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October 2017

Shetland folklore sweater

ShetlandFolkSweater.jpg

Lovely heathery shetland yarn sweater in a double knitting weight yarn. This is an example of early eighties "folklore style" but retaining classic shaping. [You can see the late seventies / eighties styling in the photo with the sweater worn tucked into pleated/gathered trousers].

Instructions.

Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.

When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

‡‡
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 107 [113, 119, 127, 133] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib rib for 2½ inches, (6cm), rows on right side having a k1 at each end and ending with wrong side facing
for next row.

Next row: Rib 8 [9, 9, 11, 11] m1; (rib 18 [19, 20, 21, 22], m1) 5 times, rib to end. (113 [119, 125, 133, 139] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and joining in and breaking off colours as required, work in pattern from chart A, repeating the 10 pattern stitches 11 [11, 12, 13, 13] times across, and working the first
1 [4, 2, 1, 4] stitches and the last 2 [5, 3, 2, 5] stitches on knit rows, and the first 2 [5, 3, 2, 5] stitches and the last 1 [4, 2, 1, 4] stitches on purl rows as indicated, until Back measures 17½ inches, (39cm), ending with the right side facing for the next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape armholes, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 5 rows, then on every alternate row until 89 [95, 101, 107, 113] stitches remain.
‡‡

Work straight in pattern until Back measures 22½ [23, 23½, 23½, 24] inches, (57 [58, 60, 60, 61]cm), ending with right side
facing for next row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 9 [9, 10, 11, 11] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 8 [10, 10, 10, 12] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave remaining 37 [39, 41, 43, 45] stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back from ‡‡ to ‡‡.

Work straight in pattern until 14 [14, 14, 16, 16] rows fewer than on Back have been worked before start of shoulder shaping, thus ending
with right side facing for next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape neck as follows:
Next row: Pattern 34 [36, 38, 40, 42] k2tog, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 35 [37, 39, 41, 43] stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 9 rows.
(26 [28, 30, 32, 34] sts).

Work 4 [4, 4, 6, 6] rows.

Shape shoulder by casting off 9 [9, 10, 11, 11] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 8 [10, 10, 10, 12] stitches.

With right side facing, slip centre 17 [19, 21, 23, 25] stitches on a length of yarn, or stitch holder, and rejoin appropriate colour to remaining stitches: k2tog, pattern to end.

Complete to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 49 [51, 53, 55, 57] stitches and work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches, (5cm), rows on right side having a kl at each end, and ending with wrong side facing for next
row.

Next row: Rib 6 [6, 7, 6, 7] m1; (rib 12 [13, 13, 14, 14], m1) 3 times; rib to end. (53 [55, 57, 59, 61] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and joining in and breaking off colours as required, work in pattern from chart B repeating the 10 pattern stitches 5 [5, 5, 5, 6] times across, and working first 1 [2, 3, 4, 0] stitches, and last 2 [3, 4, 5, 1] stitches on knit rows, and first 2 [3, 4, 5, 1] stitches and last 1 [2, 3, 4, 0] stitches on purl rows as indicated, shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 13th and every following 7th [7th, 7th, 7th, 6th] row until there are 75 [77, 81, 83, 87] stitches, taking the increased stitches into the pattern.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures approximately 17½ inches, (44cm), ending with the same pattern row as on Back before the start of the armhole shaping, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate
row until 43 [43, 47, 47, 51] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 27 stitches remain. Cast off.

Making Up

Omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.

Join right shoulder seam.
Make Neck Border:
With right side facing, No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, knit up 17 [17, 17, 19, 19] stitches down left side of neck, knit 17 [19, 21, 23, 25] stitches from centre front, knit up 17 [17, 17, 19, 19] stitches
up right side of neck, then knit 37 [39, 41, 43, 45] from back.
(88 [92, 96, 104, 108] sts).

Work in k1/p1 rib for 2 inches, (5cm).
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join left shoulder seam and Neck Border.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Insert Sleeves.
Fold Neck Border in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Press seams.

Materials

50g balls Shetland DK in main shade plus 5 contrasts:

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38, 40] inches, (81 [86, 91, 97, 102]cm);
length from top of
shoulders: 22½ [23,
23½, 23½, 24] inches, (57 [58, 60, 60, 61]cm);
sleeve seam: 17½ inches, (44cm), all sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

May 2015

Andy Pandy Romper

AndyPandyRomper.jpg

This is an adorable romper; the stripes are created by knitting garter stitch ridges sideways using contrast yarn. Pom-pom ties are used as fasteners at the shoulders.

After last months picture of the Andy Pandy puppet, how could I resist making this outfit.

Instructions

The romper is easy to knit, though - like exam questions - make sure you read the pattern and understand the pictures of the pieces clearly before you start.

Pattern stitches

Garter Stitch: every row knitted.
Stocking stitch: 1 row knit; 1 row purl.
Striped pattern: 4 rows in white in stocking stitch, 2 rows in blue in garter stitch (both rows knitted). Repeat these 6 rows to form the stripes.

Trouser legs

This section is worked sideways in one piece up to the armhole. Dotted lines in picture show the centre sides and the ankle borders.

Using 3mm needles and white yarn (A) , cast on 34 sts and knit 3 rows of striped pattern.

Next row (wrong side) : Cast on 47 sts and purl across these and to end of row. [81 sts]

Continue in striped pattern, shaping waist by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the 9th and every following 10th row until 77 sts remain.

Work straight until leg measures 23cm (9 inches) from the beginning, ending with wrong side facing.
[Editors note: this is about 87 rows; 14 blue ridges ending on row 3 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast off 47 sts and purl to end of row. [30 sts]

Work straight on these 30 sts for 2 cm (¾ inch) ending with wrong side facing.
[Editors note: this is about 9 rows; 2 more blue ridges ending on row 1 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast on 47 sts and purl across these and to end of row. [77 sts]

Work straight until section measures 36 cms (14¼ inches) from the beginning, ending with right side facing.

Start shaping the waist again by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every following 10th row until there are 81 sts.
[Editors note: From now on, you can judge where to start increasing and casting off by folding your piece at the centre and matching the stripes.]

Work straight until section measures 47 cms (18½ inches) from the beginning, ending with wrong side facing.
[Editors note: this is finishing on row 1 of the pattern.]

Next row (wrong side) : Cast off 47 sts and purl to end of row. [34 sts]

Work 2 rows stocking stitch in white (A).
Cast off.

Ankle Borders

With 2½mm needles and white yarn A, knit up 70 sts along lower edge of leg.

Next row: K1; (k2tog) 34 times; k1. [36 sts]

Now work in garter stitch for 2 cm (¾ inch).
Cast off.

Left Front

With 3mm needles and white yarn A throughout, cast on 53 sts and work 1 cm (½ inch) in garter stitch.

Next row (right side): Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: K4, sl 1, k2tog, psso, knit to end. [51 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Next row: K4, SL 1, k2tog, psso, knit to the last 6 sts; k2tog, k4.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: K4, SL 1, k1, psso, knit to end. [47 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Repeat these last 4 rows until 11 sts remain.

Next row: K3, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k3tog, k2. [7 sts]
Next row: K2, p3; k2.
Next row: K2, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k2. [5 sts]
Next row: K2, p1; k2.
Next row: K1, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k1. [3 sts]
Next row: K3.

Cast off.

Right Back

Work as for Left front.

Right Front

With 3mm needles and white yarn A throughout, cast on 53 sts and work 1 cm (½ inch) in garter stitch.

Next row (right side): Knit.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: Knit to the last 7 sts; k3tog, k4. [51 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Next row: K4, SL 1, k1, psso, knit to the last 7 sts; k3tog, k4.
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.
Next row: Knit to the last 6 sts; k2tog, k4. [47 sts]
Next row: K4, purl to last 4 sts; k4.

Rep these last 4 rows until 11 sts remain.

Next row: K2, SL 1, k2tog, psso, k3tog, k3. [7 sts]
Next row: K2, p3; k2.
Next row: K2, k3tog, k2. [5 sts]
Next row: K2, p1; k2.
Next row: K1, k3tog, psso, k1. [3 sts]
Next row: K3.

Cast off.

Left Back

Work as for Right front.

Making Up

Join centre back seam and leg seams.

Placing left front over right front and right back over left back, sew bodice pieces to trousers.
[Editors note: It's not altogether clear what is meant by "left" and "right" here - both in the instructions and in the making up. Convention says that it means from the point of view of the person (or baby) wearing it. However the pictures imply that it is as you are looking at the romper. It does not matter of course - do what you like best - but be consistent. ]

Make twisted cords and small pom-poms, and attach to shoulders for fastenings.
[Editors note: You could use press studs here - the sort that you apply with a gripper tool - and add the pom-poms as the decoration (I actually sewed the shoulders together and adapted the leg opening - see below).]

Materials

2 x 50g ball yarn A (white),
1 x 50g ball yarn B (blue)

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.

Tension

22sts x 38 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch pattern on 3mm needles.

Use smaller or larger needles to obtain the correct tension.

Size matters

Instructions given for age 3 months.

Chest 42 cms,
(17 inches).

Abbreviations

k2tog/k3tog: knit 2 or 3 sts together.

yfwd, k2tog: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following 2 stitches together, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes an eyelet hole.

yrn, p2tog: yarn round needle - as yfwd but for purl stitches.

Sl 1: slip 1 stitch

Sl 1, k1/k2tog, psso: slip 1, knit 1/k2tog, pass the slipped stitch over, (you decrease 1 or 2 sts).

