Pattern of the Month

Instructions.

Instructions for 2 sizes, larger size in brackets. If there is only one set of figures, it applies to both sizes.

Three separate panel pattern stitches are described below, and the overall instructions tell you about the shape and construction, and how you combine the panels together to make up the back, front, and sleeves.

Pattern 1: basic half fisherman's rib

[Editor's note: Whether or not you are familiar with fisherman's rib or brioche, it should be quite easy to pick up this half fisherman's rib from the instructions below.
However, you always have to be careful when increasing and decreasing, in that the stitch and the yarn-over that you purl together on the right side rows, always count as only one stitch.]

Worked over an odd number of stitches, using No 7 (4½mm) needles.

1st Row (right side): k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd Row (wrong side): * slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn over needle, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn over
needle.
3rd Row (right side): knit the first stitch together with the yarn over needle; * p1, knit next stitch together with yarn over needle, repeat from * to end.

Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows to form the pattern.

Patter 2: basic cable pattern

Worked over 9 stitches, using No 7 (4½mm) needles.

1st Row (right side): p2, k5, p2,
2nd Row: k2, p5, k2.
3rd Row: p2; cross 5 stitches to the right by slipping 3 stitches on to the cable needle and leaving at the back of the work, k2, then k3 stitches from cable needle - or alternatively cross 5 stitches to the
left by slipping 2 stitches on to the cable needle and leaving at the front of the work, k3, then k2 stitches from cable needle; p2.
[Editor's Note: The cables cross the the right on one side of the sweater and to the left on the other.]
4th Row: as 2nd row.
5th Row: as 1st row.
6th Row: as 2nd row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Pattern 3: cables with half fisherman's rib pattern

Worked over 27 stitches, using No 7 (4½mm) needles.
Stagger the pattern at the right side to the right, and at left side to the
left, (mirror images).

Rows 1-12: 9 stitches as per the cable pattern , 9 stitches in half fisherman's rib, 9 stitches as per the the cable.
Rows 13-16 (right half): 18 stitches in half fisherman's rib, then 9 stitches for the cable - or -
Rows 13-16 (left half): 9 stitches for the cable, then and 18 stitches in half fisherman's rib.
Rows 17-51: stagger the cable pattern on every alternate row by 1 stitch to the right or to the left as follows:

To the right: Purl the first purl stitch of the cable together with preceding stitch of the half fisherman's rib, and after the 5 knit stitches of the cable, increase 1 stitch purlwise, inserting the right-hand needle into the loop at the front of next stitch, p1, then work the last purl stitch of the cable in half fisherman's rib (starting with 1 purl stitch of the half fisherman's rib).
To the left: work the first purl stitch of the cable as a half fisherman's rib stitch, (starting with 1 purl stitch of the half fisherman's rib), p1, increase 1 stitch purlwise, by inserting right-hand needle into the loop at the front of the next stitch. Purl the last stitch of the cable together with next stitch of the half fisherman's rib.

Rows 53 and 54 (right half): work 9 stitches for the cable, then 18 stitches in half fisherman's rib - or -
Rows 53 and 54 (left half): work 18 stitches in half fisherman's rib, then 9 stitches for the cable.

These 54 rows form pattern.

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 100 (108) stitches and work 3¼ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 21 stitches evenly across the last row. [121 (129) sts]

Change to No 7 (4½ mm) needles and continue as follows for the foundation row:
Foundation row: K1 edge stitch, work 7 (11) stitches in half fisherman's rib (pattern 1); work 9 stitches for the cable (pattern 2), work 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; work 27 stitches in pattern 3; then 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; work 9 stitches for the cable, then 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib (these 3 are the centre stitches) -
[Editor's Note: Now work the other half as a mirror image as below:]
- work 9 stitches for the cable; 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; 27 stitches in pattern 3; 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; 9 stitches for the cable, and finally 7 (11) stitches in half fisherman's rib (pattern 1); k1 edge stitch.

Cross straight cables and diagonal cables (pattern 3) on the right side to the right and on the left side to the left.
When work measures 15 inches, shape armholes: cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
[109 (117) sts]

Keeping in line with the patterns, continue straight until work measures 26 inches, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape neck:
Next row: work 40 (44) stitches in pattern.
Turn, and leaving the remaining stitches on a holder.
Complete this side first.

At the neck edge cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 alternate rows.
At the same time, shape shoulder: by casting off 12 (13) stitches at the armhole edge on every alternate row twice, then 12 (14) stitches once.

With right side of work facing, slip first 29 stitches on to holder for centre back neck, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and work pattern to end.
Complete to match the first side, reversing shaping.

Front:

Proceed as for back until work measures 24 inches ending with the right side facing for the next row.

Shape neck:
Next row: work 45 (49) stitches in pattern.
Turn, and leaving the remaining stitches on a holder.
Complete this side first.

At the neck edge on every alternate row, cast off 3 stitches once, 2 stitches once, and 1 stitch 4 times.

When work measures 26 inches, shape shoulder, by casting off 12 (13) stitches at the armhole edge on every alternate row twice, then 12 (14) stitches once.

With right side of work facing, slip first 19 stitches on to a holder for the centre front neck.
Rejoin yarn to the remaining stitches and work in pattern to end.

Complete to match first side, reversing shaping.

Sleeves (both alike):

Cast on 45 stitches.
Work work 3¼ inches in k1/p1 rib, increasing 20 stitches evenly across the last row. [65 sts]

Continue in basic patterns as follows:

Foundation row: K1 edge stitch, work 9 stitches in half fisherman's rib (pattern 1); work 9 stitches for the cable (pattern 3 - stagger this cable to the right), work 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; work 9 stitches for the cable (pattern 2), then 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib (these 3 are the centre stitches) -
[Editor's Note: Now work the other half as a mirror image as below:]
- work 9 stitches for the cable; 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib; 9 stitches (pattern 3 - stagger this cable to the left); 9 stitches in half fisherman's rib (pattern 1); k1 edge stitch.

Stagger cables at right side to the right, at left side to the left.

At the same time, increase 1 stitch at each of every 5th row 18 times, then 1 stitch on every 4th row 6 times [113 sts]

At first, increase the pattern 3 section to the sides, then work 3 stitches in half fisherman's rib, 9 stitches for the cable, then remaining stitches in half fisherman's rib.
[Editor's Note: This is to give you sufficient stitches to continue to stagger the cables.]
When work measures 21 inches shape top, by casting off 4 stitches at each end of every alternate row 4 times.
Cast off remaining stitches

To make up:

Join all seams and sew sleeves in position.
Using the circular needle, pick up and knit about 100 stitches around the neck, and work 5 inches in rib pattern.
Fold band in half to the wrong side and sew in position.

