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MouseToy1.jpg
LeggyDolls.jpg
CatToy1.jpg
DollHatCoat.jpg
Lion.jpg
Santa1.jpg
TopsyTurvy2.jpg
FrenchPoodle.jpg
SailorDoll.jpg
EasterBunny.jpg
tortoise.jpg

Entry Listings below or return to top for gallery view.

January 2023

Cuddly Mouse Toy

MouseToy1.jpg

This is another simple (and fairly flat) toy which could go with the baby layette.
It's made in two colours using a slip stitch technique to make the pattern. It looks good with the main colour in white, and might work well using up left over yarns.

Instructions

The original pattern used two strands held together of a 4ply weight yarn, but you could easily use a single strand of anything from a double knit through to a chunky yarn, which would ultimately only affect the resulting size of the toy. It's nice to have a fairly firm tension for a toy so adjust the needle size as appropriate.

Body (2 pieces)

Using contrast colour (B), cast on 23 stitches.
1st row: knit in B.
2nd row: purl in B.
Join in white (A)
3rd row: In A, k1, * sl1p, k1; repeat from * to end
4th row: In A, k1, * yf, sl1p, yb, k1; repeat from * to end

These four rows form the colour pattern.

Keeping the pattern correct, continue and cast on 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Work 2 rows.

Repeat the last 4 rows [31 sts].
Work 2 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 8th row until 15 stitches remain.
Work 7 rows.
Cast off.

Work a second piece in the same way.

MouseToyBody.jpg

Head (2 pieces)

Using white (A), start at the nose and cast on 3 stitches.
Starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following alternate row until there are 21 stitches on the needle.
Work 3 rows.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 11 stitches.

Work a second piece in the same way.

MouseToyHead.jpg

Ears (4 pieces)

Using contrast colour (B), cast on 7 stitches, and, starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and following alternate row.
Work 5 rows.
Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off the remaining 7 stitches.

Work three further pieces in the same way.

MouseToyEars.jpg

Tail (1 piece)

The tail can be either a 4-stitch I-cord, or a twisted cord - make it as long as you think suitable for the toy.

To Make Up

[Editor's note: This toy is designed to have a cotton lining - which I believe is designed to help it keep its flat shape. I stuffed it with concentric layers of flat synthetic quilt padding instead, using the knitted shapes as a guide.]

Cut out the body and head in calico, leaving a 1½cm seam allowance, using the knitted pieces as a template.

Join the side seams of the body and the outside edges of the head, of both the knitted and calico versions. Turn the calico lining to the right side and sew head to body. Fill and sew up lower edge.

Place the lining inside the the knitted version and finish all seams.

[Editor's note: I found the instructions a bit vague here - you just have to use the picture as a guide to see how and where to attach the head to the body, and discover how that all works out with a lining! However this is simple toy so it's easy enough to extemporise.]

Seam the ears together, noting that the reverse stocking stitch is the right side. Sew the cast-off edges of the ears to the head.

Attach the tail to the body.

The eyes can be embroidery or buttons as shown in the picture. There is also a tiny embroidered nose.

Materials

Double Knitting, Aran, or Worsted:
1 ball in each of white (A) and a contrast (B).

Pair of No 9 (3¾mm) needles.

30cm x 30cm (12 inch square) of calico for lining.

Stuffing.

Tension

25 sts and 34 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch. However, as this is a toy the tension is less important - you just need to be consistent.

Size matters

Makes about a 10 inch toy.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
sl1p: slip 1 stitch purlwise.
yf: bring the yarn to the front of the work.
yb: take the yarn to the back of the work.
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A Word on the Wool:

The original yarns used were a quick-knit - that is between a DK and a 4ply - and a 4ply, but the yarns were used double.

The original yarn came in 50g balls of 160 metres.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

November 2022

Long Tall Sally (with her beau)

LeggyDolls.jpg

Lovable leggy dolls in their fashionable trouser suits - knitted with sewn-on felt features.

Instructions.

The basic dolls are identical, differing only in hair and clothing.

Girl Doll - head (2 pieces alike):

With No 11 needles and flesh colour, cast on 12 stitches.
Working in stocking stitch, increase 1 stitch at each end of the next 9 rows, then increase stitch each end of the following 5 alternate rows. Then, increase 1 stitch each end of every 3rd row until there are 46 stitches.
Work 15 rows straight.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every 3rd row
until 40 stitches remain.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the following 5 alternate rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 12 stitches remain. Cast off.

Make a second piece the same and join together, leaving cast-on edges open.
Stuff firmly.


Girl Doll - body (2 pieces alike):

With No 11 needles and flesh colour, cast on 24 stitches.
Work 22 rows stocking stitch.
Then, decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 5 rows straight.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every 5th row until there are 32 stitches.
Work 5 rows straight.
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the following 3 alternate rows.
Work 3 rows straight.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Work 17 rows straight.
Cast off.

Make a second piece the same and join together, leaving cast-off edges open.
Stuff firmly and sew to head opening.

Girl Doll - legs (make 2):

With No 11 needles and flesh colour, cast on 38 stitches.
Work 10 rows stocking stitch.

Next Row: k14, k2tog, k6, k2togtbl, k14.
Next Row: p13, p2togtbl, p6, p2tog, p13.
Continue decreasing as set on every row, working 1 stitch less at the beginning and end of the rows until 26 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 12 inches.
Cast off.

Join back and foot seams.
Stuff; close opening and sew to body.

Girl Doll - arms (make 2):

With No 11 needles and flesh colour, cast on 25 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch until work measures 7 inches, ending after a purl row.

Next Row: k1, (m1, k11, m1, k1) twice.
Purl one row.
Next Row: k1, (m1, k13, m1, k1) twice.
Purl one row.
Next Row: k1, (m1, k15, m1, k1) twice.

Work 11 rows straight.
Next Row: k1, (k2togtbl, k13, k2tog, k1) twice.
Next Row: p1, (p2tog, p11, p2togtbl, p1) twice.

Continue to decrease as set on the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Join side and hand seams.
Stuff; close opening and sew to body.

Girl Doll - hair:

Cut brown yarn in 36 inch lengths. With centre of strands of yarn at centre of head, arrange evenly over head from front hairline to nape of neck, backstitching securely over centre for parting.
Smooth down to ear level, catch down, then plait ends, tie and trim.

Girl Doll - features:

Cut oval sections, as given in the diagram, for eyes, (white felt); centres (black), mouth (red); sew on as shown in picture.

Girl Doll - jumper:

BACK: With No 9 needles and Red yarn, cast on 48 stitches.
Work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib. Break off red yarn, and join in Navy yarn.
*

** Continue in stocking-stitch until work measures 3¼ inches, ending with a purl row.

Next Row (make back opening): k26; turn.
Next Row: k4, purl to end.
Next Row: knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows until work measures 5¼ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape the armhole by casting off 3 stitches at the armhole edge on the next 3 rows.
Continue until work measures 8 inches.
Cast off.

Rejoin yarn to the inner edge of the remaining stitches, cast on 4 stitches, and complete to match the other side.

FRONT: Work exactly as for BACK as far as *.
Continue in stocking stitch until work measures 5¼ inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next 3 rows.
**

Neck shaping:
Next Row: k12; turn.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 3 rows.
Cast off.

Slip the centre 12 stitches on to a stitch holder and work the other side of the neck to match.

SLEEVES: With No 9 needles and Red yarn, cast on 40 stitches, and work as for the BACK up to *.

Continue in stocking stitch, until work measures 2 inches, ending with a purl row.
To shape the top, cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 22 stitches remain.
Cast off.

NECKBAND: Join the shoulder seams.
With No 9 needles and Red yarn, starting and the centre back, pick up and knit 48 stitches around the neck, including the stitches on the holder.
Rib 3 rows, and cast off loosely in rib.

Set in the sleeves.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Sew on 3 press studs down the back opening.

CHERRIES: Cut two circles in red felt - about the size of a 1p piece. Sew on and embroider stems with white yarn as shown in the photo.

Girl Doll - trousers:

LEGS (2 pieces alike): With No 9 needles and Red yarn, cast on 42 stitches. Work in stocking stitch, until work measures 8 inches, ending with a purl row.

Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 4th row.
Work 3 rows.
Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next 3 rows.
Continue in stocking stitch, until work measures 12½ inches.
Cast off.

Make a second leg the same.

Join front and back seams.
Join leg seams.
Turn up ½ inch hems to right side on legs and catch stitch in place.
Turn in ½ inch hem at waist, enclosing a ring of elastic, and catch stitch in place.

Girl Doll - socks:

With No 9 needles and Green yarn, cast on 46 stitches.
Work 10 rows in stocking stitch.

Next Row: k17, k2tog, k8, k2togtbl, k17.
Next Row: p16, p2togtbl, p8, p2tog, p16.

Working in stripes of 2 rows Red, and and 2 rows Green, continue decreasing as set until 32 stitches remain.
Pattern 13 rows.
Still working in stripes, knit 1 row, then rib 3 rows, and cast off in rib.
Join leg and foot seam.

Girl Doll - shoes:

Cut out 4 upper sections and 2 soles from red felt, using the pattern given in the diagram.
Join heel and toe seams.
Sew the lower edge of the upper around the sole.


Boy Doll - head, body, legs, and arms:

Work exactly as for GIRL doll.

Boy Doll - hair:

Using a darning needle and 2 strands of dark brown yarn, work around hair line, then then fill centre thus:
Wind the yarn three times around 2 fingers of your left hand and back stitch these loops to the head. Stitch the next 3 loops close to the previous loops, and continue in this way, covering the head densely.

Boy Doll - features:

Exactly as the GIRL doll.

Boy Doll - jumper:

BACK: With No 9 needles and Blue yarn, cast on 48 stitches.
Work 8 rows in stocking-stitch.
Join in Light Blue yarn, and work 2 rows, then break off Light Blue.
Continue in Blue. ***

Complete the back as for the GIRL doll's jumper, starting from **.

FRONT: Work exactly as for BACK (above) as far as ***.
Then continue to work as for the GIRL's jumper as far as **.

Shape armholes by casting off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next 3 rows.
**

Neck shaping:
Next Row (wrong side facing): p16; turn.
Next Row: k2, k2tog, knit to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 10 stitches remain.
Work 1 row.
Cast off.

Rejoin the yarn to the inner edge of the remaining stitches, and work the other side to match, working k2togtbl, instead of k2tog.