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was standard double knitting with good yardage of 126 yards (115 meters) - so you may need 3 balls of the main colour if substituting.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

AndyPandyRomper2.jpg

Adapting the leg seams

I think it is very awkward to put a small baby into trousers in the conventional way. Many of these vintage baby patterns from the 1980s have leg openings which I think are much more practical, so I adapted this pattern. I chose buttons but you can apply press studs if you think that is safer.

Instead of sewing the inside leg seams I picked up 111 stitches all around each side and knitted a few rows in 3 x 3 rib, working as follows:
Row 1: K3, *P3, K3; repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: P3, *K3, P3; repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat these last 2 rows once and cast off in rib

For the other side I inserted a button hole row:
Work rows 1 and 2 in rib as before.
Next (buttonhole) row: K3, (P1, yrn, P2tog), K3, P3; (K1, yfwd, K2tog);* P3, K3, (P1, yrn, P2tog), K3, P3; (K1, yfwd, K2tog); repeat from * once, (6 buttonholes worked), then,
P3, (K1, yfwd, K2tog), P3, (centre buttonhole worked), then,
(K1, yfwd, K2tog), P3, K3, (P1, yrn, P2tog), * K3, P3, (K1, yfwd, K2tog), P3, K3, (P1, yrn, P2tog); repeat from * once, K3.

Work row 2 again, then row one, and cast off in rib.

December 2014

Old Shale Angel

OldShaleAngelTop3.jpg

A really pretty top using the ubiquitous but nonetheless charming old shale (or old shell) stitch. Originally it was knitted in fine white cotton bands interspersed with a fine slightly fluffy yarn, giving it a summery feel. However - how charming it would be in red and white for a small person's party outfit at Christmas. I am not sure how I would arrange the colours for a winter version - I favour the dominant red colour for the plain garter stitch - but it might be interesting to have the white as the fluffy bands simulating fur trimming.

The pattern is for an entire outfit with pants, and some cute little cotton sandals (of dubious value...!).

Instructions for Angel Top

The angel top is worked in a combination garter stitch (every row knitted) and a Wave pattern using "old shale" (or shell) stitch.

When working the Wave pattern, carry the yarn not in use loosely up the side of the work.

Angel Top - main section

This section is worked in one piece up to the armhole.

Using 3mm needles and pink yarn (A) , cast on 192 sts and knit one row.

Continuing with yarn A begin Wave pattern as follows:

1st row (right side) : Knit.
2nd - 4th rows: Knit

Join in white yarn (B), working 5th - 14th rows in white:

5th row: Sl 1; * (k2tog) 3 times; (k1, yfwd) 6 times; k1; (k2tog) 3 times; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
6th row:
Purl.
7th row: Knit.
8th row: Purl.
9th - 14th rows: Repeat rows 5-8 once, then rows 5 and 6 again.

These 14 rows form the pattern,

Repeat the pattern 3 (4) times more, then work the 1st to 3rd rows again.

Divide for armhole:

Next row (wrong side): K57, increase in the next 2 sts, k74, increase in the next st, and leave these 137 sts on a stitch holder; increase in the next st, knit to end.

Continue on these remaining 59 sts to make the Left Back. Work rows 5-14, break yarn B and continue in yarn A only.

Next row: Knit
Next row: K6; (k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2) 7 times, k4. [45 sts]

Continue in garter stitch with yarn A until work measures 24 (27½) cm, or 9½ (10¾) inches, ending with a right side row.

Cast off, placing a marker for the collar on the 26th stitch from the end.

With right side facing, rejoin white yarn B to sts on stitch holder and pattern 78 (as 5th row of Wave pattern); turn and leave remaining sts on stitch holder.

Continue in pattern on these 78 sts for Front and work rows 6-14.
Break yarn B and continue in yarn A only.

Next row: Knit
Next row: K4; (k2tog, k2) 18 times, k2. [60 sts]

Continue in garter stitch with yarn A until work measures 20 (23½) cm, or 7¾ () inches, ending with a right side row.

Shape Neck:

Next row (wrong side): K27 and leave on a stitch holder; cast off 6 sts; knit to end.

Continue on remaining 27 sts for first side:

1st and every alternate row: Knit

2nd row (wrong side): cast off 3 sts, knit to end.
4th row: cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
6th row:
cast off 1 st, knit to end.
8th row: cast off 1 st, knit to end.
10th row: cast off 1 st, knit to end.

Work a few rows on remaining 19 sts until Front matches Left Back to shoulder.
Cast off.


With right side facing, rejoin yarn A to 27 sts of front left on stitch holder and k27.
Finish to correspond with first side, reversing shaping.

With right side facing, rejoin white to 59 sts on stitch holder and pattern 59 (as 5th row of Wave pattern).
Finish Right Back to correspond with Left Back, reversing placing of marker for Collar.

Angel Top - sleeves

With 2½mm needles and yarn A, cast on 30 sts and work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Next row (wrong side): K1, (ml, k1) 29 times. [59 sts]

Change to 3mm needles, join in white yarn B and beginning with 5th row of the Wave pattern, work in pattern until sleeve measures approximately 11 (14½) cm, or 4¼ () inches, ending with a 14th pattern row.

Break off yarn B and continue in yarn A only.
Work 4 rows garter stitch.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch using waste yarn in a contrast colour and leave stitches on a stitch holder.

Angel Top - collar

With 3mm needles and yarn A, cast on 120 sts and work 3 rows in garter stitch.
Break yarn A, and join in yarn B.

1st row: Sl 1 , * k1, yfwd, k4, k2tog, sl 1, k1, psso, K4, yfwd; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
2nd row: purl.

Rep these 2 rows twice more.

7th row: Sl 1 , * k1, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k3, sl 1, k1, psso; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. [93 sts]
Cast off.

Angel Top - neck band

With 3mm needles and yarn A, cast on 60 sts and work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Break yarn.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch using waste yarn in a contrast colour and leave stitches on a spare needle.

Making Up the Angel Top

Do not press.
Join shoulder seams.
Join sleeves to main part, unpicking contrast yarn and working stitch by stitch in back stitch on right side.
Sew Collar into neck opening, starting and ending at back markers.
Sew Neck Border over Collar, joining to Main Part in same way as the sleeves.
Make 2 buttonhole loops at Left Back and sew buttons on Right Back to correspond.

Materials

1 x 50g ball yarn A (pink),
1 x 50g ball yarn B (white)

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.

Stitch holders.

2 buttons.

Tension

24sts x 50 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

Yarn A: 25sts x 38 rows and yarn B: 30sts x 40 rows to 4 inches (in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles).

Size matters

Instructions given for two sizes:
0-3 (3-6) months, with second size shown in brackets. If only one set of instructions is shown then it is the same for both sizes.

Abbreviations

yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

sl 1: slip 1 stitch

sl 1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

m1: make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn A was Phildar Anouchka - a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend. I have no definitive information but this yarn had a very long yardage - Ravelry suggests
257 yards (235 meters).

Yarn B was their 100% cotton "Perlé 5" yarn with a yardage of 219 yards (200 meters). I used a substitute Twilleys thread for this.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


OldShaleAngelOutfit.jpg


Instructions for Pants

The pants are worked entirely in garter stitch (every row knitted) in one piece, starting at the front waist, working down to the crotch, and then up the back, ending at the back waist.

Begin at front and with 2½mm needles cast on 48(56) sts and work 2cms, or ¾ inch, in k1/p1 rib.
Change to 3mm needles and work 8(10) cms 3¼() inches in garter stitch, noting that 1st row you knitted is the right side, and ending with a wrong side row.

Divide for leg openings:

Next row: Knit 13(17) and leave on a stitch holder; k22, turn, and leave remaining 13 (17) sts on a stitch holder.

Continue on these centre 22 sts and work 9(10) cms 3½() inches in garter stitch,ending with a right side row.
Break yarn and leave 22 sts on a stitch holder.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to sts on first stitch holder and knit to end.
Continue on these 13(17) sts for left side of pants and work 4(5) cms, 1½(2) inches, in garter stitch ending with a wrong side row.

** Begin shaping side by decreasing 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 6th(4th) row.
Work 3 rows.

Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 4th row 2(1) times. [8(13) sts]
Work 1 row.

Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next and following 1(2) alternate rows. [6(10) sts]
Work 1 row.

Cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next and following 0(1) alternate rows. [4(6) sts]
Break yarn and leave these sts on a stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to sts on 2nd stitch holder and knit to end. [13(17) sts]
Work 4(5) cms, 1½(2) inches, in garter stitch ending with a right side row.

Shape Front Sides

Working right side of pants as left side from ** until 6(8) sts remain, ending at side edge.

Continue shaping sides and join all 3 parts to close leg openings:

Next row (wrong side): cast off 2 sts, k4(6) (including st left on needle after cast-off), k22 from centre, then k4(6) from left side. [30(34) sts]
Continue working across all stitches:

Next 2 rows: Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
Next 2 rows: Cast off 2(3) sts, knit to end
Next 2 rows: Cast Off 3(4) sts, knit to end.
Work 2 rows on remaining 16 sts.

Shape Back

2nd SIZE
Next 2 rows: Cast on 4 sts, knit to end.

BOTH SIZES
Next 2 rows: Cast on 3 sts, knit to end.
Next 6 rows: Cast on 2 sts, knit to end.
Next 6 (8) rows: Cast on 1 st, knit to end.
Work 3 rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 4th row 2 times. [46(56) sts]

1st SIZE
Work 5 rows.
Increase 1 st at each end of the next row. [48 sts ]

BOTH SIZES
Continue straight until Back matches Front to start of rib.
Change to 2½mm needles and work 2cms, or ¾ inch, in k1/p1 rib.