Materials

Aran or worsted weight yarn:

8 (9) x 50g balls at 100m per ball
[Editor's Note: This is a fairly long yardage for this yarn weight.]

One pair each of Nos 11 (3mm) and 7 (4½mm) needles.
One 3mm x 40cm circular needle.

Tension

19sts x 24 rows to 4 inches in stocking stitch using No 7 (4½mm) needles.

20sts x 26 rows worked over pattern stitches on No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

40-42 / 44-46 inches
[Actual size about
47 / 50 inches]

Abbreviations:

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 stitches together
p2tog: decrease by purling 2 stitches together

A Word on the Wool.

Original yarn was a thickish but lofty tweed Aran weight yarn: 50% wool mix with acrylic and 15% flax. Approximately 100m to 50g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

These are simple fairly flat toys in the shape of a big and little cat.
The concept is that you knit the cat in a block shape, then use their diagram to make a pattern and to sew it into the cat shape, (head, legs etc) - then turn inside out and stuff. However, I cannot see how this would work unless you cut the knitting prior to turning inside out. So I have provided charts with a few rudimentary instructions so you can create a shaped toy, which should be easier to sew together.
I think you need to keep the toy fairly flat when you stuff it, as the neck will be a point of weakness - I think, regardless, it will tend to flop.

Notes on the yarn:
Knitting two strands of DK together (for the cats) would normally produce a more chunky weight combined yarn; however they have used fairly small needles which should give a firmer texture - this is desirable for a stuffed toy - more like an Aran or worsted weight tension. You could use a single strand of chunky yarn, provided you can achieve the right tension on 3¾mm needles.
They have used one strand of mohair yarn to give a fluffy texture - take care if you consider substituting the two strands with a single strand of chunky mohair yarn, as typically these yarns are designed to be knitted loosely, and would probably be hard to knit on smaller needles as well as maybe not producing a satisfactory result. [A fluffy synthetic might work.]

Notes on the size:
Normally for a toy, the tension is less important - you just need to be consistent. However in this case, Kitty has some clothes which are knitted in 4ply fingering yarn, so you need to be sure they will fit him if you choose to vary the yarn/tension for the cat.

Big Cat Body (2 pieces)

[Editor's note: If you are working from my charts - given at the end - they replace these instructions for the body.]

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using one strand of the white fluffy yarn and one strand of double knitting both together, cast on 34 stitches. Work in stocking stitch for 5 inches, then shape the arms, by casting on 10 stitches at each end of the next 2 rows.

Continue in stocking stitch on 54 stitches until work measures 16½ inches.
Cast off.

Make a second piece in the same way.

Big Cat Ears (make 2)

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using one strand of the white fluffy yarn and one strand of double knitting both together, cast on 16 stitches and work 4¾ inches in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Make second ear the same way.

Big Cat Trousers (make 2)

Using 3¼mm (No 10) needles, and using the yellow 4ply, cast on 21 stitches and purl one row on the right side of the work, then work in stocking stitch (starting with a purl row on the wrong side).

When work measures ½ an inch, increase 1 stitch at one edge.

When work measure ¾ an inch, ending with right side facing, place the stitches on a holder and break yarn.

Make an identical piece as a mirror image, working the increased stitch on the opposite side of the work. Put both pieces on the same needle, and knit across, increasing 2 stitches between the two pieces. [46 sts]

Continue in stocking stitch, and when work measures 3 inches, with right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Next row: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 stitches, k2togtbl k2.
Next row: k2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Repeat these last two rows 3 times more, keeping the 2 stitches at each edge in garter stitch. [32 sts]

Continue in stocking stitch with the garter stitch borders until work measures 5 inches.
Next row: k11, p10 stitches, k11.
Next row: p11, k10 stitches, p11.
Next row: k11, cast off 10 stitches, k11.

Work the two straps separately, working decreases at the neck edge:
Next row (right strap wrong side facing on 11 stitches): k2, p5, p2tog, k2
Next row: k2, k2tog, k4, k2.
Next row: k2, p5, k2
Next row: k2, k2tog, k4, k2.
Next row: k2, p4, k2
Next row: k2, k2tog, k3, k2.
Next row: k2, p3, k2
Next row: k2, k2tog, k3, k2.
Next row: k2, p2, k2

When work measures about 6½ inches, cast off.
Work the other strap to match, reversing shaping.

Make a second identical piece.

Big Cat Tail (make 1)

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using one strand of the white fluffy yarn and one strand of double knitting both together, cast on 4 stitches and knit 2 rows. Continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Work 2 rows straight, then decrease 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.
Thread yarn around the outside of the tail.

Big Cat Bow (make 1)

Using 3¼mm (No 10) needles, and using the yellow 4ply, cast on 12 stitches and work in stocking stitch.

When work measures 2½ inches, purl 1 row on the right side of the work; continue in stocking stitch, and when work measures 7 inches, purl another row on the right side of the work.
When work measures 9½ inches, cast off.

Rucksack

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using 2 strands of the red 4ply together, cast on 28 stitches and purl 1 row on the right side of the work. Then work in stocking stitch, but keep 2 stitches at each side in garter stitch to make a border.

When work measures 8½ inches, purl 1 row on the right side of the work, and cast off.

Materials

3 x 50g balls white mohair or fluffy double knitting equivalent.
[Approximately 120m per ball]

2 x 50g balls white smooth double knitting [approx. 125m per ball]
and small amounts of black and blue (for nose and eyes).

4ply (for the clothes) 1 x ball red and 1 ball yellow. [Approximately 183m per ball]
[Editor's note: The yellow yarn is to make the trousers for both cats and the red is knitted double for the back pack; I think I can say with confidence that you won't need as much as a 50g ball in order to make them.The back pack could probably be made with almost an oddment of single stranded Aran/worsted yarn.]

3¼mm (No 10) and 3¾mm (No 9) needles.
[US sizes 4 and 5]

2 red buttons

Stuffing.

Tension

For the DK:
22 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch using a single thread on 3½mm needles.

For the 4ply :
27 sts x 35 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch using a single thread on 3mm needles.

For the two strands of DK knitted together (the cats): 18 sts x 24 rows knitted on 3¾mm needles - estimated from the instructions.

Size matters

Large cat designed to measure:
16 inches

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).

k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops (also known as "slip, slip, knit").

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

garter stitch: all rows knitted.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Kitten Body (2 pieces)

[Editor's note: If you are working from my charts - given at the end - they replace these instructions for the body.]

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using one strand of the white fluffy yarn and one strand of double knitting both together, cast on 16 stitches. Work in stocking stitch for 2 inches, then shape the arms, by casting on 5 stitches at each end of the next 2 rows.

Continue in stocking stitch on 26 stitches until work measures 6 inches.
Cast off.

Make a second piece in the same way.

