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Archive entry for April 2014

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April 2014

Bunny suits

BunnySuits.jpg

Cute little sweaters with rabbit motifs. Also supplies a pattern for a skirt and little shorts.

"Small girls and boys will love these Bunny Rabbit sets. Hers has a cute flared skirt, and his, neat little trousers. We knitted them in vivid red and white for tough wear."

Instructions.

Instructions for one size given for jumper, cardigan, shorts, and skirt.

Jumper

Front

**
With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R) cast on 86 stitches and work 15 rows in k1/p1 rib, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.

[Editor's note: I used to work twisted rib a little differently to the one described here. I would knit into the back of the knit stitches on right side rows, and purl into the back of the purl stitches on wrong side rows. This leads to very rigidly defined columns of knit stitches on the right side. It looks very attractive but it is less elastic than normal ribbing. ]

Change to No 10 (3¼mm).

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) and, joining in contrast white (W), work the two clour pattern rows 1-4 as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.
**

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work 4 rows stocking-stitch in R, starting with a knit row.
Before working the rabbit motifs, wind wool on to bobbins - 2 bobbins with W and 1 bobbin R. Join in a separate bobbin W for each rabbit and 1 R bobbin between.
Note: Twist wools on wrong side of work when changing colour to avoid a hole.

[Editor's note: You might need a second bobbin of red here - if you read later on they suggest you work with 3 bobbins as above and two balls of red - it depends which you find easier..]

Continue in stocking-stitch working from chart over the centre 44 stitches, reading odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.
Your first 2 rows will read :

1st row (right side facing): Knit 21 R.; work centre 44 stitches from chart thus: 4 R, join in W bobbin, 10 W, join in R bobbin, 16 R, join in 2nd bobbin W, 10W., join in a second ball R, 4 R; then knit remaining 21 R.
2nd row: Purl, 21 R; from chart 1R, 13W, 16R, 13W, 1R.; purl remaining 21R.
Continue in this way until 20th row of chart has been worked.
Break W.

With right side facing, continue in R over all stitches and work 4 rows stocking-stitch.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in W and work the two-colour pattern rows 1-4 as before. Break W.

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking-stitch in R, until front measures 8½ inches down centre.

With right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 4 stitches at the begining of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 66 stitches remain.

Work straight until front measures 11½ inches.

With right side facing, shape neck:

Next row: Knit 26; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 26 stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 16 stitches remain. Work a few rows straight until front measures 13 ins.

With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the begining of the next row, then 5 stitches at the begining of the following 2 alternate rows.

With right side facing, slip the centre 14 stitches on to a spare needle.
Rejoin wool to remaining 26 stitches and finish to correspond with the first side.

Back

Work as for front from ** to **
Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work 28 rows stocking-stitch in R, then change to No 0 (3¾mm) needles, and work two-colour rows 1-4 inclusive again. BreakW.
Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue straight in stocking-stitch in R until back matches front at side edge.
With right side facing, shape armholes as for front. [66 stitches]Work 2 rows straight.

With right side facing, divide for back opening.

Next row: Knit 33, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on first 33 stitches until back matches front at armhole edge.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
Leave remaining 17 stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining stitches, and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R) cast on 44 stitches and work 11 rows in k1/p1 rib, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm).

Next row: Knit, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row.
Next row: Purl.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in W, and work two-colour pattern rows 1-4 inclusive again. Break W.

Change back to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and continue in stocking- stitch in R, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 60 stitches.
Work straight until sleeve seam measures 9 ins.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 32 stitches remain.
Purl 1 row.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 18 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Neck border

Join shoulder seams.
Using the set of No 11 (3mm) needles - or a circular needle - to facilitate working and main wool (R) wool, start at left side of back opening and with right side facing, k17 from spare needle, pick up and knit 15 stitches down left side of front, k14 from spare needle at centre, pick up and k15 stitches up right side, k17 from spare needle. [78 sts].

Working backwards and forwards (not in the round), continue as follows:

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and two-colour pattern.

1st row (wrong side facing): Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change back to No 11 (3mm) needles and work 7 rows stocking stitch in R, starting with a purl row. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Fold neck border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.