Cast off in rib.

Making Up the Pants

Leg Borders: With right side facing and using set of 4 needles, knit up 46(51) sts round each leg opening and work in rounds.

1st round: Purl
2nd round: Knit
Rep these 2 rows twice more.
Cast off loosely purlways.

Join side seams.

Materials

Pants: 1x 50g ball [suggested to be 257 yards / (235 meters]

Pairs of 2½mm (UK 12) and 3mm (UK 11) needles.
Set of 4, 2½mm (UK 12) needles with points at both ends.

Tension

24sts x 50 rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

25sts x 38 rows to 4 inches in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

Instructions given for two sizes:
0-3 (3-6) months, with second size shown in brackets. If only one set of instructions is shown then it is the same for both sizes.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

m1: make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn used for the Pants was Phildar Anouchka - a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend. I have no definitive information but this yarn had a very long yardage - Ravelry suggests
257 yards (235 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


OldShaleAngelSandals.jpg

Instructions for Sandals

With 2mm hook make 20 chain foundation row.

SOLE

1st round: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 17ch, 3 dc in next ch, then back along other side of foundation: 1 ch: 1 dc in each of next 18 ch, 3 dc in next ch, sl st to join.

Work 2 more rounds, working 3 dc in stitch at each end of sole as before.

4th round: 1 ch; (1 dc in each of next 19 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 3 end sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st) twice; sl st to join.

5th round: 1 ch; (1 dc in each of next 20 sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of 5 end sts, 3 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts) twice; sl st to join. [66 sts]

Work 1 round dc on these 66 sts to complete sole and fasten off.

With right side facing, mark 33 sts round one end of sole and work back of sandal working back and forth in rows:

1st row: Rejoin yarn. 3 ch; miss 1 st; 1 tr in next st; (1 ch, miss 1 st, 1 tr in next st) 15 times, turn.
2nd row: 1 ch, 1 dc in each ch and tr on previous row. [33 sts]
3rd row: As 1st row.
4th row: 2 ch, 1 tr in each ch and tr on previous row.
5th row: As 1st row.
6th row: Without turning, work in crab stitch back across the row.

Fasten Off.

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right (assuming you are right handed and normally crochet from left to right). It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

TOE

Make 18 ch.
Foundation Row: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch to end.
Mark centre st.
2nd row: work a row of dc, working 3 dc in centre stitch.
3rd row: work a row of dc, working 5 dc in centre stitch.
Work 1 row crab stitch along shaped edge.
Fasten off.

STRAPS for TOP of SANDAL

Make 26 ch and work Foundation Row as for Toe. [25 sts]

2nd and 3rd rows: 1 ch, 1 dc in each stitch to end.
Break yarn.

Miss 11 sts and rejoin yarn to next stitch 1 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 stitches. [3 sts]

Work 3cms (1¼ inches) in dc on these 3 sts, then continue in crab stitch round all edges, making a buttonhole at each side of 3 dc strip,
and as close as possible to the tip.

To Make a Buttonhole

2 ch, miss 2 rows, 1 dc in next row.

ANKLE STRAP

Make 17 ch.
Work 1 row crab stitch along both sides.

TO MAKE UP

Sew Toe and Sandal Straps in place on sole, (see photo).
Join Ankle Strap to top of Sandal Back; pass through buttonholes worked on each side of the 3 dc strap.
Work buttonhole loop at end of Ankle Strap, and sew button to Sandal to correspond.
Work a row of crab stitch round outer edge of Sole.


Make a second sandal and reverse position of Ankle Strap and button.

Materials

1 ball cotton 3 ply - possible yardage: 219 yards (200 meters).

2mm crochet hook.

2 small buttons

Tension

24.5 tr and 14 rows = 10cm using 3mm hook

Equivalent tension of 30sts x 40 rows to 4 inches (in stocking stitch on 2½mm needles).

Size matters

The pattern is given in one size.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet

sl st: slip stitch
yoh: yarn over hook;

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was Phildar 100% cotton "Perlé 5" with a suggested yardage of 219 yards (200 meters).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Notes on English Crochet Stitches

Double crochet:
draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through both loops on hook. [American single].
Half treble*:
pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through all 3 loops on hook. [American double]
Treble:
pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, then draw another loop through 2 remaining loops.
Double treble*:
pass yarn twice round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.
Triple treble*:
pass yarn three times round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, another through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.

* not used in this pattern.


Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch - a picture painting a thousand words and so on.

September 2014

Honeycomb Cardigan

HoneycombCardiganC.jpg

I am very keen on this clever slip stitch method of making a honeycomb pattern. This cardigan is from the 1980s knitted in a bouclé chunky yarn. I thought it makes a good option if (as I do) you love a design in the latest Rowan magazine (56), but want something quicker and easier to knit. I have mocked up a colour scheme to show what it might look like, using 2 contrast spots instead of 6, making the sleeves plain and adding coloured bands; you could also make bracelet length sleeves (also a favourite of mine) but maybe less appropriate in a chunky weight cardigan.

One benefit of the design as it stands is that you could potentially use up left over yarn in the contrast spots - you could even have every set of spotted rows a different colour for a fun design.

Instructions.

The pattern is given in 3 sizes; the smallest size first and the 2nd and third sizes in brackets. Where only one number is given it applies to all 3 sizes.

Back

With Main (M) wool and No 8 (4mm) needles cast on 56 stitches. Work in k1/p1 rib for 7 cm, 2¾ ins, finishing with a right-side row.

Next row: Rib 4 (8, 0), * increase in the next stitch, rib 3 (3, 4); repeat from * to last 0 (0, 4) stitches. For 3rd size increase in next stitch rib 3. [69 (73, 77) sts]

Change to No 4 (6 mm) needles. With M, knit one row and purl one row. Now work in pattern thus:

1st row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * k3, sl1, repeat from * to end.
2nd row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * p3. sl1, repeat from * to end.
3rd row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * k3, sl1, repeat from * to end.
4th row: with 1st contrast, sl1, * p3. sl1, repeat from * to end.
5th row: with M, knit.
6th row: with M, purl.

7th row: with 2nd contrast, k2, * sl1, k3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
8th row: with 2nd contrast, p2, * sl1, p3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
9th row: with 2nd contrast, k2, * sl1, k3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
10th row: with 2nd contrast, p2, * sl1, p3, repeat from * , ending last repeat with k2.
11th and 12th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

13th to 16th rows - with 3rd contrast work as 1st to 4th rows.
17th and 18th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

19th to 22nd rows - with 4th contrast work as 7th to 10th rows.
23rd and 24th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

25th to 28th rows - with 5th contrast work as 1st to 4th rows.
29th and 30th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

31st to 34th rows - with 6th contrast work as 7th to 10th rows.
35th and 36th rows: as 5th and 6th rows (2 rows in M)

These 36 rows form the pattern, and are repeated throughout.

Note: you can carry yarns not in use loosely up the side of the work to avoid too many joins.

Continue until work measures 37 cm, 14½ inches, from beginning, finishing with a wrong-side row.

Shape Armholes:

Keeping pattern correct, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Then, decrease one stitch at the beginning of every row until 53 (57, 61) stitches remain.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 58 (59, 60) cm, 23 (23¼, 23½) inches, finishing with a wrong-side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 5 (5, 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows and 4 (6, 5) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. Slip remaining 25 (25, 27) stitches on to a stitch-holder.

Left front

With 4mm needles and M, cast on 27 (31, 31) stitches. Work in k1/p1
rib for 7 cm, 2¾ ins, beginning alternate rows with p1, and finishing with a right-side row.

Next row: * Rib 3 (4, 4), increase in the next stitch; repeat from * to last 3 (1, 1) stitches; rib 3 (1, 1). [33 (37, 37) sts]

Change to No 4 (6 mm) needles. With M, knit one row and purl one row.

Continue in pattern as for back and work straight until front is same length as back to armhole, finishing at side edge, with same patt row.

Shape Armhole:

Keeping pattern correct, cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row. Then, decrease one stitch at the same edge of the next 4 alternate rows. [25 (29, 29) sts]
Continue without further shaping until work measures 54cm, 21¼ inches, finishing at front edge.

Shape Neck:
Cast off 3 (4, 4) stitches at the beginning of the next row. Then, decrease one stitch at the same edge on every row until 14 (16, 17) stitches remain.

Continue without further shaping until work is same length as back to shoulder, finishing at armhole edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 5 (5, 6) stitches at the beginning of the next row and the following alternate row. [4 (6, 5) sts]

Work one row.
Cast off

Right front

Work as for left front, reversing shaping.

Sleeves (both alike)

With 4mm needles and M, cast on 32 stitches.

Work in

Next row: Work in rib, increasing in every 6th stitch. [37 sts]

Change to 6mm needles. With M, knit one row and purl one row.
Work as for the 19th to 36th rows of the back, at the same time increasing one stitch at each end of the 7th row and every following
8th row.

Then beginning with the 1st pattern row, continue in main pattern as for the back, still increasing on every 8th row until there are 53 stitches, working new stitches into the pattern as soon as possible.

Continue without further shaping until work measures 45cm, 17½ inches, finishing with the same pattern row as on the back at armhole shaping.

Shape Top:
Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Then, decrease one stitch at the beginning of the next 8 (6, 6) rows. Then, decrease one stitch at each end of every 4th row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Do not press.
[Editor's note: That is an instruction for the boucle yarn as well as the pattern. For smooth yarns you can press lightly with a damp cloth.]
Join shoulder, side and sleeve seams.