Kitten Ears (make 2)

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using one strand of the white fluffy yarn and one strand of double knitting both together, cast on 8 stitches and work 2½ inches in stocking stitch.
Cast off.

Make second ear the same way.

Kitten Trousers (make 2)

Using 3¼mm (No 10) needles, and using the yellow 4ply, cast on 11 stitches and purl one row on the right side of the work, then work in stocking stitch (starting with a purl row on the wrong side).

When work measures ½ an inch, place the stitches on a holder.

Make an identical piece, and put both pieces on the same needle, increasing 2 stitches between the two pieces. [24 sts]

When work measures 2 inches, with right side facing, shape armholes, by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Then work 2 stitches at each edge in garter stitch, and decrease 1 stitch every alternate row inside garter stitch border 2 times.

When work measures 4¾ inches, purl 2 rows on the centre 6 stitches. Cast off the centre 6 stitches for the neck, and work the two side of the work separately.
Keeping the 2 stitches at each neck edge in garter stitch.
At each neck edge of every other row, decrease 1 stitch between border and stocking stitch once, 1 stitch 3 times.
When work measures 3 inches, cast off.

Make a second identical piece.

Kitten Tail (make 1)

Using 3¾mm (No 9) needles, and using one strand of the white fluffy yarn and one strand of double knitting both together, cast on 2 stitches and work in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each edge on every alternate row twice.
Work 2 rows straight, then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 4 rows, then 1 stitch at each edge on every alternate row twice.
Cast off remaining stitches.
Thread yarn around the outside of the tail.

To Make Up

For each cat:
Make a pattern following the measurements on the diagrams.
[Editor's note: If you have created a shaped cat following my charts, then this step should not be necessary.]
Place pieces right sides together.
Sew around outline of body, leaving an opening to turn inside out.
Turn right side out and stuff.
Sew opening closed.

Work the same for the ears, without stuffing, and sew in place.

Fold the bow at purl rows, and roughly catch together cast on and cast off edges, so you have a rectangle 7 inches wide. Gather in the middle by winding and securing a length of yarn around (see picture).

Gather the yarn at outside edges of tail, stuff, and sew seams.
[Editor's note: The tails seem to be little round balls rather than normal cat tails - see picture.]
Attach the tails to the bodies.
[Editor's note: I think you need to attach the tails on top of the trousers (making them not removable), unless you already thought ahead and created a hole in the back of the trousers for them to poke through.]

The eyes, whiskers and nose are embroidered as shown in the picture.

Sew seams of trousers, sewing in ends, and put on the cats.
Sew 2 buttons on the straps of trousers of big cat.

Fold the rucksack in half and sew seams at the sides.
Make 2 cords in red and sew to the corners of the rucksack.

Place bow on front of big cat's ear.
Sew a little white cord on top of each head (optional).
Slip kitten in rucksack. Sew in place to back of big cat for security.

Additional Charts for cat bodies and rudimentary instructions

To make one side of the bodies begin by casting on the number of stitches shown for one leg (14 for Cat; 6 for kitten) and increase one stitch at each end of the first row. Work the number of rows shown in stocking stitch (12 for Cat; 4 for kitten). Make a second leg.
Place both pieces of work on one needle, and work across all stitches, casting on 2 stitches between the legs.
Then work the number of rows and stitches shown on the charts, increasing and decreasing as required. Where you need to cast on stitches you need to do that across 2 rows (which I haven't shown); where you need to increase 2 stitches at each end of a row, you can do that by knitting three times into the first and last stitches, or by casting on 2 stitches at the beginning of every row until you have the right number of stitches - but make sure you work the right number of rows overall as shown on the charts.

Instructions

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

Back

Using 3 mm needles and white yarn, cast on 99 (105, 111) stitches and work in rib:
1st row (right side): p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 8½ (8¾, 9) inches [21 (22, 23) cm] from beginning, ending with a row 1 of rib pattern.

Next row (increase): Rib 4 (8, 10); [increase in the next stitch, rib 8 (10, 14)] 10 (8, 6) times; increase in the next stitch, rib 4 (8, 10).
[1110 (114, 118) sts]

Change to 4½ mm needles and blue colour yarn.
Working in stocking stitch (1 row plain, one row purl), beginning with a knit row, work 26 (28, 30) rows in blue, then work the striped pattern of * 26 rows white, 26 rows blue *.
Repeat from to * to * once, then work another 26 rows in white.
Now continue in blue until work measures 35 (36, 36½) inches, [89 (91, 93) cm ] from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Neck and Shoulders by casting off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
5th row: Cast off 8, knit until there are 11 (12, 13) stitches on the right needle, and leave these for the right back; cast off the next 40 (42, 44) stitches, knit to end.
Continue on these last 19 (20, 21) stitches which now remain at the end of the needle for left back.
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next row and 3 stitches at neck edge on the following row.
Cast off the remaining 8 (9, 10) stitches to complete shoulder slope.

Rejoin the blue yarn to the neck edge of the right back stitches, and cast off 3; purl to end.
Cast off the remaining 8 (9, 10) stitches.

Front

Work as for back until 12 rows fewer have been worked than on back to beginning of shoulder shaping, thus ending with a purl row.

Next row: knit 46 (47, 48) and leave these stitches on a spare needle for the left front. Cast off the next 18 (20, 22) stitches, knit to end.

Continue working the right front on the 46 (47, 48) stitches now remaining on the needle and work 1 row.
** Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row; 2 stitches at the same edge on the next 4 alternate rows; and 1 stitch on next alternate
row.

Continue to decrease at the neck edge on next 2 alternate rows, but,
at the same time, cast off for the shoulder 8 stitches at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row then cast off the remaining 8 (9, 10) stitches.

Rejoin yarn to the neck edge of the left front stitches, and complete as for right front from to ** to end.

Sleeves

Using 4½ mm needles and white cast on 68 (72, 76) stitches, and begin working in stocking stitch (no rib welt).
Work 26 (28, 30) rows in white, and then 26 (28, 30) rows in blue.

Change to white and increase 1 stitch at each end of every following 3rd row, 25 times, at same time continuing in the striped sequence of 26 rows white, 26 rows blue, and 26 rows white.
Cast off these 118 (122, 126) rows stitches.

Making up and neck border

Join the right shoulder seam.

Neck border:
With right side of work facing and using 3 mm needles and blue yarn, pick up and knit 60 (62, 64) stitches around front neck edge and 49
(51, 53) stitches across the back neck. [109 (113, 117) sts]
Beginning with a 2nd row, work in rib for 5 rows, then cast off loosely in rib.

Join the left shoulder seam and ends of neck border.
Pin cast-off edge of sleeves to sides of sweater placing the centre of the sleeve level with the shoulder seam and ensuring that the sides of the sleeves reach to the same position of the pattern at each side.
Sew in place and then join side and sleeve seams, matching stripes. Fold up the first stripe on the sleeve to the wrong side forming a deep hem and slip-stitch in place.

