Pattern of the Month

Instructions.

Instructions for 2 sizes, larger size in brackets. If there is only one set of figures, it applies to both sizes.

Three separate panel pattern stitches are described below, and the overall instructions tell you about the shape and construction, and how you combine the panels together to make up the back, front, and sleeves.

Pattern 1: basic half fisherman's rib

[Editor's note: Whether or not you are familiar with fisherman's rib or brioche, it should be quite easy to pick up this half fisherman's rib from the instructions below.
However, you always have to be careful when increasing and decreasing, in that the stitch and the yarn-over that you purl together on the right side rows, always count as only one stitch.]

Worked over an odd number of stitches, using No 7 (4½mm) needles.

1st Row (right side): k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd Row (wrong side): * slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn over needle, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn over
needle.
3rd Row (right side): knit the first stitch together with the yarn over needle; * p1, knit next stitch together with yarn over needle, repeat from * to end.

Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows to form the pattern.

Patter 2: basic cable pattern

Worked over 9 stitches, using No 7 (4½mm) needles.

1st Row (right side): p2, k5, p2,
2nd Row: k2, p5, k2.
3rd Row: p2; cross 5 stitches to the right by slipping 3 stitches on to the cable needle and leaving at the back of the work, k2, then k3 stitches from cable needle - or alternatively cross 5 stitches to the
left by slipping 2 stitches on to the cable needle and leaving at the front of the work, k3, then k2 stitches from cable needle; p2.
[Editor's Note: The cables cross the the right on one side of the sweater and to the left on the other.]
4th Row: as 2nd row.
5th Row: as 1st row.
6th Row: as 2nd row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Pattern 3: cables with half fisherman's rib pattern

Worked over 27 stitches, using No 7 (4½mm) needles.
Stagger the pattern at the right side to the right, and at left side to the
left, (mirror images).

Rows 1-12: 9 stitches as per the cable pattern , 9 stitches in half fisherman's rib, 9 stitches as per the the cable.
Rows 13-16 (right half): 18 stitches in half fisherman's rib, then 9 stitches for the cable - or -
Rows 13-16 (left half): 9 stitches for the cable, then and 18 stitches in half fisherman's rib.
Rows 17-51: stagger the cable pattern on every alternate row by 1 stitch to the right or to the left as follows:

To the right: Purl the first purl stitch of the cable together with preceding stitch of the half fisherman's rib, and after the 5 knit stitches of the cable, increase 1 stitch purlwise, inserting the right-hand needle into the loop at the front of next stitch, p1, then work the last purl stitch of the cable in half fisherman's rib (starting with 1 purl stitch of the half fisherman's rib).
To the left: work the first purl stitch of the cable as a half fisherman's rib stitch, (starting with 1 purl stitch of the half fisherman's rib), p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, by inserting right-hand needle into the loop at the front of the next stitch. Purl the last stitch of the cable together with next stitch of the half fisherman's rib.

Rows 53 and 54 (right half): work 9 stitches for the cable, then 18 stitches in half fisherman's rib - or -
Rows 53 and 54 (left half): work 18 stitches in half fisherman's rib, then 9 stitches for the cable.

These 54 rows form pattern.

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 100 (108) stitches and work 3¼ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 21 stitches evenly across the last row. [121 (129) sts]

Change to No 7 (4½ mm) needles and continue as follows for the foundation row:
Foundation row: K1 edge stitch, work 7 (11) stitches in half fisherman's rib (pattern 1); work 9 stitches for the cable (pattern 2), work 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; work 27 stitches in pattern 3; then 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; work 9 stitches for the cable, then 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib (these 3 are the centre stitches) -
[Editor's Note: Now work the other half as a mirror image as below:]
- work 9 stitches for the cable; 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; 27 stitches in pattern 3; 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; 9 stitches for the cable, and finally 7 (11) stitches in half fisherman's rib (pattern 1); k1 edge stitch.

Cross straight cables and diagonal cables (pattern 3) on the right side to the right and on the left side to the left.
When work measures 15 inches, shape armholes: cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
[109 (117) sts]

Keeping in line with the patterns, continue straight until work measures 26 inches, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape neck:
Next row: work 40 (44) stitches in pattern.
Turn, and leaving the remaining stitches on a holder.
Complete this side first.

At the neck edge cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 alternate rows.
At the same time, shape shoulder: by casting off 12 (13) stitches at the armhole edge on every alternate row twice, then 12 (14) stitches once.

With right side of work facing, slip first 29 stitches on to holder for centre back neck, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and work pattern to end.
Complete to match the first side, reversing shaping.

Front:

Proceed as for back until work measures 24 inches ending with the right side facing for the next row.

Shape neck:
Next row: work 45 (49) stitches in pattern.
Turn, and leaving the remaining stitches on a holder.
Complete this side first.

At the neck edge on every alternate row, cast off 3 stitches once, 2 stitches once, and 1 stitch 4 times.

When work measures 26 inches, shape shoulder, by casting off 12 (13) stitches at the armhole edge on every alternate row twice, then 12 (14) stitches once.

With right side of work facing, slip first 19 stitches on to a holder for the centre front neck.
Rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches and work in pattern to end.

Complete to match first side, reversing shaping.

Sleeves (both alike):

Cast on 45 stitches.
Work work 3¼ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 20 stitches evenly across the last row. [65 sts]

Continue in basic patterns as follows:

Foundation row: K1 edge stitch, work 9 stitches in half fisherman's rib (pattern 1); work 9 stitches for the cable (pattern 3 - stagger this cable to the right), work 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; work 9 stitches for the cable (pattern 2), then 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib (these 3 are the centre stitches) -
[Editor's Note: Now work the other half as a mirror image as below:]
- work 9 stitches for the cable; 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; 9 stitches (pattern 3 - stagger this cable to the left); 9 stitches in half fisherman's rib (pattern 1); k1 edge stitch.

Stagger cables at right side to the right, at left side to the left.

At the same time, increase 1 stitch at each of every 5th row 18 times, then 1 stitch on every 4th row 6 times [113 sts]

At first, increase the pattern 3 section to the sides, then work 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib, 9 stitches for the cable, then remaining stitches in half fisherman's rib.
[Editor's Note: This is to give you sufficient stitches to continue to stagger the cables.]
When work measures 21 inches shape top, by casting off 4 stitches at each end of every alternate row 4 times.
Cast off remaining stitches

To make up:

Join all seams and sew sleeves in position.
Using the circular needle, pick up and knit about 100 stitches around the neck, and work 5 inches in rib pattern.
Fold band in half to the wrong side and sew in position.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:

8 (9) x 50g balls at 100m per ball
[Editor's Note: This is a fairly long yardage for this yarn weight.]

One pair each of Nos 11 (3mm) and 7 (4½mm) needles.
One 3mm x 40cm circular needle.

Tension

19sts x 24 rows to 4 inches in stocking stitch using No 7 (4½mm) needles.

20sts x 26 rows worked over pattern stitches on No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

40-42 / 44-46 inches
[Actual size about
47 / 50 inches]

Abbreviations:

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together
p2tog: decrease by purling 2 stitches together

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was a thickish but lofty tweed Aran weight yarn: 50% wool mix with acrylic and 15% flax. Approximately 100m to 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

These are simple fairly flat toys in the shape of a big and little cat.
The concept is that you knit the cat in a block shape, then use their diagram to make a pattern and to sew it into the cat shape, (head, legs etc) - then turn inside out and stuff. However, I cannot see how this would work unless you cut the knitting prior to turning inside out. So I have provided charts with a few rudimentary instructions so you can create a shaped toy, which should be easier to sew together.
I think you need to keep the toy fairly flat when you stuff it, as the neck will be a point of weakness - I think, regardless, it will tend to flop.

Notes on the yarn:
Knitting two strands of DK together (for the cats) would normally produce a more chunky weight combined yarn; however they have used fairly small needles which should give a firmer texture - this is desirable for a stuffed toy - more like an Aran or worsted weight tension. You could use a single strand of chunky yarn, provided you can achieve the right tension on 3¾mm needles.
They have used one strand of mohair yarn to give a fluffy texture - take care if you consider substituting the two strands with a single strand of chunky mohair yarn, as typically these yarns are designed to be knitted loosely, and would probably be hard to knit on smaller needles as well as maybe not producing a satisfactory result. [A fluffy synthetic might work.]

Notes on the size:
Normally for a toy, the tension is less important - you just need to be consistent. However in this case, Kitty has some clothes which are knitted in 4ply fingering yarn, so you need to be sure they will fit him if you choose to vary the yarn/tension for the cat.

Big Cat Body (2 pieces)

[Editor's note: If you are working from my charts - given at the end - they replace these instructions for the body.]

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using one strand of the white fluffy yarn and one strand of double knitting both together, cast on 34 stitches. Work in stocking stitch for 5 inches, then shape the arms, by casting on 10 stitches at each end of the next 2 rows.

Continue in stocking stitch on 54 stitches until work measures 16½ inches.
Cast off.

Make a second piece in the same way.

Big Cat Ears (make 2)

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using one strand of the white fluffy yarn and one strand of double knitting both together, cast on 16 stitches and work 4¾ inches in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Make second ear the same way.

Big Cat Trousers (make 2)

Using 3¼mm (No 10) needles, and using the yellow 4ply, cast on 21 stitches and purl one row on the right side of the work, then work in stocking stitch (starting with a purl row on the wrong side).

When work measures ½ an inch, increase 1 stitch at one edge.

When work measure ¾ an inch, ending with right side facing, place the stitches on a holder and break yarn.

Make an identical piece as a mirror image, working the increased stitch on the opposite side of the work. Put both pieces on the same needle, and knit across, increasing 2 stitches between the two pieces. [46 sts]

Continue in stocking stitch, and when work measures 3 inches, with right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 stitches, k2togtbl k2.
Next row: k2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Repeat these last two rows 3 times more, keeping the 2 stitches at each edge in garter stitch. [32 sts]

Continue in stocking stitch with the garter stitch borders until work measures 5 inches.
Next row: k11, p10 stitches, k11.
Next row: p11, k10 stitches, p11.
Next row: k11, cast off 10 stitches, k11.

Work the two straps separately, working decreases at the neck edge:
Next row (right strap wrong side facing on 11 stitches): k2, p5, p2tog, k2
Next row: k2, k2tog, k4, k2.
Next row: k2, p5, k2
Next row: k2, k2tog, k4, k2.
Next row: k2, p4, k2
Next row: k2, k2tog, k3, k2.
Next row: k2, p3, k2
Next row: k2, k2tog, k3, k2.
Next row: k2, p2, k2

When work measures about 6½ inches, cast off.
Work the other strap to match, reversing shaping.

Make a second identical piece.

Big Cat Tail (make 1)

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using one strand of the white fluffy yarn and one strand of double knitting both together, cast on 4 stitches and knit 2 rows. Continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Work 2 rows straight, then decrease 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.
Thread yarn around the outside of the tail.

Big Cat Bow (make 1)

Using 3¼mm (No 10) needles, and using the yellow 4ply, cast on 12 stitches and work in stocking stitch.

When work measures 2½ inches, purl 1 row on the right side of the work; continue in stocking stitch, and when work measures 7 inches, purl another row on the right side of the work.
When work measures 9½ inches, cast off.

Rucksack

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using 2 strands of the red 4ply together, cast on 28 stitches and purl 1 row on the right side of the work. Then work in stocking stitch, but keep 2 stitches at each side in garter stitch to make a border.

When work measures 8½ inches, purl 1 row on the right side of the work, and cast off.

Materials

3 x 50g balls white mohair or fluffy double knitting equivalent.
[Approximately 120m per ball]

2 x 50g balls white smooth double knitting [approx. 125m per ball]
and small amounts of black and blue (for nose and eyes).

4ply (for the clothes) 1 x ball red and 1 ball yellow. [Approximately 183m per ball]
[Editor's note: The yellow yarn is to make the trousers for both cats and the red is knitted double for the back pack; I think I can say with confidence that you won't need as much as a 50g ball in order to make them.The back pack could probably be made with almost an oddment of single stranded Aran/worsted yarn.]

3¼mm (No 10) and 3¾mm (No 9) needles.
[US sizes 4 and 5]

2 red buttons

Stuffing.

Tension

For the DK:
22 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch using a single thread on 3½mm needles.

For the 4ply :
27 sts x 35 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch using a single thread on 3mm needles.

For the two strands of DK knitted together (the cats): 18 sts x 24 rows knitted on 3¾mm needles - estimated from the instructions.

Size matters

Large cat designed to measure:
16 inches

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops (also known as "slip, slip, knit").

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

garter stitch: all rows knitted.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Kitten Body (2 pieces)

[Editor's note: If you are working from my charts - given at the end - they replace these instructions for the body.]

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using one strand of the white fluffy yarn and one strand of double knitting both together, cast on 16 stitches. Work in stocking stitch for 2 inches, then shape the arms, by casting on 5 stitches at each end of the next 2 rows.

Continue in stocking stitch on 26 stitches until work measures 6 inches.
Cast off.

Make a second piece in the same way.

Kitten Ears (make 2)

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using one strand of the white fluffy yarn and one strand of double knitting both together, cast on 8 stitches and work 2½ inches in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Make second ear the same way.

Kitten Trousers (make 2)

Using 3¼mm (No 10) needles, and using the yellow 4ply, cast on 11 stitches and purl one row on the right side of the work, then work in stocking stitch (starting with a purl row on the wrong side).

When work measures ½ an inch, place the stitches on a holder.

Make an identical piece, and put both pieces on the same needle, increasing 2 stitches between the two pieces. [24 sts]

When work measures 2 inches, with right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Then work 2 stitches at each edge in garter stitch, and decrease 1 stitch every alternate row inside garter stitch border 2 times.

When work measures 4¾ inches, purl 2 rows on the centre 6 stitches. Cast off the centre 6 stitches for the neck, and work the two side of the work separately.
Keeping the 2 stitches at each neck edge in garter stitch.
At each neck edge of every other row, decrease 1 stitch between border and stocking stitch once, 1 stitch 3 times.
When work measures 3 inches, cast off.

Make a second identical piece.

Kitten Tail (make 1)

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using one strand of the white fluffy yarn and one strand of double knitting both together, cast on 2 stitches and work in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each edge on every alternate row twice.
Work 2 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 1 stitch at each edge on every alternate row twice.
Cast off remaining stitches.
Thread yarn around the outside of the tail.

To Make Up

For each cat:
Make a pattern following the measurements on the diagrams.
[Editor's note: If you have created a shaped cat following my charts, then this step should not be necessary.]
Place pieces right sides together.
Sew around outline of body, leaving an opening to turn inside out.
Turn right side out and stuff.
Sew opening closed.

Work the same for the ears, without stuffing, and sew in place.

Fold the bow at purl rows, and roughly catch together cast on and cast off edges, so you have a rectangle 7 inches wide. Gather in the middle by winding and securing a length of yarn around (see picture).

Gather the yarn at outside edges of tail, stuff, and sew seams.
[Editor's note: The tails seem to be little round balls rather than normal cat tails - see picture.]
Attach the tails to the bodies.
[Editor's note: I think you need to attach the tails on top of the trousers (making them not removable), unless you already thought ahead and created a hole in the back of the trousers for them to poke through.]

The eyes, whiskers and nose are embroidered as shown in the picture.

Sew seams of trousers, sewing in ends, and put on the cats.
Sew 2 buttons on the straps of trousers of big cat.

Fold the rucksack in half and sew seams at the sides.
Make 2 cords in red and sew to the corners of the rucksack.

Place bow on front of big cat's ear.
Sew a little white cord on top of each head (optional).
Slip kitten in rucksack. Sew in place to back of big cat for security.