Neckband:

With 4mm needles and M, pick up and knit 22 (23, 23) stitches up right neck, knit across stitches from back increasing 2 stitches evenly, pick up and knit 22 (23, 23) stitches down left neck. [71 (73, 75) sts]
Work in k1 /p1 rib for 9 rows, beginning alternate rows with p1.
Cast off in rib.

Buttonband:

With 4 mm needles and M, cast on 7 stitches. Work in rib as for neckband until band is long enough, when slightly stretched, to fit up left front. Cast off in rib.

Mark positions for 8 buttons, the first and last to come about 1cm,
½ inch, from cast-on and cast-off edges, with the rest evenly spaced
between.

Buttonhole band:

Work as for buttonband, making buttonholes to match marked positions by casting off 3 centre stitches in one row and casting on 3 stitches in next row.

Set in sleeves, gathering top edge slightly to fit into armholes.
Sew on front bands. Press seams lightly.
Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

Materials

7 (7, 8) 50g balls in main colour. and 2 50g balls in each of 6 Contrasts.
One pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 4 (6mm) knitting needles.

8 buttons.

Tension

14 stitches and 22 rows to 10 centi-
metres (4 inches) measured over
pattern. using 6 mm needles.

Size matters

To fit 86 (91, 97) centimetre,34 (36,
38) inch, bust.
Length, 58 (59, 60)
cm, 23 (23¼, 23½) inches.
Sleeve seam, 45cm 17½ inches.

A Word on the Wool

Sirdar Romano is a chunky bouclé yarn knitting to a tension of 14-16 sts to 4 inches over stocking stitch - which is an average chunky weight. Check the yarn you substitute as chunky covers a fairly wide range of numbers, and adjust your needle size by knitting a swatch.
I have no information on yardage but from memory it was a light weight yarn thus may have had a good yardage - so you may need more than stated if using a different yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2014

Topsy-Turvy Doll

TopsyTurvy2.jpg

I have a mysterious fascination with this type of doll. I have even gone as far as cutting two moulded porcelain dolls at the soft slip stage and sticking them together to create my own porcelain version. I think that this must have all started by my seeing one in the Worthing Museum when I was a small child even though I cannot precisely recall it. As a child I am not sure I would have been so keen to play with such a doll - I liked realistic dolls rather than novelty items. However, it left a lasting impression on me, and here is knitted version for you to try.

Instructions.

This design has two completely different dolls with different dresses - sometimes you even find Red Riding Hood and the Wolf in topsy-turvy form though I find that a bit horrific. However, I quite like the complete negative effect as I made for my bisque doll - one dress in white with red spots, and the other red with white spots - if that appealed then you could easily adapt this pattern by reversing the spot colour dress colours.

Doll Body Back
(Make one in cream and one in brown)

With 3¼ mm needles and yarn used double, cast on 31 sts. Beginning with a knit row, work 20 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows [15sts].
Work 6 rows in stocking stitch . **

Increase one stitch at each end of the next row and the following 2 alternate rows. Then, increase one stitch at each end of the next 5 rows [31 sts]

Work 26 rows in stocking stitch.

*** Decrease one stitch at each end of the next 5 rows [21 sts]

Next row: (p2tog) 3 times, p9, (p2tog) 3 times. [15 sts]
Next row: (k2tog) twice, k7, (k2tog) twice.
Next row: (p2tog) twice, p3, (p2tog) twice.

Cast off.

Doll Body Front
(Make one in cream and one in brown)

Work as for back to **.

Next row: K5, ml; * k1, ml, rep from * 4 times more; k5 [21 sts]
Next row: Purl
Next row: K17. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p12. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p13. Turn.
Cont thus, working one extra stitch on each row until all stitches are worked. Increase one stitch at each end of the next row.
Purl one row.
Increase one stitch at each end of the next 4 rows [31 sts]
Work 26 rows in stocking stitch.

Complete as for back from *** to end.

Doll Arms
(Make 2 in cream and 2 in brown)

With 3¼ mm needles and yarn used double, cast on 12 stitches. Beginning with a knit row, cont in stocking stitch. Increase one stitch at each end of the 3rd and 5th rows [16 sts].
Purl one row.

7th row: K7; increase in each of next 2 stitches, k 7
8th and every alt row: Purl
9th row: K7, increase in next stitch, k2, increase in next stitch, k7
11th row: K7, increase in next stitch, k4, increase in next stitch, k7
13th row: K7, increase in next stitch, k6, increase in next stitch, k7 [24 sts]
15th row: K8, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k8
17th row: K8, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k8

Work 37 rows.

Cast off.

To Make up the Dolls

With right sides together, join body and head, leaving bottom open.
Turn and stuff firmly.
Join dolls together round waist, putting in more stuffing if needed.
Join arms at sides. Stuff end of hand flat, then stuff remainder.
Stitch across tops, then stitch across shoulder, making middle of arm at shoulder seams - arms should drop both ways.
Tie yarn round wrists, and stitch 3 lines to mark fingers, and down the shaping for thumb.
On cream doll work eyebrows and eye shape in small back-stitch, using brown. Work blue satin stitch for eyes, with a black stitch in the centre.
Mark cheeks using rouge or blusher (or embroider if preferred).
On brown doll use black instead of brown and work in white round the eyes.
Work noses in self-colour satin-stitch, starting at top with small stitches, and getting larger, with 2 black dots for nostrils.
Work mouths in red.

Doll Hair

For cream doll, use single brown yarn.
With 3¾ mm needles cast on 22 stitches.

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K1; * work loop stitch thus:- insert needle into next stitch knitways; with first finger of left hand under point of right needle wind yarn round finger and needle twice, then round needle once more, draw all loops through stitch and slip them on to left needle, knit together all loops and the stitch and slip off needle together, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: As 1st row.
4th row: As 2nd row.
5th row: As 1st row, increasing one stitch at each end.

Repeat the 2nd to 5th rows twice more, then the 2nd and 3rd rows 3 times [28 sts]
Next row: k1; (loop stitch, k2tog) 9 times.
Cast off.

Join cast-on edge to top of face. Fold cast-off edge and join, then shape hair round face and stitch round face and back of head.

For brown doll, work hair in same way, using black yarn double and 3¾ mm needles.

Doll Dress (with spot pattern)

With 3¾ mm Twin Pin (circular needle) and red (R), cast on 202 stitches. Knit 5 rows, then purl one row.
Join in white (W) and continue in stocking stitch, working in pattern thus:-
1st row: Knit 4R, * 2W, 6R, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, 2W, 4R.
2nd row: Purl 3R, 4W, * 4R, 4W, rep from * to lastitch 3 stitches, 3R.
3rd row: Knit 3R, 4W, * 4R, 4W, rep from * to lastitch 3 stitches, 3R.
4th row: Purl 4R, * 2W, 6R, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, 2W, 4R.
5th to 8th row: Work in R.
9th row:  * Knit 2W, 6R, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, 2W.
10th row: Purl 3W, 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3W.
11th row: Knit 3W, 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3W.
12th row: * Purl 2W, 6R, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, 2W.
13th to 16th row: Work in R.

Repeat these 16 rows 4 times more, then first 14 rows again.

Next row(continue in red): K1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, rep from * to end [68 sts]
Change to 3¼ mm needles. Knit 4 rows. Cast off.

Spot Dress Sleeves (both alike)

With 3¼ mm needles and R, cast on 22 stitches. Knit 4 rows.
Join in white (W). Change to 3¾ mm needles.
Next row: With W, knit twice into every stitch [44 sts]
Beginning with purl row, work 3 rows stocking stitch.

Now start pattern rows:-

1st row: Knit 1W, 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to last stitch, 1W
2nd row: Purl 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to end
3rd row: Knit 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to end
4th row: Purl 1W, 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to last stitch, 1W
5th to 8th row: Work in white in stocking stitch.
9th row: Knit 5W, * 2R, 6W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, 2A, 5B
10th row: Purl 4W,, * 4R, 4W, repeat from * to end
11th row: Knit 4W,, * 4R, 4W, repeat from * to end
12th row: Purl 5W, * 2R, 6W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, 2A, 5B
13th to 16th row: Work in white in stocking stitch.

Repeat the 16 rows of pattern once more. Break off red and continue in white only.
Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Leave remaining 34 stitches on a spare needle.

Spot Dress Bodice

With 3¾ mm needles and W, cast on 82 stitches. Knit 4 rows.
Join in R and continue in stocking stitch, with garter stitch border, thus:

5th row: Knit 2W, yfd, k2togW, 4W, 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to lastitch 8 stitches, 8W.
6th row:-Knit 5W, then purl 2W, 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, purl 2W, knit 5W.
7th row: Knit 7W, 4R, * 4W, 4W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, knit 7W.
8th row: K5W, then purl 3W, 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, purl 3W, knit 5W
9th to 12th row: - With white, work in stocking stitch.
13th row: Knit 2W, yfd, k2togW, 1W, 1R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 6W, 1R, 5W.
14th row: Knit 5W, then purl 2R, 4W * 4R, 4W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, purl 2R, knit 5W
15th row: Knit 5W, 2R, 4W, * 4R, 4W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, 2R, 5W
16th row:-Knit 5 B, then purl 1R, 6W, 2R, 3W, with W cast off next 10 stitches, weaving R loosely across stitches; then with 1 white stitch on needle after casting off, purl 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * twice more, purl 1W, cast off 10 sts as before, purl 3W including stitch on needle, 2R, 6W, 1R, knit 5W. Break off red.
Leave stitches on spare needle.