SLEEVES: With No 9 needles and Blue yarn, cast on 40 stitches, and work as for the (Boy's) BACK up to ***.

Continue in stocking stitch, until work measures 2½ inches, ending with a purl row.
To shape the top, cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 22 stitches remain.
Cast off.

NECK INSET:
With No 9 needles and Blue yarn, cast on 3 stitches.
Work 2 rows in stocking stitch.
Working in stripes of 2 rows Light Blue and 2 rows Blue, increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until there are 15 stitches.
Cast off knitwise.

COLLAR:
With No 9 needles and Blue yarn, cast on 36 stitches.
Working 1 stitch knit at each end of ever purl row, work as for the (Boy's) BACK up to ***.
Work 13 rows straight.
Next Row: k1, p11, cast off knitwise the next 12 stitches, purl to the last stitch, k1.

Continue on these stitches only.
Still working the garter stitch edge as set, decrease 1 stitch at each end of the 3rd and every following 4th row until 2 stitches remain.
Knit 3 rows.
K2tog and fasten off.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to inner edge of remaining stitches, and work other side to match.

Join shoulders.
Sew in inset.
Sew press studs to collar to points to fasten at centre front.
Sew on 3 press studs down the back opening.
Set in sleeves.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn under ½ inch hems at lower edge, collar and sleeves and catch stitch in place.

Boy Doll - trousers:

Work as for the GIRL doll's trousers but using Blue yarn, and turning all the hems to the wrong side.

Boy Doll - boots:

Cut out 4 upper sections and 2 soles from white felt, using the pattern given in the diagram.
Cut 4 circles in red felt about the size of a 10p piece, and sew on each side of the heel for decoration, as shown.
Join heel and toe seams of uppers, and sew around sole.
With white thread, work stitching line as shown by broken line.
Pierce eyelet holes and lace with Blue yarn.

Materials

Double knitting yarn in 20g balls:

Girl Doll:
• 6 balls in flesh colour;
• 4 balls in red;
• 4 balls in brown;
• 3 balls navy, and
• 1 ball in lime green.
• One 6-inch square of red felt and scraps of white and black felt for shoes, cherries and features.
• 3 press studs and a waist length of elastic.

Boy Doll:.
• 6 balls in dark blue;
• 4 balls dark brown;
• 1 ball in light blue.
• One 6-inch square of white felt and scraps of red and black felt for boots and features.
• 5 press studs and a waist length of elastic.

• A pair each of Nos 11 (3mm) and 9 (3¾mm) knitting needles
• Stuffing for each doll.

Tension

28sts x 36 rows to 4 inches on No 11 needles.
24sts x 32 rows to 4 inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

Height 24 inches.

Abbreviations

m1: make 1 stitch by picking up the strand of yarn before the next stitch and knit into the back of it
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together
k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops (also known as ssk - "slip, slip, knit")
p2tog: purl 2 sts together
p2togtbl: purl 2 sts together through back loops


A Word
on the Wool.

The original yarn was a courtelle bri-nylon standard double knitting.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


Pattern Diagram

This is the pattern for the felt pieces used for the features, shoes, and boots.
It is mapped on to a grid of 1 inch squares, (subdivided into eighths), originally designed for you to draw it out yourself on to a grid of 1 inch squares. You can download pdf files of printable graph paper from the web - you need 8 lines to the inch.

November 2021

Cuddly Cat Toy

CatToy1.jpg

A simple cuddly toy to go with the gown for bedtime.

Instructions

This is a very simple toy made up of fairly flat ovals, which should not be over-stuffed.

Body (2 pieces)

Using dark colour (B), cast on 12 stitches and work in striped stocking stitch following Chart 1 with stripes as follows:
Work 1 row in B, 1 row in G, 1 row in M, throughout.

(The chart shows casting on 2 stitches at the end of every row, until there are 28 stitches, then increase 1 stitch at each end of the next row [30 sts]; then working 29 rows straight, before starting to decrease 1 stitch at at each end of the next and every alternate row until 14 stitches remain).

Cast off using B.

Work a second side in the same way.

Head (2 pieces)

Using light colour (M), cast on 11 stitches and work in stocking stitch following Chart 2, (which shows increasing 1 stitch at each end of the third and every following alternate row until there are 21 stitches; then working 9 rows straight, before starting to decrease 1 stitch at at each end of the next and every alternate row until 11 stitches remain).

Work a second side in the same way.

Ears (2 pieces)

Using light colour (M), cast on 8 stitches, and work 10 rows straight.
Cast off.

Work a second ear in the same way.

Paws (4 pieces)

Using light colour (M), cast on 10 stitches and work in stocking stitch following Chart 3, (which shows working 6 rows straight, then decreasing 1 stitch at at each end of the next and every alternate row until 4 stitches remain).

Cast off.

Work a further 3 pieces in the same way.

Tail (1 piece)

Using dark colour (B), cast on 12 stitches and work 62 rows in striped stocking stitch as follows:
1 row in B, 1 row in G, 1 row in M, throughout.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Assemble the two faces of the body, the head and the paws. Sew, (right sides together) leaving an opening. Turn right side out, stuff, and sew closed.
Fold the rectangles of the ears in two to form a triangle, and sew on each side of the head.
Sew the head and paws to the body, as shown in the picture.
Sew an 8cm seam in backstitch, as indicated on Chart 1, starting from the bottom and the middle of the body, to indicate trousers.
Fold the tail in two lengthwise (wrong side out), sew the seam, turn right side out, stuff and close; fix it on the top of the back seam of the pants.
Embroider eyes, nose, mouth, and whiskers, in color B as shown in the photo.

Materials

Quick-knit or 5 ply:
1 ball in each of pale blue shade (M) "Forget-Me-Not", dark blue/black (B) "Sloe", and grey (G) "Mouse".

Pair of No 12 (2¾mm or 2½mm) needles which should be pointed at both ends, or circular.

Stuffing.

Tension

25 sts and 34 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch. However, as this is a toy the tension is less important - you just need to be consistent.

Size matters

Makes about a 10 inch toy.

Abbreviations:

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 stitches together (decrease one stitch).
stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A Word on the Wool:

The original yarn was a quick-knit - that is between a DK and a 4ply, either of which could be substituted - the toy would just end up a little larger or smaller.

The original yarn came in 50g balls of 160 metres.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

December 2020

Doll Clothes

DollHatCoat.jpg

A sweet little old-fashioned set for a dolly.

Instructions.

Outfit includes coat and beret in double knitting wool; dress in 3 ply; and vest, pants and socks in 3 ply.

Coat - back

Cast on 48 stitches work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Next Row: purl (this marks the hem- line).

Continue in stocking stitch beginning with a purl row, and decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every 6th row until 38 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 5½ inches from hemline.

Raglan Shaping: Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 16 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Coat - right front

Cast on 28 stitches. Work 4 rows in stocking stitch.

Next Row: purl (this marks the hem- line).
Next Row: p26, k2.
Next Row: Knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows throughout, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the 4th row and every following 6th row until 23 stitches remain, at the same time, when work measures 2 inches from hemline, ending with a purl row at the bordered edge, work buttonhole as follows:

Next Row: k2, cast off 2, knit to end.
Next Row: purl to the last 2 stitches, cast on 2, k2.

Make 2 more buttonholes at the front edge, 1½ inches apart.
Work until front measures 5½ inches from hemline, ending with a knit row.

Raglan Shaping: Making 4th buttonhole 1½ inches from 3rd, cast off 2 stitches at beginning of the next row. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning with of every alternate row until 16 stitches remain, ending with a purl row.

Neck Shaping:
Next Row: Cast off 6 stitches, knit to end.
Continue raglan shaping and decrease 1 stitch at neck edge on the next 4 rows. Continue raglan shaping only until 1 stitch remains. Fasten off.

Coat - left front

As right front, reversing shaping and omitting buttonholes.

Coat - sleeves

Cast on 26 stitches and knit 4 rows.
Continue in stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the first row, until work measures 3 inches.
Shape top as you did for the back raglan until 6 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Coat - collar

Join raglan seams.
Pick up and knit 42 stitches around neck edge, omitting borders.
Knit 4 rows.
Cast off.

Coat - mock pockets

Cast on 10 stitches and knit 2 rows.
Cast Off.

Coat - making up

Press work.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Turn up hem and catch-stitch on wrong side.
Sew on pockets, 4 ins. from lower edge.
Sew on 4 buttons.

Beret

Cast on 68 stitches and knit 4 rows.

Next Row: (k3, increase in next stitch), repeat to end.
Work 3 rows stocking stitch, beginning with a purl row.
Next Row: (k4, increase in next stitch), repeat to end.
Work 6 rows stocking stitch.
Next Row: (p33, increase in next stitch), repeat to end.
Next Row: (k13, k2tog), repeat to end.
Next Row and every alternate row: purl.
Next Row: (k12, k2tog) repeat to end.
Continue to decrease in this way on every alternate row until 28 stitches remain.
Next Row: (k2tog), repeat to end.

Beret - making up

Thread wool through remaining stitches and secure.
Press work.
Join back seam.
Sew button to centre top.

DollDress3.jpg

Dress - back

Cast on 49 stitches and work 6 rows in moss stitch.
Work 6 rows stocking stitch, 2 rows moss stitch
These 8 rows form the pattern.
Repeat the pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every 6th row until 39 stitches remain.

Continue straight until work measures 5½ ins.

Sleeve Shaping. Cast on 9 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Then continue until work measures 8 ins.
Cast off.

Dress - right front

Cast on 27 stitches.
Work 4 rows moss stitch.
Next Row: Pattern 2, wfd, k2tog, pattern to end.
Next Row: Moss stitch.
Continue in pattern as for back, but working 5 stitches at front edge in moss stitch for front border, and working a buttonhole as before on the 1st row of each moss stitch stripe.
At the same time, when 8 rows of pattern have been worked, decrease 1 stitch at the side edge on the next and every following 6th row until 22 stitches remain.
Continue straight until work measures 5½ inches, ending at side edge.

Sleeve Shaping.
Cast on 9 stitches at the beginning of the next row.
Continue until work measures 7 inches, ending at front edge.

Neck Shaping.
Next Row: Moss stitch 5, and slip these 5 stitches on to a safety pin, cast off 4 stitches, pattern to end.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 8 rows.
Pattern 2 rows.
Cast off.

Dress - left front

As right front, reversing shaping and omitting buttonholes.