Additional Charts for cat bodies and rudimentary instructions

To make one side of the bodies begin by casting on the number of stitches shown for one leg (14 for Cat; 6 for kitten) and increase one stitch at each end of the first row. Work the number of rows shown in stocking stitch (12 for Cat; 4 for kitten). Make a second leg.
Place both pieces of work on one needle, and work across all stitches, casting on 2 stitches between the legs.
Then work the number of rows and stitches shown on the charts, increasing and decreasing as required. Where you need to cast on stitches you need to do that across 2 rows (which I haven't shown); where you need to increase 2 stitches at each end of a row, you can do that by knitting three times into the first and last stitches, or by casting on 2 stitches at the beginning of every row until you have the right number of stitches - but make sure you work the right number of rows overall as shown on the charts.

Instructions

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

Back

Using 3 mm needles and white yarn, cast on 99 (105, 111) stitches and work in rib:
1st row (right side): p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 8½ (8¾, 9) inches [21 (22, 23) cm] from beginning, ending with a row 1 of rib pattern.

Next row (increase): Rib 4 (8, 10); [increase in the next stitch, rib 8 (10, 14)] 10 (8, 6) times; increase in the next stitch, rib 4 (8, 10).
[1110 (114, 118) sts]

Change to 4½ mm needles and blue colour yarn.
Working in stocking stitch (1 row plain, one row purl), beginning with a knit row, work 26 (28, 30) rows in blue, then work the striped pattern of * 26 rows white, 26 rows blue *.
Repeat from to * to * once, then work another 26 rows in white.
Now continue in blue until work measures 35 (36, 36½) inches, [89 (91, 93) cm ] from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Neck and Shoulders by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
5th row: Cast off 8, knit until there are 11 (12, 13) stitches on the right needle, and leave these for the right back; cast off the next 40 (42, 44) stitches, knit to end.
Continue on these last 19 (20, 21) stitches which now remain at the end of the needle for left back.
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next row and 3 stitches at neck edge on the following row.
Cast off the remaining 8 (9, 10) stitches to complete shoulder slope.

Rejoin the blue yarn to the neck edge of the right back stitches, and cast off 3; purl to end.
Cast off the remaining 8 (9, 10) stitches.

Front

Work as for back until 12 rows fewer have been worked than on back to beginning of shoulder shaping, thus ending with a purl row.

Next row: knit 46 (47, 48) and leave these stitches on a spare needle for the left front. Cast off the next 18 (20, 22) stitches, knit to end.

Continue working the right front on the 46 (47, 48) stitches now remaining on the needle and work 1 row.
** Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row; 2 stitches at the same edge on the next 4 alternate rows; and 1 stitch on next alternate
row.

Continue to decrease at the neck edge on next 2 alternate rows, but,
at the same time, cast off for the shoulder 8 stitches at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row then cast off the remaining 8 (9, 10) stitches.

Rejoin yarn to the neck edge of the left front stitches, and complete as for right front from to ** to end.

Sleeves

Using 4½ mm needles and white cast on 68 (72, 76) stitches, and begin working in stocking stitch (no rib welt).
Work 26 (28, 30) rows in white, and then 26 (28, 30) rows in blue.

Change to white and increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 3rd row, 25 times, at same time continuing in the striped sequence of 26 rows white, 26 rows blue, and 26 rows white.
Cast off these 118 (122, 126) rows stitches.

Making up and neck border

Join the right shoulder seam.

Neck border:
With right side of work facing and using 3 mm needles and blue yarn, pick up and knit 60 (62, 64) stitches around front neck edge and 49
(51, 53) stitches across the back neck. [109 (113, 117) sts]
Beginning with a 2nd row, work in rib for 5 rows, then cast off loosely in rib.

Join the left shoulder seam and ends of neck border.
Pin cast-off edge of sleeves to sides of sweater placing the centre of the sleeve level with the shoulder seam and ensuring that the sides of the sleeves reach to the same position of the pattern at each side.
Sew in place and then join side and sleeve seams, matching stripes. Fold up the first stripe on the sleeve to the wrong side forming a deep hem and slip-stitch in place.

[Editor's note: You can see in the photo that the sleeve is worn rolled up to the right side, forming a cuff.]

Materials

DK equivalent cotton yarn, 50g balls:
9 (10, 11) in white
6 (7, 8) in navy blue

One pair each of No 11 (3mm) and No 7 (4½mm ) needles.

Tension

21 sts x 26 rows to 4 inches on 4½mm needles

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 (34, 36) inches;
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Abbreviations:

k: knit
p: purl
increase: knit twice into next stitch.
decrease: knit two stitches together.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a 100% cotton with a tension on the ball band indicating a light weight double knitting yarn. For this pattern it's more loosely knitted on 4½mm needles, giving more of an aran or worsted weight tension.
The quoted yardage was 100 meters, (110 yds), per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

One Size only.
Note: Carry colours not in use loosely up side of work.
B: Main shade (blue); G: 1st contrast (grey); W: 2nd contrast (white).

Left Side

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade Blue (B), cast on 116 stitches and noting that 1st row is a wrong side row, work 7 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).

Change to No 7 (4½mm ) needles and continue in garter stitch and stripes of 6 rows 1st Contrast Grey (G), 4 rows 2nd Contrast White (W) and 8 rows main shade Blue (B), until work measures 7 inches, ending with the right side facing for the next row.

Keeping continuity of stripes, shape armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until 66 stitches remain.

Work 2 rows.
Cast off.

Right Side

Work as for Left Side but shaping the armhole by decreasing at the end of the rows instead of the beginning.

Making up and borders

Do not press.
Using a flat seam, join the straight side edges to form the centre back seam.

Arm Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 (3¼mm) needles
and B, knit up 84 stitches along the shaped edges.
Work 6 rows garter stitch.
Cast off.

Fold Arm Borders in half (right sides inside) so that the short side edges meet the cast-off edges.
Join these edges together with a fine back-stitch seam.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting yarn, 25% wool , 75% acrylic. For this pattern it's loosely knitted on 4½mm needles.

Materials

DK 50g balls:
3 in main shade
2 in 1st contrast
1 in 2nd contrast

One pair each of No 10 (3¼mm) and No 7 (4½mm ) needles.

Tension

21 sts x 28 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on 4½mm needles

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 (34, 36) inches
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Back and Front (alike)

Using 4½mm needles, and W (white yarn), cast on 67 (71, 73, 77) stitches, and work 2 (2, 2½, 2½) inches in k1, p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for increase row.

Next row (increase - wrong side facing): rib 5 (7, 5, 7) * increase in next stitch; rib 7 (7, 8, 8); repeat from * to last 6 (8, 5, 7) stitches; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [75, 79, 81, 85 sts].

Change to 5½ mm needles.
Joining on and cutting off colours as required, proceed in pattern as follows, noting that stitches increased on Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 are decreased to the original number on Rows 4, 6, 8, 10 and 14.

Row 1 (right side): knit with main shade W (white).
Row 2: Using W, p4 (6, 7, 9); [k 13, p5] 3 times; k13, p4 (6, 7, 9).
Row 3: Using W, k2 (4, 5, 7); [yfwd, k 17, yfwd, k1] 3 times; yfwd, k 17, yfwd, k2 (4, 5, 7).
Row 4: Using W, p5 (7, 8, 10), [k5, k3tog, k5, p7] 3 times; k5, k3tog, k5, p5 (7, 8, 10).
Row 5: Using W, k3 (5, 6, 8); [yfwd, k15, yfwd, k3] 3 times; yfwd, k15, yfwd. k3 (5, 6, 8).
Row 6: Using W, p6 (8, 9, 11); [k4, k3tog; k4, p9] 3 times; k4, k3tog, k4, p6 (8, 9, 11).
Row 7: Using W, k4 (6, 7, 9), [yfwd, k 13, yfwd, k5) 3 times, yfwd, k13, yfwd,. k4 (6, 7, 9).
Row 8: Using W, p7 (9, 10, 12), [k3, k3tog, k3, p11] 3 times, k3, k3tog, k3, p7 (9, 10, 12).
Row 9: Using R (red yarn), k5 (7, 8, 10); [yfwd, k11, yfwd, k7] 3 times, yfwd, k11, yfwd, k5 (7, 8, 10).
Row 10: Using R, p8 (10, 11, 13); [k2, k3tog, k2, p13) 3 times; k2, k3tog, k2, p8 (10, 11, 13).
Row 11: Using W, k6 (8, 9, 11); [yfwd, k9] 7 times; yfwd, k6 (8, 9, 11).
Row 12: Using W, p9 (11, 12, 14), [k1, k3tog, k1, p15] 3 times, k1, k3tog, k1, p9 (11, 12, 14).
Row 13: Using W, k7 (9, 10, 12), [yfwd, k7, yfwd, k11] 3 times, yfwd, k7, yfwd, k7 (9, 10, 12).
Row 14: Using W, p10 (12, 13, 15), [k3tog, p17] 3 times; k3tog, p10 (12, 13, 15).

Editors note: Now you repeat the same pattern sections but change the colours.

Rows 15 to 22: As Rows 1 to 8 but use R instead of W.
Rows 23 and 24: As Rows 9 and 10 but use N instead of R.
Rows 25 to 28: As Rows 11 to 14 but use R instead of W.
Rows 29 to 36: As Rows 1 to 8 but use N instead of W.
Rows 37 and 38: As Rows 9 and 10 but use W instead of R.
Rows 39 to 42: As Rows 11 to 14 but use N instead of W.

These 42 Rows form the pattern repeat them once more, then work Rows 1 to 14 again.
Now work Rows 1 to 14 once more. Cut off B and C.
Work 5 Rows in rib.
Cast off in rib.

Sleeves

Using 4½mm needles, and W, cast on 37 (37, 39, 39) stitches, and work 2 (2, 2½, 2½) inches in k1, p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for increase row.

Next row (increase - wrong side facing): rib 2; [m1; increase in the next stitch] 5 times; rib 2; [increase in the next stitch] 8 (8, 9, 9) times; [m1; increase in the next stitch] 6 times; rib 2; [increase in the next stitch] 8 (8, 9, 9) times; rib to end. [75, 75, 79, 79 sts]

Change to 5½ mm needles.
Following instructions for the 1st (1st, 2nd, 2nd) sizes work the 42 pattern rows as for the Back twice, then work rows 1 to 14 again.
Cast off.

To Make Up

See the yarn ball band for washing and pressing details.

Join shoulder seams leaving approximately 9 (9½, 9½, 10) inches open at the centre for the neck.
Mark depth of armholes 8¾ (8¾, 9¼, 9¼) inches down from the shoulders on the back and front.
Set the sleeves in between the markers, then join the side and sleeve seams.

Materials

Chunky yarn:
6 (6, 6, 7) x 50g balls in main colour Snowdrop (white);
3 (3, 3, 3) balls in Grenadier (red); and
2 (3, 3, 3) balls in Navy (dark blue).

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm) and No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Tension

17sts and 24 rows to 4 inches over pattern stitch.

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
35 (37, 38, 40) inches.
Editors note: This is intended to be a loose fit to suit a 32 - 38 inch chest size.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the strand of yarn before the next stitch and knit into the back of it.
k3tog: knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was:
65% Acrylic
20% Wool
15% Nylon - yardage not given

Note that chunky yarns can cover a wide variation in thickness so check your tension and alter the needle size if necessary.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

[Editor's note: If you are not familiar with fisherman rib stitch or brioche worked with two colours, it should be quite easy to pick up from the instructions below, once you understand that you do two rows with right side facing (one in each colour) and then two wrong side rows (one in each colour) - hence the need for double-pointed needles.
There is however a big BUT - which is that you do have to careful when increasing and decreasing, so it might be a good idea to practise a little before you start. On the other hand, by the time you get to the shaping, you should be adept enough to see and understand the way the stitches are formed - just make sure by counting a couple of times that you have actually decreased the stitches where required.]

Striped Fisherman Rib Pattern

The two-colour brioche pattern has to be worked on needles or circular with points at both ends.

1st row (right side): With B, k1; * p1, slip1pw, yrn; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

2nd row (right side): With A, k1; yft, slip1pw, * yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, yft, slip1pw; repeat from * to last stitch, yon, k1.
3rd row (wrong side): With B, k1, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, * yft, slip1pw, yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

4th row (wrong side): With A, k1, yft, * slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, slip1pw, yon, k1.
5th row (right side): With B, k1, yft, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, * slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

The last 4 rows from 2nd to 5th inclusive, form the pattern.

Important notes on the brioche pattern:

• When counting the number of stitches, do not count the "made" loops as stitches, as they will be knitted together with the adjacent stitch.
• When counting rows, each knit rib which you can see counts as 2 rows.
• When casting off stitches at the top of the back and centre front, take care to cast off loosely in single rib as the stitches appear and either knit or purl the "made" loop together with the correct stitch as usual, but do not make any fresh loops.

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 85 (89, 93) stitches and work in single rib:
**
1st row (right side): K1; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: P1; * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these two rows until work measures 3 inches (8cm) from the beginning, ending with 1st rib row.
**
Increase row: Rib 6 (8, 10), [double increase, rib 7] 9 times, double increase, rib 6 (8, 10). [105 (109, 113) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern as given above.

Continue until work measures 13½ (14, 15) inches from the beginning.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 28 (29, 29) times.

Cast off remaining 31 stitches for back neck.

Front

Work as for back until 114 (120, 124) rows have been worked from the beginning of the raglan shaping; 39 stitches remain for all sizes, ending with a decrease row.

Neck Shaping:

Next row: Pattern 13, and leave these stitches on a holder; cast off the next 13 stitches; pattern to end.
Continue on these last 13 stitches now remaining on the needle.

***
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 6 rows, and then at the same edge on the next 2 alternate rows, and at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows; then decrease 1 stitch at the raglan edge on every following 4th row twice.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the other set of 13 stitches, and complete in the same way, from *** reversing shaping.

Note that the front is overall 4 rows shorter than the back.

Left Sleeve

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 51 (55, 55) stitches and work as for back welt from ** to **.

Increase row: Rib 4 (6, 6), [double increase, rib 13] 3 times, double increase, rib 4 (6, 6). [59 (63, 63) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern, but increase 1 stitch at both ends of every following 10th row 6 (8, 3) times, then every following 8th row 12 (10, 17) times, working the extra stitches into the pattern.
[95 (99, 103) sts]

Continue straight until work measures 16 (16½, 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a 3rd (5th, 5th) pattern row.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 22 (23, 23) times; for all sizes 33 stitches remain, ending with a 5th pattern row.
****

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches for the back sleeve section on a spare needle; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for front section of sleeve.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 9 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 4 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for back sleeve section.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 5 times, then every following 4th row 3 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 5 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Note that front edge off sleeve is 4 rows shorter than back edge.

Right Sleeve

Work as for left sleeve to ****.

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches on a spare needle for front sleeve section; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for back section of right sleeve, and complete as for back section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for front sleeve section, and complete as for front section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Make Up and Neck Borders

Join front raglan seams and right back seam matching vertical stripes. With right side of work facing and using No 11 (3mm) needles, using main colour A, pick up and knit 15 stitches along the neck opening at the top of the left sleeve, 41 stitches round front neck edge, 15 stitches along neck opening at the top of the right sleeve and 32 stitches across the back neck.
Beginning with the 2nd row work in single rib as on the welt for 9 rows then cast off loosely ribwise.
Join left back raglan seam and the ends of the neck border.
Fold this border in half to the wrong side, and slip-stitch the cast-off edge to the back of the picked-up stitches.
Join side and sleeve seams.

You should not press or iron any of the single or fisherman rib.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 50g balls:
7 (8, 9) in main colour A - purple;
5 (6, 6) in contrast colour B - bright teal.

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles, and two (long) double pointed needles or circular, No 9 (3¾mm) for working the pattern.

