eight times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [100 dc]

12th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) fourteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last 10 dc; (1 dc in 1 dc) ten times. [106 dc]
13th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) fourteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc; 1 dc in 1 dc. [113 dc]
14th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) fifteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc; 1 dc in 1 dc. [120 dc]
15th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) nineteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [126 dc]
16th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) twenty times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [132 dc]
17th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) twenty times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last 6 dc; (1 dc in 1 dc) six times. [138 dc]
18th Round: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.

19th-34th Round: As 18th round.

This completes the crown.

Striped Brim

With number 11 hook, and white yarn, make 23 chain, turn.

Miss 1 ch 1 dc in each of 22 ch.
Next Row: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.

††

Join in contrast.
Next Row: Miss 1 dc, * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc, 2 dc in last dc.
Next Row: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.Join in white.
Next Row: Miss 1 dc, * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc, 2 dc in last dc.
Next Row: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.
††

Continue repeating from †† to †† until strip fits all round the lower edge of the crown. Do not stretch this strip but allow it to fit comfortably. End with 2 rows of contrast colour. Fasten off.

Finishing:
Fasten off the crown section.
Join short ends of striped brim. Pin in position round edge of crown, right side of brim to right side of crown. Oversew neatly with matching cotton; fold brim in half, and slip stitch to edge of crown on wrong side.
Sew in ends.

Plain Brim

This is worked with the yarn doubled.
Join a second strand of yarn in with the crown section, and using a number 10 hook, work 9 rounds of dc, but always working through both front and back loops of each dc in the row below.
Finish off with a row of slip stitches, but take care not to do this too tightly or the brim will be too small.

Sew in ends and optionally embroider 5 rows of beads around the crown, as shown in the photograph.
[Editor's note: I omitted the beads. You can use any free format style here that you like - for example a collection of small buttons.]

Materials

Plain: 2 x 50g ball Phildar Phil Crochet, in white, (100% cotton, 201yards).
Optional assortment of coloured glass beads.

Striped: 1 x 50g ball
in main shade, (07 Veronese), with 1 x 50g ball of contrast (white).

3 balls (2 in white) made both hat versions.

Nos. 11 (3mm) and 10 (3¼mm) crochet hooks.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Tension

7 dc to an inch. Check the tension and your head measurement carefully; the original was made in angora which is more stretchy than pure cotton.
Note: these are UK crochet instructions - to work a double crochet: insert hook in next stitch, draw loop through, wool over hook, and draw through both loops.

Size matters

To fit "an average head". However, the hat size can vary quite a lot according to your tension.

A word on the wool.

Original specified 2 x ½oz balls of Patons Fuzzy Wuzzy Angora.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Striped-brim version, and modelled original:



I was so taken with the another seaside idea on the same page as the hat that I felt compelled to share it with you here as well.

Scarf on Holiday...


...to make a girl look prettier than ever




.....TIED AT THE BACK it makes a snug bolero....

As a change from the everlasting headsquare, buy a yard of rayon or silk - ours was a yard of spotted rayon at 5/6d,
[Editor's note: For you whipper snappers out there, that's 27½p or about 60 cents.]
but silk is best if you can afford it, as it's less slippery - cut it in half lengthways, join the short ends neatly, slip hem the long raw edges, and you have a manoueverable long stole, which can be worn in all sorts of ways and is so much prettier and smarter than a triangle tied under your chin.
[Editor's note: I'm with them on that one.]





AS A CARDIGAN - round your shoulders, ends tucked up and over your belt in two comfortable pockets.

Carry it around on holiday and it will be a godsend for those chilly moments, and less bother to carry than a cardigan. Tie it round tyour waist as a sash when you don't want to carry it.

February 2008

Chunky Honeycomb Scarf

Honeycomb_scarf2.jpg

"Reversible scarf for the cold days ahead". This is a very pleasing pattern from October 1963, and is a suggestion for "pre-Christmas plans". The pattern is the same on both sides, so great for a scarf, and can be knitted in basically any wool weight; ensure you use needles a couple of sizes larger than normal for whichever weight you choose, and do a proportional calculation on the gauge, so your scarf is not too wide.

Instructions

Cast on 73 stitches.

First row: K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat this row for the moss stitch border 8 times more.

10th (increase) row: Moss 8, (increase in the next st, moss 6) 8 times; increase in the next st, moss 8. [82 sts]

Change to pattern rows as follows:

1st row: moss 5, p3, *k6, p6; repeat from * to last 14sts; k6, p3, moss 5.
2nd row: moss 5, k3, *p6, k6; repeat from * to last 14sts; p6, k3, moss 5.
Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more.

11th row: moss 5; *slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the back of the work; k3, p3 from cable needle; slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the front of the work; p3, then k3 from cable needle; repeat from * to last 5sts; moss 5.
12th row: as first.
13th row: as second.
14th row: as first.
Repeat the 13th and 14th rows 4 times more.