Dress - neckband

Join shoulder seams.
Slip border stitches from safety pin on to a needle, pick up and knit 39 stitches around neck, pattern 5 border stitches from other safety pin.
Work 4 rows moss stitch, making 10th buttonhole on the 2nd row.
Cast off.

Dress - sleeve border

Pick up and k. 33 stitches along sleeve edge.
Work 3 rows moss stitch.
Cast off.

Dress - making up

Press work.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Sew on buttons.

Vest - back and front alike

With No 10 needles cast on 36 stitches.
Work 4 inches in k2, p2 rib.

Armhole Shaping.
Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.
Pattern 3 rows

Neck Shaping.
Next Row: Rib 6, cast off 14 stitches, pattern to end.
Work 12 rows.
Cast off.
Complete Other side to match.

Vest - making up

Join side and shoulder seams.
With crochet hook join wool to neck edge:
(3 chain, miss ¼ inch, 1dc in edge) all around neck.
Fasten off.

Pants - back and front alike

With No 10 needles cast on 34 stitches and knit 2 rows.
Next Row: (k2, wfd, k2tog); repeat to last 2 stitches, k2.
Knit 2 rows.
Continue in stocking stitch until work measures 3 inches.

Leg Shaping.
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Work 3 rows straight.
Cast Off.

Pants - making up

Press work.
Join crotch and side seams.
Thread elastic through holes at waist and secure.
With crochet hook work border as for neck of vest around leg openings.

Socks

With No 11 needles, cast on 28 stitches

1st row: increase in first stitch, k12, (increase in next stitch) twice, k12, increase in last stitch.
2nd and alternate rows: purl.
3rd row: increase, k14, (increase in next stitch) twice, k14, increase.
5th row: increase, k16, (increase in next stitch) twice, k16, increase.
7th row: increase, k18, (increase in next stitch) twice, k18, increase.
8th row: purl.
Next row: k26, k2tog, turn.
Next row: p9, p2tog, turn.
Next row: k9, k2tog , turn.
Continue decrease 1 stitch each side of centre stitches until 36 stitches remain altogether.
Work 2 inches in stocking stitch over all stitches.
Work 6 rows k2, p2, rib.
Cast off ribwise.

Socks - making up

Press work.
Join back and foot seam.

Materials

Coat and Beret: 3ozs Double Knitting
5 buttons
No 9 (3¾mm) knitting needles

Dress: 1oz 3 ply
10 buttons
No 10 (3¼mm) knitting needles

Vest, Pants and Socks: 2ozs 3 ply
12 inches of elastic
No 10 (3¼mm) and No 11 (3mm) knitting needles
No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

Tension

24 sts to 4 inches on No 9 needles.
[This would be the DK yarn tension]

Size matters

Designed to fit a 20-inch doll.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc:
double crochet remembering that this is UK notation, and in the US this stitch is referred to as single crochet.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together
p2tog:
purl 2 sts together
moss stitch:
repeat k1, p1 on an odd number of stitches so that a previous row's knit stitch is purled and vice versa. (Also known as seed stitch).
wfd: wool forward to making an extra stitch by passing the yarn over the needle when you knit the following stitch. [This also creates an eyelet hole which can be for for decoration or a small buttonhole]

A Word on the Wool.

The pattern is sized for a 20 inch doll which may suit "Our Generation", "American Girl" or vintage Pedigree dolls.

3 ply yarn can be easily found as baby wool in white which would be fine for the vest/pants/socks but for the dress you may be challenged to find more interesting colours.

1 ounce (oz) is approximately 28g.

Disclaimer (well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2017

In like a Lion and out like a Lamb

Lion.jpg Lamb.jpg

So says 17th century weather-watching folklore in respect of March. So here are a couple of delightful toy patterns to herald the change of season.

LION INSTRUCTIONS.

Note that: the lion is knitted with the yarn doubled (2 strands held together).

Front Legs (make 2 mirror image)

Using 2 strands of main colour (M), and 5½mm needles, cast on 19 stitches.
Work 4 rows in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row.

5th row: k4, (k2tog) twice, k3, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k4.
6th row: p3, (p2tog) twice, p1, (p2tog) twice, p3.
Work 6 rows straight.

13th row: k1, m1, k4, m1, k1, m1, k4, m1, k1. [15 sts]
Work 5 rows straight.

19th row: k1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1.
Work 3 rows straight.

23rd row: k1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1.
Purl 1 row.

Cast off 9 stitches, knit to end of row, and leave remaining 10 stitches on a stitch holder.

Work a second leg the same way, omitting the last purl row and working the cast off row on a purl row to reverse the shaping.

Body

Using 2 strands of main colour (M), and 5½mm needles, cast on 44 stitches.
Work 7 rows in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row.

Cast off 12 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for back legs.
Work 3 rows straight.

Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 2 alternate rows.
Purl 1 row.

Repeat the last 2 rows twice. Cut yarn.

Join in Front Legs:
With right side facing knit 10 stitches from top first leg, k26 stitches across body, and knit 10 stitches from top of second leg. [46 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k18, (k2tog) twice, k2, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k18. [42 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k1, m1, k17, k2tog, k2, (sl1, k1, psso), k17, m1, k1.
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k18, k2tog, k2, (sl1, k1, psso), k18. [40 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k1, m1, k16, k2tog, k2, (sl1, k1, psso), k16, m1, k1.
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k15, (k2tog) twice, k2, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k15. [36 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k1, (sl1, k1, psso), k10, (k2tog) twice, k2, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k10, k2tog, k1. [30 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k1, (sl1, k1, psso), k7, (k2tog) twice, k2, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k7, k2tog, k1. [24 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Next row: k7, (k2tog) twice, k2, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k7. [20 sts].
Purl 1 row.

Divide for head and face

1st row: k1, m1, k6, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Work right side of face on these stitches, leaving the other stitches on a holder.
2nd row: p9, m1, k1. Turn. Cast on 4 stitches.
3rd row: k12, k2tog, k1.
Purl 1 row.

5th row: (k1, m1) 6 times, k5, k2tog, k1.
Purl 1 row.

7th row: k4, (m1, k1) twice, k10, k2tog, k1.
Purl 1 row.

9th row: k17, k2tog, k1.
Place marker thread at the beginning of this row and purl 1 row.

11th row: k1, (sl1, k1, psso), knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog,k1.
Purl 1 row.

Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Work 4 rows straight.

Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off remaining 7 stitches.

With right side of work facing, rejoin yarn to remaining 10 stitches on the stitch holder, and work the other side of the head to correspond with the first side, reversing shaping.

To reverse shaping, read rows from end to beginning, or, rejoin yarn with wrong side of work facing and then read knit for purl, and purl for knit.

Front Gusset

Using 2 strands of main colour (M) and 5½mm needles, cast on 6 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row, increasing 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 16 stitches.

Place marker threads and the end of the last row.
Work 8 rows, and place marker threads on the last row.
Work 3 more rows.

Next row: k3, (k2tog) twice, k2, (sl1, k1, psso) twice, k3. [12 sts].
Work 3 rows straight.

Next row: k3, k2tog, k2, sl1, k1, psso, k3. [10 sts].
Work 3 rows straight.

Next row: k2, (k2tog) 3 times, k2. [7 sts].
Place marker threads.
Work 13 rows straight, placing marker threads at the end of the last row.
Work 8 rows straight.

Next row: k2, k3tog, k2. [5 sts].
Work 5 rows straight.

Next row: k1, k3tog, k1. [3 sts].
Work 3 rows straight.

Last row: k3tog, and finish off by drawing yarn through last stitch.

Head Gusset

Using 2 strands of main colour (M) and 5½mm needles, cast on 4 stitches for base of nose.
Work 8 rows in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row.

9th row: k1, m1, knit to the last 2 stitches, m1, k1.
Purl 1 row.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.

15th row: (k1, m1) twice, knit to the last 2 stitches, (m1, k1) twice.
Work 11 rows for top of head.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row until 2 stitches remain. Work 3 rows.

Last row: k2tog, and draw end of yarn through last stitch.

Mane

Using 2 strands of contrast colour (C) and 5½mm needles, cast on 33 stitches.

1st row: knit.
2nd row: k1, * insert right hand needle into next stitch on left hand needle, and make loops by putting yarn 3 times round left hand needle and 2 fingers of left hand; then draw the loops through the stitch on the right hand needle and then slip them back to the left hand needle. Then, knit all the loops together as one stitch; knit the next stitch. Repeat from * to end.
3rd row: knit.
4th row: knitting loops as before: * k1, k1 loop stitch; repeat from * to end.
5th row: Cast off 18, knit to end.
6th row: Work loop row as for 2nd row. Turn. Cast on 18 stitches.
7th row: knit.
8th row: Work loop row as for 4th row.
9th row: knit.
10th row: Work as for 2nd row.
Cast off.

Ears (make 2)

Using 2 strands of main colour (M) and 5½mm needles, cast on 9 stitches.
Knit 6 rows (garter stitch); cast off.
Work the second ear in the same way.

Tail

Using 2 strands of main colour (M) and 5½mm needles, cast on 30 stitches.
Work 7 rows in stocking stitch beginning with a knit row.
Cast off.

Tail tip

Using 2 strands of contrast colour (C) and 5½mm needles, cast on 9 stitches.
Work 6 rows in loop pattern.
Cast off.

To make up

Fold front legs in half and seam along cast-on edges and up leg to cast-off edge. Stuff each section as it is seamed.
Fold back paws in half and seam cast-on edges and cast-off edges to form bottom and top of paw.
Sew cast-on edge of body around shaped edge at start of front gusset.
Sew inner edge of back paws to gusset between first and second marker threads.
Sew cast-off edge of front paws between 3rd and 4th markers on front gusset. Sew body between paws to front gusset and sew either side of top of gusset to body ending before cast-on stitches for face.
Seam face cast-on edges together to form lower jaw, and continue seam up to 5th marker. Pin cast-on edge of head gusset over marker for nose and join either side of head gusset to either side of face having eleven unshaped rows at top of head, and final decrease at division of stitches on back.
Sew ears to each side of head.
Sew mane to top of head, bringing separate ends one to either side around below chin. Fold tail in half and seam.
Sew tail tip around one end of tail and sew other end to base of back. Embroider face and add felt eyes as illustrated.

Materials

4 x 25g balls in main colour (M),
2 x 25g balls in contrast (C).

One pair 5½mm knitting needles.
Stitch holders.

Stuffing.