Tension

20 sts x 50 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern; work a sample on 25 stitches beginning with 2 rows of rib in contrast A then continue in pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest 32-34, (36, 38-40)
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
double increase: into next stitch, purl into front, then knit into back, then purl again into front of same stitch.
slip1pw: slip the next stitch inserting needle into it as if it were a purl.
yft: yarn to front.
yon: yarn over needle.
yrn: yarn round needle.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting wool (50% ) mix, with acrylic (40%) and mohair (10%). The quoted yardage was 125 meters, (137 yds), per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Note: instructions are given for 3 sizes.

Back and Front alike:

With No 13 (2¼mm) needles cast on 112 / 120 / 128 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles and pattern:

1st row: knit.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k3, (yfwd, k2togtbl, k6) repeat to end, finishing last repeat k3.
5th row: k1, (k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2togtbl, k3) repeat to end, ending last repeat k2.
7th row: as 3rd row.
9th row: knit
11th row: k7, (yfwd, k2togtbl, k6) repeat to last stitch, k1.
13th row: k5, (k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2togtbl, k3) repeat to last 3 stitches, k3.
15th row: as 11th row.
16th row: purl.

These 16 rows form the pattern.
Continue in pattern and increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until there are 128 / 136 / 144 stitches.
Then continue straight until work measures 12 inches, ending with a purl row.

Armhole Shaping: Cast off 4 / 5 / 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Armhole Shaping:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 40, turn.
Continue on these stitches only, casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 3 alternate rows; at the same time decreasing 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 7 rows.
Knit the last 2 stitches together and fasten off.

With right side facing, cast off the centre 28/ 32 / 36 stitches.
Complete to match the first side.

Frill (two pieces alike)

With No 12 needles and contrast edge colour, cast 168/ 184 / 200 stitches.
Work 3 rows stocking stitch.
Knit 1 row (hemline).
Work 4 rows stocking stitch.
Break off contrast edge colour, join on main colour, and repeat the
16 pattern rows of the main part twice, then repeat 1st to 8th rows once more.
Next row: k 0 / 1 / 2, * k2tog, k1; repeat from * to end.
Change to No 13 needles. Beginning with a purl row, work 4 rows stocking stitch, then knit 1 row (hemline).
Work 4 rows stocking stitch for the casing.
Cast off.

Making Up

Press lightly.
Join side seams.

Armhole Edgings: With right side facing, using No 13 needles, pick up and k32 / 36 / 40 stitches around the armhole edge.
Knit 1 row. Cast off

Join side edges of frill. Fold cast-on edge to wrong side at hemline and sew down, leaving an opening to insert elastic.
Stitch centre of each "side" of the frill to the entire neck shaping of back and front, leaving remainder free at each side to complete armholes.
Thread elastic through casing; adjust to fit and join ends. Close opening.

Materials

Fingering 3 ply weight metallic yarn:
8 / 8 / 9 x 25g balls in main colour, and 1 ball for the edging detail.

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm), and No 13 (2¼mm) needles.

Tension

32sts to four inches

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 / 34 / 36 inches;
length: 18 / 18½ / 19 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k2togtbl: knit two stitches together through back loops to decrease one stitch [also known as "ssk" or slip, slip, knit]
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
stocking stitch: alternate rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

A Word on the Wool.

The original yarn was Twilleys Goldfingering - available in 25g balls with a yardage of 100m (109yds), 80% Viscose 20% Metallised Polyester.
Although the Twilleys company wound up in 2007, Goldfingering is currently still fairly widely available - and in some rather inspiring colours. At time of writing, for example, the colour 05 silver is on special offer here, (the picture shows the colour "pewter" with edging in "ebony").

Instructions.

Instructions for 2 sizes, larger size in brackets
The top is made up by joining a number of crocheted square motifs.

Special instructions: make cluster

This is a 3 dtr cluster made by working 3 dtr together as follows:

* yoh twice, insert hook into stitch or ch space, yoh, pull 1 loop through, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, repeat from * twice more, still working into the same stitch.
Yoh, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook.

When working a cluster at the beginning of the round, work as follows:

3ch (counts as first dtr), * yoh twice, insert hook into same stitch or ch space, yoh, pull 1 loop through, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops, repeat from * once more, still working into the same stitch.
Yoh, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

Basic Motif

Make 6 ch, close circle with 1 slip stitch.
Work in rounds.
1st round: work 12 dc into the centre of the circle, joining to first dc with a slip stitch.
2nd round: make a cluster as for the beginning of a round, 3 ch; (make cluster, 3ch) 11 more times. Join to top of cluster at the start of the round with a slip stitch.
3rd round: slip stitch into the next chain space, make a cluster as for the beginning of a round, 3 ch, make cluster into the same ch space, * (5 ch, 1 dc in next ch space) twice, 5 ch; (make cluster, 3 ch, make cluster) all in next chain space; repeat from * twice more.
End with (5 ch, 1 dc in next ch space) twice, 5 ch, and join to top of cluster at the start of the round with a slip stitch.

Make 298 (332) identical motifs. These are then joined in strips of various lengths in order the build up the cardigan shape.

Joining motifs

Make sure the motifs are all the same side up when you start to join them. Work as follows: join to the corner of the second completed motif, then make 2 ch, then 1dc into the loop on the corner of previous motif. Continue thus, with 2 ch, 1 dc into each of the following loops, alternating between each of the two motifs.

Below is an example of the motifs with the joining stitches shown in a different colour.

Lower edge of cardigan (back and fronts)

Make 7 strips of 18 (20) motifs and then join the strips in same way as for joining motifs. (You have a rectangle 18 (20) by 7 motifs which is the back and fronts worked together up to the armholes).

Back (top and sleeves)

Make 5 strips of 18 (20) motifs and then join the strips in same way as for joining motifs. (You have a rectangle 18 (20) by 5 motifs which is the back and sleeves worked together from the armholes up to the shoulders).

Right front (top and sleeves)

Make 3 strips of 9 (10) motifs and then join them.
Make 2 strips of 7 (8) motifs and then join them to the previous piece,
staggering them 2 motifs to the left for the front neck.

Left front (top and sleeves)

Work in the same way,the opposite way round.

Putting it all together

The assembly diagram below shows the smaller size, which requires you to join the bottom of the cardigan to the top sections centred across an uneven number of squares (9) - so involves joining a "half square". The larger size has an even number (10).
All the motifs are made in the same colour - the colour coding below is just to help understand how the sections are joined together.

Join the lower section to the top, joining the centre 9 (10) motifs for the back - shown in the diagram as between points (a) and (b) -
and join the 4½ (5) motifs at each end for the fronts - shown in the diagram as between points (a) and (c) for the right front and (b) and (d) for the left front.

Join the top of garment across the shoulders and tops of sleeves. (There are 7 (8) motifs each side.)

Iron lightly on wrong side of work.

Stitch the sleeve seams - shown in the diagram as between points (a) and (g) for the right sleeve and (b) and (h) for the left sleeve.

Work 5 rows of dc all round the sweater, working a little tighter round
the neckline.
Work 5 rows of dc around each sleeve edge.

Sew in all ends. (I would advise sewing in ends on each motif as you go since this can be a rather daunting task if they are all left to the end).

A Word on the Wool

This is made using cotton 8, which is fine but not that fine.
For comparison, the sort of cotton you would use to make doilies would have been typically (Coats) cotton 20 - and the bigger the number the finer the thread.

You can find cotton 8 on line as rather expensive fine crochet cotton by the likes of DMC, or in more budget versions from bulk distributors such as Hobbii.

The key criteria to look for (even if it's called cotton No 8) is a knitting gauge - often printed on a ball band - of 39 sts x 59 rows to 10 cm square on 2mm needles; and a yardage of something like 285 meters to 50g.
After that you should experiment making a motif or two using a 1½mm hook, and then varying the hook size if necessary to get the right size.

If you want to make this in a fine wool then laceweights would probably suit (again be sure to try a motif). I implied above that the yardage could be used as an indication of suitable thickness when substituting, but not if you are substituting with wool because it has a different density to cotton. You can use the yardage as a guide to how much yarn to purchase to make this garment, but not for any indication of suitable thickness.

Materials

7 (8) x 50g balls cotton No 8 in colour "Heliotrope".

1.5 mm crochet hook

Tension

Each motif measures 5cm, (2 inches)

Size matters

10-12 / 14-16
[32 - 34 / 36 - 38 inch chest]

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
dtr: double treble
yoh: yarn over hook

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The cardigan is worked as one piece, starting with the two front, pieces worked separately, then joining them to complete the lower back

Cardigan left front:

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 34 stitches and knit 2 rows.

Shape front hem, by working short rows as given below, noting that after the first 8 rows in garter stitch (every row knitted), you start to work in stocking stitch (right-side rows knitted, wrong-side rows in purl) on the first 27 stitches, and keep the last 7 front edge stitches (the curved edge) in garter stitch to form the front band

Next row: k26. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k27. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k29. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k30. Turn, work back to end.
Next row: k32. Turn, work back to end.
Next row: k34. Turn, work back to end.
[Editors note: this is where you start to work the stocking stitch section, keeping the front band in garter stitch.]

Continue straight, with the 7 front edge stitches in garter stitch and the 27 side edge stitches in stocking stitch, until work measures 4¾ inches from the start of the stocking stitch, (about 46 rows), ending with a wrong side row.
Cast on 34 stitches at the side edge to create the left sleeve. [68 sts].
Now continue, but working 7 stitches in garter stitch at both edges...
[Editors note: this makes a garter stitch cuff at the sleeve end, and continues the front band.]
...until work measures 6¼ inches from the start of the stocking stitch, (about 62 rows), ending with a right side row.

Shape neck, by casting off stitches at the front edge as follows:

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 7 stitches at the front edge, work to end of row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next, and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows. [54 sts]

Continue straight, as set, keeping the sleeve cuff in garter stitch, until work measures 7¾ inches (about 76 rows), ending with right side facing for the next row.
Break yarn, and leave the stitches on a spare needle.

Cardigan right front:

Work as for the left front, reversing all shapings, and placing 3 buttonholes at the front edge on the 4th, 30th, and 56th row of the stocking stitch.
[Editors note:they rather leave you to your own devices here with the buttonholes. I suggest creating eyelets in the garter stitch band, by knitting 3 stitches in from the edge, yarn over, k2tog, k2. You could choose to put the buttonholes on either the right or left front.]

When you have completed the 76 rows on the right front, join the two fronts together to knit the back:

Cardigan back

Next (joining) row (right side facing): knit 54 stitches from the left front; cast on 22 stitches for the back neck; knit 54 stitches from the right front. [130 sts].

Continue straight for 31 rows, keeping the 7 stitches at each end in garter stitch, for the two sleeve cuffs.

Cast off 34 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [62 sts].
Continue in stocking stitch for 46 rows (no garter stitch borders), then finish with 8 rows of garter stitch.
Cast off all stitches.

Collar

Using No 11 needles, cast on 11 stitches and knit 2 rows.

Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k7. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k7. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k9. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k9. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: knit across all 11 stitches.
Next row: knit across all 11 stitches.

Shape collar:

Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Knit 8 rows across all 11 stitches.
Repeat the last 12 rows, 12 times more.

Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Knit 2 rows across all 11 stitches.
Next row: k9. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k9. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k7. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k7. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k4. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: k3. Turn, knit back to end.
Next row: knit across all 11 stitches.

Cast off.

Making up the cardigan

Join side and sleeve seams.
Attach Collar to right side of cardigan using back stitch.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

4ply fingering yarn in 50g balls:
Cardigan: 2 balls.
Trousers: 1 ball.
Bootees: 1 ball

Nos 11 (3mm) needles.
3 buttons.
Elastic for trouser waistband.

Tension

28sts x 32 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit one size up to 3 months.
Chest: 18 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together.
yrn/yfwd/yon: "yarn round needle" / "yarn forward" / "yarn over needle"; make a stitch by passing the yarn over the needle.
sl1: slip one stitch.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a synthetic mix of acrylic and rayon (which gave it a ply of a silky thread), and a small percentage of wool.
Approximately 160m per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Trousers Front

* Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 27 stitches, and work in garter stitch for 8 rows.
Then work 8 rows in stocking stitch, * and leave the stitches on a spare needle.

Make a second leg by repeating these instructions from * to *.

Then join the two legs by knitting across these 27 stitches from the second leg, cast on 8 stitches, and knit across the 27 stitches from the first leg. [62 sts]
**

Work straight on these 62 stitches in stocking stitch for 5½ inches ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Next row: knit.
[Editors note:this makes a ridge to mark the fold line for creating the channel at the waist for the elastic.]

Starting with a knit row, work 8 rows in stocking stitch as before.
Cast off.

Trousers Back

Work as for Front from * to **.
Work straight in stocking stitch on these stitches for 5 inches ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape top by working as follows:

Next row: Work to the last 3 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 3 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 9 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 9 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 12 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 12 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 15 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 15 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 18 stitches. Turn.
Next row: Work to the last 18 stitches. Turn.

Work 3 rows across all 62 stitches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Next row: knit.
Starting with a knit row, work 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Making up the trousers

Join side and leg seams.
Fold down the top of front and back to the wrong side, and slipstitch the hem in place
Insert the elastic.

Bootees

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 38 stitches, and work for 8 rows in garter stitch.
Then work 16 rows in stocking stitch, ending with right side facing for next row.

Next row: k2, * k2tog, yon; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
Work 5 rows in stocking stitch, ending with right side facing for next row.

Next row: k24. Turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.
Next row: p10. Turn, and leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Continue on these 10 stitches for a further 16 rows in stocking stitch, ending with right side facing for next row.
Break yarn and leave the stitches on a spare needle.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn and knit 14 stitches from spare needle; knit up 12 stitches along the side of the rows just worked; knit across 10 stitches from spare needle; knit 12 stitches down the other side of the rows just worked; knit across 14 stitches from spare needle. [62 sts]

Work 8 rows in garter stitch, ending with right side facing for next row.
Break yarn.

Shape Sole:

Slip the first 26 stitches on to the right hand needle (or "working" needle if you are left handed), and rejoin yarn to work the centre 10 sole stitches; knit 9, k2tog, turn.
Next row: k9, k2tog, turn.
Repeat the last row, gradually decreasing stitches either side of the centre sole until 22 stitches remain.

Cast off.

Finishing:

Join back seam, and join sole at the back.

Make a cord by cast on 100 stitches; knit one row, then cast off.
Thread cord through eyelet holes in bootee.

Make a second bootee in the same way.

Instructions

The original pattern used two strands held together of a 4ply weight yarn, but you could easily use a single strand of anything from a double knit through to a chunky yarn, which would ultimately only affect the resulting size of the toy. It's nice to have a fairly firm tension for a toy so adjust the needle size as appropriate.

Body (2 pieces)

Using contrast colour (B), cast on 23 stitches.
1st row: knit in B.
2nd row: purl in B.
Join in white (A)
3rd row: In A, k1, * sl1p, k1; repeat from * to end
4th row: In A, k1, * yf, sl1p, yb, k1; repeat from * to end

These four rows form the colour pattern.

Keeping the pattern correct, continue and cast on 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Work 2 rows.

Repeat the last 4 rows [31 sts].
Work 2 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until 15 stitches remain.
Work 7 rows.
Cast off.

Work a second piece in the same way.

Head (2 pieces)

Using white (A), start at the nose and cast on 3 stitches.
Starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following alternate row until there are 21 stitches on the needle.
Work 3 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 11 stitches.

Work a second piece in the same way.

Ears (4 pieces)

Using contrast colour (B), cast on 7 stitches, and, starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and following alternate row.
Work 5 rows.
Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 7 stitches.

Work three further pieces in the same way.

Tail (1 piece)

The tail can be either a 4-stitch I-cord, or a twisted cord - make it as long as you think suitable for the toy.

To Make Up

[Editor's note: This toy is designed to have a cotton lining - which I believe is designed to help it keep its flat shape. I stuffed it with concentric layers of flat synthetic quilt padding instead, using the knitted shapes as a guide.]