Buttonhole Band
With No 11 (3mm) needles, R wool, and right side facing, pick up and knit 30 stitches down right side of back opening.
1st row: Knit.
2nd row: * k2, wool forward, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit.
Cast off loosely.
Work.a row of double crochet in R down left side of opening.
Catch down border neatly to main work at start of opening.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
With black wool embroider eye and nose of each rabbit as illustrated.
Press all seams and neck border lightly.
Sew on buttons.

Trousers

Right Half

With No 11 (3mm) needles and main wool (R), cast on 82 stitches loosely and work 12 rows stocking-stitch, starting with knit row.

Make a hem on the next row by folding the work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from the needle together with 1 stitch from the cast-on edge all along.
Next row: Purl.

With right side facing, shape back as follows using short row shaping:

Next 2 rows: K10, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K20, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K30, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K40, turn and purl back.
Next 2 rows: K50, turn and purl back,
Next 2 rows: K60, turn and purl back.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and continue in stocking-stitch over all stitches, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th row until there are 94 stitches.

Work straight until front seam (short edge) measures 8 ins.

With right side facing, shape leg by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until 76 stitches remain.
Work 1 row straight.
With right side facing, change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and join in W.

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and work 9 rows stocking-stitch. Cast off loosely using a bigger needle.

Left Half

Work as for right half, reversing back shaping, i.e. having wrong instead of right side facing. Your first two rows will read :-
Purl 10, turn and knit back.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join back, front and leg seams, leaving waist hem open on back for elastic.
Turn back last 7 rows round each leg to wrong side and slip-hem lightly in position.
Press all seams and hems lightly.
Thread elastic through waist and sew up opening neatly.

Skirt

Back and front alike

With No 11 (3mm) needles and R wool, cast on 154 stitches loosely, and work 6 rows stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row.

Next 2 rows: Purl.
The last 2 rows form ridge for hemline.

Change to No 10 (3¼) needles and join in W.

1st row (right side facing): Knit: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: Purl: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Knit: * 1W, 1R; repeat from * to end.
4th row: Purl: * 1R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
Break white yarn.

Change back to No 11 (3mm) needles.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl.

Make a hem on next row by folding work in half, purl side inside, and knitting 1 stitch from needle together with 1 st. from cast-on edge all along.

Next row: Purl, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [155 sts]

With right side facing, shape as follows:

Next row (1st decrease row): K14, (slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k28) 4 times, slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k14. [145 sts]
Work 11 rows straight.

Next row (2nd decrease row): K13, (slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k26) 4 times, slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, k13. [135 sts]
Work 11 rows straight.

Continue decreasing 10 stitches thus on next and every following 12th row until 6th decrease row has been worked, and 95 stitches remain.
Work 11 rows straight.

Now shape skirt by decreasing 10 stitches as before but on on next and following 6th row [75 sts].
Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 9½ inches down centre.
Next row (wrong side facing): P2tog, purl to end. [74 sts]

Change to k1/p1 rib and work 1 inch, knitting into the back of each knit stitch on every row to form a twisted rib.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Press work lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing at waistband.
Join side seams. Cut elastic to fit waist and join. Then sew in position inside waist ribbing using herring bone stitch for casing.
Press seams.

Materials

8ozs 4ply in Lipstick Red and 1oz in Snow White for either set.

Pair each No 11 (3mm), No 10 (3¼mm), and No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Set of 4 each No 11 (3mm),and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

No 12 (2½mm) crochet hook.

5 buttons

Length of ½-inch wide elastic to fit waist.

Small amount of black wool to embroider eyes and nose on motifs.

Bobbins for two-colour pattern. (For example EZ Bobs or make your own - instructions below)

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 3¼mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.
Jumper: To fit 23- 24 inch chest; length from top of shoulders 13 inches; sleeve seam 9 inches.
Shorts
: width round widest part, 27 inches; length of front seam 8 inches.
Skirt
: length, 10% inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Bunny Motif Chart


To Make a Bobbin

Cut shape from stiff cardboard as in the diagram above, 2.5 inches deep and 2.6 inches wide. Cut out the hole and cut a slit in the top. Wind the wool on to the bobbin as shown in the diagram on the right, and pass through the slit as many times as required.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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