Small scraps of felt and embroidery cotton for face..

Tension

16sts x 22 rows to 10 centimetres, (4 inches).

Size matters

Height approximately 10 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

garter stitch: every row knit

m1: make 1. Increase 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying between stitch just worked and following stitch, and working into the back of it.

sl1: slip one stitch by passing it between the needles as if you were going to knit, but without knitting into it.

sl1, k1, psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over; also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn specified was Patons Trident Double Knitting, which is used double to achieve a chunky type tension.

Acrylic yarns tend to have a wide colour range, robust qualities, and are reasonably priced, thus can be very suitable for hard working toys.

Robin make a Premium Acrylic available in 25g balls which can be useful for toys.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

LionFace.jpg


LAMB INSTRUCTIONS.

This pretty toy is simply knitted in garter stitch (every row knitted). You use only the basic increasing and decreasing stitches to shape the body.

This shows the shape of the pieces:

LambPieces.jpg

Body (make 2)

With white yarn cast on 28 stitches.

1st row: k1, increase in next stitch, knit to the last 2 stitches, increase in next stitch, k1.
2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows: knit.
Place a marker thread for the front in 1st stitch of next row.
5th row: k1, increase in next stitch, Knit to end.
6th, 7th, and 8th rows: knit.
Repeat 1st-5th rows once more. [34 sts].
14th row: knit.
Repeat the last row 4 times more.
19th row: knit to the the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
20th, 21st, and 22nd rows: knit.
Repeat the last 4 rows once more, then the 19th row again. [31 sts]
Knit 1 row.

Divide for neck:
1st row: k1, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k1, turn.
Leave remaining 19 stitches for back on a stitch holder.
2nd row: knit.
3rd row: knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Knit 9 rows.
13th row: Increase 1 stitch, knit to end of row.
14th row: knit to last stitch, increase 1 in last stitch.
15th row: As 13th row.
16th row: knit.
17th row: Cast on 4 stitches, knit to end.
Knit 7 rows.
25th row: Cast off 5 stitches, knit to end.
26th row: knit
27th row: Cast off 2 stitches, knit to end.
Knit 3 rows.
31st row: Cast off 3 sts, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
32nd row: k1, k2tog, k2.
Cast off remaining 4 stitches.

Rejoin yarn for back to neck edge of remaining 19 stitches from stitch holder, an knit 4 rows.
Next row: knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Cast off remaining stitches. If you are grafting the join, knit and leave on a stitch holder.

Head Gusset

With white cast on 3 stitches.
1st row: increase in the 1st stitch, increase in the 2nd stitch, k1.
Knit 5 rows.
7th row: k1, increase in next stitch, k1, increase in next stitch, k1.
Knit 5 rows.
13th row: k1, increase in next stitch, k3, increase in next stitch, k1.
Knit 5 rows.
19th row: k1, increase in next stitch, k5, increase in next stitch, k1.
Knit 5 rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following alternate row until there are 23 stitches.

Knit 9 rows.
Next row: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1.
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1.
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: k1, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k1.
Knit 7 rows.
Cast off remaining 11 stitches.

Ears (make 2)

With white cast on 9 stitches.
Knit 14 rows.
15th row: k1, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k1.
Knit 3 rows.
19th row: k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1.
20th row: k1, k3tog, k1.
Cast off remaining 3 stitches.

Legs (make 4)

With white cast on 17 stitches.
Knit 24 rows.
25th row: k1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Knit 15 rows.
Break off white.
41st row: With black, k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Purl 1 row.
Knit 1 row.
Purl 1 row.
Next row: k2tog, knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Cast off remaining 11 stitches.


Tail

With white, cast on 12 stitches.
Knit 16 rows.

Next row: k1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Knit 5 rows.
Repeat the last 6 rows once more.

Thread yarn through remaining 8 stitches and draw up tight.
Fold tail in half lengthwise, and using end of thread sew tail seam.

To make up

Seam or graft body pieces together along back.
Sew head gusset by a set by joining cast-off edge of gusset to back stitches, and cast-on edge beneath stitches cast on at front edge, having widest part at top of head.
Seam to either side of head.
Seam together front and back edges of body and underneath, stuffing before the final seam is complete. With black yarn embroider nose and eyes.
Sew top of ears to either side of head.
Fold legs in half lengthwise, seam along cast-off edge and side. Stuff and sew to body.
Sew tail to back with join in centre. To complete lamb, tie a length of coloured ribbon around neck.

Materials

2 x 20g balls in white double knitting and 1 x 20g ball in black.

One pair 3¾mm
(no 9) knitting needles.
Stitch holder.

Stuffing.
Length of ribbon.

Tension

24 sts x 48 rows to 10 centimetres, (4 inches) over garter stitch.

Size matters

Height approximately 10 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

k3tog: knit 3sts together (decrease two stitches).

increase: by knitting into the front and back of the stitch.

garter stitch: every row knit

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn specified was Lister Lee Target Concorde DK.

Acrylic yarns tend to have a wide colour range, robust qualities, and are reasonably priced, thus can be very suitable for hard working toys.

Robin make a Premium Acrylic available in 25g balls which can be useful for toys.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

LambFace.jpg

December 2015

Santa Claus

Santa1.jpg

So is he a "Santa Claus" or is he a "Father Christmas"? I never thought much about this until my friend Louise (an American) suggested there was a difference; in the ensuing discussion, it seems my guess did not gel with her view. I think she told me that Father Christmas is the traditional old chap and that Santa Claus is one in red with the white trim.
Anyway - which ever he is, I'm sure he'll make a nice little seasonal knitted toy.
This example knitted by my friend Jennie, and if you live around Ewell in Surrey in the UK you can find her work for sale at local craft fares .

Instructions.

Note that: the body is knitted with the yarn doubled (2 strands held together), and the clothes are single.

Body

With white yarn (W) and 3mm needles and yarn used double, cast on 20 stitches and work 3½ inches in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl).

Shape shoulders by casting Off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [10 sts].
Work 2 rows straight for neck.

Now increase 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 18 stitches.

Work 14 rows straight for back of head.

Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 8 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Make another piece the same using but changing to pink (C) for the neck and face.

Join the two halves together and stuff firmly.

Arms (Make 2)

With yarn C, cast on 14 stitches, and work 1 inch in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row. Break off C.

Join in W, and continue until work measures 2½ inches.
Cast off.

Fold in half lengthways and join seam, leaving top open for stuffing. Stuff and sew to body.

Legs (Make 2)

With yarn B, cast on 24 stitches, and work 1 inch in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.

Next row: k8, cast off 8, k8 [16 sts]

Work across these 16 stitches for 1 inch, leaving 8 cast-off stitches for toe of boot. Break off B.

Join in yarn W, and continue straight until work measures 3½ in.
Cast off.
Fold in half lengthways and join seams, leaving top open for stuffing. Stuff and sew to body.

Coat (Fronts)

For the left front: with yarn W, cast on 16 stitches, and knit 4 rows. Break off W.

Continue in red (R) and white (W) thus:
1st row: k14 R, k2 W.
2nd row: k2 W, p14 R.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 2½ inches, ending with 2nd row.

Cast on 10 stitches at the beginning of the next row for the sleeve, then work 1 inch straight on these 26 stitches, ending at the neck edge.
Cast off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next row and slip the remaining 19 stitches on a length of wool or stitch holder.

Work the right front to correspond, reversing all shaping.

Coat (Back)

With yarn R, p19 stitches from the from right front, cast on 10 stitches, then p19 from left front.

Continue in stocking stitch for l inch

Cast off 10 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then work 2½ inches, finishing with 4 rows of garter stitch in white (W).

Join side and sleeve seams of coat and fit on body, then join the front edges in white from neck to waist.

Trousers (Make 2)

With yarn W, cast on 30 stitches and k4 rows. Break off W.

Join in yarn R, and work in stocking stitch until piece measures 2½ inches, then increase 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate
row until there are 36 stitches.

Continue straight until work measures 5 inches from the start.
Cast Off.

Join seams and fit on body.

Attach garments to body stitching round neck, wrists, waist of trousers and top of boots.

Hood

With yarn W, cast on 36 stitches, and knit 4 rows.
Break off W.

Join in R, and work straight in stocking stitch until piece measures 3½ inches. Then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 4 stitches remain.
Cast off.

Fold in half lengthways and join seam from point to start of shaping.
Fit hood on the head and catch white border all round face; then stitch
the rest of the hood round the neck.

Embroider features

Taking photo as a guide use blue for eyes and black for eyebrows and nose. Make moustache and beard with loops of white, sewing in position.

Belt

With yarn B, cast on 4 stitches, and work 5 inches in garter stitch, (every row knit). Cast Off.
Sew belt in position around the waist.

Sack (not shown in photo)

With white (or any colour of your choosing), cast on 34 stitches and work 3 inches in stocking stitch. Cast off.
Fold in half, then join side and base.

With double yarn (or make a 2-ply twisted rope) gather up sack and sling round shoulder and under arm.

Materials

4ply fingering yarn:
2 oz red (R), 1 oz white (W), and small amounts of pink (C) and black (B); scrap of blue for eyes.

One pair 3mm
knitting needles.

Stuffing.

Tension

No tension is stated (as it's a toy so only consistency matters) but a classic 4ply knits to a tension of 22 sts x 28 rows to 10 centimetres, (4 inches).

Using the yarn double will produce more like a worsted tension of about 20 sts to 4 inches. However note that this pattern knits the doubled yarn on relatively fine needles to produce a dense fabric so the tension may come out tighter than that.

Size matters

Height 10 inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

garter stitch: every row knit

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn specified was Patons Purple Heather 4ply. Depending on what era you purchased it in, it could be pure wool or a blend.

Acrylic yarns tend to have a wide colour range, robust qualities, and are reasonably priced, thus can be very suitable for hard working toys.

Robin make a Premium Acrylic available in 25g balls which can be useful for toys.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

August 2014

Topsy-Turvy Doll

TopsyTurvy2.jpg

I have a mysterious fascination with this type of doll. I have even gone as far as cutting two moulded porcelain dolls at the soft slip stage and sticking them together to create my own porcelain version. I think that this must have all started by my seeing one in the Worthing Museum when I was a small child even though I cannot precisely recall it. As a child I am not sure I would have been so keen to play with such a doll - I liked realistic dolls rather than novelty items. However, it left a lasting impression on me, and here is knitted version for you to try.

Instructions.