[Editor's note: You can see in the photo that the sleeve is worn rolled up to the right side, forming a cuff.]

Materials

DK equivalent cotton yarn, 50g balls:
9 (10, 11) in white
6 (7, 8) in navy blue

One pair each of No 11 (3mm) and No 7 (4½mm ) needles.

Tension

21 sts x 26 rows to 4 inches on 4½mm needles

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 (34, 36) inches;
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Abbreviations:

k: knit
p: purl
increase: knit twice into next stitch.
decrease: knit two stitches together.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a 100% cotton with a tension on the ball band indicating a light weight double knitting yarn. For this pattern it's more loosely knitted on 4½mm needles, giving more of an aran or worsted weight tension.
The quoted yardage was 100 meters, (110 yds), per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Three sizes - instructions for larger sizes given in brackets. Where one set of figures is given, this applies to all sizes.

Lace Pattern

1st row: (p1, kb2) twice, p1, * k1, wf, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, wrn, p1, wb, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, (wf, k1) twice , k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, (p1, kb2) 5 times, p1; repeat from * to *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, (p1, kb2) twice, p1.
2nd row: (k1, pb2) twice, k1, * p5, k1,p1,k1,p3,k1, p4 *, p20; repeat from * to *,(k1, pb2) 5 times, k1; repeat from * to *, p20; repeat from * to *, (k1, pb2) twice, k1.
3rd row: Rib 7 as before, k1, wf, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, wb, slip1, k2tog, psso, wf, k3, wf, k1 *, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16 as before; repeat from * to *, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7 as before.
4th row:: Rib 7, p7, k1, p2, k1, p4 *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
5th row: Rib 7, * (k1, wf) twice, slip1, k1, psso, p1, (k2tog) twice, wf, k5, wf, k1 *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
6th row: Rib 7, * p8, k1, p1, k1, p5 *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
7th row: Rib 7, * k1, wf, k3, wf, slip1, k2tog, psso, p1, won, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, wf, k1 *, k1, (wf. k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
8th row: Rib 7 *, p4, k1, p. 3, k1, p7 *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
9th row: Rib 7, * k1, wf, k5, wf, slip1, k1, psso, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, wf, k1 *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
10th row: Rib 7, * p4, k1, p2, k1, p8 *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, p20; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
11th row: Rib 7, * k1, wf, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, wrn, p1, wb, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, (wf, k1) twice *, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from to , k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
12th row: As 2nd row.
13th row: Rib 7, * k1, wf, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, wb, slip1, k2tog, psso, wf, k3, wf, k1 *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog. wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
14th row: As 4th row.
15th row: Rib 7, (k1, wf) twice, slip1, k1, psso, p1, (k2tog) twice, wf, k5, wf, k1 *, k1. (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
16th row: As 6th row.
17th row: Rib 7, * k1, wf, k3, wf, slip1, k2tog, psso, p1, won, k1, slip1 k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, wf, k1 *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (k3, wf, k3tog, wf) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
18th row: As 8th row.
19th row: Rib 7, *k1, wf, k5, wf, slip1, k1, psso, k1, slip1, k1, psso, p1, k2tog, k1, wf, k1*, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 16; repeat from * to *, k1, (wf, k3tog, wf, k3) 3 times, k1; repeat from * to *, rib 7.
20th row: As 10th row.

These 20 rows form the pattern.

Front and Back in One

With No 14 (2mm) needles cast on 141 (145, 149) stitches using two needle method but do not knit into the backs of the stitches.
Work l¼ inches k1/p1 rib, then change to stocking stitch and continue straight until work measures 2½ inches from the start, ending with a purl row.
Next row: Make hem by knitting 1 stitch from needle, together with 1 loop from the cast-on edge all across.

Change to No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
Next row: p4 (6, 8), (k1, p2) twice, k1, p52, (k1, p2) 5 times, k1, p52, (k1, p2) twice, k1, purl twice in next stitch, p2 (4, 6). [142 (146, 150) sts]

With right side facing, change to lace pattern and keeping a panel of stocking-stitch at each end work as follows:

1st row: k4 (6, 8),work as on 1st row of lace pattern, k4 (6, 8).
2nd row: p4 (6, 8), work as 2nd row of lace pattern, p4 (6, 8).
3rd row: k4 (6, 8), work as 3rd row of lace pattern, k4 (6, 8).
4th row: p4 (6, 8). work as 4th row of lace pattern, p4 [6] “8”.

Continue thus repeating the 20 rows of the lace pattern throughout and shaping the sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following 10th (8th, 6th) row, 6 (8, 10) times in all, taking the increased stitches into the stocking stitch panels as they are made.
[154 (162, 170) sts]

Continue straight in pattern until 5 complete patterns and up to the 8th row of the 6th pattern has been done from the start.
Then continue in pattern casting on 17 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the sleeves, thus finishing at the end of the 10th pattern row. [188 (196, 204) sts]

Here introduce a leaf pattern up each sleeve edge as follows:

Next row: k1; repeat from * to * as 11th row of lace pattern; p1, k9 (13, 17); then work in pattern to the last 27 (31, 35) stitches, k9 (13, 17), p1; repeat from * to * as 11th row of lace pattern, k1.
Next row: k1; repeat from * to * as 12th row of lace pattern, p1, p9 (13, 17); then work in pattern to the last 27 (31, 35) stitches, p9 (13, 17), p1; repeat from * to * as 12th row of lace pattern, k1.

Continue in pattern thus until sleeve edge measures 5 inches from cast-on stitches.

Next row: Pattern 81 (85, 89), cast off 26, pattern to end.
Continue in pattern on last 81 (85, 89) stitches, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 73 (77, 81) stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight in pattern until sleeve edge measures 6½ inches.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder as follows:
Next row: Pattern 33 (35, 37) stitches, cast off 13 (14, 14) stitches, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 27 (28, 30) stitches.
Next row: Cast off 13 (14, 15) stitches, pattern to end.
Next row: Pattern 14 (14, 15).
Cast off. Break yarn.

Right Shoulder and Back Neck: with right side facing, rejoin wool to remaining 33 (35, 37) shoulder stitches, cast on 61 (63, 65) stitches for shoulder and back of neck.
Continue as follows on these 94 (98, 102) stitches for the back, keeping continuity of the lace pattern in the sleeve (the back is in plain stocking-stitch... [Editor's note: ...you will be relieved to hear] ...).

Next row (right side facing): knit to the last 18 stitches, p1, pattern 16, k1.
Next row: k1, pattern 16, p1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continue thus until work measures 4 inches from cast-on stitches for back of neck, (this forms the back opening), ending with right side facing. Break yarn.