Spot Dress Yoke (all in white)

With right side of bodice facing, using 3¾ mm needles and using white yarn, knit 17 stitches from first side of back, (k2tog) 17 times across top of sleeve, k28 across front of bodice, (k2tog) 17 times across top of second sleeve, k17 across second side of back [96 sts]

1st row (wrong side facing): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
2nd row: Knit
3rd and every alternate row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
4th row: K2, yfd, k2tog, k7, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, * k10, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, k11 [84 sts]
6th row: Knit
8th row: K10, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k8; repeat from * to last 14 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k10
10th row: K9, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k6; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k9
12th row: K8, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k4; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k8 [48 sts]
13th row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.

Break off white and work last rows in red.
14th row: In red (R) k2, yfd, k2tog, knit to end.
Knit 4 rows.
Cast off.

Second Doll Dress (with stripe pattern)

With 3¾ mm Twin Pin (circular needle) and lilac (L), cast on 202 stitches. Knit 5 rows.

Beginning with a purl row, work 3 rows stocking stitch.
Continue in stocking stitch, joining in colours as required:

1st and 2nd rows: work in white (W)
3rd and 4th rows: work in claret (C)
5th and 6th rows: work in white (W)
7th row: Knit 3W, * 2R, 2W, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3R
8th row: Purl 3R, * 2W, 2R, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3W
8th row: Knit 3R, * 2W, 2R, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3W
7th row: Purl 3W, * 2R, 2W, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3R
11th to 16th row: As 1st to 6th rows.
17th to 20th rows: work in lilac (L)
21st and 22nd rows: work in claret (C)
23rd to 26th rows: work in lilac (L)

Rep these 26 rows twice more, then rep the 1st to 16th rows again.

Continue with lilac (L) only, breaking off other colours.

Next row(continue in lilac): K1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, rep from * to end [68 sts]
Change to 3¼ mm needles. Knit 4 rows. Cast off.

Stripe Dress Sleeves (both alike)

With 3¼ mm needles and lilac (L), cast on 23 stitches. Knit 4 rows.
Change to 3¾ mm needles.
Next row: With W, knit twice into every stitch [46 sts]
Purl one row.

Work 1st to 16th rows of skirt pattern; decrease one stitch at each end of the last row [44 sts].

Break off colours, and continue working in lilac (L) only.
Work 20 rows stocking stitch.
Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 34 sts on a spare needle.

Stripe Dress Bodice

With 3¾ mm needles and lilac (L), cast on 82 stitches. Knit 4 rows.

Continue using lilac only and work exactly as you did for the first dress, keeping the garter stitch border correct.

Leave stitches on spare needle.

Stripe Dress Yoke (all in lilac)

With right side of bodice facing, using 3¾ mm needles and using lilac yarn, knit 17 stitches from first side of back, (k2tog) 17 times across top of sleeve, k28 across front of bodice, (k2tog) 17 times across top of second sleeve, k17 across second side of back [96 sts]

Work the first 7 rows as for the first dress:

1st row (wrong side facing): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
2nd row: Knit
3rd and every alternate row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
4th row: K2, yfd, k2tog, k7, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, * k10, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, k11 [84 sts]
5th row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
6th row: Knit
7th row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.

Join in white:
8th row (in white): K10, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k8; repeat from * to last 14 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k10
9th row (in white): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
Join in claret:
10th row (in claret): K9, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k6; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k9
11th row (in claret): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
Break off claret and continue in white for 2 rows:
12th row (in white): K8, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k4; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k8 [48 sts]
13th row (in white): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.

Break off white and work last rows in lilac only:
14th row: In red (R) k2, yfd, k2tog, knit to end.

K 4 rows. Cast off.

Making Up the Dresses

Join sleeves of spot dress up to cast-off edges.
Join cast-off edges to cast-off edges on bodice.
Finish off ends.
Sew on buttons to match buttonholes.
Join bottom of bodice to waist of doll.

Make top of stripe dress the same and join at waist, meeting other top.

Join back seams of skirts.
Put both skirts on to doll and join to tops at waistline.

Starting at back seam, with crochet hook and white, work * 1 dc through bottom edges of dresses, working through both skirts at once, miss 1 stitch, 3 tr into next st. miss 1 st, rep from * to end.

Fasten off.

Materials

Robin Reward Double Knitting:
Dolls: 3 x 50g brown, 2 x 50g cream, 1 x 50g black and small amounts of blue and white for eyes and red for mouths.
Dresses: 3 x 50g in each of white and red, 2 x 50g in lilac, and 1 x 50g in claret.

8 small buttons.


One pair each 3¼mm and 3¾ mm
knitting needles.

3¾ mm Twin-Pin, 60 cm, (24 inches), long.

Medium crochet hook.

Stuffing.

Tension

22 sts x 28 rows to 10 centimetres, (4 inches), measured over stocking stitch, using 3¾ mm needles.

Size matters

About 54 cm,
(21 inches), high.

Abbreviations

m1:- make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.
yfd: yarn forward; bring the yarn to the front of the work and pass it over the needle when knitting the next stitch; makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.
sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet

Find instructions for crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

Robin Reward was a nylon budget double knitting.

You can buy a Robin double knitting today, 100% acrylic in 100g balls at very low cost. Its wide colour range, robust qualities, and reasonable price could make it very suitable for hard working toys.
Robin Premium Acrylic is also available in 25g balls which is useful for making toys.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


My porcelain version of a topsy turvy doll.

TopsyTurvy3.jpg

July 2013

Crochet Bootees for a Special Baby

CrochetBootees.jpg

Well - it's so much talked about I could not let it pass without a little commemoration could I?
Just make sure you make them for your own special baby - I am sure the Palace is exploding with little woolly items (and in one of the hottest month's on record...).

This crochet pattern is a staggered shell, which I found a little tricky to follow, so use the detail photo at the end for guidance as to what it should look like.

Instructions.

Special pattern stitch:
Picot: make 5 ch, then work 1 dc into 2nd of these 5 ch

And a reminder of English crochet stitches:

Double crochet: draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through both loops on hook. [American single].
Half treble: pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through all 3 loops on hook. [American double]
Treble: pass yarn round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, then draw another loop through 2 remaining loops.
Double treble: pass yarn twice round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loop through first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.
Triple treble: (not used in this pattern) pass yarn three times round hook, draw a loop through next stitch, draw a loopthrough first 2 loops on hook, draw a loop through next 2 loops, another through next 2 loops, then another through last 2 loops.

Bootees (make 2)

Beginning at the sole: make 15(17;20;23)ch loosely.

1st round: Miss 3 ch, 3 tr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 1(1;2;2) ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 2(3;3;4) ch, 1 d tr in each of next 3(4;6;8) ch, 9 dtr in last ch.
Now, work along other side of ch, working 1 dtr in each of next 3(4;6;8) ch, 1 tr in each of next 2(3;3;4) ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 1(1;2;2) ch, 4 tr in same place as first 3 tr; sl st into 3rd ch at beginning to join the round.

2nd round: 3 ch, "inc", 1 tr in next st, "inc", 1 tr in each of next 10(12;15;18) sts, ("inc", 1 tr in next st) 4 times, "inc", 1 tr in each of next 10(12;15;18) sts, ("inc", 1 tr in next st) twice, sl st in 3rd ch at beginning. You now have 46(50;56;62) tr, counting the initial 3 ch as 1 tr.

3rd round: Working into the back loops only (leaves a ridge to mark sole): 3 ch, 1 tr in each tr to end; sl st in 3rd ch at beginning.

4th round: 3 ch, 1 tr in each tr to end; sl st in 3rd ch at beg.

Repeat the 4th round 0(0;1;1) time(s).

Shape Instep

You are now going to work back and forth across the instep in rows.

1st row: 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 28(30;33;36) tr, miss next tr, sl st across next 2 tr. Turn.
2nd row: Miss 2 sl sts, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, miss next tr, sl st across next 2 tr. Turn.

Repeat the 2nd row 4(4;4;6) times.

Next row: Miss 2 sl st, 1 tr in each of next 10 tr, 1 tr in each tr to end; sl st in 3rd ch at beg of 1st row to rejoin the round. You now have 28(32;38;38) tr.

Next round: 4 ch, miss 1(1;2;2) tr, 1 tr in next tr, * 1 ch, miss 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, repeat from * to last 1(1;2;2) sts, miss last 1(1;2;2) sts, sl st in 3rd of 4 ch to join the round. You now have 14(16;18;18) holes.

Next round: 1 ch, 1 dc in same place as sl st, * 1 dc in next 1 ch sp, 1 dc in next tr, repeat from * to last ch sp, 1 dc in 1 ch sp, 1 dc in same place as first dc, DO NOT JOIN the round.
You now have 29(33;37;37) dc.

Turn, and work in rows as follows:

First size only:

1st row (wrong side): 1 ch, 2 dc in first dc, * 3 ch, miss 3 dc, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next dc, miss 2 dc, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next dc, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 dc in last dc instead of (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc).

2nd, 3rd and 4th sizes:

1st row (wrong side): 1 ch, 2 dc in first dc, * 3 ch, miss 3 dc, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next dc, miss 2 dc, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next dc *; repeat from * to * (0;1;1) times; 3ch, miss (2;3;3) dc, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next dc, miss (2;3;3) dc, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in next dc (3;1;1) times; repeat from * to * (1;2;2) times, ending last repeat with 2 dc in last dc instead of (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc).

All sizes: You now have 4(5;5;5) patterns.

2nd row: (3 ch, 1 tr) in first dc, * 3 ch, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next 3 ch sp, miss next 3 ch sp, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 tr in last dc instead of (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr).