This design has two completely different dolls with different dresses - sometimes you even find Red Riding Hood and the Wolf in topsy-turvy form though I find that a bit horrific. However, I quite like the complete negative effect as I made for my bisque doll - one dress in white with red spots, and the other red with white spots - if that appealed then you could easily adapt this pattern by reversing the spot colour dress colours.

Doll Body Back
(Make one in cream and one in brown)

With 3¼ mm needles and yarn used double, cast on 31 sts. Beginning with a knit row, work 20 rows in stocking stitch.
Cast off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows [15sts].
Work 6 rows in stocking stitch . **

Increase one stitch at each end of the next row and the following 2 alternate rows. Then, increase one stitch at each end of the next 5 rows [31 sts]

Work 26 rows in stocking stitch.

*** Decrease one stitch at each end of the next 5 rows [21 sts]

Next row: (p2tog) 3 times, p9, (p2tog) 3 times. [15 sts]
Next row: (k2tog) twice, k7, (k2tog) twice.
Next row: (p2tog) twice, p3, (p2tog) twice.

Cast off.

Doll Body Front
(Make one in cream and one in brown)

Work as for back to **.

Next row: K5, ml; * k1, ml, rep from * 4 times more; k5 [21 sts]
Next row: Purl
Next row: K17. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p12. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p13. Turn.
Cont thus, working one extra stitch on each row until all stitches are worked. Increase one stitch at each end of the next row.
Purl one row.
Increase one stitch at each end of the next 4 rows [31 sts]
Work 26 rows in stocking stitch.

Complete as for back from *** to end.

Doll Arms
(Make 2 in cream and 2 in brown)

With 3¼ mm needles and yarn used double, cast on 12 stitches. Beginning with a knit row, cont in stocking stitch. Increase one stitch at each end of the 3rd and 5th rows [16 sts].
Purl one row.

7th row: K7; increase in each of next 2 stitches, k 7
8th and every alt row: Purl
9th row: K7, increase in next stitch, k2, increase in next stitch, k7
11th row: K7, increase in next stitch, k4, increase in next stitch, k7
13th row: K7, increase in next stitch, k6, increase in next stitch, k7 [24 sts]
15th row: K8, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k8
17th row: K8, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k8

Work 37 rows.

Cast off.

To Make up the Dolls

With right sides together, join body and head, leaving bottom open.
Turn and stuff firmly.
Join dolls together round waist, putting in more stuffing if needed.
Join arms at sides. Stuff end of hand flat, then stuff remainder.
Stitch across tops, then stitch across shoulder, making middle of arm at shoulder seams - arms should drop both ways.
Tie yarn round wrists, and stitch 3 lines to mark fingers, and down the shaping for thumb.
On cream doll work eyebrows and eye shape in small back-stitch, using brown. Work blue satin stitch for eyes, with a black stitch in the centre.
Mark cheeks using rouge or blusher (or embroider if preferred).
On brown doll use black instead of brown and work in white round the eyes.
Work noses in self-colour satin-stitch, starting at top with small stitches, and getting larger, with 2 black dots for nostrils.
Work mouths in red.

Doll Hair

For cream doll, use single brown yarn.
With 3¾ mm needles cast on 22 stitches.

1st row: Knit.
2nd row: K1; * work loop stitch thus:- insert needle into next stitch knitways; with first finger of left hand under point of right needle wind yarn round finger and needle twice, then round needle once more, draw all loops through stitch and slip them on to left needle, knit together all loops and the stitch and slip off needle together, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: As 1st row.
4th row: As 2nd row.
5th row: As 1st row, increasing one stitch at each end.

Repeat the 2nd to 5th rows twice more, then the 2nd and 3rd rows 3 times [28 sts]
Next row: k1; (loop stitch, k2tog) 9 times.
Cast off.

Join cast-on edge to top of face. Fold cast-off edge and join, then shape hair round face and stitch round face and back of head.

For brown doll, work hair in same way, using black yarn double and 3¾ mm needles.

Doll Dress (with spot pattern)

With 3¾ mm Twin Pin (circular needle) and red (R), cast on 202 stitches. Knit 5 rows, then purl one row.
Join in white (W) and continue in stocking stitch, working in pattern thus:-
1st row: Knit 4R, * 2W, 6R, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, 2W, 4R.
2nd row: Purl 3R, 4W, * 4R, 4W, rep from * to lastitch 3 stitches, 3R.
3rd row: Knit 3R, 4W, * 4R, 4W, rep from * to lastitch 3 stitches, 3R.
4th row: Purl 4R, * 2W, 6R, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, 2W, 4R.
5th to 8th row: Work in R.
9th row:  * Knit 2W, 6R, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, 2W.
10th row: Purl 3W, 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3W.
11th row: Knit 3W, 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3W.
12th row: * Purl 2W, 6R, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, 2W.
13th to 16th row: Work in R.

Repeat these 16 rows 4 times more, then first 14 rows again.

Next row(continue in red): K1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, rep from * to end [68 sts]
Change to 3¼ mm needles. Knit 4 rows. Cast off.

Spot Dress Sleeves (both alike)

With 3¼ mm needles and R, cast on 22 stitches. Knit 4 rows.
Join in white (W). Change to 3¾ mm needles.
Next row: With W, knit twice into every stitch [44 sts]
Beginning with purl row, work 3 rows stocking stitch.

Now start pattern rows:-

1st row: Knit 1W, 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to last stitch, 1W
2nd row: Purl 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to end
3rd row: Knit 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to end
4th row: Purl 1W, 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to last stitch, 1W
5th to 8th row: Work in white in stocking stitch.
9th row: Knit 5W, * 2R, 6W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, 2A, 5B
10th row: Purl 4W,, * 4R, 4W, repeat from * to end
11th row: Knit 4W,, * 4R, 4W, repeat from * to end
12th row: Purl 5W, * 2R, 6W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, 2A, 5B
13th to 16th row: Work in white in stocking stitch.

Repeat the 16 rows of pattern once more. Break off red and continue in white only.
Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Leave remaining 34 stitches on a spare needle.

Spot Dress Bodice

With 3¾ mm needles and W, cast on 82 stitches. Knit 4 rows.
Join in R and continue in stocking stitch, with garter stitch border, thus:

5th row: Knit 2W, yfd, k2togW, 4W, 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to lastitch 8 stitches, 8W.
6th row:-Knit 5W, then purl 2W, 4R, * 4W, 4R, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, purl 2W, knit 5W.
7th row: Knit 7W, 4R, * 4W, 4W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, knit 7W.
8th row: K5W, then purl 3W, 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, purl 3W, knit 5W
9th to 12th row: - With white, work in stocking stitch.
13th row: Knit 2W, yfd, k2togW, 1W, 1R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 6W, 1R, 5W.
14th row: Knit 5W, then purl 2R, 4W * 4R, 4W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, purl 2R, knit 5W
15th row: Knit 5W, 2R, 4W, * 4R, 4W, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, 2R, 5W
16th row:-Knit 5 B, then purl 1R, 6W, 2R, 3W, with W cast off next 10 stitches, weaving R loosely across stitches; then with 1 white stitch on needle after casting off, purl 2R, * 6W, 2R, repeat from * twice more, purl 1W, cast off 10 sts as before, purl 3W including stitch on needle, 2R, 6W, 1R, knit 5W. Break off red.
Leave stitches on spare needle.

Spot Dress Yoke (all in white)

With right side of bodice facing, using 3¾ mm needles and using white yarn, knit 17 stitches from first side of back, (k2tog) 17 times across top of sleeve, k28 across front of bodice, (k2tog) 17 times across top of second sleeve, k17 across second side of back [96 sts]

1st row (wrong side facing): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
2nd row: Knit
3rd and every alternate row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
4th row: K2, yfd, k2tog, k7, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, * k10, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, k11 [84 sts]
6th row: Knit
8th row: K10, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k8; repeat from * to last 14 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k10
10th row: K9, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k6; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k9
12th row: K8, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k4; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k8 [48 sts]
13th row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.

Break off white and work last rows in red.
14th row: In red (R) k2, yfd, k2tog, knit to end.
Knit 4 rows.
Cast off.

Second Doll Dress (with stripe pattern)

With 3¾ mm Twin Pin (circular needle) and lilac (L), cast on 202 stitches. Knit 5 rows.

Beginning with a purl row, work 3 rows stocking stitch.
Continue in stocking stitch, joining in colours as required:

1st and 2nd rows: work in white (W)
3rd and 4th rows: work in claret (C)
5th and 6th rows: work in white (W)
7th row: Knit 3W, * 2R, 2W, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3R
8th row: Purl 3R, * 2W, 2R, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3W
8th row: Knit 3R, * 2W, 2R, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3W
7th row: Purl 3W, * 2R, 2W, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, 3R
11th to 16th row: As 1st to 6th rows.
17th to 20th rows: work in lilac (L)
21st and 22nd rows: work in claret (C)
23rd to 26th rows: work in lilac (L)

Rep these 26 rows twice more, then rep the 1st to 16th rows again.

Continue with lilac (L) only, breaking off other colours.

Next row(continue in lilac): K1, * sl1, k2tog, psso, rep from * to end [68 sts]
Change to 3¼ mm needles. Knit 4 rows. Cast off.

Stripe Dress Sleeves (both alike)

With 3¼ mm needles and lilac (L), cast on 23 stitches. Knit 4 rows.
Change to 3¾ mm needles.
Next row: With W, knit twice into every stitch [46 sts]
Purl one row.

Work 1st to 16th rows of skirt pattern; decrease one stitch at each end of the last row [44 sts].

Break off colours, and continue working in lilac (L) only.
Work 20 rows stocking stitch.
Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Leave the remaining 34 sts on a spare needle.

Stripe Dress Bodice

With 3¾ mm needles and lilac (L), cast on 82 stitches. Knit 4 rows.

Continue using lilac only and work exactly as you did for the first dress, keeping the garter stitch border correct.

Leave stitches on spare needle.

Stripe Dress Yoke (all in lilac)

With right side of bodice facing, using 3¾ mm needles and using lilac yarn, knit 17 stitches from first side of back, (k2tog) 17 times across top of sleeve, k28 across front of bodice, (k2tog) 17 times across top of second sleeve, k17 across second side of back [96 sts]

Work the first 7 rows as for the first dress:

1st row (wrong side facing): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
2nd row: Knit
3rd and every alternate row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
4th row: K2, yfd, k2tog, k7, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, * k10, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog; repeat from * to last 11 stitches, k11 [84 sts]
5th row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
6th row: Knit
7th row: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.