23rd row: moss 5; *slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the front of the work; p3, then k3 from cable needle; slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the back of the work; k3, p3 from cable needle; repeat from * to last 5sts; moss 5.
24th row: as second.

These 24 rows form the pattern. Continue straight until the work measures 46 ins, ending with a 12th or 24th pattern row.

detail

Next (decrease) row: moss 8 *k2tog; (p1, k1) 3 times; p2tog, repeat from * 3 times more; k2tog; (p1, k1) 4 times. [73sts].

Work 9 rows moss stitch over all stitches.
Cast off.

Finishing - Press work very lighty, taking care not to spoil th texture of the patttern. Cut the remainig wool into 7½ inch lengths; take 3 lengths of wool together each time, fold in half, and, with a crochet hook, knot through short ends to make a fringe. Trim fringe.

Substituting the wool - I used a vintage wool, Phildar Brisants. This is a fine double knitting, which is normally knitted on no. 9 (3¾mm) needles. The cabling make for a tighter tension, and the recommended needles (UK No 6) are 2 sizes larger than usual for a DK. I went with no. 8 needles, instead of 9s, but should have gone larger I think.
My scarf measures less than the 12 inches wide of the original; I knitted to the length I wanted.

If you want to use chunkier wool, then decrease the number of sts proportionally. The pattern is worked over 12sts.

Materials

Original call for 9oz of Patons Moorland Double Knitting

Example shown is knitted in Phildar Brisants.

One pair of No. 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

Equivalent to 20st and 26rows to 4 inches (10cm) measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width: 12 inches
Length: 46 inches

A word on the wool.

This pattern is for double knitting wool, and from memory Moorland DK was slightly heavy-weight.
You can knit a scarf in anything you want - obviously - see "Substituting the wool".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

Honeycomb_scarf.jpg

May 2007

Cobweb Fichu

fichu.jpg

Pattern from 1955 described as a "lacy head scarf for evening wear". This is a charming fichu, for evening, or indeed day wear, depending on your choice of yarn type.

I don't know about you, but I try not to wear head scarves in the evening; in fact I try not to wear them ever. I took against them in the 1970s - something to do with the image of the Royal Family - o, and they make me look like an extra from an Edinburgh Fringe production of Mother Courage.
Hopefully, however, this one will make us all look like Grace Kelly.

Instructions

Begin at the widest part. With No. 11 (the larger) hook make 260 chain, very loosely.

Row 1: Miss 1ch, * 1dc in next ch, 7ch, miss 5ch; repeat from * to last chain; 1dc in last ch; turn.
Row 2: 4slip sts in next 4ch, * 7ch, 1dc in centre of next 7ch loop; repeat from* to end, turn.

Continue, repeating 2nd row, thus decreasing one trellis pattern on every row, until only one trellis pattern remains to be worked in the centre.
Fasten off.

flower.jpg Flower border - With No. 12 (the smaller) hook make 12 chain, and join in a ring with a slip st.

First round: 3ch. (this counts as one dbl tr), work 26 dbl trs through centre of ring, and join to top of he 3ch with a slip st.
Second round: * 16ch, 1ss into 10th ch from hook, 6ch, miss 2 dbl trs, 1 ss into next dbl tr. Repeat from * to end. Fasten off.
[Editor's note: Don't forget this is a UK crochet pattern, and these are UK dbl trs; if in doubt, link to "Terminology" in the side bar.]

Make 14 more in the same way.

Making up - Press lighty on the wrong side under a damp cloth.

Make a long strip of flowers by joining (sewing) the tip of one petal of one flower to the adjoining tip of petal of another flower.

Join this strip to sloping sides of main part - seven petals along each side, and one at the top of the triangle; catch the tips of two petals of each flower to the main work to secure the border.

Give a final press, pinning out the flower points.

[Editor's note: I experimented, adding a pearlised bead suspended in the centre of each of the flowers; it looks very pretty and follows the current fashion for applied beading - however the "nude" versions retain a certain delicacy without further adornment.]

Materials

Original pattern calls for a ½oz ball of "Fine Ply".

Example in hand-painted cobweb lace wool (100m skeins about 9g) purchased from Alchemy Fibre Arts eBay shop.

Numbers 11 (3mm) and 12 (2.5mm) crochet hooks.

Tension

One trellis pattern measures ¾in on no. 11 hook.

Size

Approximately 36 inches at the widest part.

A word on the wool.

There were quite a few patterns for very fine scarves and shawls in cobweb wools, and as their name suggests they are very fine gauge.
You could knit this in other yarn weights - for example, Rowan Kidsilk Haze - and simply produce a fichu of a different (larger) size.

Now you have the taste for chic yet casual evening wear in adaptable crochet, I expect you'll want to embark on a larger project (such as the one below) to extend your skills. Let me know if you need the pattern.

retro_outfit.gif

© Christina Coutts 2007

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