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Archive entry for May 2014

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May 2014

Pin-striped jumper

PinStripedJumper.jpg

"Cherry and white pin-stripes are used both up and down and across here. Wear this woolly as above, jumper fashion, or over a blouse."

I much admired this jumper some time ago but never got round to making it myself. However, here it is if you want to try it out. I think it would look nice in red and white as intended or with beige like This Attractive Affair **, knitted in Rowan's Cotton Glacé - but do read all the information about substituting the yarn before you decide how best to tackle this pattern!
In 2008 I made the Engaging Bouclé Top (also from the same 1935 feature). It worked out very well and I wear it quite often even now.

** This Attractive Affair is a 1930s pattern from A Stitch In Time Volume 2 by Susan Crawford and Jane Waller. You can purchase it at Susan's website or from Amazon.

Instructions.

The top and the lower part of the jumper are worked separately, and the ribbed welt added last of all. The pattern is twisted garter stitch, 2 rows red and 2 rows white, alternately.

For twisted garter stitch: knit every row plain, but work always into the backs of the stitches.

Back

Start with lower section, worked sideways.

With red wool and No 10 needles cast on 10 stitches. Work as follows in the twisted garter stitch pattern explained above:

1st row: red.
2nd row: red, cast on 10, work to end. [20 sts]
3rd row: Change to white (do not break red wool) work to end.
4th row: white, cast on 10, work to end. [30 sts]
5th row: red.
6th row: red, cast on 10, work to end. [40 sts]
7th row: white.
8th row: white, cast on 10, work to end. [50 sts]
9th row: red.
10th row: red, cast on 14, work to end. [64 sts]

[Editor's note: This gradual addition of stitches makes waist shaping.]

Now continue in pattern on the 64 stitches on the needle till you have worked 41 red stripes at the casting-on end (the casting on at the beginning of 10th row will be the first of these stripes).

At the beginning of the second row of next red stripe, cast off 14, work to end. [50 sts]
Next row: white.
Next row: white, cast off 10, work to end. [40 sts]
Next row: red.
Next row: red. cast off 10, work to end. [30 sts]
Next row: white.
Next row: white, cast off 10, work to end. [20 sts]
Next row: red.
Next row: red. cast off 10, work to end. [10 sts]

Cast off remaining 10 stitches in red.

Next work Back Yoke. Hold right side of work towards you.
Using red wool and No 10 needles, knit up evenly 114 stitches along the top (wider) edge of lower back, starting at the 7th stripe, and finishing at the 7th stripe from the opposite end.
Working the first row in red, continue in pattern as before, working two rows white, then two rows red, knitting 2 together at each end of the first 8 rows, to shape the armholes.

Continue in pattern on the 98 stitches that remain till 55 red stripes have been completed.

Next row: white.
Next row: white, k32, cast off 3, k32.

Continue in pattern on on the latter 32 stitches for first shoulder.
Then with right side facing, cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and every alternate row (that is: at the armhole edge) 3 times; cast off 8.

Join in red wool to the remaining 32 stitches at the neck-edge and work the other shoulder to correspond, beginning the casting off with the wrong side of the work facing.

Left front

As you did on the back, start with the lower section, which is worked sideways.

With red wool and No 10 needles cast on 64 stitches (centre front edge). Work 2 rows red, 2 rows white, until you have completed the 23rd red stripe.
Cast off 14 at the waist end, work to end and back; cast off 10 at the beginning of the next and every alternate row 4 times; cast off 10.

[Editor's note: This gradual reduction of stitches makes waist shaping.]

For the yoke: with right side of work facing and using red wool and No 10 needles, knit up evenly 64 stitches along the top (wider) edge, starting at the 7th stripe.
Work back one row in red, then continuing the stripe sequence, two white, two red as before, k2tog at armhole edge in first 8 rows, then keep both edges straight till 4th white stripe from where stitches were knitted up has been completed.
K2tog at the neck edge in the next and every alternate row till 32 stitches remain.
Cast off 8 stitches from armhole edge 3 times, cast off 8.

Right front

Cast on and work lower section as for left front, but start the casting off at the beginning of the 2nd row in the 23rd red stripe, this bringing the shaping to opposite end of needle.

For the yoke: with the right side of work facing and using No 10 needles and red wool, knit up 64 stitches, finishing at the 7th stripe from under-arm edge. Work the yoke to correspond with left yoke, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 10 needles and red wool, cast on 90 stitches.
Work in the pattern, straight, to the end of the 14th white stripe, then shape top by decreasing at each end of every row till 30 stitches remain; cast off.

White borders

For back waist ribbing:
Using No 13 needles and white wool, with right side facing, knit up 124 stitches across lower edge, and work 3½ inches in k1, p1 rib; cast off.

For each of the front waist ribbing:
Knit up 70 stitches across lower edge and rib to match the back.

For each cuff:
Using white wool and No 10 needles, cast on 16 stitches and work in twisted garter-stitch, all in white, until the cuff fits the edge of the sleeve.

The ribbed front border is worked all in one.
Using white wool and No 13 needles, cast on 18 stitches.
Work 8 rows in k1, p1 rib.

In the 9th row, start a buttonhole by working 6, casting off 6, working 6; in the next row finish it by casting on 6 to replace those cast off.

* Rib 16 rows, then make another buttonhole.
Repeat from * 6 times (8 buttonholes in all), then work straight until the border will reach round the neck and to the lower edge.

Making Up

Join side seams and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Join each cuff into a ring, stitch round edge of sleeve and turn back.
Sew border neatly all round, overlapping edge of coat by about one stitch.
Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

Materials

Beehive Scotch Fingering 2 ply: 2 ozs in red, 3 ozs in white.

One pair each
No 13 (2¼mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

8 small square red buttons.

Tension

30sts to 4 ins.

Size matters

The pattern is given in only one size:
chest 33 inches; length from top of shoulder: 18 inches; sleeve seam: 5 inches.

A Word on the Wool

References on the web give Patons Beehive 2 ply Scotch Fingering a tension of 9 sts to the inch on 2mm needles and a yardage of 230 without a stated ball weight. This would equate more to a 3 ply weight yarn - but Patons did make this yarn in 2, 3 and 4 ply weights, so it is hard to make a judgement.

No clues much from the pattern either since the needle size used is larger than normal for this yarn and the stitches are twisted, making it tighter, and to cap it all - it's knitted sideways. The tension is stated without reference as to whether this is over stocking stitch or over the pattern.

I would substitute with a 3 or 4 ply - or even a fine double knit if I wanted to increase the size - but do your calculations and swatching carefully if you want to do this, and vary your needle size. Moving to a fine DK or 5 ply weight at 6 sts per inch could instantly move from 37 inch chest to as much as 43 inches.

I would also count at least one 50g ball for every ounce stated (speaking from past experience in yarn substitution).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

PinStripedJumper2.jpg

© Christina Coutts 2007

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