Cut out the body and head in calico, leaving a 1½cm seam allowance, using the knitted pieces as a template.

Join the side seams of the body and the outside edges of the head, of both the knitted and calico versions. Turn the calico lining to the right side and sew head to body. Fill and sew up lower edge.

Place the lining inside the the knitted version and finish all seams.

[Editor's note: I found the instructions a bit vague here - you just have to use the picture as a guide to see how and where to attach the head to the body, and discover how that all works out with a lining! However this is simple toy so it's easy enough to extemporise.]

Seam the ears together, noting that the reverse stocking stitch is the right side. Sew the cast-off edges of the ears to the head.

Attach the tail to the body.

The eyes can be embroidery or buttons as shown in the picture. There is also a tiny embroidered nose.

Materials

Double Knitting, Aran, or Worsted:
1 ball in each of white (A) and a contrast (B).

Pair of No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

30cm x 30cm (12 inch square) of calico for lining.

Stuffing.

Tension

25 sts and 34 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch. However, as this is a toy the tension is less important - you just need to be consistent.

Size matters

Makes about a 10 inch toy.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
sl1p: slip 1 stitch purlwise.
yf: bring the yarn to the front of the work.
yb: take the yarn to the back of the work.
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A Word on the Wool:

The original yarns used were a quick-knit - that is between a DK and a 4ply - and a 4ply, but the yarns were used double.

The original yarn came in 50g balls of 160 metres.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Instructions for 2 sizes, larger size in brackets.

COAT

The body of the coat is made in one piece beginning at the bottom edge.

With larger size needles and white colour, cast on 186 (204) stitches, and, using the blue colour, work in stocking stitch until the work measures 9 (13 ) inches.
Now divide the piece to work the Back and Fronts separately from the armholes by placing 46 (50) stitches at each side on holders.

Coat Back

Continue on the centre 94 (104)stitches for the Back only.

Shape armholes by decreasing: for size 1: decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 8 rows, (for size 2: decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row once, then the following 4th row once, then the following alternate row once, and finally the following 4th row once).
Place the remaining 86 (96) stitches on a holder.

Coat - Right Front:

With right side facing, pick up 46 (50) stitches for the on the right and shape the armhole.
Beginning at the armhole edge, for size 1: decrease 1 stitch on the next and every alternate row, 4 times, (for size 2: decrease 1 stitch on the next row once, 1 stitch at the beginning of the following 4th row once, 1 stitch at the beginning of the following alternate row once, 1 stitch at the beginning of the following 4th row once).
At the same time shape the neck edge beginning at 1st (5th) - knit - row, by leaving the last 22 (26) stitches unworked, turning and purling back, and then in the same way, leaving the last 5 stitches unworked on every alternate row 4 times.

Leave all 42 (46) stitches remaining on a holder.

Coat - Left Front:

Work the left front the same as the right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves (make 2):

With smaller size needles and blue colour, cast on 38 stitches and work 1¼ inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to larger size needles, and work in stocking stitch, increasing 8 (10) stitches evenly spaced across the first row. [46 (48) sts]
Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 8 times. [62 (64) sts]

Continue without shaping until work measures 6¾ (8¼) inches.
Shape top by decreasing for size 1: 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 8 rows, (for size 2: decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 1 stitch at each end of the following 4th row, 1 stitch at each end of the following alternate row, 1 stitch at each end of the following 4th row).
Leave the remaining 54 (56) stitches on a stitch holder.

Yoke:

With larger size needles in blue colour, pick up the 278 (300) stitches from the holders: 42 (46) stitches from the right front, 54 (56) stitches from the right sleeve, 86 (96) stitches from the back, 54 (56) stitches from the left sleeve, and finally, 42 (46) stitches from the left front.

With right side facing, work 2 rows in stocking stitch decreasing 8 stitches at the armholes on the first row as follows:
Next row (decrease): k40 (44), k2tog, k2tog, k50 (52), k2tog, k2tog, k82 (92), k2tog, k2tog, k50 (52), k2tog, k2tog, k40 (44).
[270 (292) sts]
Next row: purl.

The next row decreases a number of stitches evenly across each section of the yoke - work the two sizes as follows:

SIZE 1 only

Next row (decrease): (k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k2tog) 5 times, k1;
k1, (k3, k2tog) 10 times, k1;
k1, k2tog, (k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k2tog) 10 times, k1;
k1, (k2tog, k3) 10 times, k1;
k1, (k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1) 5 times. [189 sts]

Next row: purl.

SIZE 2 only

Next row (decrease): (k1, k2tog) 15 times;
k2, (k4, k2tog, k4) 5 times, k2;
k2tog, k2tog, (k1, k2tog) 29 times, k3tog;
k2, (k4, k2tog, k4) 5 times, k2;
(k2tog, k1) 15 times. [219 sts]

Next row: purl.

Now work the pattern sections in stocking stitch from the charts, with decreasing on plain rows in between as follows; note carefully that decrease rows are written separately for each of the two sizes:

Both sizes: work row 1-4 rows from chart 1 starting with a knit row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 5 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k6, * k2tog, k5, repeat from * 26 times, k1. [163 sts]
Next row 6: Change to white and purl across the row.
Next row 7 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: k7, * k2tog, k5, repeat from * 22 times. [141 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 5 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k8, * k2tog, k6, repeat from * 26 times, k3. [193 sts]
Next row 6 : Change to white and purl across the row.
Next row 7 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: k1, * k2tog, k8, repeat from * 19 times, k2tog. [173 sts]

Both sizes: work 7 rows from chart 2 starting with a purl row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 15 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k10, * k2tog, k3, repeat from * 25 times, k6. [116 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 15 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k7, * k2tog, k4, repeat from * 27 times, k4. [146 sts]

Both sizes: work 2 rows from chart 3 starting with a purl row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 18 (decrease): Using blue yarn: p2, * p2tog, p3, repeat from * 22 times, p2tog, p2. [93 sts]
Next row 19: Change to white and knit across the row.
Next row 20 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: p10, * p2tog, p2, repeat from * 19 times, p7. [74 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 18 (decrease): Using blue yarn: p6, * p2tog, p4, repeat from * 23 times, p2. [123 sts]
Next row 19: Change to white and knit across the row.
Next row 20 (decrease): Change to blue yarn: p1, * p2tog, p4, repeat from * 20 times, p2tog. [102 sts]

Both sizes: work 6 rows from chart 4 starting with a knit row.

SIZE 1 only:

Next row 27 (decrease): Using blue yarn: * k2tog, k4, repeat from * 12 times, k2tog. [61 sts]

SIZE 2 only:

Next row 27 (decrease): Using blue yarn: k2, * k2tog, k2, repeat from * 25 times. [77 sts]

Both sizes: work 4 rows from chart 5 starting with a purl row.

Both sizes: purl 1 row in blue, decreasing one stitch at the centre of the work. [60 (76) sts]

Place the remaining stitches on a stitch holder.

Coat border:

Remove the strand of white at the bottom of the work, picking up the stitches as you go.
With the circular needle and blue colour, pick up and knit 436 (506) stitches around the edge of the coat, as follows:
60 (76) stitches around neck,
91 (109) stitches from each front,
186 (204) stitches from bottom edge.
Commence working in the round, increasing 2 stitches at the corners between each section.

Work 4 rounds of stocking stitch (every round knitted) and on the 2nd round on right front edge, make 3 buttonholes 2 stitches wide: cast off 2 stitches, then on the third round, cast on 2 stitches over the spaces.
Place the first buttonhole in line with the last row of Chart 1, of the yoke; space the others 8 stitches apart.

On the 5th round, work 1 round of eyelets:
5th round: k1, * yarn over, k2tog, repeat from * to end.
[This is the fold line to make the picot edge].

Work a further round, then make 3 buttonholes at same places as first 3 buttonholes. Work a further 2 rounds then cast off all stitches.

Finishing the coat:

Sew armhole and sleeve seams.
Fold border in half all around the coat and sew in place.
Sew around buttonholes.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn:

Coat: 3 (4) x 50g balls in blue colour plus 1 ball in white.

Bonnet: 1 ball in each colour.

One pair each of 3mm and 3½mm (or 3¾mm) needles.

3½mm (or 3¾mm) circular needle.

Tension

23sts x 30 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

1 / 2 years
[25 / 26 inch chest]

Abbreviations:

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together
p2tog: decrease by purling 2 stitches together
yo: yarn over needle to make an extra stitch (creates a decorative hole)

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was a double knitting with 50/50 wool/acrylic mix and approximately 125m to 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

BONNET

With larger size needles and blue colour, cast on 89 stitches.
Work 4 rows in stocking stitch until the work measures 9 (13 ) inches.

On the 5th row, work eyelets:
5th row: k1, * yarn over, k2tog, repeat from * to last 2 stitches; k2. [90 sts]
[This is the fold line to make the picot edge].

Continue in stocking stitch, and when work measures 1¼ inches, begin the fair-isle pattern following the 35 rows on the chart given at the end.

Then shape the back of the hat by casting off 30 stitches at each edge of next row. You now have 29 stitches.
[Editor's note: If I were knitting this I would cast off 30 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows and then continue on the centre 29 stitches only; this avoids having to break and rejoin the blue colour.]

Continue on the centre 29 stitches in blue colour, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 6 times.
Cast off the remaining 17 stitches.

Finishing the bonnet:

Fold the border along the row of eyelets to form the picot edge, and sew a hem.
Fold the T shaped knitting into a bonnet shape and sew the two back seams, so that the plain centre section forms the back of the head, and the picot edge frames the face.
With smaller size needles and blue colour, pick up and knit 64 stitches all around the bottom edge of the bonnet.

To make the chin strap, cast on 25 stitches (left side of work, right side of bonnet), and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib. On the 2nd make 1 buttonhole 2 stitches wide, as on the coat, placing it 4 stitches from the end of the strap.
On the 5th row, cast off all stitches.
Sew a button on the other (left) side of the bonnet to attach the chin strap.

Bonnet Chart

Instructions.

The main pattern stitch is named as "beaded rib" worked as follows:

1st row and all odd rows (right side facing): knit
2nd row and all even rows: * k1; k1b (see abbreviations). Repeat from * to end of round.
Editor's note: I would call this stitch "mock fisherman's rib" - "mock" because the alternate rows are knitted plain.

Back

With smaller sized needles, cast on 134/140/146/152/158 stitches, and work 2¾ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to larger needles and work in the "beaded rib" stitch until work measures 14/14/14½/15/15½ inches.

Shape armholes, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; then cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4/4/4/6/6 rows; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next, and following 4/5/6/5/6 alternate rows.
[104/108/112/116/120 sts]

Continue in pattern as set until work measures 22/22½/23½/24½/25½ inches.

Shape shoulders and back neck as follows:

Cast off 10/9/10/11/11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Next row: cast off 9/10/10/10/11, k18/9/10/11/11, cast off centre 28/30/32/34/34, knit to end.
Next row: cast off 9/10/10/10/11, p18/19/19/19/20 and then turn, leaving the 19/20/20/20/21 right back shoulder stitches unworked on the needles, while you finish the left shoulder separately.

Next row: cast off 10 at the neck edge, knit to end.
Next row: cast off the remaining 9/10/10/10/11 and fasten off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the right back at the neck edge and cast off 10 at the neck edge, purl to end. Turn and cast off the remaining 9/10/10/10/11 and fasten off, thus completing the right shoulder.

Front

Work as for back up to the start of the armhole shaping when work measures 14/14/14½/15/15½ inches.

Start the armhole shaping, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows; then cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4/4/4/6/6 rows.
[114/120/126/128/134 sts]

Divide for neck by continuing on the first half of the stitches only and placing the remaining half of the stitches [57/60/63/64/67 sts] on a spare needle.

Keeping the pattern correct, decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next and following 4/5/6/5/6 alternate rows, and, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every 5th row 24/25/26/27/27 times. [28/29/30/31/33 sts]

Continue straight until work measures 22/22½/23½/24½/25½ inches, then shape shoulders by casting off at the armhole edge on every alternate row, 10/9/10/11/11 stitches once, and 9/10/10/10/11 stitches twice.

Rejoin the yarn to the stitches on the spare needle and work the other side of the neck to match, reversing the shapings.

To Make Up

Join the shoulder seams.

Neck Border:
With double pointed needles or circular, beginning at the lowest point of the V-neck, pick up and knit 64/68/72/76/80 stitches up the right neck edge, then 46/50/52/54/54 stitches around the back neck, then
64/68/72/76/80 stitches down the left neck edge.
Work ¾ inch in k1/p1 rib, but work
back and forth (rather than in the round), decreasing 1 stitch at each end on every row.
Bind off loosely in rib and sew the neck border bias seam.

Armhole borders:
With smaller size needles, pick up and knit 184/190/196/202/206 stitches evenly around the armholes.
Work ¾ inch in k1/p1 rib.
Bind off loosely in rib.

Sew side seams including the armhole border seams.

Block and press as required.

Materials

4 ply yarn:
6/7/7/8/8 x 50g balls

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

No 12 (2¾mm) double pointed needles or circular.

Tension

28sts and 60 rows to 4 inches on 3¼mm needles over "beaded rib" stitch.

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
38/40/41/43/44 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k1b: knit 1 below: insert needle through the centre of the stitch below the next stitch to be knitted, and knit off both stitches at the same time.
Editor's note: This stitch is fairly well known now due to the popularity of brioche knitting; however it's easier to demonstrate than describe, so if you don't understand then look for video demonstrations on YouTube or similar.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was an acrylic yarn with a yardage of about 170m per 50g ball.

You can use a 4 or 5 ply yarn for this loose fitting design, but check your tension and alter the needle size if necessary.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The pattern is written for one size only, and at 34 to 38 inches this might be a bit of a limitation. It is designed to be oversized, so the actual measurement should come out at about 41 inches if you achieve the stated tension.

[Editor's note: I can see why they would have had difficulty providing a sensible larger size, as the lace pattern is repeated over 34 stitches - so if you added another repeat it would increase the size by at least 12 inches. Having said that, many oversize sweaters, both in the eighties and now, are designed to be in excess of 50 inches as a supposed "one size", and it would be a moderately feasible task to redraft the pattern, due to the lack of shaping - if you had the appetite for it.]

Front

** With 4mm needles, cast on 88 stitches.

1st row: p1, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
2nd row: k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat 1st and 2nd rows until work measures 8½ inches (21 cm), ending with a 1st row.

Next row: p6, increase in the next stitch, * p4, increase in the next stitch; repeat from * to the last 6 stitches, p6. [104 sts].

Change to No 5½ mm needles and work in pattern as follows:
1st row: k1, * k3, k2tog, k4, yrn, p2, (k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso) 3 times, p2, yon, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k3; repeat from * to
last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p2, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p1, k2, (p2, yrn, p2tog) 3 times, k2, p1, yrn, p4, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1. 3rd row: k1, * k1, k2tog, k4, yfwd, k2, p2, (k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso) 3 times, p2, k2, yfwd, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
4th row: k1, * p2togtbl, p4, yrn. p3, k2, (p2, yrn, p2tog) 3 times, k2, p3, yrn, p4, p2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

5th - 12th rows: Repeat 1st to 4th rows twice.

13th row: k1, * yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, p2, yon, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k6, k2tog, k4, yrn, p2, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
14th row: k1, * yrn, p2tog, p2, yrn, p2tog, k2, p1, yrn, p4, p2tog, p4, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p1, k2, p2, yrn, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
15th row: k1, * yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, p2, k2, yfwd, k4, sl1k, k1, psso, k2, k2tog, k4, yfwd, k2, p2, k2, yfwd, sl1k, k1, psso, k2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
16th row: k1, * yrn, p2tog, p2, yrn, p2tog, k2, p3, yrn, p4, p2tog, p2togtbl, p4, yrn, p3, k2, p2, yrn, p2tog, p2; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

17th - 24th rows: Repeat 13th to 16th rows twice.

