Elegant Yoked Sweater
Fabulous sweater-girl look from the 1950s created by Sara.
This is a close-fitting design with some negative ease. Sara created hers from the top down translating the instructions as she went along; she did not write down her adaptation, but it is far from impossible to convert it dynamically, as Sara did, with this type of design.
Instructions are provided for one size only, but some modifications are possible.
The cable over 6 sts is worked as follows:
Cable: Slip next 3 sts. onto a cable
needle to back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.
Back and front alike:
With No 11 (3mm) needles cast on 84 sts and work 3½ inches in
k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and stocking-stitch,
increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 6th row until
there are 102 sts.
Work a second identical piece for the front.
Sleeves (make 2):
You have the option of log or short sleeves - work one or other set of intructions.
Long sleeve: With No 11 needles
cast on 48 sts and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles
and stocking-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every
following 6th row until there are 76 sts.
Short sleeve: With No 11 needles
cast on 66 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles
and stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 3rd and every
following 4th row until there are 76 sts. Work straight until sleeve measures
4½ inches, then shape top as for long sleeve.
You should now have 2 identical pieces for the back and front, and two identical pieces for the sleeves, all on spare needles or stitch holders.
With right side facing and the set of No 10 needles.....
[Editor's note: If you are using a circular needle, thread the stitches on in the order: sleeve, front, sleeve, back. Put a stitch marker to mark the beginning/end of the round, as front and back look the same. Also remember that the yoke decreases in size until it becomes the neck opening so you may wish to change between lengths of circular needle and finally move to 4 needles as the round becomes smaller.]
Work in rounds as follows:
1st round: K5, *
k7, p2, k17; repeat from * ending
last repeat k12 instead of k17.
12th round: K2tog, k2, *
p6, cable, p6, k3, k2tog, k3; repeat from *
to last 22sts, p6, cable, p6, k4. [250 sts]
18th round: K3, *
p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog, k3; repeat from *
to last 22sts, p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog. [240 sts]
24th round: K2tog, k1, *
p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog, k2; repeat from *
to last 21sts, p6, cable, p6, k3. [230 sts]
30th round: K2, *
p5, cable, p5, k2, k2tog, k1; repeat from *
to last 19sts, p5, cable, p5, k1, k2tog. [200 sts]
36th round: K2tog, *
p4, cable, p4, k1, k2tog, k1; repeat from *
to last 16sts; p4, cable, p4, k2. [170sts]
42nd round: K1, *
p3, cable, p3, k2tog, k1; repeat from *
to last 14 sts; p3, cable, p3, k2tog. [140 sts]
48th round: P2tog, *
p1, cable, p2, k2tog, p1; repeat from *
to last 10sts, pl, cable, p2, k.l. [110 sts]
Divide stitches onto No 11 needles, 45 across front and 45 across back.
Work 7 rows k1, p1 rib across front of neck; cast off in rib. Work back
of neck in the same way.
To Make Up
Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Original materials called for: 14 ozs. for long sleeves, 11 ozs. for short sleeves of Patons Moorland Double Knitting**.
Example knitted in Twilleys Freedom Spirit DK - 8 x 50g balls - about 900m.
1 pair each of No 11 (3mm), and No 10 (3¼ mm) needles, and a set of 4 No 10 (3¼ mm) needles, or circular needle.[Editor's note: Please see the important notes about the wool used for the modern version, the consequent needle sizes used, and the sizing.]
A cable needle. Two press-fasteners.
Original yarn knits 24sts x 32 rows to four inches on No 10 needles.
Substitute yarn knits 22sts x 28 rows to four inches on No 8 (4mm) needles.
Original sized for bust 33-35 inches; length from top of shoulders 20½ inches; sleeve seam: 17 or 4½ inches.
See "adapting the size".
**A word on the wool.
If you have some vintage Patons Moorland DK - you may like to note that I surmise they used this brand name for more than one version of this wool; I have some Moorland from the 1980s and I believe it is a relatively thick DK, which would be hard to contemplate knitting on No10 needles.
Sara used Twilleys
Freedom Spirit DK, (120m per 50g ball), which knits as 22sts x 28
rows to 4ins on 4mm needles.
See "adapting the size".
The original pattern is for one size: 34-35 inch bust. The sweater is designed to be tightly fitting, and the nominal sweater size is just under 34 ins, so it intends there to be slight negative ease. The original wool and needle sizes indicate a "fine double knitting" wool with a tension of 24sts to 4 inches on 3¼mm (relatively fine) needles.
The sizing is a bit small for an average size these days, so moving to a conventional DK wool (22 sts to 4 ins on 4mm needles) makes a nominal size of about 36½ins, making the sweater suitable for up to a 37-38 ins bust. Also - whatever wool and needle size you opt for - note particularly the suggestion to move to a larger needle size when working the yoke.
If you increase the size by further gauge changes with thicker wool, you will find that the sweater may be less suited to the close fitting styling, and you lose the 50s "look".