3rd row: (3 ch, 1 tr) in first tr, * 3 ch, (1 dc, 3 ch, 3 tr) in next 3 ch sp, miss next 3 ch sp, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 tr in top of turning ch instead of (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr).

Repeat the 3rd row 1(1;3;3) times.

Next row: (3 ch, 1 tr) in first tr, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, miss 1 sp, (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * ending last repeat with 2 tr in top of turning ch instead of (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr).

Next row: (3 ch, 2 tr) in first tr, * miss 1 sp, (3 tr, "Picot", 3 tr) in next dc, miss 1 sp, (3 tr, "Picot", 3 tr) in next 1 ch sp, repeat from * to last pattern, miss 1 sp, (3 tr, "Picot", 3 tr) in next dc, miss 1 sp, 3 tr in top of turning ch, "Picot". Fasten off.

Make Up

Using a flat seam, join back seam.
Thread ribbon through holes at ankle.
It is recommended not to press these bootees, owing to the crochet texture.

Materials

1 ball 3ply.

3mm crochet hook.

1m of ribbon

Tension

24.5 tr and 14 rows = 10cm using 3mm hook

Size matters

The pattern is given in 4 sizes: length of sole 7(8;9;11) cm

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet
htr: half treble
dtr: double treble

sl st: slip stitch
yoh: yarn over hook;
inc: increase - work 2 tr in next tr
dec: decrease - (yoh, draw up a loop in next st, yoh and draw through first 2 loops on hook) twice, yoh and draw through all 3 loops on hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Picture of pattern detail:

CrochetBootees.jpg

June 2012

Baby Shawlette

BabyShawletteFront.jpg

This is so very easy to knit and looks so cute over a (Liberty?) cotton baby frock. No idea how practical it is to keep in place, but it has secure back fastening straps and is perfect as a gift or for that special summer baby occasion.

Instructions

The shawlette is worked in garter stitch (every row knitted) throughout. You start your knitting at the bottom of the back and work up towards the neck, where you divide and complete each front section separately. It is designed to cross over at the front, and button into place at the back.

Using No 12 needles, cast on 50 sts and work in garter stitch for ½ inch (approximately 8-9 rows).

Next row(make eyelets): K6; ** wrn, k2tog; repeat from ** to last 6 sts; k6.
Next row:
Knit.

Start to shape the back as follows:

1st row: K6, wrn; knit to last 6 sts; wrn, k6.
2nd row: Knit

Repeat these two rows, (increasing 2 sts on each alternate row), until there are 115 sts. Your work then measures approximately 5¾ inches from the beginning.

Now start to shape the right front, working each side of the neck separately.

Next row: K6, wrn, k40, turn.
Leave the remaining 69 sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.

Working only on these 47sts:

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K6, wrn, k2tog; knit to last 8sts; k2tog, k6.

Repeat these two rows, (decreasing 1 stitch on each alternate row), until 15 sts remain.

Next row: K6, wrn, k3tog, k6
Next row: Knit
Next row: Knit to last 8sts; k2tog, k6.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain (your last decrease row will be "k2tog, k5").

Work strap, buy continuing to knit on these 6sts for 2¼ inches.

Next row (make buttonhole): K2, cast off 2, knit 2.
Next row: K2, cast on 2 over those cast off, knit 2.
Next row: K2tog, k2, k2tog.
Next row: K2tog, k2tog.
Next row: K2tog and pull thread through to cast off.

Now pick up the sts left on the spare needle and join yarn to neck edge where you left off. Cast off 23 sts then, start to shape the left front, by knitting to the last 6sts, wrn, k6 [47 sts].

Working only on these 47sts:

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K6, s1,k1,psso; knit to last 8sts; s1,k1,psso; wrn, k6.

Repeat these two rows, (decreasing 1 stitch on each alternate row), until 15 sts remain.

Next row: K6, s2,k1,pass 2 slipped sts over; wrn, k6
Next row: Knit
Next row: K6, s1,k1,psso; knit to end

Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain (your last decrease row will be "k5, s1,k1,psso").

Work strap, buy continuing to knit on these 6sts for 2¼ inches, and finishing with a buttonhole as for the right front.

To Make Up

Do not block or press.
Sew in all ends.
Sew buttons to back to attach front straps.

Materials

1 x 40g ball 4ply fingering yarn.

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm or 2½mm ) needles.

2 small buttons.

Tension

30sts x 58rows to 4 ins in over garter stitch (every row knit).

Size matters

To fit 3-6 months (18-19 inch chest).

Abbreviations

wrn: wool round needle. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together.

s1,k1,psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A word on the wool.

The original yarn was a slightly fluffy 4 ply mohair/acrylic blend.
You could use beautifully soft Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply, or experiment to make a larger size using Baby Cashmerino (check out with a swatch for both needle size and drape).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Here's a view showing you the back.

BabyShawletteBack.jpg

January 2012

Isobel's Little Blanket

IsobelsBlanket.jpg

This is small blanket or cot cover made from 12 crochet squares in chunky yarn (so quick to make). It's based the usual granny-square principle, but a very pretty example of it incorporating the central flower motif.

Instructions

There are a couple of new stitches used in this pattern, as well as basic chain, dc, and treble. There is a "cluster" used in making the central flower, and crab stitch for the edging.

Make cluster:

Working all into the same stitch, **yoh, draw through loop **; repeat from ** to ** 4 times (9 loops on hook); yoh, draw loop through all loops on hook; yoh, draw loop through stitch on hook.
[Editor's note: This last stitch is just "1 chain".]

Crab Stitch

Crab stitch is worked exactly as you do double crochet - but from right to left instead of left to right. It seems very awkward but just force yourself to do it; push the hook through the stitch to the right of your needle, pull through a loop, then yoh and pull through both loops on hook.

It creates a very attractive twisted ribbed edge.

There a is you tube extract inserted at end of this item - or go search the web for "crab stitch" for a variety of explanations.

Motif (make 12)

Starting at the centre of the square: using 7mm hook and first contrast, (plum), make 6ch and join in a ring using a slip stitch.

1st round: 8dc into the ring and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.
2nd round: **1 cluster in first dc, 3ch; 1 cluster in next dc, 1ch **; repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first st.
Change to second contrast (cream).
3rd round: Insert hook in first 3-chain space and make 2 chain for first treble; **2tr in same space, 3ch; 3tr in same space, 1ch; 3tr in next 1-chain space, 1ch; 1tr in next 3-chain space, ** repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, omitting the very last tr in the repeated sequence, and join with a slip stitch to top of first chains.
Change to third contrast (lime).
4th round: 1 dc **1dc over each of next 3tr, 3dc into next 3-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space; 1dc over each of next 3tr, 1dc into next 1-chain space;**. Repeat from ** to ** 3 times more, and join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.

Fasten off.

This completes the motif.

IsobelsBlanket_detail.jpg

To Make Up

Make 12 squares altogether.

With 7mm hook and 3rd contrast (lime), join 2 squares together; hold right sides together and slip stitch through the back loop of each dc, leaving the front loops exposed as a decorative ridge on the right side (see photos).
[Editor's note: If you can't immediately see what is meant here, try experimenting. There is a loop on each side of a crochet stitch; usually when placing a stitch on top on the next row, you push your hook through both loops, but for some decorative sts, you are asked to use either only the back or only the front loops in order to create a ridge, Whatever you end up doing, just make sure you are consistent, so that you get a nice consistent pattern emerging.]

Join 3 squares in a row, then join the 4 rows together.

Finally, using first contrast (plum) and right side facing, work a row of dc all around the blanket, and work 2 or 3sts into the 4 corner sts, to make it curve properly. Then, keeping the right side facing you, change to a 6mm hook and go back the way you came, working one row of crab stitch right to left.

Sew in all ends.

Block the blanket by pinning it out and dampening; leave to dry. You can press very lightly with a damp cloth - just hold the iron above the cloth so it heats it but do not press down. You want to leave the texture of the stitches in place, so do not press heavily.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of chunky in each of first and second contrast and 1 ball in third contrast.


One No 2 (7mm) and one No 4 (6mm) crochet hook.

Tension

Each square is intended to measure 4¾ inches.

Size matters

To fit cot, pram, or Moses basket.

Abbreviations

yoh: yarn over hook.
ch: chain.
cl: cluster.
dc: double crochet.
tr: treble crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and tr is equivalent to US double crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original yarn produces a tension of 13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch. You can substitute an Aran weight yarn worked double throughout, though this is less easy to work with for crochet patterns.

I used Patons Pompero a chunky yarn, knitting to a tension of 16sts x 22 rows to 4 ins, which is thinner, though I used a 7mm hook with it.

Result of my yarn choice is a smaller blanket, requiring only one ball in each colour.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Crab Stitch

Here is a You Tube item showing how to do crab stitch,
(a picture painting a thousand words and so on).

November 2011

Ski Slope Fair-Isle

SkiSlopeFairIsle.jpg

The second nordic-style sweater for November in a slightly lighter weight yarn. Like the previous design it has a straight inset sleeve, as well as the bright ("modern") colour combination of the 1980s. The pattern includes instructions for plain leg warmers.

Instructions

This pattern uses 3 familiar stitch types:

Double Rib: repeated sequence of k2, p2 rib.
Stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row.
Fair-isle stocking stitch, following the chart.

Back:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 86 / 90 / 94 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and stocking stitch, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [101/ 105/ 109 sts]. Continue joining in contrast (R) for dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as per the lower section of chart.
When work measures approximately 16¾ inches, change to No 6 (5mm) needles and beg the fair-isle motifs. When work measures 18 inches, shape the armholes by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When the fair-isle motif is complete, change back to No 7 needles and continue in dotted fair-isle until work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off 8 at the beginning of the next 2 rows (all sizes).