These 24 rows form the pattern. **
Continue in pattern until Front measures 30 inches (76 cm), ending with right side facing for next row (measured with work hanging from needle to allow for drop).
[Editor's note: Calculating from the tension this should be about 108 rows in the pattern or 4½ pattern repeats.]

Next row: Pattern 52 stitches, M2, pattern to end.

Divide for neck as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): Pattern 53 stitches, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or a stitch holder.
[Editor's note: Make a note of the pattern row number you are working on when you knit this turning row..]
Continue on these stitches only for the first side, and work in pattern until Front measures 38 inches (97cm), ending with right side facing.
Cast off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches at the centre neck edge, and finish to correspond with first side.
[Editor's note: I think they rather gloss over this instruction - you need to have made a note of the row number on which you divided for the neck so you can make sure you resume the pattern here on the correct row.]

Back

Work as for Front from ** to **.
Continue in pattern until Back measures 34 inches (86 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.
Next row: Pattern 52 stitches, M2, pattern to end.

Divide for neck as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): Pattern 53 stitches, turn, and leave remaining stitches on a length of yarn or a stitch holder.
[Editor's note: As you did for the Front, make a note of the pattern row number you are working on when you knit this turning row.]
Continue on these stitches only for the first side, and work in pattern until Back matches Front at side edge, ending with right side facing.
Cast off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches at the centre neck edge, and finish to correspond with first side.
[Editor's note: Having seen how you did it with the Front, you can resume the pattern here on the correct row, using the note you made when you divided the Back neck.]

Sleeves

With 4mm needles, cast on 36 stitches and work in rib as for Front for 4 inches (10cm), ending with a 1st row.
Next row: p1, * increase in the next stitch; repeat from * to the last stitch, p1. [70 sts]
Change to 5½mm needles, and work in pattern as for Front until Sleeve measures 18 inches (46cm) down centre, ending with right side
facing.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting ribbing, press lightly on wrong side following instructions on the ball band.
Join shoulder seams.
Placing centre of cast-off stitches of sleeves to shoulder seams, sew sleeves in position.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Press seams.

Materials

18 x 50g balls of Aran weight yarn yarn.

A pair each of Nos
8 (4mm), 5 (5½mm).

Tension

This design uses big needles so the tension is
20 stitches x 20 rows to 4 ins on No 5½mm needles over the pattern - different from the usual Aran tension.

The original yarn knitted to a tension of 18 stitches x 24 rows to 4 inches on 5mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 34-38 inches; length: 38 inches;
and sleeve seam: 18 inches.

Abbreviations

M2: make 2 stitches by picking up the horizontal loop lying before the next stitch and working into back and front of it.
inc: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
yrn/yfwd/yon: "yarn round needle" / "yarn forward" / "yarn over needle"; make a stitch by passing the yarn over the needle.
sl1k: slip one stitch knitwise.
psso: pass the slipped stitch(es) over.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 stitches together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 stitches together.
tbl: through back loop(s).
sl: slip.

A word on the wool.

The original sweater was knitted in a Patons Capstan - a pure wool classic Aran weight yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

A man's plain loose sweater in 3 sizes (small medium and large).

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and red contrast colour (R), cast on 118/122/126 stitches, and work 3 rows k2/p2 rib. Break yarn.
Change to main colour (M) and continue in rib until work measures
3½ inches from the beginning. Break yarn.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm or 3½mm) needles and join in dark grey contrast (G) to start working the striped stocking stitch pattern, increasing 2 / 3 / 4 stitches, evenly across the first row.
[120/125/130 sts].
Work in alternate stripes of 14 rows G, 14 rows M.

After the first 12 rows of the seventh stripe (which is in in colour G), shape the armholes by casting off 9/10/11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [102/105/108 sts].

Change to colour R and work 14 rows for the 8th stripe.

Change to colour G and continue in striped stocking stitch alternating between colours G and M.
When work measures 26¼ / 26¾ / 27¼ inches, shape shoulders and back neck as follows:

Cast off 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: Cast off 9/9/9, k7/8/9, cast off centre 50/51/52, knit to end.
Next row: Cast off 9/9/9, p7/8/9 and then turn, leaving the 8/9/10 right back shoulder stitches unworked on the needles, while you finish the left shoulder separately.
Next row: k8/9/10, turn, cast off the remaining 8/9/10 and fasten off.

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the right back at the neck edge and purl 8/9/10. Turn and cast off the remaining 8/9/10 and fasten off, thus completing the right shoulder

Front

Work as for back until work measures 23¼ / 23½ / 24 inches.

Keeping continuity of the striped pattern shape neck as follows:
Next row: k43/44/45, cast off the centre 16/17/18 stitches, knit to end.
Next row: p43/44/45 and leave the remaining 43/44/45 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder while you complete the left front separately.

At the beginning of the next row cast off 4 stitches. Then at the neck edge on every following alternate row, cast off: 3 stitches once, 2 stitches 3 times, and 1 stitch 4 times. [26/27/28 sts].

Continue straight on these stitches until front matches back to the shoulder. With wrong side facing, at the armhole edge, shape shoulder by casting off 9/9/9 stitches on the next and following alternate row. Knit 1 row and then cast off the remaining 8/9/10 stitches.
This completes the left front.

With wrong side facing, return to the stitches for the right side of the front, rejoin the yarn to the neck edge, and cast off 4 stitches, purl to end. Then at the neck edge on every following alternate row cast off: 3 stitches once, 2 stitches 3 times, and 1 stitch 4 times. [26/27/28 sts].

Continue straight on these stitches until front matches back to the shoulder. With right side facing, at the armhole edge, shape shoulder by casting off 9/9/9 stitches on the next and following alternate row. Purl 1 row and then cast off the remaining 8/9/10 stitches.
This completes the right front.

Sleeves

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and red contrast colour (R), cast on 66/70/74 stitches, and work 3 rows k2/p2 rib. Break yarn.
Change to main colour (M) and continue in rib until work measures
3½/4/3¼ inches from the beginning. Break yarn.
[Editor's note: You may be puzzled by the largest size having a smaller sleeve welt. This is to keep the sleeve length correct overall, while trying to keep to an exact sequence of the stripes.]

With right side facing, change to No 9 (3¾mm or 3½mm) needles and join in contrast to start working the striped stocking stitch pattern, increasing 18/19/20 stitches, evenly across the first row.
[84/89/94 sts].
Working in alternate stripes of 14 rows G, 14 rows M, as before; however, for the largest size 3, begin the stocking stitch with a stripe of main colour M, followed by G. This will ensure you end at the top of the sleeve with a stripe in the dark contrast G, as shown in the photo.

Increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 10th row, 11 times.
[106/111/116 sts].

Continue until work measures 20 / 20¾ / 21½ inches from the beginning, [Editor's note: This should be 126/128/140 rows in stocking stitch.], which should be an exact number of stripes, ending with the darker grey colour G - for the second (medium) size you should work 16 rows in colour G on this last stripe.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts or block lightly under a damp cloth, avoiding ribbing.
Join the shoulder seams.

Neck Border:
Using the set of 4 No 11 (3mm) needles and red contrast colour (R), pick up and knit 128/132/132 stitches evenly around the neck.
Work 3 rounds in K2/P2 rib, the 6 rounds in main shade (M), then 3 rounds in colour R. Cast off in rob using R.

Sew in sleeves. [Editor's note: The instructions are not explicit on this point but as the top of the sleeve is a straight edge, I would be inclined to sew it to the straight edge of the armhole, and sew the top half inch of the side of the sleeve to the cast off stitches of the armhole.]
Stitch side and sleeve seams.

Diagram showing dimensions for smallest size:

Materials

Double knitting yarn:
6/6/7 x 50g balls in light grey (M);
5/6/6 balls in darker grey (G);
1/2/2 ball dark red (R)

Pair each of
No 11 (3mm), and
No 9 (3¾mm or 3½mm) needles.
One set of 4 No 11 (3mm) needles.

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to four inches on 3½mm needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest:
40 / 42 / 44 inches,
[actual sizes approximately 2 inches larger];
length from top of shoulders:
26¼ / 26¾ /27¼ inches;
sleeve seam:
19½ / 20 / 21 inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row
M: main light grey
G: mid grey
R: wine red

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was mixed fibre double knitting equivalent.
Yardage was approximately 140 meters (153 yards) per 50g ball; this is the key point to note when substituting.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

The pattern is given in 3 sizes: 12 (18 : 24) months. Where only one set of instructions is given it applies to all sizes.
The body of the gown is worked as one piece up to the armholes.

Sleeves

With 5mm needles and main colour (M), cast on 22 (24 : 26) stitches and work 3 (3 : 4) cm in k1/p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for next row.
Work 1 row in purl increasing 7 stitches evenly across the row.
[29 (31 : 33) sts].

Now change to 6mm needles and stocking stitch following the Fair Isle colour pattern in the chart for the sleeve:

For the first size, begin with 1 stitch in black (B) then 1 in main shade (M); for the second size, begin with 1M, 1B, 1M; for the third size, begin with 4M, 1B, 1M, 1B, 1M.
Then follow the 16 stitch repeat shown in the chart.
At the same time, increase 1 stitch at each end of every 7th (8th : 10th) row 3 times, taking the stitches into the pattern.
[35 (37 : 39) sts].
Then work 3 (4 : 6) more rows, and then place a stitch marker or piece of coloured thread at each end of the row.

Continue in stocking stitch: for the smallest size, work the last 3 rows of the chart, then purl one row in main shade; for the second and third sizes work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Then for all sizes, change to 5mm needles and finish by working 4 rows in garter stitch.

Leave the stitches on a stitch holder or spare needle and work a second sleeve in the same way.

Body (knitted as a single piece)

Using size 5mm needles and main colour (M), cast on 113 (121 : 129) stitches and work 6 rows in garter stitch.

Change to 6mm needles and work 2 (2 : 6) rows in stocking stitch.

Continue stocking stitch and follow the Fair-Isle pattern working from the charts.

Work 2 rows as in Chart 1, commencing with 1M, 1B, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1M, 1B, as indicated.

Now work the 19 rows of the cat pattern from Chart 2, 4 times across the row, placing 3 (5 : 7) stitches between each group, and working 2 (3 : 4) stitches in main shade before the first and after the last group.

Work 2 rows as in Chart 3, commencing with 2M, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1B, 1M, as indicated.

Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.
Next, work 10 (17 : 17) rows of Chart 4, commencing 1M, 1B, 5M, then repeating the 16 stitch pattern across the row ending 1M, 1B, 5M, 1B, as indicated.

Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Repeat the 2 rows as in Chart 3, as before, (commencing with 2M, then repeating the 8 stitch pattern across the row ending 1B, 1M, as indicated).

Work 3 (2 : 2) rows in stocking stitch, and (wrong side facing) work 4 rows in garter stitch.

At this point you have completed 58 (64 : 68) rows and your work should measure 32 (35 : 38) cm.

Now you must divide the work and continue knitting the back and fronts separately.

Change to 5mm needles and work in k1/p1 rib as follows, casting off some stitches for the armholes, as well as decreasing across the row.

Next (right side facing, decrease) row: k2, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 2 (3 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, k1; place these 23 (25, 27 ) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder...
[Editor's note: this section of 23 (25, 27) stitches will form the right front.]
...and continue the row by casting off the next 6 stitches, then, continue the decreasing, after the stitch already on the needle from the casting off:
k1, (p1, k1) 3 (4 : 5) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 4 (4 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (4 : 5) times, k1; place these 47 (51, 55 ) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder...
[Editor's note: this section of 47 (51, 55) stitches will form the back.]
And continue the row by casting off the next 6 stitches, then, continue the decreasing, after the stitch already on the needle from the casting off:
k1, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 2 (3 : 4) times, p1, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 (3 : 3) times, k1.
[Editor's note: You are now going to continue to work on this last section of 23 (25, 27) stitches to complete the left front.]

Upper Left Front

Next row (wrong side facing): p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [23 (25 : 27) sts]

With right side facing, continue in k1/p1 rib for a further 19 (21 : 23) rows, then shape the neck as follows: cast off 3 (4 : 4) stitches on the next row, then 2 (2 : 2) on the following alternate row.
[18 (19 : 21) sts]

Continue to decrease at the neck edge, and shape shoulders as follows:
Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches and fasten off.

Upper Right Front

Rejoin yarn to the right front section at the front edge.

Next row (right side facing): k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [23 (25 : 27) sts]

With wrong side facing, continue in k1/p1 rib for a further 19 (21 : 23) rows, then shape the neck as follows: cast off 3 (4 : 4) stitches on the next row, then 2 (2 : 2) on the following alternate row.
[18 (19 : 21) sts]

Continue to decrease at the neck edge, and shape shoulders as follows:
Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib end.
Next row: k2tog, rib end.
Next row: Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches and fasten off.

Upper Back section

With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches in the centre.
Next row (wrong side facing): p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [47 (51 : 55) sts]

Work a further 26 (28 : 30) rows in k1/p1 rib.

Now shape shoulders and back neck by casting off 5 (5 : 6) stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (5 : 6) stitches, rib 15 (17 : 19) (including the stitch already on the needle), cast off 7 stitches, and rib to end.
Next row (right side facing): cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib 10 (11 : 12) (including the stitch already on the needle). Turn, and work each side of the next separately.
Next row: cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches, rib 6 (6 : 7) (including the stitch already on the needle). Turn.
Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches, and fasten off.

This completes the right side of the Back neck.

Rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches at the neck edge and, right side facing, rib one row.

Next row (wrong side facing): cast off 5 (6 : 6) stitches, rib 10 (11 : 12) (including the stitch already on the needle).
Next row: cast off 4 (5 : 5) stitches, rib 6 (6 : 7) (including the stitch already on the needle).
Cast off remaining 6 (6 : 7) stitches, and fasten off.

This completes the left side of the Back neck.

Button Band

Using 5mm needles, cast on 65 (71 : 77) stitches in main shade (B), and work in k1/p1 rib for 5 rows, keeping the 2 stitches at each end of the row in stocking stitch - like this:

Next row: k2, * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Next row: p2, * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

And so on for 5 rows in all.

Purl one row, then knit 3 rows in stocking stitch using waste yarn of a different colour. Leave these stitches on a spare needle or holder.

Make a second (right hand) band in the same way, adding 3 button holes on the 4th row:

4th row: k2, p1, k1, cast off 2, rib 10 (12 : 13), cast off 2, rib 10 (12 : 13), cast off 2, rib to end.
5th row: p2, then continue in rib as set, casting on 2 stitches over the 3 buttonholes where you cast off on previous row.
6th row: purl.

Complete with 3 rows of waste yarn as before.

Hood

Using 5mm needles, cast on 69 (73 : 75) stitches in main shade (B), and work in k1/p1 rib for 8 rows.

Change to 6mm needles and work 11 (13 : 15) rows in stocking stitch.
With wrong side facing, cast off 6 (7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then 7 (7 : 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
[15 (17 : 19) sts]

Wrong side facing, continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 3 times. [21 (23 : 25) sts]
Work 3 rows straight.

Right side facing, continue in stocking stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 6th (6th : 5th) row 3 (3 : 4) times. [15 (17 : 17) sts]
Work 9 (9 : 7) rows straight.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Sew shoulder and sleeve seams up to the coloured markers.
Fit the sleeves to the armholes, grafting the live stitches to the armhole edge, and sewing the sections of the sleeve seam left free to the stitches cast off at the armholes of the body.
[Editor's note: If grafting the stitches makes no sense to you, you can just cast these stitches off in the normal way and then sew the top of the sleeve to the armhole edge - and then sew the marked section of sleeve seam to the cast-off stitches of the body as instructed.]

Sew the button band, stitch by stitch, to the right side of the work using back stitch, (undo the rows of waste yarn).