Left Shoulder and Back Neck: with wrong side facing, rejoin wool to remaining 81 (85, 89) stitches for left shoulder, pattern to end.

Work to correspond with right half ending at end of back opening with a row on the right side.
Here join stitches for back together.
Cast on 1, work across 94 (98, 102) stitches of right side of back.
[189 (197, 205) sts]

Continue straight in stocking-stitch over all stitches with leaf pattern at each end until sleeve edges on back measure same as front.

With right side facing, cast off 17 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then work 54 (48, 50) rows straight in stocking stitch over all stitches.
Now shape the sides by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th (8th, 6th) row, 6 (8, 10) times in all.

Work 5 (5, 5) rows straight, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the last row. [141 (145, 149) sts].

With right side facing, change to No 14 needles and work a further 1¼ inches straight in stocking-stitch, then work 1¼ inches straight in k1/p1 rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Collar and Sleeve Edging

Join shoulder seams.

Collar: With right side facing and No 14 needles, starting 3 stitches away from centre stitch on front, pick up and knit 79 (79, 79) stitches round right half of neck to within 3 stitches of the back opening.

1st row: k1, * kb2, p1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches; kb2, k1.
2nd row: k1, * pb2, k1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: Increase in 1st stitch, * kb2, p1; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, kb1, increase in next stitch, k1.

Keeping a knit stitch a each end of every row, continue in twisted rib, increasing thus at each end of every alternate row until there are 93 (93, 93) stitches.
Rib 1 row. Break yarn.

Starting at back opening, with right side of collar facing, pick up and knit 13 stitches along shaped edge, knit across stitches on needle, then pick up and knit 13 stitches along other side of collar. [119 (119, 119) sts]
Work 3 rows stocking stitch over all stitches, starting with a purl row; then work 3 rows k1/p1 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Work the other half of the collar to correspond.

Sleeves: with No 14 needles and right side facing, pick up and knit 126 (126, 126) stitches along the edge of the sleeve.
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row, then work 3 rows k1/p1 rib. Cast off in rib.

Making Up

Press work very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth taking care not to spoil the lace pattern.
Fold under the 3 rows of rib round the collar and sleeves to wrong side and slip-hem.
Join side and underarm seams.
Fold under ribbing across lower edge of back and slip-hem in position, leaving sides of hem open for elastic. Thread elastic through hem, join ends neatly and sew up opening.

Sew zip in position down back opening.

Decorate front of jumper down centre of rib panel with pearl buttons in groups of three as in photograph.

Press seams.

Materials

4 (5, 5) oz 2ply
(in pale pink)

One pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 14 (2 mm ) needles.

4 inch zip fastener.
15 pearl buttons.
Elastic for waist.

Tension

36 stitches x 44 rows to 4 inches on 2¾mm needles

Size matters

To fit chest:
33-34 (35-36, 37-38) inches.
Length from top of shoulders 17 inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
kb/pb: knit/purl into back of stitch
k2/3tog: knit 2/3 stitches together to decrease one/two stitches.
wb: yarn to back.
won: yarn over needle.
wrn: yarn round needle.
wf: yarn to front.
slip1: slip the next stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard UK 2ply for which a baby 2ply or some kind of lace weight yarn could be substituted (always checking the tension).

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

One Size only.
Note: Carry colours not in use loosely up side of work.
B: Main shade (blue); G: 1st contrast (grey); W: 2nd contrast (white).

Left Side

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade Blue (B), cast on 116 stitches and noting that 1st row is a wrong side row, work 7 rows in garter stitch (every row knit).

Change to No 7 (4½mm ) needles and continue in garter stitch and stripes of 6 rows 1st Contrast Grey (G), 4 rows 2nd Contrast White (W) and 8 rows main shade Blue (B), until work measures 7 inches, ending with the right side facing for the next row.

Keeping continuity of stripes, shape armhole by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until 66 stitches remain.

Work 2 rows.
Cast off.

Right Side

Work as for Left Side but shaping the armhole by decreasing at the end of the rows instead of the beginning.

Making up and borders

Do not press.
Using a flat seam, join the straight side edges to form the centre back seam.

Arm Borders: With right side facing, using No 10 (3¼mm) needles
and B, knit up 84 stitches along the shaped edges.
Work 6 rows garter stitch.
Cast off.

Fold Arm Borders in half (right sides inside) so that the short side edges meet the cast-off edges.
Join these edges together with a fine back-stitch seam.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting yarn, 25% wool , 75% acrylic. For this pattern it's loosely knitted on 4½mm needles.

Materials

DK 50g balls:
3 in main shade
2 in 1st contrast
1 in 2nd contrast

One pair each of No 10 (3¼mm) and No 7 (4½mm ) needles.

Tension

21 sts x 28 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch on 4½mm needles

Size matters

To fit chest:
32 (34, 36) inches
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

Jumper Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, cast on 108 (114, 120) stitches and work 2½ inches in k1/p1 rib.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and work in twisted stocking stitch thus:
1st Row: knit across all stitches through back loop (ktbl).
2nd Row: purl.
These 2 rows form twisted stocking stitch ★.
Continue in twisted stocking stitch until work measures 16 inches.

Armhole Shaping:
Cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 80 (84, 88) stitches remain ★★.

Continue straight until work measures 23 (23½, 24) inches.

Shoulder Shaping:
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows and 6 (7, 8) stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 36 (38, 40) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder for the back neck.

Jumper Front

Work as for the back up to ★★.
Continue straight until work measures 21 (21½, 22) inches, ending with a purl row.

Neck Shaping:
Next Row: ktbl 29 (30, 31) stitches; turn.
Continue on these stitches only.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 7 rows.
Work 8 rows straight.

Shoulder Shaping:
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 6 (7, 8) stitches.

With right side facing, slip the centre 22 (24, 26) stitches on to a stitch-holder.

Complete the other side of the neck to match.

Jumper Sleeves

Using No 11 needles, cast on 44 (46, 48) stitches.
Work as for the back to ★.
Continue in twisted stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 72 (78, 84) stitches
Continue straight until work measures 17 inches.

To shape the top cast off 5 (6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 38 stitches remain; then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 10 rows.
Cast off.

Jumper Polo Collar

Join the right shoulder.
With right side facing, using No 11 needles, pick up and knit 18 stitches down the left side of the neck, ktbl the stitches from stitch-holder, pick up and knit 18 stitches up the right side of the neck, ktbl
the stitches from the back neck. [94 (98, 102) sts]

Work 3 inches in k1/p1 rib.
Change to No 9 needles and rib a further 3½ inches.
Cast off loosely ribwise.

Sleeveless Cardigan Back

Using No 11 needles and main shade, cast on 115 (123, 131) stitches.

