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Archive entry for April 2017

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April 2017

Sail Away - pullover

TabardPullover.jpg

I admit that including the word "tabard" in the description of a pattern is not so inspiring - for one such as I anyway, a teenager in an era where tabards were ubiquitous and possibly naff even then. However it was named prior to that time and is after all merely descriptive - and I love this pullover. Styled perfectly as shown, worn over a polo-neck - very glamorous, very European, very sixties.

Sail away on a windy day in this attractive tabard style overpull. Jaunty and gay in snug and wind-proof yarn -- heavier than double-knit, yet so light and crisp in feeling. Gold and dark blue colour bands stripe the lower edges and smart side slits, and note the special crew neckline, designed to slip easily over a polo sweater.

Instructions.

Instructions for three sizes with larger sizes given in bold or colour between slashes.
Where one set of figures is given this applies to all sizes.

The pattern is in three colours - White is represented by W, Gold by G and Navy Blue by B.

Back and Front alike (knit 2)

With No 7 needles and white yarn W, cast on 76/82/88 stitches and work straight in stocking stitch until piece measures 17/17/17½ ins,
ending with a purl row.

Shape neck:
Next row: knit 30/32/34. Turn, and leave remaining stitches on a spare
needle, and work each side of the neck separately.
Next row: cast off 2, purl to end.
Next row:knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Now decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until 18/20/22 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 21 /21 /21½ inches, ending with a purl row.
Shape shoulder by casting oft 6/6/8 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 6/7/7 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows.
With right side facing, slip centre 16/18/20 stitches on a stitch-holder, and rejoin wool to the remaining 30/32/34 stitches, knit to end.
Next row: purl.
Next row: cast off 2, knit to end.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Finish to correspond with first side.

Sleeves

With No 8 needles and blue yarn B, cast on 46/46/48 stitches, and work 8 rows in garter-stitch, (every row knit). Break off B.
Join in gold yarn G, and work a further 8 rows in garter-stitch. Break off G.
Join in W, Change to No 7 needles and stocking-stitch, starting with a knit row, and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 6th row until there are 76/76/80 stitches.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 18½/18½/19 inches.
Editors note: eagle-eyed among you may notice that you knit 18-19 inches here when the size quotes the sleeve seam as 2 inches shorter; this is because 2 inches of the length of the sleeve is sewn to the side panels - which will be clearer when you are making up and finishing.

Cast off loosely using a larger needle.

Borders

Front Neck: With right side facing, using yarn G, and No 8 needles, pick up and knit 30/30/30 stitches round left side of neck, knit 16/18/20 from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 30/30/30 stitches round right side. {76/78/80 sts}

Next row: knit.
Next row: (k17, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Next row: k9, k2tog, (k24, k2tog) twice; knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Next row: (k16, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Break off G.
Join in B. and knit 2 rows.
Next row: (k15, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row:
knit.
Next row: k9, k2tog, (k20, k2tog) twice; knit to end.
Next row: knit.
Next row: (k13, k2tog) 3 times, knit to end.
Next row: knit. {58/60/62 sts}
Cast off evenly knitwise.

Back Neck: Work as for front neck

Lower Edge: With right side facing, No 8 needles and G, pick up and knit 76/82/88 stitches along lower edge of front.

Work 7 rows garter-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row.
Break G.

Join in B, and work 8 rows garter-stitch, increasing stitch at each end of every alternate row.
Cast off evenly knitwise.
Work the lower edge for the back in the same way.

Side edges:
Editors note: You are making a side panel here, knit sideways from the back and front pieces, so you need to do this 4 times - once each side of the two pieces. Refer to the photo which makes it clearer..
Measure 8/8/ ins. down from shoulders for armholes and place a marker at each side edge on back and front.
With right side facing, No 8 needles and G pick up and knit 66/66/66 stitches along white panel on each side edge, ie between markers and start of border at lower edge.
Knit 7 rows G, increasing 1 stitch at the lower edge on the next and every alternate row. Break G.
Join in B, and knit 8 rows increasing 1 stitch at the lower edge on every alternate row.
Cast off evenly knitwise.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join mitred borders at each corner of lower edge with a flat seam, using a fine backstitch seam.
Join side seams leaving 5 inches open at lower edge for side slits.
Join shoulder seams, matching borders.
Join sleeve seams to within 2 inches of cast-off edge.
Pin the 2 inches of open seam along side borders on back and front, then pin cast-off edge all round armhole; sew in position.
Press all seams.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn: 13/11/15 1oz balls in White and 3 1oz balls in each of Gold and Light Navy Blue.

A pair each of Nos 7 (4½mm) and 8 (4mm) needles.

Tension

20 sts x 25 rows to 4 ins on No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest
34-35/36-37/38-39 inches, worn loosely as an overblouse.
Length from top of shoulders: 23/23/23½ inches.
Sleeve seam: 16/16/16½ inches

Abbreviations

stocking stitch: one row knit, one row purl.

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was Patons Flair - one of those "tripleknit" yarns which never caught on in the UK. More or less Aran or American worsted weight . As usual no clues as to the yardage, but it was 60% wool, 40% courtelle (acrylic).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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