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Archive entry for November 2014

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November 2014

Poncho Capes - striped or plain...

PonchoCape1.jpg

Ponchos are being cited as a trend at the moment - and also apparently: fringes. So here you have the perfect combination. From the 1970s (of course) this is a rather good plain shape and very simple to knit all in garter stitch - if you like that kind of thing, or yearn to recreate a piece of history.

"See how cool I am with my striped poncho in natural earth tones..."
"Look! What's that over there?"
"Whatever you say, I'm not looking - you are merely trying to compensate for your lack of cool stripeyness."

Instructions.

Instructions given for striped version with pattern rows as follows:

1st - 16th rows: knit in main shade.
17th - 20th rows: knit in contrast.

These 20 rows form the stripe pattern.

The plain version is worked in exactly the same way but using only one colour.

Back and Front (alike)

(Worked sideways, starting at left side for Back and right side for Front).

With No 8 (4mm) needles and main shade (MS), cast on 58 stitches and joining in contrast (C) as required, work in garter stitch (every row knit) and stripe pattern throughout, starting with 2nd pattern row, shaping as follows:

1st and following alternate rows (wrong side): Knit.
2nd row: Cast on 5 stitches; knit these 5 stitches, knit to end.
4th row: As second row.
6th row: As second row.
8th row: Cast on 4 stitches; knit these 4 stitches, knit to end.
10th row: As 8th row.
12th row: As 8th row.
14th row: Cast on 3 stitches; knit these 3 stitches, knit to end.
16th row: Cast on 2 stitches; knit these 2 stitches, knit to end.
17th row: Knit to last stitch, increase in last stitch.

Now increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row, and at the same edge on every row until there are 106 stitches.

Work 1 row.

Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row, until there are 112 stitches.

Work 3 rows.

Now increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every 4th row, until there are 117 stitches, then at the beginning of every following 6th row until there are 123 stitches.

Work 80 rows, thus ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Shape neck by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row and at the same edge on every row until 113 stitches remain.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next and every alternate row until 108 stitches remain.

Work 34 rows.

Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next and every alternate row until there are 113 stitches.

Work 1 row.

Now increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row and at the same edge on every row until there are 123 stitches.

Work 80 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next and every 6th row until 116 stitches remain, then at the end of every following 4th row until 111 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next and every alternate row until 106 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.

Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the next row and at the same edge on every row until 90 stitches remain.

Work 1 row.

Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 3 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.

Work 1 row.

Now cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 5 stitches at the beginning of the following 3 alternate rows.

Cast off the remaining 58 stitches.


Borders and Making Up

Do not press.

Back Neck Border:
With right side facing, No 10 needles and contrast colour, knit up 45 stitches all round the neck.
Work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Cast off.

Front Neck Border:
Work as for Back Neck Border.

Using a flat seam, join shoulder seams leaving 3 inches open at each side of the neck.

Back shoulder opening borders:
With right side facing, No 3½mm hook and contrast colour, work 2 rows double crochet (American single crochet) along back shoulder openings.
Fasten off.

Front shoulder opening borders:
Work as for Back shoulder opening borders with the addition of 3 button loops evenly spaced on 2nd row.

To make a button loop: 3 chain, miss 2 dc, dc into next dc.

Neatly catch down the base of the borders, front over back.

Cut remaining yarn into 10 inch lengths and taking 4 strands together each time, knot all round outer edge, matching main shade to main shade and contrast to contrast, (as in the photo), to form a fringe.
Trim fringes.

Sew two sets of buttons in position as in photograph (1 button on back, the other to correspond on front).
[Editor's Note: I think the addition of the button to make a kind of sleeve is a good design feature - or would be if it were functional; however this version has a sleeve button that seems to be purely decorative, so I might choose to omit it altogether - thus saving on the investment in 4 extra buttons!]

Sew remaining 6 buttons on shoulders to correspond with button loops.

Press seams.

Materials

Pure wool striped version in superwash double knitting 15 x 50g balls in main shade; 4 in contrast;
Pure wool plain version in tweed double knitting: 19 x 50g balls.

A pair each of Nos
10 (3¼mm) and 8 (4mm) needles.
One 3½mm crochet hook.

10 buttons.

Tension

22 sts and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch using 4 mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is written to fit bust: 32-38 inches; length from top of shoulders (excluding fringe) 25 inches.

Abbreviations

inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch

dec: decrease by working 2 stitches together

Crochet abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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