Instructions
Back and fronts are worked together and then divided and worked separately
at the armholes.
Note that all the charted patterns are worked in shades "dark" and "light". The medium shade is used for bands of colour.
Back and Fronts:
No 2 (7mm) needles and Medium shade, cast on 127 stitches and work ribbed
welt as follows:
1st row: k1, *
p1, k1, rep. from * to end.
2nd row: p1, *
k1, p1, rep. from * to end.
Continue using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows 3 times.
Using Light, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice.
Using Light, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
The ribbed welt is now complete.
The remainder of Back and Fronts is worked in stocking stitch, (knit
on right side, purl on wrong side), breaking off and joining in colours
as required.
[Editor's note: You
may need to use a circular needle to contain this many stitches in bulky
yarn, but you will still work back and forth as if on 2 needles.]
Commencing with a knit row, work 4 rows Medium, then 3 rows Light.
Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart A, working
16 stitch repeat 7 times, plus the odd 15 stitches as marked, Read the
chart from left to right on purl rows and right to left on knit rows.
Chart A
[Editor's note: After
working Chart A the adult instructions call for a slightly longer length
than the child's version.]
Then, starting with a knit row, work 3 rows in Light.
Using Medium colour, continue until work measures
11 inches from the beginning, finishing at the end of a purl row.
Work 2 rows in Light.
Work rows 1-20 inclusive from Chart B, working from right-hand side to
the centre stitch; work the centre stitch; then work back to the right-
hand side on every row.
[Editor's note: After you work the centre stitch you repeat the chart
again - I think it's fairly easy to see from the design and photo how
this is supposed to work out. You are starting with a right side knit
row at the right front centre of the cardigan, working round to the centre
stitch at the back and then continuing back round to the left front centre.]
Chart B (slightly larger picture
at end)
Divide for Back and Fronts:
Next row (21st row of Chart B): knit
26 in Light, cast off 11 stitches in Light; (1st left on needle after
cast-off), knit 25 stitches in Light, knit 1 stitch in Dark, knit 26 sts
in Light, cast off 11 stitches in Light. (1st left on needle after cast-off),
knit remaining 25 stitches in Light.
Turn and proceed on the last group of 26 stitches only for Left Front.
[Editor's note: After
dividing for back and fronts, the adult instructions again need a slightly
longer length in the armhole,.
Left Front:
Shape armhole and commence to shape front slope:
Next row (22nd row of Chart B): purl
2 in Dark, purl 24 in Light.
Slip the remaining 2 groups of stitches on to length of wool, spare needles,
or needle-holder, and leave to complete later.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): knit
26 in Light.
Next row: purl 26 in Light..
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit
to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Using Medium, work 3 rows.
Next row: Using Medium, k2tog, knit
to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. [22stitches]
This completes the armhole shaping.
Continue to shape the front slope as follows:
Using Medium, work 3 rows.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the
last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Using Medium, work 1 row.
Using Light, work 2 rows.
Next row: Using Light, knit to the
last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart C, working
the 4 stitch repeat 5 times, reading from left to right on purl rows and
from right to left on knit rows.
Chart C
Next row: Using Light, knit to the
last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Using Light, work 2 rows.
Using Medium, work 1 row.
Next row: Using Medium, knit to the
last 2 stitches, k2tog. [18 sts]
Starting with a purl row, work 2 rows Light, 1 row Medium.
Front slope shaping is now complete.
Using Medium for the remainder of the Left Front, continue on these
stitches until the armhole measures 8½ ins, (that is 8½ ins
from the 11 cast-off stitches), finishing at end of a purl row.
Cast off.
Back:
Slip the group of 53 stitches back on to the working needles, and with wrong
side facing rejoin Light proceeding for Back as follows:
Next row (22nd row of Chart B): purl
24 in Light, p5 in dark, p24 in Light.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): knit
26 in Light, p1 in dark, p26 in Light..
Next row: purl 53 in Light
Next row: Using Light, k2tog; knit
to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. [51sts]
Work 3 rows in Medium.
Next row: Using Medium, k2tog; knit
to the last 2 stitches, k2tog. [49sts]
Armhole shaping is now complete.
Work 5 rows in Medium, then 3 rows in Light.
Starting with a purl row, work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D, working
the odd stitch as marked, then the 4 stitch repeat 12 times.
Chart D
Using Light work 3 rows.
Using Medium for the remainder of the Back, continue until the armhole
measures 8½ ins, (that is 8½ ins from the 11 cast-off stitches),
finishing at the end of a purl row..