Sew up the sides of the hood. Fold the front edge in half inwards and sew round like a hem to make a channel to thread the cord through.
Sew the hood to the neck, making sure you leave the hem open at the ends.
Make a 150cm twisted cord and 2 pompoms. Slide the cord through the hem of the hood. Attach the pompoms at each end.
Lightly iron the seams.

Finish the buttonholes with embroidery if desired, and sew on buttons.

Materials

Chunky or Bulky weight yarn in 50g approx 45m balls (see notes below):
7 (8 : 9) balls main pale blue shade (M) "Forget-Me-Not".
2 balls in dark blue/black (B) "Sloe".
2 balls in grey (G) "Mouse".
1 ball in Ecru. (E)

Pair each No 6 (5mm) and No 4 (6mm) needles.

3 buttons..

Tension

13 sts and 18 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on 6mm needles.

Size matters

Chest size:
20 (22 : 24) inches,
52 (56 : 60) cm;

length from top of shoulders:
18 (19½ : 21) ins,
46 (50 : 54) cm;

sleeve seam:
7½ (8¼ : 10) ins,
19 (21 : 25½) cm.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
garter stitch: knit every row.
sl1: slip one stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over

A Word on the Wool:

Original was knitted in a soft brushed chunky wool blend. Available information suggests it was sold in 50g balls with a yardage of about 45 metres per ball.

Be very careful in your choice of yarn and quantities when substituting though, as "big wool" can lead to big miscalculations - and needless to say - knit a swatch.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Mittens

This is a pattern for a very simple little pair of mittens in matching colours. The mittens are attached to a cord which is threaded through the armholes of a coat so that they can hang free at the ends of the sleeves if removed (and thus don't get lost).

With 5mm needles and dark contrast colour (B), cast on 18 (18 : 20) stitches and work 3 cm in k1/p1 rib.
Change to 6mm needles and work 12 (12 : 14) rows in stocking stitch. Then work as follows:

Next row: k1, sl1, k1, psso, k4 (4 : 5), k2tog, sl1, k1, psso, k4 (4 : 5), k2tog, k1.
[14 (14 : 16) sts]
Cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing, and thread it through the stitch and pull up.

To make up the mittens: sew up the sides.
In colour B, make a 130cm twisted cord and in main shade (M), make 2 pompoms. Slide the cord through the sleeves of the coat - if you are making them to go with the pattern above, you can attach the cord to the neck - so it stays permanently in place. Attach the mittens at each end and attach a pompom to each mitten,

Instructions

This is a very simple toy made up of fairly flat ovals, which should not be over-stuffed.

Body (2 pieces)

Using dark colour (B), cast on 12 stitches and work in striped stocking stitch following Chart 1 with stripes as follows:
Work 1 row in B, 1 row in G, 1 row in M, throughout.

(The chart shows casting on 2 stitches at the end of every row, until there are 28 stitches, then increase 1 stitch at each end of the next row [30 sts]; then working 29 rows straight, before starting to decrease 1 stitch at at each end of the next and every alternate row until 14 stitches remain).

Cast off using B.

Work a second side in the same way.

Head (2 pieces)

Using light colour (M), cast on 11 stitches and work in stocking stitch following Chart 2, (which shows increasing 1 stitch at each end of the third and every following alternate row until there are 21 stitches; then working 9 rows straight, before starting to decrease 1 stitch at at each end of the next and every alternate row until 11 stitches remain).

Work a second side in the same way.

Ears (2 pieces)

Using light colour (M), cast on 8 stitches, and work 10 rows straight.
Cast off.

Work a second ear in the same way.

Paws (4 pieces)

Using light colour (M), cast on 10 stitches and work in stocking stitch following Chart 3, (which shows working 6 rows straight, then decreasing 1 stitch at at each end of the next and every alternate row until 4 stitches remain).

Cast off.

Work a further 3 pieces in the same way.

Tail (1 piece)

Using dark colour (B), cast on 12 stitches and work 62 rows in striped stocking stitch as follows:
1 row in B, 1 row in G, 1 row in M, throughout.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Assemble the two faces of the body, the head and the paws. Sew, (right sides together) leaving an opening. Turn right side out, stuff, and sew closed.
Fold the rectangles of the ears in two to form a triangle, and sew on each side of the head.
Sew the head and paws to the body, as shown in the picture.
Sew an 8cm seam in backstitch, as indicated on Chart 1, starting from the bottom and the middle of the body, to indicate trousers.
Fold the tail in two lengthwise (wrong side out), sew the seam, turn right side out, stuff and close; fix it on the top of the back seam of the pants.
Embroider eyes, nose, mouth, and whiskers, in color B as shown in the photo.

Materials

Quick-knit or 5 ply:
1 ball in each of pale blue shade (M) "Forget-Me-Not", dark blue/black (B) "Sloe", and grey (G) "Mouse".

Pair of No 12 (2¾mm or 2½mm) needles which should be pointed at both ends, or circular.

Stuffing.

Tension

25 sts and 34 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch. However, as this is a toy the tension is less important - you just need to be consistent.

Size matters

Makes about a 10 inch toy.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A Word on the Wool:

The original yarn was a quick-knit - that is between a DK and a 4ply, either of which could be substituted - the toy would just end up a little larger or smaller.

The original yarn came in 50g balls of 160 metres.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Instructions are given for 3 sizes - the larger sizes are shown in brackets.

When working the pattern weave the yarns not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work; do not strand the threads over more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic, joining in and breaking off colours as required.

Back and Fronts (worked in one piece up to the armholes)

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade (R), cast on 194 [206, 218] stitches and work as follows:

1st row: k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

These two rows form the rib. Work a further 31 rows.

Next (increase) row: p9 [12, 4], m1, * p8 [7, 7], m1; repeat from * until p9 [12, 4] stitches remain; purl to end. {217 [233, 249] sts}

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and join in white (W). Weaving in the yarns not in use, work the 2-colour pattern entirely in stocking stitch, beginning, on the right side of the work, with a knit row. Note: only the colours are specified below.

1st row (knit): 3R, * 3W, 5R; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 3R instead of 5R.
2nd row (purl): 4R, * 1W, 7R; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 4R.
3rd row: knit across all stitches in red (R).
4th row: purl across all stitches in red (R).
5th row (knit): 2W, * 5R, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W.
6th row (purl): 1W, * 7R, 1W; repeat from * to end.
7th row: knit across all stitches in red (R).
8th row: purl across all stitches in red (R).

These 8 rows form the 2-colour pattern. Work a further 59 rows, up to the armholes, ending with a 3rd pattern row.

Divide to separate back and fronts: With red, (R) p51 [55, 59] stitches; increase in the next stitch and leave these 53 [57, 61] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder to be worked later for the left front;
p113 [121, 129] stitches, turn, and leave the remaining 52 [56, 60] stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder to be worked later for the right front.

Back

On these 113 [121, 129] stitches work the 36 row 3-colour pattern, weaving in the yarns not in use at the back of the work. Once again, the pattern is worked entirely in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row so only the colour details are shown. Join in blue (B).

1st row (knit): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1B, 4R.
2nd row (purl): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3B, 3R.
3rd row (knit): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 5B, 2R.
4th row (purl): 1R, * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.
5th row (knit): 4B, * 1W, 7B; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1W, 4B.
6th row (purl): 3B, * 3W, 5B; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3W, 3B.
7th row (knit): 2B, * 2W, 1B, 2W, 3B; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 2W, 1B, 2W, 2B.
8th row (purl): 1B, * 2W, 3B, 2W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
9th row (knit): 2W, * 5B, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W instead of 3W.
10th row (purl): 1W, * 7B, 1W; repeat from * to end.
11th row: knit across all stitches in blue (B).
12th row: purl across all stitches in blue (B).
13th row (knit): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
14th row (purl): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
15th row: knit across all stitches in white (W).
16th row: purl across all stitches in white (W).
17th row(knit): * 2W, 2R; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1W.
18th row(purl): * 2W, 2R; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1W.
19th row(knit): * 2R, 2W; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1R.
20th row(purl): * 2R, 2W; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains; 1R.

[Editor's note: Rows 21-36 are a repeat of rows 1-16 worked in exact mirror image so Row 21 is the same as row 16, row 22 is the same as row 15, and so on back to the first row the same as row 36..]

21st row: knit across all stitches in white (W).
22nd row: purl across all stitches in white (W).
23rd row (knit): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
24th row (purl): 1B, * 1W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
25th row: knit across all stitches in blue (B).
26th row: purl across all stitches in blue (B).
27th row (knit): 1W, * 7B, 1W; repeat from * to end.
28th row (purl): 2W, * 5B, 3W; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2W instead of 3W.
29th row (knit): 1B, * 2W, 3B, 2W, 1B; repeat from * to end.
30th row (purl): 2B, * 2W, 1B, 2W, 3B; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 2W, 1B, 2W, 2B.
31st row (knit): 3B, * 3W, 5B; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3W, 3B.
32nd row (purl): 4B, * 1W, 7B; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1W, 4B.
33rd row (knit): 1R, * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.
34th row (purl): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 7 stitches remain; 5B, 2R.
35th row (knit): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 6 stitches remain; 3B, 3R.
36th row (purl): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; 1B, 4R.

Break off blue and continue in the 2-colour pattern, beginning with the 3rd row. Work 10 [10, 14] rows.

Slope shoulders: Cast off 7 [6, 8] stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 7 [7, 8] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows, then cast off 6 [7, 7] stitches at the beginning of the next 8 rows.
Leave the remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Left Front

With right side facing, rejoin the yarns to the the inner (armhole) end of the 53 [57, 61] stitches, and work in the 3 colour pattern as follows.

1st row (knit): 4R, * 1B, 7R; repeat from * until 1 [5, 1] stitches remain; 1B [(1B, 4R), (1B)] .
2nd row (purl): 2B [(3R, 3B), (2B)] , * 5R, 3B; repeat from * until 3 stitches remain; 3R.
3rd row (knit): 2R, * 5B, 3R; repeat from * until 3 [7, 3] stitches remain; 3B [(5B,2R), (3B)]
4th row (purl): (4B, 1R) [(1R), (4B, 1R)] , * 7B, 1R; repeat from * to end.

These 4 rows set the position of the 3-colour pattern. Work a further 32 rows in pattern to match the back.

Break off blue (B).

With red (R) knit 1 row.

To shape the neck:

1st row (purl, wrong side facing): with red (R), cast off 9 [10, 11] stitches, purl to end.
2nd row (knit): 2W, * 5R, 3W; repeat from * until 2 [5, 8] stitches remain; k0 [(3R), (6R)]; k2tog in R.

** Keeping continuity of the 2-colour pattern to match the main part, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 5 rows — when working the right front read 6 rows here instead — {38 [41, 44] sts}.

Pattern 2 [2, 6] rows.

Slope shoulder: Cast off 7 [6, 8] stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 7 [7, 8] stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work one row, then cast off 6 [7, 7] stitches at the beginning of the next row, and 2 following alternate rows. Work one row.
Cast off remaining 6 [7, 7] stitches.

Right Front

With wrong side facing, rejoin red (R) at the the inner (armhole) end, increase in the first stitch, and purl to end. {53 [57, 61] sts}

Work in the 3 colour pattern as follows:

1st row (knit): 1B [(4R, 1B), (1B)], * 7R 1B; repeat from * until 4 stitches remain; 4R.
2nd row (purl): 3R, * 3B, 5R; repeat from * until 2 [6, 2] stitches remain; 2B [(3B, 3R), (2B)]
3rd row (knit): 3B [(2R,5B), (3B)] , * 3R, 5B; repeat from * until 2 stitches remain; 2R.
4th row (purl): * 1R, 7B; repeat from * until 5 [1, 5] stitches remain; (1R, 4B) [(1R), (1R,4B)].

These 4 rows set the position of the 3-colour pattern.
Work a further 32 rows in pattern to match the back.

Break off blue (B).

With red (R) work 2 rows.

To shape the neck:

1st row (knit, right side facing): with red (R), cast off 9 [10, 11] stitches; knit k1R [(4R), (2W, 5R)]; * 3W, 5R; repeat from * until 2 stitches remain; 2W.

Work as given for left front from ** to end, noting the variation.

Sleeves (both alike)

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade R, cast on 48 [48, 52] stitches and work 32 rows in double rib as for main piece.

Next (increase) row: k4, m1, * k1, m1; repeat from * until 4 stitches remain;k4. {89 [89, 97] sts}

Purl one row in red (R).

Change to No 8 (4 mm) needles and work 72 rows in the 2-colour pattern as given on main piece (back and fronts).

Work the 36 rows of the 3-colour pattern as given on back.
Break off blue (B) and white (W).

With red (R) knit one row, then cast off.

Button Band

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and blue (B) cast on 13 stitches, and work 158 [158, 162] rows in k1/p1 single rib, beginning odd numbered rows with k1, and even numbered rows with p1.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Buttonhole Band

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and blue (B) cast on 13 stitches, and work 6 [6, 10] rows in k1/p1 single rib, as given for button band.

1st (buttonhole) row: Rib 5, cast off 3 stitches, rib to end.
2nd (buttonhole) row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off, on previous row.
Rib 24 rows.

Repeat the last 26 rows 4 times more, then the 2 buttonhole rows again. Rib 19 more rows, leaving the stitches on the needle.

Neckband

Join shoulder seams.

Using the No 10 (3¼mm) needles holding the 13 stitches of the buttonhole band, and continuing the last row, pick up and knit 23 [24, 27] stitches from right neck shaping, knit across 37 [39, 41] stitches from the back, increasing 3 stitches evenly across, pick up and knit 23 [24, 27] stitches from left neck shaping, and finally rib across the 13 stitches (from the safety pin) of the button band. {112 [116, 124] sts}

1st rib row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * 5 times, k2; ** p2, k2; repeat from ** until 13 sts remain; p1, * k1, p1; repeat from this last * to end.
2nd rib row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * 5 times, p2; ** k2, p2; repeat from ** until 13 sts remain; k1, * p1, k1; repeat from this last * to end.

These two rows set the rib. Work 3 rows.

1st (buttonhole) row: Rib 5, cast off 3 stitches, rib as set to end.
2nd (buttonhole) row: Rib to end, casting on 3 stitches over those cast off, on 1st row.

Work 12 rows in rib as set, then work the 2 buttonhole rows again.
Rib 4 rows, cast off in rib.

Making Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side with a warm iron over a dry cloth, or following any instructions on the ball band.

Set sleeves into armholes, and join the sleeve seams.
Sew front bands to respective fronts.
Turn neckband in half to the wrong side, and catch in place. Oversew the buttonhole in the neckband.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

5 [5, 6] 50g balls DK in main shade (R) red, plus
2 [2, 3] balls (B) blue, and
2 [2, 3] balls (W) white.

Pair each No 8 (4mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

7 buttons.

Tension

26 stitches x 27 rows to 4 ins (10cm) over the pattern on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34 [36, 38] inches, (86 [91, 97] cm);
length: 22 [22,
22½] inches, (56 [56, 57½] cm);
sleeve seam: 19¾ [19¾, 19¾] inches, (50 [50, 50] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together.

inc: increase by working twice into the same stitch.

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of, both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker and others slightly thinner.

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

In my opinion a similar substitute would be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Instructions for two sizes as this is intended an "oversized" top - but, with the specified yarn as written, it measures up to 40 inches. However, you can see from the shape and construction method, it would be easy enough to expand, either by adding stitches or experimenting with a slightly less fine thread.

Mesh Pattern:

Multiple of 3 ch plus 7 ch to turn.
1st row: into 8th chain * work 1 dtr, 2 ch, miss 2 stitches; repeat from * to end.
2nd and following rows: 5 chain to turn, which counts as 1st dtr and 2 chain, * work 1 dtr into dtr of previous row, inserting hook under 3 strands, 2 chain, repeat from * to end.