Join in white:
8th row (in white): K10, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k8; repeat from * to last 14 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k10
9th row (in white): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
Join in claret:
10th row (in claret): K9, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k6; repeat from * to last 13 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k9
11th row (in claret): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.
Break off claret and continue in white for 2 rows:
12th row (in white): K8, * sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k4; repeat from * to last 12 stitches, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k8 [48 sts]
13th row (in white): Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.

Break off white and work last rows in lilac only:
14th row: In red (R) k2, yfd, k2tog, knit to end.

K 4 rows. Cast off.

Making Up the Dresses

Join sleeves of spot dress up to cast-off edges.
Join cast-off edges to cast-off edges on bodice.
Finish off ends.
Sew on buttons to match buttonholes.
Join bottom of bodice to waist of doll.

Make top of stripe dress the same and join at waist, meeting other top.

Join back seams of skirts.
Put both skirts on to doll and join to tops at waistline.

Starting at back seam, with crochet hook and white, work * 1 dc through bottom edges of dresses, working through both skirts at once, miss 1 stitch, 3 tr into next st. miss 1 st, rep from * to end.

Fasten off.

Materials

Robin Reward Double Knitting:
Dolls: 3 x 50g brown, 2 x 50g cream, 1 x 50g black and small amounts of blue and white for eyes and red for mouths.
Dresses: 3 x 50g in each of white and red, 2 x 50g in lilac, and 1 x 50g in claret.

8 small buttons.


One pair each 3¼mm and 3¾ mm
knitting needles.

3¾ mm Twin-Pin, 60 cm, (24 inches), long.

Medium crochet hook.

Stuffing.

Tension

22 sts x 28 rows to 10 centimetres, (4 inches), measured over stocking stitch, using 3¾ mm needles.

Size matters

About 54 cm,
(21 inches), high.

Abbreviations

m1:- make a stitch by picking up loop lying before next stitch and work into back of it.
yfd: yarn forward; bring the yarn to the front of the work and pass it over the needle when knitting the next stitch; makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.
sl1: slip 1 stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch over.
k2tog or p2tog: knit or purl 2 sts together (decrease one stitch).

dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet

Find instructions for crochet stitches >>here<<

[Editor's note: Remember these are English crochet instructions where double crochet is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A Word on the Wool

Robin Reward was a nylon budget double knitting.

You can buy a Robin double knitting today, 100% acrylic in 100g balls at very low cost. Its wide colour range, robust qualities, and reasonable price could make it very suitable for hard working toys.
Robin Premium Acrylic is also available in 25g balls which is useful for making toys.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


My porcelain version of a topsy turvy doll.

TopsyTurvy3.jpg

June 2013

French Poodle

FrenchPoodle.jpg

How very 1950s! How very French!.
How could I resist?
At first glance I assumed this was the more usual toilet roll cover (because nobody wants their spare toilet rolls exposed to the world do they?) - but no! It is a "bottle" cover. How much better to have a knitted poodle gracing the dining table rather than leaving your Castle Lafite Rothschild labels tastelessly speaking for themselves. [Actually I think it looks like it's designed for the sherry bottle - perhaps to hide the little nip you need to get through the housework.]

Alternatively you can wimp out and knit it as a toy - provided your child is also into retro 1950s toys, (did I mention that as a kid my favourite toy was a poodle ? ... he wasn't knitted though ..... Pom Pom .... ‹closes eyes in reminiscence›)

[Please note: This has not been knitted up to test the pattern but is provided as per the original. The shapes are very simple and the main effort is in the making up.]

Instructions.

The poodle is knitted mainly in garter stitch with some eyelet rows to carry elastic and drawstring. I think the two methods of assembly have not been quite thought through in the original pattern, so you need to use your common sense and refer to the picture when sewing it together.

Body

With No 8 needles cast on 49 stitches, and knit 2 rows.

Next row: * k1, wf, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Continue in garter stitch (every row knit) until work measures 7½ inches from the beginning.

Next row: * k5, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [42 sts]
Knit 3 rows.

Next row: * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [35 sts]
Knit 3 rows.

Next row: * k3, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [28 sts]
Knit 3 rows.

Next row: * k2, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [21 sts]
Knit 1 rows.

Next row: K1; * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [11 sts]

Thread wool through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely. [Editor's note: I think there is a bit of an implied error here - this is the neck, so only draw up to the degree that the neck of the bottle will fit...]

Head

Cast on 49 stitches, and knit 3 rows.

Next row: * k5, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [42 sts]
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: * k4, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [35 sts]
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: * k3, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [28 sts]

Next row: * k1, wf, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Continue without any shaping for 3 inches.

Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [14 sts]
Next row: Knit.
Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [7 sts]

Thread wool through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Nose

Cast on 12 stitches, and work 1½ inches in garter stitch.

Next row: * k1, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [8 sts]
Next row: Knit.
Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [4 sts]

Thread wool through remaining stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Pom-Poms

Make 8 pom-poms, 2½ inches in diameter.
Make 2 pom-poms, 1¾ inches in diameter.

Cut 2 pieces of cardboard the diameter of the finished pom-pom; cut a ½ inch diameter hole in the centre. Wind wool over the rings until the centre hole is filled. With a sharp pair of scissors, cut through the wool at the outer edge. With double wool, bind round the centre of the pom-pom between the two pieces of cardboard; tie a knot and fasten off securely. Remove the cardboard. Fluff out and trim.

To Make Up

Join back seam.
Thread elastic through the holes in the bottle cover base and join securely.
Sew one large pom-pom to the back seam at the bottom edge (tail), and sew 4 large pom-poms on the front to represent the legs.
Using small pieces of cotton wool, stuff the nose and sew securely to the front of the head, ½ inch from the holes.
[Editor's note: I think there is a bit of nose-sewing here that is not fully described; so extemporise.]
Embroider the mouth and sew on the 2 buttons to represent the eyes.
Sew a large pom-pom to each side of the face, and on on top of the head. Sew the 2 smaller pom-poms between these (see photo).

Take 4 strands of light coloured wool and thread through holes at neck and secure with a small knot. Tie in a bow.
[Editor's note: This seems to be pictured as being covered with a ribbon tied in a bow - so again I am guessing a little something missing where you need to extemporise. When you draw up the neck remember it has to be able to fit round the neck of the bottle. The head is not stuffed - it is tubular and filled by the neck of the bottle.]

To Make Up the Poodle as a Toy

Follow the instructions for the Bottle Cover.

[Editor's note: After this there are a few inconsistencies which you need to work out as you go.]

Assemble as the bottle cover.

Insert a circle of cardboard 3 inches in diameter into the bottom of the body.
[Editor's note: As far as I can tell, the cardboard will be exposed at the bottom of the toy; you might want to knit a piece of use fabric to cover it before putting in place.]

Make a roll of stuffing 13 inches long and insert this into the base firmly, leaving excess sticking out for the head to fit over.
Run a strong thread through the top edge of the body (neck) and pull up tightly around the excess stuffing, and tie off.

Fluff out the stuffing slightly and fit head over it; pull down and stitch over body.
[Editor's note: As far as I can tell, this excess stuffing sticking out of the neck is pushed up into the head, where the neck of the bottle would have been in the bottle-cover version.]

Materials

4 ozs. Bri-Nylon Double Knitting, plus a short length of contrast wool.

6 inches (15cm) of narrow elastic.

A pair each of No
8 (4mm) "Aero" needles.

2 buttons.

For the toy: cardboard for the base and toy stuffing.

Tension

No tension is given but a normal tension for standard DK on No 8 needles is 22sts x 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

No size is given but presumably it fits "a bottle".

Abbreviations

wf: "wool forward": make a stitch by bringing the wool to the front of the work and then passing the yarn over the needle when you make the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.


How to make pom-poms.



This is a different method which I ran across while looking for the simple tutorial above. It's less relevent for making our Poodle maybe but good if you want to make a load of these for a scarf or a necklace (ok - bit dated perhaps - think of your own project!)

November 2010

Outfit for a saucy sailor

SailorDoll.jpg

A cute little 1940's outfit for sailor doll. Sized to fit a 16 inch doll and shown on a felt doll, (Lenci I think), with the characteristically modest expression. Quite delightful.

Instructions.

Patterns for the outfit as shown, plus the option of a skirt instead of trousers if preferred.

Beret:

With blue wool and crochet hook, make 4 ch, and join into ring with slip-stitch, then work 8 double crochet into ring.

1st Round: 2 ch, then 2 dc on each stitch (join with slip stitch to top of 2 ch at end of each round).
2nd Round: 2 ch, * 2 dc on first stitch, 1 dc on next, repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: 2 ch, * 2 dc on first stitch, 1 dc on each of next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end.
4th Round: 2 ch, * 2 dc on first stitch, 1 dc on each of next 3 stitches, repeat from * to end.
5th Round: 2 ch, * 2 dc on first ch, 1 dc on each of the next 4 stitches, repeat from * to end.

Continue in this manner, working an extra stitch between increasings each time until work measures 5½ inches across at widest part (17 rounds). Now decrease thus:-

1st Round: 2 ch, * miss 1 stitch, 17 dc, repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: 2 ch, * miss 1 stitch, 16 dc, repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: 2 ch, * miss 1 stitch, 15 dc, repeat from * to end. Continue thus, decreasing 1 stitch in each section in every row, until 7 stitches remain.
Next Round: 1 dc on each stitch all round. Fasten off.

Jumper:

FRONT: With white wool and No 12 needles, cast on 36 stitches and work ½ inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and continue in stocking-stitch until work measures 2 inches. Shape armholes by casting off 2 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of the next 2 rows.
Work straight until piece measures 3½ inches, then shape neck.
Next Row: k11, cast off 6 loosely, knit to end. Continue on last 11 stitches only, decreasing at neck edge on every row until 7 remain.
Work 4 rows straight, then cast off.
Work the other 11 stitches to correspond reversing the shaping.

BACK: Work exactly as for front to completion of armhole shapings, then continue straight until length equals that of front to shoulders. Cast off straight across.

SLEEVES: With blue wool and No 12 needles, cast on 22 stitches and work ½ inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and white wool, and continue in stocking stitch, increasing at each end of 5th and every following 6th row until there are 30 stitches on the needle. Work straight until sleeve measures 3½ inches, then shape the top by casting off 3 at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every row until 16 remain. Cast off loosely.

