Time for Change (... or "Fall Back")
Here is my second autumn version of the quirky clock, which I have refurbished
in a similar way to that which I did in the spring. For the method used
to disassemble and reassemble the clock - please see the "Spring
Forward" entry for March 2010.
Read all those instructions first, then use the pattern here for the clock face.
Making the clock
As before it is important to remember that if you make a thicker clock
face, it may interfere with the proper function of the clock hands. This
pattern is for my original visualisation of a lovely thick Aran clock,
but to achieve this I had to replace the clock mechanism in the IKEA clock
with one with a higher loft. The clock face is thick all over not just
towards the edges, so trimming the hands is not sufficient. If you do
change the mechanism like this then you have to carefully check how high
you can make the hands above the clock face while still being able to
fit the plastic cover over the face.
Clock movements and hands were purchased from A A Plastics. I tried both the 15mm and the 20mm shaft sizes, and settled on the latter.
Original clock came from IKEA.
Aran yarn was two different makes of left-overs - one for the face section and one for the edging section. Take care to match the shades of cream - there is a lot of variation in tone as well as thickness. The latter is less important for this project, just make sure you don't change yarn in the middle of one of the sections.
Using 3¾mm needles and waste yarn, cast on 24 stitches, then, leaving a 6 inch tail, start using the cream aran yarn, and knit one row. Join in a circle and begin pattern as follows:
Row 1: (Twist 2; p1) 8 times. [Twist
2 by knitting through the second stitch on the left hand needle and then
knitting through the first stitch and slipping both stitches off the needle
together - effectively you have cabled over 2 stitches].
Return to the centre. Carefully remove the waste yarn and pick up the
The face is not quite flat making the effect of the cables and bobbles more overt. Sew in the ends and press lightly with a damp cloth, taking care not to flatten the cables.
Using the plastic clock face cover as a guide, cut a circle from stiff cardboard. and make a hole in the centre. Sew the knitted face to the cardboard at the edge, which pulls it into shape.
Put the clock face into the body, keeping the bobbles at the 12, 3, 6
and 9 positions.
Knitted frame for the clock
The clock frame consists of 12 ribbed cables each with a centre bobble.
It is designed to fit tightly, (so slightly stretched), aided by keeping
the edge stitches in garter stitch.
C3Lk = cable 3 to the left and knit: slip 3 sts on cable needle
and leave at front of work; k1, then k1, p1, k1 from cable needle.
C7 = cable over 7 stitches: slip next 4 sts on to a cable needle and leave at the back of the work; k1, p1, k1, then p1, k1, p1, k1, from cable needle.
Make bobble: increase 4 sts by (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) into next stitch; turn the work and knit the 5 sts; turn the workand decrease the 4 sts just made by slipping 4 sts, k1, then pass the 4 slipped sts over.
Using 3¾mm needles, cast on 15 sts and begin the 16 row pattern:
Row 1: Slip1, k1; k1, p1, k1; p5;
k1, p1, k1; k2
Repeat rows 3-18 eleven times more. Cast off.
Attach the knitted circle to the clock with the slipped stitch edge towards the clock face, and attach the other side to the rim of the clock; I drilled holes around the plastic clock surround, (as before), about ¼ inch from the edge.