Back and Front

The beach robe is worked in one piece, beginning at the lower front edge.
Using No 14 (2mm) hook, make 195(204) chain plus another 7 chain to turn, which count as 2 ch of base of 1 st, 1 dtr and 2 ch.
Work in mesh pattern. [66(69) dtr and 2 ch spaces]
[Editor's note: this notation "dtr and 2 ch space" indicates that you have that many "holes" in the mesh, each set of 3 chain make one "hole" plus 1 as part of the turning chains.]

Work straight.
When work measures 17 inches, on this row, add 30(33) chain plus 7 ch to turn, for the sleeves.
Leave these stitches and this end of the word for a moment - do not break yarn.
At the other end of the row, using another ball of the yarn, work 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the beginning of the row and than make 33(36) chain. Break yarn.
Return to other stitches and yarn at the other side of the piece, then work 1 dtr into the 8th chain, 2ch, work 10(11) dtr plus 2ch spaces as for foundation row of mesh pattern, continue across 66(69) dtr of main piece, then work 11(12) dtr across chain stitches.
[88(93) dtr and 2 ch spaces].

When work measures 26¾(27¼) inches, using 1 strand of yarn from a separate ball of yarn, make front neck opening.
Work 1 slst into the 24th(26th) dtr, counting from the sleeve edge, work 122 ch, miss 40(41) dtr, 1 slst into 24th(26th) dtr from the other end of the work .
Break yarn.

Now work in mesh pattern across (88(92) dtr and 2 ch spaces.

When work measures 9¾(10¼) inches from neck opening, leave 11(12) dtr unworked at each end of the row.
Work on 66(68) dtr at the centre of work.
When work measures 17 inches from under arm, work 10 rows in dc.
Fasten off.

Work a border of 10 rows in dc at the lower edge of the front and also and around the sleeves.
Work a border of 10 rows in dc along each side of the neck, opening, decreasing 1 dc at each end of every row.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth
Stitch side and under arm seams.
Close neck borders by stitching together at the sides..

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Fil d'Ecosse No 8, now discontinued but sometimes seen on eBay. This is quite a fine 100% cotton thread probably equivalent to a 3ply weight in wool. (Make sure you look for "No 8" cotton - there were other weights for this yarn - the higher the number the thicker the thread).
When substituting, compare the specified gauge and yardage per 50g to get a good match. You can search for "thread yarns", cottons for weaving, and cotton supplied on cones, as well as suitable fine knitting cottons..

At the current time of writing: Laughing Hens, Love Crafts, Yeoman Yarns, Yarnoncone

Materials

No 8 crochet cotton.
5 balls, each with a yardage of 285 metres.

No 14 (2mm) crochet hook.

For the purse: 25g No 8 crochet cotton.
1 button

Tension

13 dtrs x 10½ rows to 4 ins over mesh pattern using 2mm hook.
[39sts to 4inches in knitted stocking stitch]

Size matters

To fit size 10-12 (14); actual measurement: 40 (42) inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
yrh: yarn round hook
dtr: double treble: Pass wool twice round hook, insert hook into st, pull 1 loop through, yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, pull through remaining 2 loops.
slst: slip stitch.

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Neck Purse

Back and Flap:
Begin this first sections the with flap edge.
Using No 14 (2mm) crochet hook, make 15 chain plus 1 chain to turn.
Work 1 dc into 2nd chain from hook, then continue in dc to end[15 dc].
1st row: 2 dc into 1st dc, 13 dc, 2 dc into last dc.
2nd, 3rd, 4th, 6th, 8th, and 10th rows:Work 2 dc into first and last dc.
5th, 7th, and 9th rows:Work straight
[29 dc]
11th row: Work a buttonhole at centre of work: work 13 dc, 3 ch, miss 3 sts, 13 dc.

Work straight until 58th row has been completed.
Decrease 1 dc at each end of the row, by missing 1st dc and last but one dc, on 59th, 61st, 63rd, 65th, 66th, 67th and 68th rows.
Fasten off.

Make a second section for the Front:
Make 29 chain plus 1 chain to turn.
Work 29 dc across row for 23 rows. Decrease at each end of the row (by missing 1 st st and last but one st) on the 24th, 26th, 28th, 30th, 31st, 32nd and 33rd rows.
Fasten off.

Borders:
Rejoin yarn at the 33rd row of the beginning of the first (back and flap) section.
Work slst all the way round, working as follows:
Into the straight sections: * 1 slst into each row end 3 times, miss 1 row end, repeat from *.
Into curved sections: work 1 slst into each row end,
At the ends: work 1 slst into each dc.

1st row: On wrong side of work, work in dc, taking in the whole thickness
of the chain formed by the slst row.
Work a 2nd row, inserting hook into both dc of 1st row and into one thread from the edge of work. (This ensures that work lies flat and does not curl up.) This is to be worked across the top edge of flap only.

On front section of purse, work the row of slst then on wrong side of work, 1 row in dc.
Join the 2 sections with 1 row of slst.
Sew on button.
Make a cord by twisting 12 strands of wool, about 3¼ yards long. [The finished cord should measure about 34 inches].

Instructions.

Size could be modified by adding stitches or rows, or using a thicker yarn to change the tension - see "a Word on the Wool".

Main section

Using tan beige colour (G) make 80 chain, plus one chain to turn.

Work in dc inserting hook into the back of the loop only.
(This gives a ridged effect to the work).

Work in stripes as follows;

6 rows in B (tan)
4 rows in C (red)
4 rows in B (tan)
1 row in C (red)
3 rows in A (pink)
1 row in D (purple)
1 row in C (red)
1 row in B (tan) - centre of stripe sequence.

Now reverse the sequence:

1 row in C (red)
1 row in D (purple)
3 rows in A (pink)
1 row in C (red)
4 rows in B (tan)
4 rows in C (red)
6 rows in B (tan)

Fasten off

Side Gussets

Using dark blue or purple colour (D) make 30 chain, plus one chain to turn. Work 8 rows in dc, inserting hook into the back loop only.
Fasten off.

Work a second gusset in the same way.

Handle

Using tan beige colour (B) make 200 chain, plus one chain to turn. Work 4 rows in dc, inserting hook into the back loop only.
Fasten off.

To Make Up

Fold under a hem of 5 dc at each end of the bag.
Working from the centre (see diagram), stitch the handles onto the bag positioned over the 4 rows in colour B, and looping round to form two handles..
Sew in the gussets, by sewing the longer edge of the bag evenly around three sides of each gusset, noting that the bag is a little longer than the gussets.
Work a border of dc at each end of the bag, around the gussets, using pink colour (A).

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a dense 100% acrylic carpet wool, with only 25m to a 50g ball. It appears to be a chunky yarn designed for use with a 6mm hook - so this bag, using a 4mm hook, is designed to be made very tight and firm to keep the shape of the bag. (Possibly hard work on the fingers).
When substituting, use the yardage to calculate quantities.

I have seen Herdwick used to good effect for this type of bag. You may have to buy it as an aran weight and use it double for this pattern; of course you would be fairly limited in colour scheme.
Also it could be a good use of handspun - spin to a suitable thickness using a high(ish) twist to make it coarser, and experiment to get the tension and firmness that you need.

Finally, this could be a good way to use up remnants - always provided you can achieve the required tension, or make your own calculations to compensate. The bag is simply a mirror image of one set of stripes, so divide your remnants into 2 equal parts, either by weight or length before you begin - or alternatively - go wild and make an asymmetric pattern!

Materials

The yarn is a chunky carpet wool:
2 balls in fuchsia pink (A), 9 in tan (B), 2 in red (C), 3 in dark blue or purple (D).

One No 8 (4mm) crochet hook.

Tension

8¼ sts and 9½ rows to 4 inches in dc.

Size matters

The body of the bag as designed is about 17 inches wide, 15 inches high, and 4 inches deep.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Instructions for 4 sizes are given between "/".
[Editor's Note: This is a simple enough basic pattern - however, the pattern assumes you understand how crochet works with little or no instruction on increasing and descreasing or other techniques, so please ensure you are comfortable with the instructions before starting. I am happy to help if you need to contact me.]

Back

Using 3mm hook and white, make 120/124/128/132 chain, plus 1 ch to turn.
Work in striped dc (2 rows in each colour), working a row of holes on the second row in white as follows:
1st and 3rd sizes: 3 dc, * 2ch, miss 2 stitches, 2 dc; repeat from *.
2nd and 4th sizes: 1 dc, * 2ch, miss 2 stitches, 2 dc; repeat from *.

From the 26th row, decrease 1 stitch - by missing the first and last dc - at each end of every 12th row 7 times.
[106/110/104/118 dc]
[Editor's Note: As you can see in the diagram at the end, the top is wider at the bottom and tapers slightly up to the armhole. The eyelets at the bottom are designed so that it can gathered at the hip (not obvious in the photo). If you want a straight tee, you can start here with 106/110/104/118 dc, omit the eyelet row, and work straight in striped dc up to the armholes]

Continue until work measures 17 inches.

Shape armholes:
Decrease 5 dc at each end of the next row.
Then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 6/6/7/8 rows.
Then decrease 1 dc at each end of every alternate row 2/3/3/3 times.
[80/82/84/86 dc]

When work measures 21½ inches, increase 1 stitch at each end of the next row, then increase again when work measure 22¾ inches.

When work measure 23½/24/24/24¼ inches, shape shoulder by decreasing at each end of every row as follows: (the first decrease should be on the second row of the blue colour)

Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next 1/1/1/3 rows.
Decrease 3 dc at each end of the next 3/3/1/1 rows.
Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next 1/1/1/1 rows.
Decrease 3 dc at each end of the next 0/0/1/0 rows.
Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next 0/0/1/0 rows.

This leaves 17/17/18/19 dc. Fasten Off.

Front

Work as for the Back until work measures 21/21/21¼/21¼ inches, after completing 2 rows in blue colour. Shape the neck by leaving the centre 16/18/18/18 dc unworked. Work on one side only, and decrease at the neck edge:
Decrease 2 dc at the neck edge of the next 2 rows.
Then decrease 1 dc at the neck edge of the next 4 rows.
* Work one row straight, then decrease 1 dc at the neck edge of the next 3 rows.
Repeat from * twice more.

When work measures 21½ inches and 22¾, increase 1 dc at the armhole edge as you did on the Back.

When work measures 23½/24/24/24¼ inches, on the second row of the blue colour, shape shoulder as for one side of the Back.

Then work the other side of the neck to match, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

Using 3mm hook and white, make 70/72/74/76 chain, plus 1 ch to turn, and work 6 rows in dc.

The continue with striped dc beginning with the blue colour.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 6th row 4 times.
[78/80/82/84 dc]

When work measures 5¾/6/6/6¼ inches, shape armhole:

Decrease 4 dc at each end of the next row.
Then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 3/4/5/5 rows.
* Work one row straight, then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 3 rows.
Repeat from * 4 times more.

Work one row straight, then decrease 1 dc at each end of the next 4 rows.
Then decrease 2 dc at each end of the next 2 rows.

Fasten off.

Front neck and shoulder borders:

Using the white colour, with right side of front facing, work 17/17/18/19 sl st across one shoulder, then 58/61/61/61 sl st around neck, then 17/17/18/19 sl st across other shoulder.
Turn, and on wrong side of work, work in dc, taking in the whole thickness of the chain formed by sl st row, working 3 dc into the dc on the corner of the shoulder and the neck on both sides, to ease round the corner.

Crochet straight on the next 2 rows, then on the 4th row, work 13/13/14/15 dc, * 2 dc into next stitch, 1 dc, repeat from * 3 times more, (again easing round the corner). Work in the same way on the corner at the other side.
Work the 5th and 6th rows straight. Fasten off.

Back neck and shoulder borders:

Using the white colour, with right side of front facing, work 1 row in sl st over each dc.
Then work in dc, taking in the whole thickness of the chain formed by sl st row.
On the 4th row, decrease 6 dc evenly over the dc on the back neck.
Work the 5th and 6th rows straight. Fasten off.

Making Up

Cross front shoulder borders over back.
Stitch shoulders for 2¾ to 3¼ inches.
Stitch side and sleeve seams.
Sew in sleeves.
Make a thin cord in white colour then thread through row of holes and tie at hips.

Materials

Cotton yarn equivalent to 3 or 4ply yarn weight.
4/5/5/5 balls yarn in blue, plus,
5/5/6/6 balls in white.
Editor's note: Ball weight is assumed to be 50g.

3mm crochet hook

Tension

23½ dc and 28 rows to 4 inches using 3mm hook

Size matters

10 / 12 / 14 / 16
[33 / 35 / 37 / 39 inch chest]

Approximate actual measurement: 36/38/40/42 inches.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
dc: double crochet
Striped dc: * 2 rows white, 2 rows blue, repeat from *

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn is not one with which I am familiar and I can find no external references to it. Hence I have little idea of the thickness or yardage. Making some assumptions, based on the description, tension, and the other crochet tops, it should be a cotton blend, probably a 4 ply equivalent, with possibly around 130m to 50g. Needless to say - check the tension with a swatch, and don't skimp when purchasing the yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Note: When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand the yarns loosely across the back of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time, to keep the fabric elastic.
Work from the chart, reading odd rows knit from right to left and even rows purl from left to right.

Back

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade (MS), cast on 106 [114, 120, 128] stitches and work in K1/P1 for 2½ inches, ending with a right side row.

Next row: Rib 1 [5, 4, 4] * m1, rib 4; repeat from * to last 1 [5, 4, 4] stitches, m1, rib 1 [5, 4, 4].
(133 [141, 149, 159] sts).

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and work in pattern from the chart, joining in and breaking off colours as required, working the first 4 [1, 5, 3] and last 3 [0, 4, 2] stitches on knit rows, and the first 3 [0, 4, 2], and the last 4 [1, 5, 3] stitches on purl row as indicated, and working the 14 stitch repeat pattern 9 [10, 19, 11] times across in between.

Continue until back measures 14½ inches, ending with a wrong side row.

**

Shape Armholes:
Keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 9 [11, 11, 15] rows, then at each end of every alternate row until 95 [99, 105, 109] stitches remain.

Work without further shaping until back measures 22½ [23, 23, 23½] inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders:
Cast off 8 [9, 9, 10] stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 9 [8, 10, 9] stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
(45 [47, 49, 51] sts).

Leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back up to **.

Shape Armholes and Neck:

Next row: keeping pattern correct, cast off 6 stitches, and pattern until 60 [64, 68, 73] stitches are on the right hand needle; turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on first set of stitches only.
Work one row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 9 [11, 11, 15] rows, and then on every alternate row, at the same time, decrease 1 stitches at the neck edge on the next row, and every alternate row until 38 [39, 41, 42] stitches remain.

Then continue to decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge only on every alternate row until 32 [34, 37, 39] stitches remain. Then decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge only on every following 3rd row until 25 [26, 28, 29] stitches remain.

Work without further shaping until front matches back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 8 [9, 9, 10] stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
(9 [8, 10, 9] sts).

Work one row, and then cast off.

With right side facing, slip centre stitch on to a safety pin, and rejoin yarn to the remaining 66 [70, 74, 79], and pattern to end.

Work to match the first side, reversing the shaping.

Making Up

Press lightly using a cool iron and dry cloth - or as instructed on the ball band - omitting the ribbing.

Join right shoulder seam.

Neckband: With right side facing, No 12 needles and MS, pick up and knit 72 [76, 78, 82], stitches down left neck, knit stitch from safety pin (mark this stitch with a coloured thread), pick up and knit 72 [76, 78, 82], stitches up right neck, then knit 45 [47, 49, 51] stitches from Back, decreasing 3 stitches evenly.
(187 [197, 203, 213] sts).

1st row wrong side facing): * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before the marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl; ** k1, p1; repeat from ** to end.