COLLAR: With No 10 needles and blue wool, cast on 38 stitches and knit 8 rows garter stitch, (every row knit), slipping the first stitch of each row.
Now continue in stocking stitch with a border of 4 garter stitches at each side until work measures 2 inches.
Next Row: k12, cast off 14 stitches loosely, knit to end.
Work on the last 12 sts only, keeping the garter stitch border at the outer edge, and decreasing at the inside (neck) edge on every alternate row until 9 sts remain; now decrease on every 3rd row until 4sts remain. Continue in garter stitch for ½ inch, then cast off.

Work the remaining 12 stitches to correspond reversing the shaping.

Skirt

With No 10 needles and blue wool, cast on 183 stitches.

1st Row: k3, * p8, k5, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, p. 8, k. 3.
2nd Row: In rib, as set out in row 1, working k8, p5.

Repeat these 2 rows for 1 inch, then decrease as follows:-

Next Row: (right side facing): k3, * p2tog, p4, p2tog, k5, repeat from *, ending k3.
Next Row: Rib.
Continue in p6, k5 rib until work measures 2 inches from start, then decrease again.

Next Row: k3, * p2tog, p2, p2tog, k5, repeat from *, ending k3.
Next Row: Rib. Continue in p4, k5 rib until work measures 2¾ inches, then decrease again.

Next Row: k. 3, * (p2tog) twice, k5, repeat from *, ending k3.
Next Row:
Rib. Continue in p2, k5 rib until work measures 3½ inches.

Next Row: k. 3, * p2tog, k5, repeat from *, ending k3.
Next Row:
Rib. Work 3 more rows in p1, k5 rib.
Next Row:
p3, * p2tog, p4, repeat from *, ending p2.

Change to No 12 needles and work in k1, p1 rib until work measures 4½ inches, then cast off in rib.

Trousers (front and back alike)

With No 10 needles and blue wool, cast on 23 stitches for right leg, and work 6 rows garter stitch. Change to stocking stitch and decrease at beginning of every following 8th row (outside edge) until 18 stitches remain.
Work straight until piece measures 6 inches from start, ending with a purl row, then leave on a spare needle.
Make another piece to correspond for left leg, reversing shapings, then join the legs together by putting both sets of sts on one needle and working across all 36 stitches.

[ Editor's note: Make sure you have right side facing you for both legs and that they are arranged so that the shapings are on the outside edges.]

Continue in stocking stitch for another 2½ inches, then change to No 12 needles and work 3 rows in k1, p1 rib.

Next Row: (make holes for elastic): rib 2, * wfwd, k2tog, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, rib 2.
Rib 2 more rows, then cast off in rib.

Work a second piece in the same way.

To make up

Press all pieces lightly with a damp cloth.
Jumper: Catch shoulder seams together at armhole edges, then insert sleeves flat; join side and sleeve seams in one. Fasten each shoulder with a press-stud, then stitch centre of collar along back of neck. Make a blue crochet chain of 8 loops and stitch to front, then slip ends of collar through it.
Skirt: Join seam, then run 3 rounds of shirring elastic or similar through inside of waist ribbing.
Trousers: Join leg and side seams, then thread elastic through holes at waist.
Beret: Make a white pom-pom and stitch to centre of crown.

Sew in all ends.

Materials

Original yarn requirements:
3ozs Patons Rose, or White Heather, fingering 3 ply.
[2ozs bright blue and 1oz white shade, makes both skirt and trousers - if only one is required then 1 oz blue is sufficient.]

A pair each of No 10 (3¼mm) and No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
A No 13 (2¼mm) crochet hook.
Two press-studs.
Fine thread elastic for skirt, and narrow flat elastic for trousers.

Tension

30 sts to 4 inches on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Designed to fit a 16-inch doll.
Jumper
: Width all round, 9½ inches.
Skirt:
Length 4½ inches.
Trousers
:
Length, 9 inches.
Beret: All round inside edge, 11 inches.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
dc: double crochet remembering that this is UK notation, and in the US this stitch is referred to as single crochet.

k2tog: knit 2 sts together
p2tog: purl 2 sts together
wfwd: wool forward to making an extra stitch

A Word
on the Wool.

The pattern is sized for a 16 inch doll and needs a fine yarn that knits to a tension of 30 sts to 4 inches on 3¼mm needles.

You will have difficulty finding these fine yarns in a good range of colours. Some possibilities might be: you might look at machine knitting yarns on cones though these are usually sold in larger quantities; you might consider knitting in a crochet cotton to obtain the required gauge; you might consider trying a fine 4 ply and experimenting with finer needles to obtain the right gauge - or accept the outfit to fit a larger doll.

Be wary of the original quantities suggested - you will almost always need more than stated.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

March 2009

Easter Bunny

EasterBunny.jpg

"Who could resist this adorable dressed bunny?"
Well, I for one can resist the dressed part. I am not very fond of dressed animals (even stuffed ones). However, the dress is very pretty, and it would tone down the effect of the rather strong pink colour I have chosen for the rabbit. The Phildar yarn makes for a really soft effect; the pink is discontinued but there is a white, which I think would be very cute.
"So cuddly, a small child would love her at once. Very easily and quickly knitted in garter stitch throughout."

Instructions:

Bunny is worked throughout on No 8 needles and garter stitch (ever row knit). When making up, all seams are joined on the right side.

Body (work two pieces alike):
Cast on 11 sts using No 8 needles and chunky yarn.

1st row: Knit
2nd row: Knit twice in first stitch; knit to last st, and knit twice in last st [13 sts]
3rd row: Knit
4th row: as second row [15 sts]
Knit the next 6 rows.
11th row: as second row [17 sts]
Knit the next 11 rows.
23rd row: K2 tog; knit to last 2 sts, and k2tog. [15 sts]
Knit the next 3 rows.
27th-29th rows: Decrease 1 st at each end of the next 3 rows [9 sts]
Cast off 9 sts. The cast off edge is the neck edge.

Base:
Cast on 5 sts.

1st row: Knit
2nd row: Knit twice in first stitch; knit to last st, and knit twice in last st [7 sts]
3rd row: Knit
4th row: as second row [9 sts]
Knit the next 2 rows.
7th row: K2 tog; knit to last 2 sts, and k2tog. [7 sts]
8th row: Knit
9th row: as 7th row. [5 sts]
10th row: Knit
Cast off 5 sts.

Making up the body:
Join the sides of the body, then insert the base, sewing it onto the cast on edges of the two body pieces.
Stuff firmly and gather up neck opening. (Try and stuff the body more firmly than the head so it has more weight, to give the toy more stability).

Front Legs (work four pieces alike):
**
Cast on 11 sts. Knit the next 2 rows.

3rd row: Knit twice in first stitch; knit to last st, and knit twice in last st [13 sts]
Knit the next 4 rows.
8th row: K2 tog; knit to last 2 sts, and k2tog. [11 sts]
Knit the next 7 rows.
**
16th-17th rows: Decrease 1 st at each end of the next 2 rows [7 sts]
Cast off 7sts. The cast off edge is where the leg joins the body.

Making up the front legs:
Join each pair, leaving the cast off edges open.
Stuff firmly and sew up opening, then join this end to the body.
Run a gathering thread around the wrists, and mark claws with black straight stitches.

Back Legs (work four pieces alike):
Work as for front legs from ** to **.
Knit 5 more rows.
21st-22nd rows: Decrease 1 st at each end of the next 2 rows [7 sts]
Cast off 7sts. The cast off edge is where the leg joins the body.

Making up the back legs:
Stuff and make up as for the front legs and sew to body.

Tail (work 2 pieces alike):
[Editor's note: I did not use this tail. I made a tail with a white woollen pom-pom (see the picture) - why wouldn't you? I thought that, in the fable that is childhood, rabbits were renowned for their powder-puff tails. However, I think my tail turned out a wee bit large].
Cast on 5 sts.
Knit one row.
Increase 1 st at each end of the next 3 rows.
Knit 6 rows.
Decrease 1 st at each end of the next 3 rows.
Cast off 5 sts.

Making up the tail:
Join the two halves together, leaving an opening for stuffing.
Stuff and sew up opening. Join to body.

Head (work 2 pieces alike):
Cast on 11 sts. Knit the next 6 rows.
[Editor's note: The head pieces are not symmetrical. Mark the side (just use a safety pin, a stitch marker or a piece of coloured thread) where most of the increasing and decreasing happens - this is the nose and will help you match it up when you join the pieces. Also check that you are doing this shaping all on the same side of the piece].

*
7th row: Knit twice in first stitch; knit to end [12 sts]
8th row: Knit to last st, and knit twice in last st [13 sts]
9th row: Knit twice in first stitch; knit to last st, and knit twice in last st [15 sts]
10th row: Knit to last st, and knit twice in last st [16 sts]
*
Repeat from from * to * once more.

Knit the next 8 rows.
23rd row: K2tog; knit to end [15 sts]
24th row: Knit to last 2 sts; k2tog [14 sts]
25th row: K2 tog; knit to last 2 sts, and k2tog. [12 sts]
26th row: Knit to last 2 sts; k2tog [11 sts]
27th row: K2tog; knit to end [10 sts]
28th row: Knit to last 2 sts; k2tog [9 sts]
29th row: K2 tog; knit to last 2 sts, and k2tog. [7 sts]
30th row: Knit to last 2 sts; k2tog [6 sts]
31st row: K2tog; knit to end [5 sts]
32nd row: K2 tog; knit to last 2 sts, and k2tog. [3 sts]

Cast off 3 sts.

Making up the head:
Join the two halves together, leaving the cast on edges open.
Stuff firmly, shaping the dome of the head to look like a bunny.

Features (embroidered):
Nose: black satin stitch.
Mouth: black vertical and horizontal straight stitches.
Whiskers: long black straight stitches.
Eyes: White, blue, and black satin stitch, and outlined in black straight stitches.
Lashes: Four vertical straight stitches in black.
Eyebrows: black straight stitches.

Ears (work 2 alike):
[Editor's note: I worked both ears at once using two balls of wool (as I did for the head). This was because I found it easy to lose track of how many rows I had knitted with this fluffy yarn. A row here or there makes little difference to a toy, but you want the ears etc to be the same size.]
Cast on 3 sts in main colour on No 8 needles.
1st-3rd rows: Knit
4th row: Knit twice in first stitch; knit to last st, and knit twice in last st [5 sts].

Repeat these 4 rows 5 times more until there are 15 sts.