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes), knit 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn leaving the remaining sts unworked but still on the needle to pick up in a moment, .
Purl back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts.

Return to the sts still on the needle for the neck and left side. Place the centre 43 sts on a stitch holder for the back neck, and then rejoin yarn to the remaining sts and knit 1 row.

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes) purlwise, purl 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn, knit back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts purlwise.

Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 90 / 94 / 98 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as for the back, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [105/ 109 / 113 sts].
Change to No 6 (5mm) needles when you work the fair-isle motifs just as you did on the back section.

When work measures 18 inches (same as back to armhole), shape the armholes by casting off 8 / 9 / 10 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When work measures 25½ / 26 / 26½ inches, shape neck:
leave centre 23 sts on spare needle and continue each side separately, casting off at neck edge on every alternate row as follows: 3 sts (once), 2 sts (twice) and 1 st (3 times) [23 / 24 / 25 sts].

When work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches, work shoulder shaping as you did for the back, casting off at armhole edge on every alternate row as follows: 8 sts (twice), 7 / 8 / 9 sts (once).

Sleeves:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 54 / 58 / 62 sts work 3½ inches in double rib.

Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle, increasing 17 sts evenly across first row [71 / 75 / 79 sts].

Increase 1 st at each end of every 8th row 9 times, [89 / 93 / 97 sts]. When work measures approximately 11½ / 12½ / 13½ inches, . (11 change to No 6 needles and work the fair-isle motifs.

Cast off when you have completed the second border pattern, before you start the dotted fair-isle.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side with a damp cloth

Stitch one shoulder seam. Using No 9 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 98 / 102 / 106 sts evenly round neck. Work inches in double rib.
Cast off.

Stitch second shoulder seam and neck border seam.

Sew in sleeves.

Stitch side and sleeve seams.

Materials

13/14/15 x 50g balls in main shade (orange) and 4/5/6 balls contrast colour (red)/

Pair each No 9 (3¾mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

18½sts and 21 rows to 4 ins using No 7 needles over dotted fair-isle stocking stitch (lower section of chart).

Size matters

The sweater has instructions for 3 sizes, which are intended to be for men or women as follows: man's to fit chest: 40/42/44 inches; woman's to fit: 34/36/38 inches (size 12/14/16 UK size).

Actual size seems to be 43/45½/47 inches.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Pingouin Monsieur, or Sport yarn.

It was a synthetic Aran-type yarn knitting to a tension of 17sts and 23 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch using 4½mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Charts:

This is the main chart showing the fair-isle design described in the pattern. It leaves a lot to work out yourself, showing the centre point and allowing you to work our where to start your row for each of the sizes.

Working it out yourself is made more difficult since the main panel pattern is a 34 stitch repeat, while the border above and below is a 6 stitch pattern repeat like the dotted body pattern. You can match up your first border with the dots, and use the chart below to see where to start and end your main panel pattern. Then match your second border spacing it the same as the first one.
This is the chart marked with start and end points for the back showing the 3 sizes, and the 34 stitch repeat. The front has 4 extra stitches up to the amhholes, so start 2 sts further out for the front.

This is a similar chart for the sleeve marking with start and end points for the 3 sizes.

[Editor's note: I worked out and drew the charts myself, and made lots of trivial errors before I was satisfied that they were right. So if you are having difficulty with the charts, or if you think there may be a mistake, please do let me know.]



Legwarmers

The legwarmers are worked in rib throughout.

Instructions

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and main shade, cast on 62sts, and work in double rib for 4¾ inches.
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and continue until work measures 16½ inches.
Change back to No 11 needles and contrast colour, and work a further 2 inches.

Cast off loosely.

[Editor's note: You are working from the ankle upwards; you cast on for the bottom of the item and cast off at the top, so it needs to be loose.]

Stitch the seam using a flat seam technique.

Work a second legwarmer in the same way.

Materials

4 x 50g balls in main shade (orange) and 1 ball contrast colour (red)

Pair each No 11 (3mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

October 2011

Jacob's Sleeping Bag of Many Colours

JacobsBag.jpg

This is a vintage baby-bag pattern probably intended for babies up to 3 months in age. It's very simple to knit and fastened around the edge with easy poppers. It's tempting to knit this in beautiful, soft, lofty yarns - however, it does need to be washable, if not so very hard wearing.
OK - maybe not so many colours - but so cute!

Instructions

The striped pattern is worked as follows:

1st row: Knit in main shade
2nd - 11th rows: Knit in first contrast
12th row:
Knit in main shade
13th - 22nd rows: Knit in second contrast

These 22 rows are repeated to form the striped pattern.

Body

The body is worked in one piece; you start off knitting short, shaped pieces for the back and front separately then join them both onto one needle. The pattern as written should work out that the stripes match up when you join them together - make sure they do - and you may want to use a circular needle for the 86 stitches in chunky yarn.

Back:

With No 4 (6mm) needles and second contrast (Pink), cast on 25 sts and purl one row.
Then work in striped pattern as above, beginning with 4 rows in pink, 1 row in main (White), 9 rows in first contrast (Sky Blue) and at the same time, shape rows as follows:-

1st row(right side): Cast on 3, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast on 3, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
4th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
5th row: Cast on 2, knit to end.

Change to blue yarn for 9 rows:
6th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.
7th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.
8th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
9th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.
10th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
11th row: Knit
12th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
13th row: Knit
14th row: Inc in first st, purl to end. [45 sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
15th row: Knit.

Change to pink yarn and work in sts for 5 rows starting with a purl row.
Leave the sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.
[Editor's note: You have ended with right side facing about to start your 6th row in pink yarn.]

Front:

With No 4 (6mm) needles and first contrast (Sky Blue), cast on 23 sts and purl one row.
Then work in striped pattern as above, beginning with 6 rows in blue contrast, 1 row in main (White), and at the same time, shape rows as follows:-

1st row(right side): Cast on 3, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast on 3, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
4th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.
5th row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
6th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
7th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.

Change to pink yarn:
8th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
9th row: Knit
10th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
11th row: Knit
12th row: Inc in first st, purl to end. [41 sts]

[Editor's note: You have ended with right side facing about to start your 6th row in pink yarn.]

Right side facing, continuing in pink yarn, knit 41sts from front, and then 45 sts from back (stitches on holder). [86 sts]

Continue straight until work measures 20 inches (51cm) - (measure the back segment), ending with a wrong side row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 96-98 rows from start of back. End after 5 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 6th row in blue.]

Right side facing, tie coloured thread or place marker, between the 41st and 42nd sts and between the 84th and 85th sts.

Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4sts, work to end, and increase (cast on) 3 sts. [85sts]
Next row: Purl.

[Editor's note: You are now about to start the raglan shaping on the front, having completed 7 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 8th row in blue.]

Next row(right side facing and keeping striped sequence correct): Cast off 3 sts, k 33 (34sts on needle). Turn, leaving remaining 48sts on a spare needle.

2nd row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end. [32sts]
3rd row: Cast off 3sts, knit to end. [29sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
4th row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end. [27sts]

Change to pink yarn for 10 rows:
5th row(and every following knit row up to and including row 13): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
6th row(and every following purl row, up to and including row 14): Decrease 1 stitch, purl to end. [12sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
15th: Decrease 1 stitch, work to end. [11sts]

Change to blue yarn for rest of front:
16th -23rd rows (every row): Decrease 1 stitch, work to end. [3sts]
24th row (wrong side facing): Purl (no shaping).
25th row: Decrease 1 stitch, knit to end. [2sts]

The front should now measure 4¾ins (12cm) from beginning of raglan shaping, and 2 sts remain.
Cast off.

Back raglan shaping:

With right side facing, take up 43sts of the back and leave the remaing 5 sts at the end of the row on a holder.
[Editor's note: You are now about to start the raglan shaping on the back, having completed 7 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 8th row in blue.]

Keeping striped sequence correct work as follows: cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows, and one stitch at the beginning of the next 16 rows.
Cast off remaining 15 sts.

With right side facing, take up the remaining 5 sts on the holder, and keeping striped sequence correct work as follows:
[Editor's note: right side facing to begin 8th row of pattern in blue.]

1st row (right side facing): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
2nd row: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
4th row: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.

Change to pink yarn for 10 rows:
5th and every alternate row until row 13: Decrease 1 st, knit to end.
6th and every alternate row until row 12: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.
14th row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end.

Change to blue yarn to complete:
15th - 22nd row (every row): Decrease 1 st, work to end.
23rd row: Knit
24th row:
Decrease 1 st, purl to end.
25th row: Knit
26th row: Decrease 1 st, purl to end.

The work should now measure 4¾ins (12cm) from beginning of raglan shaping, and 2 sts remain.
Cast off.

Here's a photo of what it looks like (Figure 1):

 

Sleeves:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 26sts. and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib, ending with a wrong side row.

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and striped stocking stitch starting with 1 row of main shade (White). Then work in blue as follows:

2nd - 10th row: Stocking stitch in blue yarn
11th row: Knit in blue increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [28sts]

12th row: Purl one row in white.

13th - 20th row: Stocking stitch in blue yarn
21st row: Knit in blue increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [30sts]
22nd row: Purl one row in blue.

23rd row: Knit one row in white.

Work 7 rows straight in blue. Work measures 7ins (18cm), ending with right side facing to start raglan shaping.
[Editor's note: Make sure that the pattern sequence matches that of back and front at start of raglan shaping.]