Moss Stitch row: k1, (p1, k1) to end.

Editors note: Moss stitch - or "seed stitch" - is worked by alternating knit and purl stitches on every row - like ribbing. However, unlike ribbing, you do not align the knit and purl stitches vertically above each other but do the exact opposite; so, as you view the stitches, you will knit a stitch showing a purl "bump" from the previous row, and purl into a knit stitch.
"Double moss stitch" (not seen in this pattern) is usually where you do 2 rows of apparent rib with the stitches aligned vertically, then for the next two "rib" rows you misalign them with the previous two rows - and so on.
The row given above works up into moss stitch when repeated on an odd number of stitches.

Repeat the Moss Stitch row row 9 times.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and pattern:

1st Row: with main shade M, k1, (sl1 purlwise, k3) to the last 2 stitches, sl1 purlwise, k1.
2nd Row: with M, p1, (sl1 purlwise, p3) to last 2 stitches, sl1 purlwise, p1.
3rd Row: join in first contrast (O), (sl1 purlwise, k3) to end.
4th Row: with O, p3, (sl1 purlwise, p3) to end.
5th and 6th Rows: with 2nd contrast (R) work as 1st and 2nd rows.
7th and 8th Rows: with 3rd contrast (G) work as 3rd and 4th rows.
These 8 rows form the pattern.

Pattern until work measures 21 inches.

Armhole Shaping:
Cast off 7 (8, 9) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 83 (87, 91) stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 29½ (30, 30½) inches.

Shoulder Shaping:
Work as for the back of the sweater.
Leave the remaining 39 (41, 43) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Editors note: Although the original pattern explicitly states to leave these stitches, I do not see why you would not cast them off at this point - given that you are not required to pick them up again at any point later on, and the edging band is designed to be sewn all around the fronts and back neck.

Sleeveless Cardigan Right Front

Using No. 11 needles and M cast on 59 (63, 67) stitches.
Work as for the back up to the armhole shaping, ending with a right side row.

Armhole and Front Shaping:
Next Row: Cast off 7 (8, 9) stitches; pattern to the last 2 stitches, p2tog.
Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge on the next 9 (10, 11) rows, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on every 4th row; then continue shaping front edge only, until 22 (23, 24) stitches remain.
Work 5 rows.

Shoulder Shaping :
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 6 (7, 8) stitches

Sleeveless Cardigan Left Front

Work as for the right front, reversing shapings.

Sleeveless Cardigan Bands

Join shoulders.
Using No 11 needles and main shade cast on 9 stitches.
Work 2 inches in moss stitch.

Next Row (make buttonhole): moss stitch 3, cast off 3, moss stitch 3.
Next Row: moss stitch 3, cast on 3, moss stitch 3.
Continue in moss stitch, making further buttonholes 2½ inches apart (measure from base of previous buttonhole) until there are 8 in all.
Continue until band, when slightly stretched, fits all around both fronts
and across back neck.
Cast off.

Work the armbands in the same way, omitting the buttonholes.

Skirt (Back and Front Alike)

Using No 11 needles and colour M, cast on 147 (155, 163) stitches.
Work 10 rows in moss stitch.
Change to No 8 needles and working in pattern as for the sleeveless cardigan, decrease 1 stitch at each end of every 8th row until 101 (109, 117 ) stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 20 (20½, 21) inches.

Change to No 11 needles, and using M, work 1 inch in k1/p1 rib, beginning the 2nd row with "p1".
Cast off loosely ribwise.

Making Up

Press or block work according to yarn type.

Sweater:
Join the left shoulder and polo collar seams.
Set in the sleeves.
Join side and sleeve seams.

Sleeveless Cardigan:
Join the side seams.
Sew on the front band.
Join the cast-on and cast-off edges of the armbands.
Sew on the armbands with the seam placed at the underarms.
Sew on the buttons.

Skirt:
Join the side seams.
Join the elastic in a ring and attach to the wrong side of the waist with a herringbone casing.
Press seams.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 1 oz balls:
Jumper:
16 (17, 18)
Sleeveless cardigan:
5 (5, 6) main colour
3 (3, 3) in each of 3 contrasting colours
Skirt:
3 (3, 3) main colour
3 (3, 3) in each of 3 contrasting colours

One pair each of Nos 8 (4mm), 9 (3¾mm), and 11 (3mm) needles.
1 cable needle.

8 buttons for cardigan.
Waist-length elastic for skirt

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches measured over twisted stocking stitch on No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

24 sts x 40 rows measured over Pattern on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit chest 34, (36, 38) inches; hips 36 (38, 40) inches.

Sleeveless cardigan length: 29½ (30, 30½) inches.

Skirt length:
21 (21½, 22) inches.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
ktbl: knit the stitch through the back loop (thus twisting the stitch)
k2tog/p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together.

M - Gold
O - Orange
R - Red
G - Green

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a pure wool double knitting crepe.

The later yarn sold in 50g balls states a yardage of 123yds/112m per 50g.

Colours illustrated:
Sun Gold,
Mexican Orange,
Love Apple Red,
Woodland Green.
Suggested other combinations:
Ivory, Peach,
Roman Pink, and
Medoc - or -
White, Peacock.
Club Navy, and
Aubretia.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Jumper Back

★ Using size 12 (2¾mm) needles, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84) stitches, and work in k1/p1 rib for 1½ inches ending with a wrong side row.

Change to size 10 (3¼mm) needles and stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl).
Continue until work measures 5½ (6, 6½, 7) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Raglan Armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows ★ until 26 (28, 28, 30) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a spare needle.

Jumper Front

Follow instructions for Back from ★ to ★, until 42 (44, 44, 46) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.

Next row: k2, p2tog , k10 stitches and turn, leaving remaining stitches on a spare needle.

Still decreasing at the armhole edge as before, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every following alternate row until 5 stitches remain.
Keeping the neck edge straight, continue to decrease at the armhole edge until 2 stitches remain, working the decreases at the outer armhole edge when they can no longer be worked inside the border of 2 stitches.

Work 1 row; k2tog, and fasten off.

Slip the centre 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches onto a spare needle.
Join in the yarn at the neck edge to the remaining stitches; knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog , k2.
Complete to match the first side of neck.

Jumper Sleeves

Using size 12 needles, cast on 36 (38, 40, 42) stitches and work in k1/ p1 rib for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong side row.
Change to size 10 needles and stocking stitch.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 52 (56, 60, 64) stitches on the needle.
Continue without further shaping until work measures 5½ (6, 6½, 7) inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Shape Raglan Top by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Next row: k2, p2tog, knit to the last 4 stitches, p2tog, k2.
Next row: purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Leave these stitches on a safety pin.