Cast off 18 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, and slip the remaining
13 stitches on to a length of wool, spare needle, or needle-holder, and leave
to pick up later.
Right Front:
Slip remaining 26 stitches back on to the working needles, rejoin Light, and
with wrong side of work facing proceed as for the Left Front, reversing
all shapings, and noting that the first 4 rows will read:
Next row (22nd row of Chart B): purl
24 in Light, p2 in Dark.
Next row (23rd row of Chart B): knit
26 in Light.
Next row: Purl 26 in Light.
Next row: Using Light, k2tog, knit
to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
...and then as stated above, complete as for Left front reversing shapings.
Sleeves
[Editor's note:
The sleeves are knitted top down, making for easy length adjustments (or
repairs).]
Using Medium, and commencing at the top of the Sleeve, cast on 49 stitches
and work 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Continue in stocking stitch as follows:
Using Light, work 3 rows.
Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D, working the odd stitch as marked,
then the 4 stitch repeat 12 times across the row.
Then work 3 rows in Light, 13 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.
Work rows 1-7 inclusive from Chart E, working the 16 stitch repeat 3
times, and the odd stitch as marked.
Chart E
Work 3 rows in Light, 9 rows in Medium, and 3 rows in Light.
Work rows 1-3 inclusive from Chart D, working the 4 stitch repeat 12 times,
and the odd stitch as marked.
Work 3 rows in Light, and 1 row in Medium.
Using Medium, work 1st and 2nd rows of rib as on the body.
Using Light, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows twice.
Using Light, repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.
Using Medium, repeat 1st and 2nd rows 3 times.
Cast off in rib.
Back Collar
Slip the 13 stitches from the Back neck on to the working needles, and
with right side of work facing proceed in rib as on the welts, increasing
1 stitch at both ends of the 3rd and every following 4th row until there
are 27 stitches on the needle.
Continue on these stitches until the rib measures 8 inches from the beginning.
Cast off in rib.
Sides of Collar
With right side of back collar facing, using Medium colour, knit up 24
stitches along one of the the increase edges, and proceed in garter stitch
(every row knit), decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and
every following alternate row until 2 stitches remain.
[Editor's note:
The decrease edge is the one which will be sewn to the front slope to
make the shawl collar. When the collar is folded over the ribbed section
will be visible at the back of the jacket, and the garter stitch sides
will be visible at the front of the jacket.]
Cast off.
Work the other side of the collar to match.
To Make Up
Omitting the ribbing, with wrong side of work facing block each piece
by pinning out round edges. Omitting ribbing, press each piece using a
warm iron and damp cloth.
Using a back-stitch seam join shoulder and sleeve seams and stitch sleeves
into position.
Using a flat seam, stitch Collar in position.
With right side facing, work 1 row of double crochet along each front
edge where the zip is then stitched into position.
Press seams.
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Materials
Double knitting version:
22 oz Medium (grey-main shade),
14oz Light (white),
6 oz. Dark.
Bulky yarn version:
12 hanks Medium,
8 hanks Dark,
4 hanks Light.
[Hank assumed to be 2oz]
Actual quantities vary depending on yardage of substitute yarn.
One pair of No 2 (7mm) needles, and/or a circular needle.
One No 7 (4½mm) crochet hook.
18-inch open-ended zip.
[Editor's note: When using a vintage pattern with a modern yarn, you might
want to wait until the garment is finished before deciding on the length
of the zip required.]
Colourways
Instructions are for three colours - light, medium and dark - actual
shade not specified.
Tension
12sts x 16 rows to 4 ins on 7mm needles over stocking stitch.
Size matters
To fit chest: 42 ins
Length from top of shoulder: 25½ inches
Sleeve seam: 19 inches
Instructions are given for one size only.
Abbreviations
inc: increase by working into the front and back of the next stitch.
dec: decrease by knitting two stitches together.
k2tog: decrease by knitting two stitches together.
Stranding
When using two or more colours, it is recommended that you strand the
colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.
A word on the wool.
Original yarn was
Patons "Moorland" double knitting using 3 strands held together
- or -
"Big Ben" which was a very thick yarn used as a single strand.
Quantities are hard to predict and to be safe, I often allow one 50g
ball for every 1oz for these vintage patterns, despite the fact that 1
oz is only 28g.
Disclaimer
(well...almost)
In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced,
in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please
and I will try and assist.
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