Shape raglan by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 1st at each end of every following 3rd row, twice, 6 sts remain.

Cast off.

Hood

With No 4 (6mm) needles and first contrast, cast on 17 sts and work in striped pattern starting with 3 rows of the first contrast.
Continue following the striped sequence until work measures until work measures 6¾ins (17cm), ending with wrong side row, and 6 rows of second contrast.

Cast on 22sts at the beginning of the next right side row. [39 sts]

Continue straight until work measures until work measures 11½ins (29cm), ending with wrong side row, and 2 rows of second contrast.

Cast off 22sts at the beginning of the next right side row. [17 sts]

Continue straight until work measures until work measures 18ins (46cm), ending with wrong side row, and 2 rows of first contrast.

Cast off.

Here's a photo showing how the hood looks (Figure 2):

 

Front and Hood Band:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 211sts and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib, arranged as follows:

1st row: K2 * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: P2 * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch; p1.

End with a wrong side row.

Next row: Knit and leave sts on a holder.

To Make Up

Sew up sleeve seams, and sew raglan seams together.
The left sleeve front seam is from F to Sl and the back seam is from G to Sl; the 6 cast-off sts of the sleeve head sits between F and G (refer back to Figure 1); likewise the right sleeve is set in H-Sr and A-Sr, and the right sleeve head sits between H and A.

Sew up hood seams, bringing together points G and H to make the hood shape as shown in Figure 2 and then sew the back of the hood to the back neck of the body between points G and H in Figure 1.
Sew the left side of the hood from G to F across top of sleeve head and then across to E ending about an inch away from the point E.
Sew the right side of the hood from H to A across top of sleeve head and then a further 2 inches or so down towards B.

With No 6 (5mm) hook and main shade work 2 rows dc along edge of sleeping bag back from E to D and all around to C (refer back to Figure 1), working tightly across the bottom of the back section so that it is slightly gathered and curls up to form the bottom of the bag.
[Editor's note: You also need to work tightly and gather up the corner between E and D near Sl in figure 1.]

Here's a photo of the bottom section of the back of the bag (Figure 3):

Sew on front and hood band stitch by stitch from C all around to A and then around edge of hood from A to E fitting the edge of the band into the corner by the edge of the hood, at point E.

Sew on snap fasteners evenly from C to D to E on right side of work and from A to B to C on wrong side edge of front.

Press all seams heartily. (That is: carefully with a damp cloth).

Sew on decorative buttons if required.

Materials

3 x 50g balls chunky yarn in main colour, (this is the colour of the edging and narrow stripes), and 4 balls each in 2 contrast collours.

A pair each of No 6 (5mm) and a No 4 (6mm) needles.
One No 6 (5mm) crochet hook.

10-12 x 17mm snap fasteners

9 optional decorative buttons.

Tension

13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round: 25 ins, (64cm); Length from back neck: 25½ ins (65cm).

Abbreviations

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English double crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The chunky yarn knits to a tension of tension 13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch.
You can substitute an Aran weight yarn knitted double throughout, (check your tension with a swatch).

I used King Cole Comfort Chunky (100g balls) - 2 balls of each in colours: soft pink, ice, and white.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

 

May 2009

Polka Dots in wool and cotton

PolkaDotTop.jpg

I really liked the look of this top from the 1980s. I thought it would suit me, as it is sleeveless, and suitable to team with wide pants (as were popular in the eighties - and I am told are suitable for my current age and shape!).
The original was made in a flecked wool, and I did not notice that it was dotted all over. So having made the discovery of the dots, I like it even more.
The dots add to the complexity when knitting, but the shape is very simple and quick to knit.

Instructions.

This pattern is worked in several sections including intarsia techniques, (to insert the vertical colour for the cable stripes); and jaquard (to make the dots).

For the cables, and edge stitches, do not strand yarn across wrong side of work, but use separate balls: this will be 2 bobbins for the Navy cables and 2 bobbins for the Citron edge stitches. Twist the colours on wrong side where they meet to avoid a hole.

Use your main ball of wool for the centre section in Citron (main shade), again twisting it where it meets the navy cable bobbin.
When working the row of coloured dots join in and break off the navy at the beginning and end of the row.

Here is a picture of the wrong side of the work:

[ Editor's note: Yes this does mean you have to sew in all those ends ]    

Back:

With No 10 needles and contrast colour, cast on 70 [74, 78, 86, 90, 94, 102, 106, 114] sts and work in K2, P2 rib for 3 [3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6] cm, (rows on right side having K2) at each end.

End with right side facing for next row and increase 1 st at end of last row (71 [75, 79, 87, 91, 95, 103, 107, 115] sts).
Change to No 8 needles and work in cables and colour pattern as follows:
1st Row: (Right side facing) K3 in main shade (M) from bobbin, k6 in contrast (C) from bobbin, knit in main shade ball to last 9 sts; k6 in C from bobbin, k3 in M from bobbin.
2nd Row: K3 in M, p6 in C; change to main shade ball M and k3, purl to last 12 sts; k3; p6 in C, k3, in M.
3rd Row: (Make row of dots) K3 in M, k6 in C; then for centre section:
k3 in M; *p3 in M, put M yarn to back of work; join in C and, using your separate strand of contrast, k1 in C, then bring M forward again for your next purl stitch; repeat from * (stranding the unused yarn colour across the back of the work) to last 15 sts, break off separate strand of contrast C; p3 in M, k3 in M, k6 in C, K3 in M.
4th Row: as second
5th Row: as first
6th Row: as second
7th Row: (Make row of dots and cable) K3 in M, C6F in C; then for centre section:
k3 in M; *p1 in M, put M yarn to back of work; join in C and, using your separate strand of contrast, k1 in C, then bring M forward again p2 in M; repeat from * (stranding the unused yarn colour across the back of the work as before) to last 15 sts; p1 in M, put M yarn to back of work, k1 in C, bring M forward again p1 in M; k3 in M, C6B in C, K3 in M.
8th Row: as second

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until back measures 34 [37, 41, 43, 46, 48, 49, 51, 51] cm, ending with right side facing for next row.
Shape shoulders by casting off 11 [12, 13, 9, 10, 12, 11, 12, 13] sts at beg of next 2 rows, then cast off 12 [12,12, 10,10,10,12, 12, 13] sts at beg of next 2 [2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows.
Leave remaining 25 [27, 29, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35, 37] sts on a spare needle.

Front:

Work as for back until front measures 26 [29, 33, 35, 37, 39, 39, 41,41] cm, ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of the pattern, divide for neck as follows:

Pattern 33 [35, 37, 41, 43, 45, 49, 51, 55] sts, k2tog, turn and leave remaining sts on a spare needle.

Continue on these 34 [36, 38, 42, 44, 46, 50, 52, 56] sts for first side, decrease 1 stitch at neck edge on every row until 30 [30, 30, 34, 38, 40, 40, 42, 44 ] sts remain, then on every alt row until 23 [24, 25, 29, 30, 32, 35, 36, 39] sts remain.
Work straight until Front matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.
Cast off 11 [12, 13, 9, 10, 12, 11, 12, 13] sts at beg of next row.
Work 1 row.

1st, 2nd, and 3rd sizes:
Cast off remaining 12 sts.

4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th and 9th sizes:
Cast off [10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 13]sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.

All sizes:
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining sts, cast off centre st, k2tog, pattern to end.
Work to match first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Do not press.

Join right shoulder seam.

Left Neck Border:

With right side facing, using No 10 needles and Contrast, knit up 30 [30, 30, 34, 38, 38, 42, 42, 42] sts down left side of neck and work 7 [7,9, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11] rows in p2, k2 rib, rows on wrong side having a p2 at each end. Cast off evenly in rib.

Right Neck Border:

With right side facing, using No 10 needles and Contrast, starting at centre front, knit up 30 [30, 30, 34, 38, 38, 42, 42, 42] sts to shoulder. Knit across 25 [27, 29, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35, 37] sts from back of neck increasing 3 [1, 3, 3, 1, 1, 3, 1, 3] sts evenly (58 [58, 62, 66, 70, 70, 78, 78, 82] sts).
Work 7 [7, 9, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11] rows in P2, K2 rib, rows on wrong side having P2 at each end. Cast off evenly in rib.

Join left shoulder, then sew border in position, placing right over left.
Join side seams leaving 14 [15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24] cm down from shoulder free for armhole.
[ Editor's note: This is how I have sewn the side seams, but I have noticed that some of the latest designs sew the side seams only at the welt, leaving most of the side open, with a view to wearing a top like this layered over a sleeveless summer dress.]

Press seams.

Sew on button at neck.
[ Editor's note: The button is decorative only and may be omitted if desired.]

Materials

Pure wool double knitting 50g balls: 2 [3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] in main shade, and, 1 [1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] in contrast.
A pair each of No 8 and 10 needles; (4mm and 3¼mm).

Cable needle.

1 button.

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest/bust 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38,40] inches; length from top of shoulders 13½ [14½, 16, 17, 18, 19, 19½, 20, 20] inches.
The size I knitted is highlighted in bold red, and is close fitting on me (UK size 12).

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was a pure wool double knitting, yardage 120m per 50g ball.

I used Rowan Wool Cotton to make it more summery, but the yardage on wool cotton is somewhat less at 113m per 50g ball.

Main shade is 901 Citron, and, contrast is 909 French Navy.

Abbreviations:

C6F: slip next 3 sts on cable needle and leave at front of work, k3, then k3 from cable needle.
C6B: slip next 3 sts on cable needle and leave at back of work, k3 then k3 from cable needle.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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