Jumper Neckband

Using a flat stitch, join raglan seams, leaving left back raglan seam open. With the right side of the work facing and using size 12 needles, knit across the 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches on the top of the Left Sleeve; pick up and knit 12 stitches down the left side of the neck; knit across the 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches at the centre; pick up and knit 12 stitches up the right side of the neck; knit across the 6 (8, 8, 10) stitches on top of the Right Sleeve, and the 26 (28, 28, 30) stitches on the back neck.
[76 (84, 84, 92) sts.]

Work in k1/p1 rib for ¾ inch.
Cast off in rib.

Leggings - right leg

★ Using size 12 needles, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84) stitches.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib.
Next row: Rib 4, * yfwd., k2tog, rib 2. Repeat from * to end.
Work 3 rows in rib.
Change to size 10 needles and work as follows. ★

Shape Back

1st row: knit 16 (18, 20, 22) stitches and turn.
2nd row: purl to end.
3rd row: knit 31 (33, 35, 37) stitches and turn.
4th row: purl to end.
5th row: knit 46 (48, 50, 52) stitches and turn.
6th row: purl to end.
7th row: knit 61 (63, 65, 67) stitches and turn.
8th row: purl to end.

★★ Continue in stocking stitch, working across all stitches for 28 (32, 32, 34) rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 5th row until there are 88 (92, 96, 100) stitches on the needle, then increase 1 stitch at each end of the next 2 rows. [92 (96, 100, 104) sts]

Commence Leg Shaping by casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until 66 (72, 76, 80) stitches remain; then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every following 3rd row until 38 (38, 42, 42) stitches remain.

Continue on these stitches until work measures 16½ (17¼, 17¾, 18½) inches at the longest (back) edge, ending with a purl row. ★★

Materials

4 ply yarn 25g balls:
Jumper: 3 (3, 4, 5)
Leggings: 4 (4, 5, 5)
Beret: 2 (2, 2, 2)

Pair each of No 12 (2¾mm) and No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

4 inch zip fastener for jumper
Elastic for leggings waist

Tension

30sts and 38 rows to 4 inches

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
19 (20, 21, 22) inches.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
k2tog or p2tog: work two stitches together to decrease one stitch
k3tog: knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
sl1: slip the next stitch
psso: pass the slipped stitch over, ("sl1, k1, psso" also known as "ssk")
stocking stitch: alternate Rows of knit and purl. (US= "stockinette")

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was a superwash wool. It appeared as 1 oz balls, then as per this pattern in 25g balls, and finally in 50g balls.

Possible yardage based on the 50g ball information is 93 yards (85 metres) to 25g.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Back and Front (alike)

Using 4½mm needles, and W (white yarn), cast on 67 (71, 73, 77) stitches, and work 2 (2, 2½, 2½) inches in k1, p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for increase row.

Next row (increase - wrong side facing): rib 5 (7, 5, 7) * increase in next stitch; rib 7 (7, 8, 8); repeat from * to last 6 (8, 5, 7) stitches; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [75, 79, 81, 85 sts].

Change to 5½ mm needles.
Joining on and cutting off colours as required, proceed in pattern as follows, noting that stitches increased on Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 are decreased to the original number on Rows 4, 6, 8, 10 and 14.

Row 1 (right side): knit with main shade W (white).
Row 2: Using W, p4 (6, 7, 9); [k 13, p5] 3 times; k13, p4 (6, 7, 9).
Row 3: Using W, k2 (4, 5, 7); [yfwd, k 17, yfwd, k1] 3 times; yfwd, k 17, yfwd, k2 (4, 5, 7).
Row 4: Using W, p5 (7, 8, 10), [k5, k3tog, k5, p7] 3 times; k5, k3tog, k5, p5 (7, 8, 10).
Row 5: Using W, k3 (5, 6, 8); [yfwd, k15, yfwd, k3] 3 times; yfwd, k15, yfwd. k3 (5, 6, 8).
Row 6: Using W, p6 (8, 9, 11); [k4, k3tog; k4, p9] 3 times; k4, k3tog, k4, p6 (8, 9, 11).
Row 7: Using W, k4 (6, 7, 9), [yfwd, k 13, yfwd, k5) 3 times, yfwd, k13, yfwd,. k4 (6, 7, 9).
Row 8: Using W, p7 (9, 10, 12), [k3, k3tog, k3, p11] 3 times, k3, k3tog, k3, p7 (9, 10, 12).
Row 9: Using R (red yarn), k5 (7, 8, 10); [yfwd, k11, yfwd, k7] 3 times, yfwd, k11, yfwd, k5 (7, 8, 10).
Row 10: Using R, p8 (10, 11, 13); [k2, k3tog, k2, p13) 3 times; k2, k3tog, k2, p8 (10, 11, 13).
Row 11: Using W, k6 (8, 9, 11); [yfwd, k9] 7 times; yfwd, k6 (8, 9, 11).
Row 12: Using W, p9 (11, 12, 14), [k1, k3tog, k1, p15] 3 times, k1, k3tog, k1, p9 (11, 12, 14).
Row 13: Using W, k7 (9, 10, 12), [yfwd, k7, yfwd, k11] 3 times, yfwd, k7, yfwd, k7 (9, 10, 12).
Row 14: Using W, p10 (12, 13, 15), [k3tog, p17] 3 times; k3tog, p10 (12, 13, 15).

Editors note: Now you repeat the same pattern sections but change the colours.

Rows 15 to 22: As Rows 1 to 8 but use R instead of W.
Rows 23 and 24: As Rows 9 and 10 but use N instead of R.
Rows 25 to 28: As Rows 11 to 14 but use R instead of W.
Rows 29 to 36: As Rows 1 to 8 but use N instead of W.
Rows 37 and 38: As Rows 9 and 10 but use W instead of R.
Rows 39 to 42: As Rows 11 to 14 but use N instead of W.

These 42 Rows form the pattern repeat them once more, then work Rows 1 to 14 again.
Now work Rows 1 to 14 once more. Cut off B and C.
Work 5 Rows in rib.
Cast off in rib.

Sleeves

Using 4½mm needles, and W, cast on 37 (37, 39, 39) stitches, and work 2 (2, 2½, 2½) inches in k1, p1 rib, ending with wrong side facing for increase row.

Next row (increase - wrong side facing): rib 2; [m1; increase in the next stitch] 5 times; rib 2; [increase in the next stitch] 8 (8, 9, 9) times; [m1; increase in the next stitch] 6 times; rib 2; [increase in the next stitch] 8 (8, 9, 9) times; rib to end. [75, 75, 79, 79 sts]

Change to 5½ mm needles.
Following instructions for the 1st (1st, 2nd, 2nd) sizes work the 42 pattern rows as for the Back twice, then work rows 1 to 14 again.
Cast off.

To Make Up

See the yarn ball band for washing and pressing details.