Knit the next 12 rows.

37th row: K2 tog; knit to last 2 sts, and k2tog. [13 sts]
38th row: Knit
39th row: K2 tog; knit to last 2 sts, and k2tog. [11 sts]

Cast off 11 (this is the edge sewn to the head).

Ears Linings (work 2 alike):
Cast on 4 sts in finer yarn contrast for ears on No 11 needles.
1st-3rd rows: Knit
4th row: Knit twice in first stitch; knit to last st, and knit twice in last st [6 sts].

Repeat these 4 rows 7 times more until there are 20 sts.
Knit the next 20 rows.
[Editor's note: As I worked the linings I kept comparing them to the ears to make sure they were coming out the right size. The result was that for the wool I had chosen I increased to 20 sts but then knitted 25 rows to match the length of the ears. You may note the ears are pretty large - but the head is also proportionally large, so I thought they looked right.]

53rd row: K2 tog; knit to last 2 sts, and k2tog. [18 sts]
Knit 3 rows.
54th row: K2 tog; knit to last 2 sts, and k2tog. [16 sts]
Knit 3 rows.
55th row: K2 tog; knit to last 2 sts, and k2tog. [14 sts]
Cast off tightly.

Making up the ears:
Join ears and linings together. Fold wide end of ears in half, with lining inside, and sew to the head.

Materials

Original: 3 x 2oz hanks of Big Ben Knitting in Oystershell (main colour);
2ozs turquoise, and 1oz pink double knitting.
Scraps of black, royal blue, and white for features.

Example shown is knitted in 2 x 50g ball Phildar "Neige" (65 yds/60m per 50g ball), colour Oeillet (0013 discontinued).
Ear linings and tail in 25g ball of baby quick-knit (a fine double knitting).

One pair each of No. 8 (4mm) and No 11 (3 mm) needles.

Tension

Big Ben was a chunky wool and worked to a tension of approx. 14sts and 18rows to 4 inches on No 3 (6½mm) needles in stocking stitch.

The Phildar Neige tension is 11sts and 18 rows to 4 inches on No 5 (5½mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

Original instructions and yarn made a 12½ inch rabbit (including ears).

A word on the wool

Big Ben is a chunky wool similar in gauge to the Phildar I used but knits up very differently on the smaller needles.
The Phildar is rather like eyelash but softer and fluffier - and entirely acrylic. I can strongly recommend using a fluffy yarn like this as it is so forgiving in hiding the sewing up on a toy.
The ear linings are worked in a finer yarn.

I used a lurid pink for the rabbit - but wouldn't she be nice in white with pink ear linings?

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Bunny Clothes

I chose just to put a ribbon on the bunny. You could make the knitted tie instead or go for the whole dressed bunny look. The dress is pretty and allows you to see the cute little tail.
Clothes and tie are knitted in the finer (DK) yarn on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Neck tie:
Cast on 6 sts on No 11 needles.
Knit 19 inches (or as much as you need) and cast off.
Tie around neck with a bow at the front.

Dress:
Cast on 112 sts [Editor's note: Perhaps you can see now why I was less keen to make the little dress...].
on No 11 needles.
Knit 24 rows.
Next row: Cast off 47; knit 18 sts; cast off remaining 47.
Break yarn.

Rejoin yarn to centre 18 sts, and knit 14 rows.
[Editor's note: This is the pinafore part of the dress].

Next row: Knit 4; cast off 10; knit last 4 sts.
[Editor's note: The two sets of 4 sts are the beginnings of the straps].

Continue to work on the last 4 sts and knit 25 rows.
Next row: K2tog twice and fasten off
Work remaining 4 sts into a strap to match.
Sew up back seam on the skirt.

Dress Frills:
With No 11 needles and same yarn as dress, cast on 6 sts, and knit 1 row.
*Next row: K4, then turn and knit back.
Knit 2 rows across all 6 sts.*
Repeat from * to * until frill fits all around hem of dress.
Join short ends and sew to dress.

Make another frill the same and sew in place half an inch above the first frill.

Put dress on bunny and gather up waist edge to fit.
Sew straps into position on back of dress using French Knots.

September 2007

Friendly Tortoise

tortoise.jpg

I do enjoy unusual knitted toys - and I had a succession of pet tortoises as a child (when it was legal...) - so this seems a natural choice. I am very pleased with the way he worked out, and he was not as fiddly to make as I had expected; probably about 2 evenings work in all.

Instructions

The tortoise is knitted in garter stitch (every row knit) throughout.

Shell

Cast on 11 stitches, and knit 1 row.
Then increase 1 st (work into the front and back of the stitch) at each end of the next and every alternate row until there are 23 sts.

[Editor's note: To increase, I work into the front and back of the first st, knit to the last two sts, then work into the front and back of the next st, then knit the last st. This avoids a stepped effect at the end of the row. If you increase in a different way - for example, picking up the loop between sts - then you may not have this problem. Make sure you know how the pattern instuctions intend you to work an increase by looking at the abbreviations. There is usually an implied difference between "increase in the next st" and "make 1".]

Knit 32 rows straight, then decrease 1 st at each end of the next and every alternate row until there are 11 sts remaining.
Cast off.

Make another piece the same.

[Editor's note: I embroidered the top half of the shell before sewing up. The tension of the embroidery encouraged the shell-shape of the piece.]

Join the two halves together leaving an opening for stuffing. Stuff firmly and sew up opening.

Embroidery on top half: outer circles in light brown chain-stitch with smaller dark brown circles inside.
See photograph.

[Editor's note: I am not very good at free-form embroidery, so was a bit worried about this - but it worked out OK. You can see that what I did was very lop-sided, but despite that it looks fine I think...]

Head

Start at neck edge and cast on 10 sts.
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: K2tog., knit to end.

Next row: Knit to the last 2 sts; inc in next st, k1.
Next row: Knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more.

Next row: Inc in the first st; knit to the last 2 sts; inc in next st, k1. [15 sts].

Knit 5 rows.

Next row: K2tog; knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.
Next row: Knit.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more. [9 sts].

Next row: K2tog.; knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.
Cast off 7 sts.

Make another piece the same. Sew halves together leaving neck end open for stuffing.
Stuff firmly to shape with seam at centre of head and face. Sew open end of neck to one end of shell.

Features: Eyes - black and white straight stitches; mouth - long black straight stitch.

Front feet

Cast on 4 sts.
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: Inc in the first st; knit to the last 2 sts; inc in next st, k1.
Repeat the last 4 rows once more. [8 sts].
Knit 3 rows.

Shape thus: Next row: k2, turn, k back;
Next row: k3, turn, k back; Next row: k4, turn, k back;
Next row: k5, turn, k back; Next row: k6, turn, k back.
Knit 2 rows over all sts.

Next row: Inc in the first st; knit to the last 2 sts; inc in next st, k1.
Knit 4 rows.
Next row: Inc in the first st; knit to the last 2 sts; inc in next st, k1. [12 sts]
Knit 3 rows.

Now dec. 1st at each end of the next 3 rows.
Cast off remaining 6 sts.

Make 3 more pieces the same. Sew each pair together, leaving cast off edges open for stuffing.
Stuff firmly, and sew open end to underside of shell on either side of the neck.
[Editor's note: Since the feet are shaped, make sure you sew the feet on pointing in the same direction (see photo for guidance). Needless to say, I made this error and had to correct it.

Back feet

Cast on 16 sts, and knit 7 rows.

Next row: Inc in the first st; (k4; inc in the next st.) 3 times. [20 sts].
Knit 2 rows; cast off.

Sew the short sides together to form a cylinder shape.

Make another piece the same.

Pads: Cast on 3 sts.
Next row: Knit.
Next row: Inc in the next 2 sts, k1.
Next row: Knit.
Next row: Inc in the next st, k2, inc in the next st, k1. [7 sts].
Knit 3 rows.

Dec 1 st at each end of the next and following alternate row.
Cast off 3 sts.

Make another pad piece in the same way. Sew pads to cast off ends of back feet. Stuff firmly; sew open ends to back on underside of shell about 1 inch apart.
[Editor's note: I misread this - or was not careful enough - and sewed the pads to the smaller cast-on edge - so take note here. I did not correct this error and it looks OK - but toys are more flexible like that....]

Mark claws with 4 black straight stitches on each foot.

Tail

Cast on 17 sts.
Knit 2 rows.
Next row: K2;k2tog, k2tog; k5; k2tog, k2tog; k2. [13 sts]
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: K1;k2tog, k2tog; k3; k2tog, k2tog; k1. [11 sts]
Knit 3 rows.
Next row: K2tog, k2tog; k1; k2tog, k2tog.[5 sts]
Knit 2 rows.
Next row: K2tog, k2tog; k1.
Draw thread through 3 sts and pull up.

Sew together along edges to make a cone shape; flatten slightly into a traingle, along line of increases; stuff lightly and sew the wider, open end to the shell at the back, (in line with the head), and so that the seam is underneath.

Edging around shell

Cast on 7 sts.

* Knit 2 rows.
Next row: K5, turn, knit back.
Next row: K5, turn, knit back.
Next row: K2 tog, k5.
Next row: Knit to the last st, inc in last st.
Repeat from * 28 times more.
Cast off.

[Editor's note: Again I altered the pattern here omitting one of the 5 st short rows, making the shell edge less frilly - this is what I did:
* Knit 2 rows.
Next row: K5, turn, knit back.
Next row: K2 tog, k5.
Next row: Knit to the last st, inc in last st.
Repeat from * about 32 times more, or to fit round shell..]

Sew straight edge around the seam of the shell, finishing on either side of the head. Work a line of light brown chain stitch over the join, then a second line in dark brown 2 sts away.

Using an oddment of bright coloured wool, cut into 3 strands and tie round neck. [Editor's note: ...or use a ribbon...]

Materials

Original pattern calls for 2oz of DK in French Mustard.
Small quantities of light and dark brown wools for markings on the back; scraps of black and white.

One pair of number 11 needles.

Toy stuffing.

Tension

Not given - but DK wool usually knits to approximately 22st to 4 inches (10cm) on No. 8 (4mm) needles over st. st.

Size matters

Tortoise measures 8 inches in length and 6 inches across width of shell.

A word on the wool.

I had some difficulty in finding what I thought a satisfactory colour. Eventually I bought some 4ply from eBay and used it knitted double. I use 4ply oddments for the embroidery.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

© Christina Coutts 2007

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