2nd row: k1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before the marked stitch, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl, k1; ** p1, k1; repeat from ** to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then the 1st row again.
Cast off evenly in rib, decreasing at marked stitch as before.
Join left shoulder and neckband.

Armhole Borders: With right side facing, No 12 needles and MS, pick up and knit 118 [124, 132, 138], stitches round each armhole.

Work in k1/p1 rib for 9 rows.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Join side seams and armhole borders.
Press seams.

Materials

2 x 50g balls 4 ply in each of the three colours (all sizes).

Pair each No 12 (2¾mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

32 stitches x 32 rows to 4 ins (10cm) measured over pattern using 2¾mm needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 32 [34, 36, 38] inches;
length: 22½ [23, 23, 23½] inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

p2togtbl: purl 2 stitches together through back loops.

A word on the wool

The original design was in Patons Clansman 4ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions for Crew Neck Version.

Instructions for 5 sizes - larger sizes are shown in brackets.

Charts

When working the colour pattern from the chart, strand yarn not in use loosely across the wrong side of the work over not more than 3 stitches at a time in order to keep the fabric elastic.
Read odd rows knit from right to left, and even rows purl from left to right.

The chart is included with the pattern instructions below, but for a larger version of the chart you can right click >>here<< and choose "save link as" or "save target as" (browser dependent options) to download and save a pdf file.

If you want to view chart image full size in the browser then right click on the image below and choose "view image".

Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 61 [65, 71, 77, 81] stitches and work in rib as follows:

1st row (right side): k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 row for 5cm ending with a a first row (wrong side facing
for next row).

Next row: Rib 8 [4, 8, 10, 5] m1; (rib 15 [8, 11, 19, 10], m1) 3 [7, 5, 3, 7] times, rib to end. (65 [73, 77, 81, 89] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and work 34 rows in pattern from the chart, working the first and last 8 [12, 14, 0, 4] stitches of each row as indicated for each size, and working the 16 stitch repeat pattern in between.

After completing the first 34 rows, work a further 6 [18, 26, 38, 40] rows in the pattern thus ending with a 6th [18th, 26th, 4th, 6th] pattern row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape raglans by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

3rd, 4th and 5th sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 4th row.
( - [-, 65, 69, 77] sts).
Work 1 row.

All sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 23 [25, 27, 29, 31] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Front

Work as for Back until 37 [43, 45, 47, 49] stitches remain in raglan shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, divide for neck as follows:
Next row: k2tog, pattern 11 [13, 14, 14, 15], turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Continue on these 12 [14, 15, 15, 16] stitches for the first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row, and at the same time decreasing 1 stitch at the raglan edge on every alternate row until 6 [8, 8, 8, 7] stitches remain.

Work 1 [1, 0, 0, 1] rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at the raglan edge only on he next and every alternate row until 2 stitches remain.
Work 1 row.
Next row: k2tog, and fasten off.

With right side facing, slip centre 11 [13, 13, 15, 15] stitches on a length of yarn or stitch holder, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches, pattern to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.

Work to match first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 31 [31, 39, 39, 39] stitches and work in rib as on back for 5 [5, 6, 6, 6] cm, ending with a 1st row and wrong side facing for next row.

Next row: Rib 8 [8, 10, 10, 10] m1; rib 15 [15, 19, 19, 19], m1; rib to end. (33 [33, 41, 41, 41] sts).

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and joining in and breaking off colours as required, and starting with a 19th row, work in pattern as for 1st [1st, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd] size of the Back at the same time shaping sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd [7th, 3rd, 7th, 3rd] and every following 6th [7th, 12th, 14th, 12th] row until there are 49 [49, 53, 53, 57] stitches, taking the increase stitches into the pattern.

Materials

50g balls DK in 3 colours: main shade (MS) plus 2 contrasts:
3 [4, 4, 5, 5] M;
1 [1, 1, 2, 2] C1*;
1 [1, 1, 1, 1], C2.
* may be only one ball of C1 required for all sizes if working the collared version.

Pair each No 7 (4½mm), No 8 (4mm), and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Tension

23 stitches x 30 rows to 4 ins (10cm) in stocking stitch on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 22 [24, 26, 28, 30] inches, (56 [61, 66, 71, 76]cm) actual measurement allows 1-2 inches of ease;
length from top of shoulders: 12 [14, 15½, 17½, 19] inches, (30 [36, 40, 45, 48]cm);
sleeve seam: 9½ [11, 12, 14, 15½] inches, (24 [28, 31, 35, 39] cm).

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal
loop lying before next stitch and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles without knitting it.

A word on the wool

The original yarn was Patons Moorland Tweed/Shetland double knitting. Moorland was 100% wool with a suggested yardage of 137 yds (125m) - although this was not printed on the ball bands at that time.

A similar substitute might be Rowan Felted Tweed DK.

"Always check your tension" [Good Advice].

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Continue in pattern until sleeve seam measures: 9½ [11, 12, 14, 15½] inches, (24 [28, 31, 35, 39] cm), ending with the same pattern row as on the Back at the start of the raglan shaping, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping the continuity of the pattern, shape raglans by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every 4th row until [33, 37, 35, 37] stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

All sizes:
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 7 stitches remain.
Work 1 row.

Leave remaining stitches on a safety pin.

Making Up and instructions for crew neck

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
Join raglans, leaving left back raglan open.

Make Neck Border:
With right side facing, No 10 (3¼mm) needles, and MS, k7 from left sleeve, pick up and knit 12 [12, 16, 16, 16] stitches down left side of neck, k11 [13, 13, 15, 15] from front, pick up and knit 12 [12, 16, 16, 16] stitches up right side of neck, k7 from right sleeve, then 23 [25, 27, 29, 31] from the Back, increasing 1 stitch at the centre.
(73 [77, 87, 91, 93] sts).

Starting with a 2nd row, work in rib as for the Back for 5 [5, 6, 6, 6] cm.
Using a No 8 (4mm) needle, cast off loosely in rib.

Join remaining raglan and Crew Neck seam.
Fold Crew Neck in half to wrong side and slip-hem loosely in position.
Join side and sleeve seams.

Making Up and instructions for collar

Work as for Crew Neck Version but casting off stitches loosely at back of neck, front of neck, and top of sleeves.

With wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges, and omitting ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side following instructions (if any) on the ball band.
Join raglan, side, and sleeve seams.

Make collar:
With No 10 (3¼mm) needles and MS, cast on 73 [77, 81, 85, 89] stitches and work in rib as follows:

1st row (right side): k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more then the 1st row again.
Next row: Rib to last 2 stitches, turn.
Next 2 rows: sl1, rib to last 2 stitches, turn.
Next 2 rows: sl1, rib to last 4 stitches, turn.
Next 2 rows: sl1, rib to last 6 stitches, turn.

Continue thus until the 2 rows "sl1, rib to last 16 stitches, turn" have been worked.
Next row: sl1, rib to end

Continue in rib across all stitches until Collar measures 3cm at the side edge.

Using a No 8 (4mm) needle, cast off evenly in rib.
Sew cast-off edge of collar in position all round neck as in photograph.

Press seams.

Instructions.

Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

Make knot (MK) in pattern as follows:
(k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) loosely all in the next stitch; then with point of left-hand needle, pass the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th stitches on the right-hand needle over the first stitch one at a time.

Back

With No 9 needles cast on 98 [104 : 110: 116 : 122] stitches.
1st row: p2, (kb1, p2) to end.
2nd row: k2, (pbl, k2) to end.

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 18 stitches and
leave on a spare needle.
With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 98 [103 : 107 : 111 : 119] stitches.

Change to No 2 (7 mm) needles and work in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7]; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 16 [13 : 15 : 17 : 14] stitches; p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7].
2nd row: p7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, p4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
3rd row: k8 [5 : 7 : 9 : 6]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1] stitches, k3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1]
4th row: p6 [3 : 5 : 7 : 4]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1 , increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
5th row: k7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, k4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
6th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
7th row: k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], p1; * k1, p2, k7, p2, k1, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3]stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
8th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
9th row: k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], p1;* k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] .
10th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1 , kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
11th row: k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], p1; * (k1, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5[2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
12th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until Back measures 10 inches (25 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 3, (6½ mm), needles, and keeping continuity of pattern, work Pocket Linings as follows:
Next row: Cast on 18 stitches, knit across these 18 stitches, then in pattern to end, then kit across 18 stitches that you left on the
spare needle earlier (131 [139 : 143 : 147 : 155] sts).
Next row: p18, pattern to last 18 stitches, p18.
Next row: k18, pattern to last 18 stitches, k18.

Repeat the last 2 rows 13 times more, then the first of these 2 rows again, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Next row: Cast off 18 stitches, pattern to last 18 stitches, cast off remaining stitches. Break yarn.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and continue in pattern until Back measures 21½ inches (55 cm).

Change to No 4 (6 mm) needles and continue in pattern until Back measures 26½ inches (67 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape armholes, by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 5 [7 : 7 : 7 : 9] rows.
Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate
row until 71 [73 : 77 : 81 : 83] stitches remain.
Work straight until Back measures 35 [35½ : 36 : 36¼ : 36¾] inches, (89 [90 : 91: 92: 93] cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape shoulders by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 6 [6 : 7 : 8 : 8] stitches at the beginning of the
following 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 31 [33 : 35 : 37 : 39] stitches.

Left front

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 55 [61 : 63 : 65 : 67] stitches.
Change to No 2 (7 mm) needles and work in pattern as follows: 1st row (wrong side facing): k11 [6 : 6 : 6 : 11]; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 16 [13 : 15 : 17 : 14] stitches, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7].
2nd row: p7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5], * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6] stitches, p6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6].
3rd row: k10 [5 : 5 : 5 : 10]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1] stitches, k3 [0 : 2 : 4 : 1].
4th row: p6, [3 : 5 : 7 : 4]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1, increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
5th row: k9 [4 : 4 : 4 : 9]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, k4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
6th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
7th row: k7 [2, 2, 2, 7], p1; * k1, p2, k7,p2, k1, p1 ; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] .
8th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] , kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
9th row: k7 [2, 2, 2, 7], p1; * k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
10th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
11th row: k7 [2, 2, 2, 7], p1, * (k3, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3] stitches, k5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3].
12th row: p5 [2 : 4 : 6 : 3], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, p7 [2, 2, 2, 7].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until Front measures 10 inches (25 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 3, (6½ mm), needles and keeping continuity of pattern, shape for Pocket Border as follows:
Next row: Cast off 5 stitches, pattern to end.
(50 [56, 58, 60, 62] sts)
Work 29 rows in pattern.

Next row: Cast on 5 stitches, pattern across these stitches, pattern to end. (55 [61, 63, 65, 67] sts).

Continue in pattern until 32 rows less than on Back have been worked before start of armhole shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of pattern, shape front slope as follows:

1st size: Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next row, and then at the same edge on every following 3rd row until 44 stitches remain, noting that when Front measures 21½ inches (55 cm), change to No 4 (6 mm) needles.

2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th sizes: Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next, and every following alternate row until - [54, 54, 56, 60] stitches remain, then decrease 1 stitch at the front edge
on every following 3rd row until - [48, 49, 51, 55] stitches remain, noting that when Front measures 21½ inches (55 cm), change to No 4 (6 mm) needles.

All sizes: Work 1 row, thus ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape armhole by casting off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next row.

Next row: Work 2tog, pattern to end.

Decrease 1 stitch at armhole edge on next 5 [7 : 7 : 7 : 9] rows, then on he following 2 [3 : 3 : 3 : 4] alternate rows, and at the same time decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on every 3rd row from previous decrease until 28 [28 : 29 : 31 : 31] stitches remain.

Continue decreasing 1 stitch at the front edge only on every 3rd row from previous decrease until 20 [20 : 21 : 22 : 22] stitches remain.
Work straight until Front matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape shoulder by casting off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 6 [6 : 7 : 8 : 8] stitches.

Right front

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 5 stitches and leave on a spare needle.

With No 3, (6½ mm), needles, cast on 55 [61 : 63 : 65 : 67] stitches.
Change to No 2 (7 mm) needles and work in pattern as follows: 1st row (wrong side facing): k9 [6 : 8 : 10 : 7]., * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 18 [13 : 13 : 13 : 18] stitches; p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k11 [6 : 6 : 6 : 11].
2nd row: p9 [4 : 4 : 4 : 9], * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2] stitches, p4 [1 : 3 : 5 : 2].
3rd row: 8 [5 : 7 : 9 : 6]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 5 [0 : 0 : 0 : 5] stitches, k5 [0 : 0 : 0 : 5].
4th row: p8, [3 : 3 : 3 : 8]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1, increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
5th row: k7 [4 : 6 : 8 : 5]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6] stitches, k6 [1 : 1 : 1 : 6].
6th row: p7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
7th row: k5 [2, 4, 6, 3], p1; * k1, p2, k7,p2, k1, p1 ; repeat from * to last 7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7] stitches, k7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7] .
8th row: p7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7], kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
9th row: k5 [2, 4, 6, 3], p1; * k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7] stitches, k7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7].
10th row: p7 [2 : 2 : 2 : 7], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].
11th row: k5 [2, 4, 6, 3], p1, * (k3, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 7 [2, 2, 2, 7] stitches, k7 [2, 2, 2, 7].
12th row: p7 [2, 2, 2, 7], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last 5 [2, 4, 6, 3] stitches, p5 [2, 4, 6, 3].

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until Front measures 10 inches (25 cm), ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 3, (6½ mm), needles and keeping continuity of pattern, shape for Pocket Border as follows:
Next row: Pattern to last 5 stitches; cast off these 5 stitches.
(50 [56, 58, 60, 62] sts). Break yarn,

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn and work 29 rows in pattern.
Next row: Pattern to end, then pattern across 5 stitches from spare needle. (55 [61, 63, 65, 67] sts).

Continue in pattern and complete to correspond with the Left Front, reversing shapings and changing needles as required.

Sleeves

With No 4 (6 mm) needles, cast on 53 [53, 57, 61, 61] stitches, and work 7 rows garter stitch (every row: sl1k, knit to end).
Next row: k2 [2, 4, 3, 3]; * m1, k7 [7, 7, 8, 8]; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 2, 2] stitches, m1, knit to end.
(61 [61, 65, 69, 69] sts).

Now work in pattern as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing),: k6 [6, 8, 10, 10]; * p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k7; repeat from * to last 13 [13, 15, 17, 17] stitches, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, K6 [6, 8, 10, 10].
2nd row: p4 [4, 6, 8, 8], * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3; repeat from * to last 1 [1, 3, 5, 5] stitches, p1 [1, 3, 5, 5].
3rd row: k5 [5, 7, 9, 9]; * p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5; repeat from * to last 0 [0, 2, 4, 4] stitches, k0 [0, 2, 4, 4].
4th row: p3 [3, 5, 7, 7]; * p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1, p1, increase 1 st purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1 ; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
5th row : K4 [4, 6, 8, 8]; * p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k3; repeat from * to last 1 [1, 3, 5, 5] stitches, p1 [1, 3, 5, 5].
6th row: p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], kb1; * p1, k2, p3, MK, p3, k2, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
7th row: k2 [2, 4, 6, 6], p1, * k1, p2, k7, p2, k1, p1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, k2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
8th row: p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], kb1; * increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, kb1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
9th row—k2 [2, 4, 6, 6], p1; * k2, p2, k5, p2, k2, p1; repeat from * to last [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, k2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
10th row—p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], kb1; * p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, k2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k2, increase 1 stitch purlwise, p1, kb1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
11th row—k2 [2, 4, 6, 6], p1; * (k3, p2) twice, k3, p1; repeat from * to last 2 [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, k2 [2, 4, 6, 6].
12th row—p2 [2, 4, 6, 6], MK; * p3, k2, p1, kb1, p1, k2, p3, MK; repeat from * to last [2, 4, 6, 6] stitches, p2 [2, 4, 6, 6].