Join shoulder seams leaving approximately 9 (9½, 9½, 10) inches open at the centre for the neck.
Mark depth of armholes 8¾ (8¾, 9¼, 9¼) inches down from the shoulders on the back and front.
Set the sleeves in between the markers, then join the side and sleeve seams.

Materials

Chunky yarn:
6 (6, 6, 7) x 50g balls in main colour Snowdrop (white);
3 (3, 3, 3) balls in Grenadier (red); and
2 (3, 3, 3) balls in Navy (dark blue).

Pair each of No 7 (4½mm) and No 5 (5½mm) needles.

Tension

17sts and 24 rows to 4 inches over pattern stitch.

Size matters

Finished chest measurement:
35 (37, 38, 40) inches.
Editors note: This is intended to be a loose fit to suit a 32 - 38 inch chest size.

Abbreviations

k: knit
p: purl
yfwd: yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern eyelet hole when knitted on the next row.
m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the strand of yarn before the next stitch and knit into the back of it.
k3tog: knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was:
65% Acrylic
20% Wool
15% Nylon - yardage not given

Note that chunky yarns can cover a wide variation in thickness so check your tension and alter the needle size if necessary.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

[Editor's note: If you are not familiar with fisherman rib stitch or brioche worked with two colours, it should be quite easy to pick up from the instructions below, once you understand that you do two rows with right side facing (one in each colour) and then two wrong side rows (one in each colour) - hence the need for double-pointed needles.
There is however a big BUT - which is that you do have to careful when increasing and decreasing, so it might be a good idea to practise a little before you start. On the other hand, by the time you get to the shaping, you should be adept enough to see and understand the way the stitches are formed - just make sure by counting a couple of times that you have actually decreased the stitches where required.]

Striped Fisherman Rib Pattern

The two-colour brioche pattern has to be worked on needles or circular with points at both ends.

1st row (right side): With B, k1; * p1, slip1pw, yrn; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

2nd row (right side): With A, k1; yft, slip1pw, * yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, yft, slip1pw; repeat from * to last stitch, yon, k1.
3rd row (wrong side): With B, k1, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, * yft, slip1pw, yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

4th row (wrong side): With A, k1, yft, * slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, slip1pw, yon, k1.
5th row (right side): With B, k1, yft, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, * slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

The last 4 rows from 2nd to 5th inclusive, form the pattern.

Important notes on the brioche pattern:

• When counting the number of stitches, do not count the "made" loops as stitches, as they will be knitted together with the adjacent stitch.
• When counting rows, each knit rib which you can see counts as 2 rows.
• When casting off stitches at the top of the back and centre front, take care to cast off loosely in single rib as the stitches appear and either knit or purl the "made" loop together with the correct stitch as usual, but do not make any fresh loops.

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 85 (89, 93) stitches and work in single rib:
**
1st row (right side): K1; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: P1; * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these two rows until work measures 3 inches (8cm) from the beginning, ending with 1st rib row.
**
Increase row: Rib 6 (8, 10), [double increase, rib 7] 9 times, double increase, rib 6 (8, 10). [105 (109, 113) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern as given above.

Continue until work measures 13½ (14, 15) inches from the beginning.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 28 (29, 29) times.

Cast off remaining 31 stitches for back neck.

Front

Work as for back until 114 (120, 124) rows have been worked from the beginning of the raglan shaping; 39 stitches remain for all sizes, ending with a decrease row.

Neck Shaping:

Next row: Pattern 13, and leave these stitches on a holder; cast off the next 13 stitches; pattern to end.
Continue on these last 13 stitches now remaining on the needle.

***
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 6 rows, and then at the same edge on the next 2 alternate rows, and at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows; then decrease 1 stitch at the raglan edge on every following 4th row twice.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the other set of 13 stitches, and complete in the same way, from *** reversing shaping.

Note that the front is overall 4 rows shorter than the back.

Left Sleeve

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 51 (55, 55) stitches and work as for back welt from ** to **.

Increase row: Rib 4 (6, 6), [double increase, rib 13] 3 times, double increase, rib 4 (6, 6). [59 (63, 63) sts]

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern, but increase 1 stitch at both ends of every following 10th row 6 (8, 3) times, then every following 8th row 12 (10, 17) times, working the extra stitches into the pattern.
[95 (99, 103) sts]

Continue straight until work measures 16 (16½, 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a 3rd (5th, 5th) pattern row.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (10, 12) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 22 (23, 23) times; for all sizes 33 stitches remain, ending with a 5th pattern row.
****

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches for the back sleeve section on a spare needle; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for front section of sleeve.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 9 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 4 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for back sleeve section.
Decrease 1 stitch at neck-opening edge on every alternate row 5 times, then every following 4th row 3 times; at the same time, keep the raglan edge straight for 2 more rows then then decrease 1 stitch at this edge on the next row, then every following 4th row 5 times more.
Cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Note that front edge off sleeve is 4 rows shorter than back edge.

Right Sleeve

Work as for left sleeve to ****.

Neck Opening:

2nd pattern row (right side): Pattern 16 and leave these stitches on a spare needle for front sleeve section; cast off 1 stitch; pattern to end.

Continue on 16 stitches now remaining on the needle for back section of right sleeve, and complete as for back section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Rejoin the correct colour to the stitches on the spare needle for front sleeve section, and complete as for front section of left sleeve, reversing shapings.

Make Up and Neck Borders

Join front raglan seams and right back seam matching vertical stripes. With right side of work facing and using No 11 (3mm) needles, using main colour A, pick up and knit 15 stitches along the neck opening at the top of the left sleeve, 41 stitches round front neck edge, 15 stitches along neck opening at the top of the right sleeve and 32 stitches across the back neck.
Beginning with the 2nd row work in single rib as on the welt for 9 rows then cast off loosely ribwise.
Join left back raglan seam and the ends of the neck border.
Fold this border in half to the wrong side, and slip-stitch the cast-off edge to the back of the picked-up stitches.
Join side and sleeve seams.

You should not press or iron any of the single or fisherman rib.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 50g balls:
7 (8, 9) in main colour A - purple;
5 (6, 6) in contrast colour B - bright teal.

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles, and two (long) double pointed needles or circular, No 9 (3¾mm) for working the pattern.

Tension

20 sts x 50 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern; work a sample on 25 stitches beginning with 2 rows of rib in contrast A then continue in pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest 32-34, (36, 38-40)
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
double increase: into next stitch, purl into front, then knit into back, then purl again into front of same stitch.
slip1pw: slip the next stitch inserting needle into it as if it were a purl.
yft: yarn to front.
yon: yarn over needle.
yrn: yarn round needle.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting wool (50% ) mix, with acrylic (40%) and mohair (10%). The quoted yardage was 125 meters, (137 yds), per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.